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  1. #41
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    I like all the pics of your car, the body is still fresh and clean... Mine shows evidence of having cartwheeled a couple dozen times =) As always, i notice if this thing flips, it cartwheels atleast 20 feet every time, probably because of the effort that has to go into flipping it. Surprisingly, the body isnt cracked, just scratched, not to mention the rest of the car... Very durable, no clue how my friends keep obliterating their e-revo and slash... I've only replaced commonly broken parts (servo) and wear/tear items like the drive shaft...

    I wish i could drive on that type of terrain, but being in California there isnt much of that surface around, maybe out by the desert but i'm not goin out that far =P.

    Also, i ran 60 weight for awhile, but nearly instantly dumped it out... The shocks (in my case) were FAR too stiff, and caused the car to bounce around with every bump, rather then absorb it. Go ahead and try it if you want though, tell me how it handles, as i didnt stick around to do much testing of the matter.

    For the body issues, i've went ahead and maxed out the front body mounts, which is a quarter or so inch higher then otherwise, and raised the rear an extra 3 notches (best i can do since i cut the post). I run mine soft and squishy, so the tires still stick nicely inside the rims at its neutral height, but still have both upward and downward travel. I'll test it but I think it'll help the body colliding and dragging...

    For the rear sway, try that setup i posted above using the E-10 bars. Works like a charm, and (though i was skeptic at first) it works VERY well. Traxxas should have already came up with something like this quite honestly, its a very important tuning feature. The only other thing i'd like to tune is the pro/anti squat, then i could get the hole RC to just squat on acceleration, but that'll never happen in this chassis.

    Also... STILL waiting for my Pirelli rally tires... I got a very sexy set of wheels just for them, that match my car. I'll parade it around once they come in, i'll be very excited. I think it'll help alot too with the grip, but i still wish i could get some M compound tires. Not even E-bay has them.

    Have you considered putting in a center diff? Ive found it to be a double edged sword, but you may or may not desire it. Basically, it helps the car drive straight (very straight) while on power, which is awesome since i was having major issues with it sliding side to side, but its downsides are that it causes some major on power under steer, and if you break too hard the car will rotate around. Also, you sacrifice your acceleration and speed, since the power is constantly going to the wheel with the least grip. Helps alot for control but for me its abit much. As i said i'll double, then triple the weight of the oil before giving it up.

    Last thing before i'm off. Would you mind to share some more comments on how you feel various modifications you've done affect the ride, or any ideas you might further have? I'm looking for more inspiration, but until you showed me the way you have yours setup i was tanked for idea's.

  2. #42
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    I'm still running NiMh on the 28 tooth pinion. I'd wager you're running LiPo at least, if not geared up for SPEEEEED. My car was crazy wily at first (turned out to be servo issues and suspension settings) so more speed was only going to end in tragedy. What terrain are you running on? My offroad space is pretty technical and not conducive to flat-out blasts. I'll have to venture out to our local baseball diamond and try that…

    Haven't considered the center diff, honestly doesn't sound like something I need... I've dialed in the suspension set up and gotten the joints (mostly) tight and servo rebuilt/replaced enough that I can go flat out and not worry about stability - at least on-road anyway. The tradeoff is that I do have some of that power-on understeer in tight corners and the drifting on grippy pavement isn't quite as squirrely as before. Still a hoot in the wet or on slick concrete and still very pitch-able on the street. Handles like an actual car now

    My baseline for the Rally wasn't a fresh out-of-the box car. Since I'm an R/C noob and I'd get bummed if I trashed a new toy, I thought I'd get ahead by buying a used Rally and then building it up.

    Turns out my particular used Rally had some issues that didn't show in the photos... the servo was f¢ked internally (position pot in particular) and the hubs were pretty loose, one was missing a pillow-ball cap, not to mention the front bulkheads were stripped and split at the skid-plate mounts. The suspension was set for crazy-drift... lots of toe out, lots of camber (and lots of inner tire wear). It was run hard and/or poorly built. So I've not experienced one of these as Traxxas intended.





    A full rebuild later, where I'm at now is nearly no toe in front (again, the joints aren't 100% tight so there's a slack range of a degree or so) and 2º camber, the rear about 2º toe and 3º camber. I'll have to double-check these tho...

    Most important things I've done are: getting slop out of the suspension, getting the suspension dialed, running the HPI X tires, and messing with the shocks and springs. The front sway experiment had a radical effect on handling, so I know the chassis is pretty responsive to tuning.

