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  1. #1
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    Ideas on how to make the Summit more scale looking?

    Wondering if anyone has any ideas in their head on making the Summit to look more scale.

    The Summit looks great, but after looking at some scale 4x4's I've been thinking of doing a project to make mine look more scale looking.

    I understand that the Summit does not have solid axles which is some kind of a trademark of scale 4x4s, so instead I plan on attacking by modifying the body and maybe some new set of wheels.

    I'm planning to get new tires and beadlock wheels for that. Maybe start out by removing the exo-cage from the lexan body and just use the cage as a start point to make my own body (with fenders, ala Mini Moke or WWII Jeep):


    Mini Moke