    Going to play with airflow and further slop reduction next, then maybe the rear sway…

  3. #43
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    Sounds like the guy who had the rally before you drove like an ******* :P I've wrecked HARD on mine and thus far havnt fractured any parts, except the servo gear (which are flimsy and break anyway). And to your surprise i actually am running NiMh with the stock gears, in series no less. I'm a real control freak, but I'll crank up the speed as I gain more stability out of the ride, and get it where i like. Even if i was geared for speed atm, the center diff (i'll try that 50k oil btw) is taking my top end down hard. You can tell big time, because of the plumes of dust that come from the front wheels when you accelerate, and the rear when you break. Its super noticeable.

    I do like my speed though, but i found the hard way that if you dont balance it with a healthy diet of control, the result is catastrophe... I'm a really big on doing whatever it takes to maximize my RC's to do whatever it is i want them to.

    Before i sent all my other RC's home, i had a Sprint2 Sport Drift, with probably 2 grand dropped into it between the dress up and performance parts of which included a 7200kv mamba max pro, it was my prize jewel and drifted like a king. I also had a TC4 that was equally expensive that was setup for high speed racing. It had a 8.5 turn brushless Novak, and was a total rocket with only a 2s. Never dared to try a 3s, as i never worked out the "torquing" issue it had on acceleration (it always pulled left, but drove straight. i think one of the diffs melted)

    I might buy another, 1/18th scale pure street model, just because i miss the sheer performance of my other 2 works of art, but i dont think i'm willing to invest in small scale. I turn each RC into a project, and this is my rally project. When i'm done, regardless of how much i spend on it, it will be pro at what it does, and its getting pretty good. I like seeing other people who are willing to take something from just fun, to pure awesome Kinda like a guy i know who put a helicopter engine into his RC, and used a 2 stage main gear, and put in a disk brake since the diffs were all 1 ways, it sounded like a gas car and even though it wasnt that fast, it was pretty awesome.

    Anyway yeah, keep up the cool work. What exactly all have you done to remove the slop? Just curious. I dont think the rally is that bad, but it does have some. Also, are you getting issues with rocks in your turnbuckle? (the T shaped part under the skid plate)

  4. #44
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    I've been hunting slop partially due to the issues which, i think, came out of the servo's position pot being screwed up... Driving straight would be fine for a few dozen yards, then the car would wander off in one direction. Trimming the controller would straighten it out, but then a minute later it'd have to get trimmed the other way. When I was steering more with trim than with the steering wheel it was time to go all in.



    Put Avid bearings on the steering linkage, aluminum steering post, RPM hubs, new servo output gear, new toe links, steel hollow balls all screwed into new bulkheads... that all helped, but didn't solve the fact that the position pot was out of whack. From the look of the original output gear, the arm screw was overtightened (or a too-long screw was put in), which shoved the position shaft back into the servo body so that it didn't engage in the notch of the output gear properly anymore. Good stuff... Flat out now on the same road (even in our 40mph winds) it's fully hands-off stable. Awesomesauce.

    Further slop tuning: going to try some super-thin mylar 'washers' between the hex hubs and the outboard wheel bearing. Found em at the Orchard hardware store... They're very slick, and thin enough that they ought to just take up the slack that the wheels have relative to the hubs. Have to try some things to snug up the toe links, after that I'll have a solid foundation to start to play with tuning.
    Last edited by prototyp; 02-16-2011 at 02:39 AM.

  5. #45
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    Re-checked my suspension settings.

    In low-slung tarmac mode (short springs):

    Front -
    0.5º toe in (ish, need to tighten up toe links)
    3º camber

    Rear -
    2º toe in (too much?)
    4º camber

    Get a bit of nice lift-off oversteer so it's flickable in turns. Has some power-on understeer to dial out tho.

  6. #46
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    ALRIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Now that traxxas guys fixed my account, i can post again. Not a TERRIBLE lot to report, except that i took out the center diff for awhile (actually thought i wrecked it) but then put it back in, after i did the messiest rebuild i've ever done... I went for the gold and put some 100k weight oil into the center diff =)

    The results? Well, at first i was afraid that i might have over done it... But after having tested it, i like it... alot. Its got the power now, with out the "whipping" effect it did before. Dont know what was in it, but whatever it was poured out like water, just dabbed up the rest with a napkin. The stuff i put back in was just god awful mess, thick, sticky (yet slippery?). I put too much in (treated it like a shock, filled it up to the top with a lil extra... lol whoops ) I couldnt hold onto my tool and it took like 5 minutes to get the diff back together, trying to hold onto it. Still got it on though.

    I like it, it seems to be a good weight for the diff. I'll be putting 50k in the back diff, and 30k in the front diff. I wana tighten those guys up, see if i can get some more steering out of it. I dropped the front down by giving it maximum droop, which helped, but didnt fix what i was going for...

    I need some help here... Right now, as the Rally stands, if it hits the lip of ANYthing at all, it does a front flip. Nothing i've done fixes this. I've tightened up the rear spring, loosened it, dropped in my long one thinking the travel maxed out... did the same steps there. Messed with the front too (found giving it max droop helped just a tad)

    The issue is that it doesnt have to be going more then 5-10 mph to completely wipe out, which i consider a problem...

    Right now, all further modifications are on hold until i can get new tires for it. Right now, the tires i have (the slash tires) are wrecked. Theyre falling off the rims, and are suffering from major ballooning, which right now i'm blaming as the cause of all my handling issues, including the new rash of flipping (the rally is very sensitive to ride height modifications).

    For now, and until my tires come in (if they ever do) i'll just be playing with my drift tires.


    Oh uh... also i'm kinda cheating. I just bought myself a Tamiya DF03-RA and having my bro ship me my 1/10th scale electronics and other stuff... Depending on how well THAT works out, i'll probably end up leaving the Rally. Its small scale and inherent issues are a very large impedance to its rally capacity. We'll see though, its still a badass little machine, and its not complete yet until i'm convinced its at its peak.

  7. #47
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    Well, since theres no longer the ability to edit the last post... i forgot to mention...

    I fixed the body scraping issue by cutting the front edge of the body off of the front half... Its only about a 1cm difference but its enough to keep the body off the pavement. Doesnt look bad either, cant even really tell... I'll post a pic some time when i get some new wheels, my current ones are too thrashed to be photoworthy...

  8. #48
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    Toe Floss

    Went after the toe-link ball joints with an unlikely filler: Glide dental floss. Most floss is thick and ropey, but this stuff is a super-thin, flat ribbon of Teflon ePTFE. (minty, too)

    A couple loops around the link before snapping in the ball and there is ZERO slop, but it's not so snug as to interfere with any pivot or movement. Excellent.

    Have to wait till tomorrow to check out the results, but what was once an easy degree or so of toe slop at each wheel is now nearly zero.




    Last edited by prototyp; 02-28-2011 at 01:22 AM.

  9. #49
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    Alright, so... I've discovered that me and my little Rally here have a very give and take relationship... Being that i give it many hours of hard work and dedication, and it gives me a head ache...

    So after having eviscerated the front end, took apart the front diff, put 30k in, put it back together, found that it was locked (for some reason), took it apart again, found nothing wrong, put it back together, found it was still locked, took it apart, again noticed nothing out of place, took everything out, put more diff oil back in, re-assembled it, works fine, then putting the front back together.

    Before i completely re-assembled it though, i decided to take a swing at fixing a front sway for it... This took... an exceedingly great amount of effort. You see, i dont have a dremel, nor can i really keep one here. So all the carving and body modifications were done by hand, with an x-acto...

    The plan was to use the 2 screws that are right under the shocks, to hold in the sway...

    So after butchering my body for probably 2 hours, i realized my initial plan, shove the sway under the screws and crank it down, was a flop. Then, right before i tossed the idea, it dawned on me. I snatched up my other "holder" that came with the sway bar, and shaved it up alittle to be more dynamic. Then after probably another hour and 30 minutes of finger blistering shaving and hand drilling, i got something that worked. Unfortunatly, the front end looks like a butchered mess, but it fits AND WORKS!!!

    i also probably spent upwards of an hour, mangling the bar to get it to fit properly. Its still a bit off, but i said screw it, since it was already starting to get gnarled up. It fit, so i was happy. The lighter weight bars were far easier to work with.

    Then, after testing the new diff + front sway, i decided that i liked how it felt, even though i'm still drift spec right now. TBH i dont like how it drifts right now, but thats 90% the differentials fault. Theres a reason i dont like gear diffs, theyre a pain in the *** to tune.

    These dont have an aftermarket ball differential do they? That would be really nice. Also, a front 1 way would rule, as i would just spool up the rear and bam, badass drift setup.

    Anyways, as i was finishing up, i slammed into a curb and snapped part of the diff case that holds the front to the chassis... Boy wasnt that just awesome. So i've spent the past hours rebuilding that... I didnt even bother getting a new one, i just glazed the pieces with some tire glue (as my super glue is just a solid block of rubbery stuff... guess it goes bad after time), stuck it all back together, waited about an hour for it to dry, and slapped it back on... Good as refurbished! ...

    Anyways, i feel its a very decent setup to put some grip wheels on. I cant wait until i get the chance to, but that'll have to wait. Check it out:







    If any one wants a close up of the mess that is the mount for the sway bars with out the shocks in the way, just ask. ATM i just cba...


    Anyways... Real progress is on hold until i get some new tires... I just re-ordered a set of pirellis from... somewhere... RC Boca i think... Had the tires (as the D compound, not S, which will be nice) and offered priority shipping for a reasonable price. With any luck i'll have them next week.

    But as you can see, i've had a long, frustrating day tryin to get my RC to emit basic functions, but at the same time its why i love this hobby so much. So i guess that makes it a Love and Hate too?

    EDIT:::

    Oh yeah... I'm also getting some major slop in the ball cups for the hubs. I'm guessing that means its time to switch over to some RPM ones? The slop is over a degree of rotation on camber and toe, so i think its making the RC handle sloppy.

    edit edit:

    The front also has an alarming 5+ degree of slop... How to tighten that up? Prototyp i know you've done some work on that, share some advice?
    Last edited by ChaosShadow00x; 02-28-2011 at 01:29 AM.

  10. #50
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    See the post above yours here... somehow posted simultaneously and maybe you missed:

    Glide floss (teflon!) threaded between the steel ball joints and the various links = Toe Floss™... The steering has many moving and pivoting bits, each with a little wiggle it adds up to quite a lot of slop. My Avid steering bearings didn't fit snugly over the GPM steering post, so I put a ribbon of floss there too... Still have to do the balls on the short linkage between the servo and the steering arm.

    I'm going to run this stuff for a week or so and check on how it's holding up.

    For the pillow-ball and cups, go with RPM, full stop. They're adjustable and a much 'slicker' plastic than Traxxas', so you can take up any wear, of which there is less due to the properties of the plastic. They're tough too... launched my body-less Rally into a good 20 foot endover cartwheel off a road reflector without any issues (had to massage my HPI wheel back to round tho).

    I've also whittled a little material out of the pin grooves in the hex hubs so they fit more snugly against the wheel bearings.

    Check out my post above, the floss thing took up a significant amount of wiggle. My total suspension slop is under half a degree now.

    Ps. your handling might be improved if you removed the Exacto knife from your front bumper
    Last edited by prototyp; 02-28-2011 at 01:08 PM.

  11. #51
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    Toe Floss™ ftw.

    Ran a pack out in the street this eve to check out my flossed toes. I live on a corner so can get WOT runs 50+ yards in three directions with high-speed sweeps connecting them, and some oversteery drifts in tight figure 8's around the road reflectors for technical hooning.

    Toe Floss™ is easily the most impactful chassis correction I've done outside maybe the grippy tires. I put in fresh toe links, steel hollow balls, bearings on the steering... All helped a little but taking out this last of the slop makes for such a stable, consistent and predictable chassis. Handles like a slot car. What a blast.

    I want more speed now.

    Will have to jack the car up for some off-road work this weekend to see how the Glide holds up in the grit.

  12. #52
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    Awesome man, tell me how the rally works out. I'm pretty much putting this thing down for awhile, soon as my DF03 RA gets here, i'll be focused on that, and soon i'll be grabbing up a high spec drifter (i'm looking at the Tamiya DFR, and if i can freakin find it, the Yokomo DRM)

    I'll be busy though, but when tires come in (god i wish they just would, my last set got lost in the mail), i'll pick this little thing back up. I just hope my Pirelli tires will fit.

  13. #53
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    Btw, TheToyz just stocked a
    1/16 sway kit from Hot Racing

    Looks rocker-actuated...


    Last edited by prototyp; 03-12-2011 at 01:36 AM.

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by prototyp View Post
    Btw, TheToyz just stocked a
    1/16 sway kit from Hot Racing

    Looks rocker-actuated...


    Nice find, I might consider this myself
    Rally SV2/4600 and fully loaded

  15. #55
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    nice find. I may get a set and try a front bar (for more rear traction), but I don't think the rear bar is neccessary.

    Quote Originally Posted by prototyp View Post
    Btw, TheToyz just stocked a
    1/16 sway kit from Hot Racing

    Looks rocker-actuated...



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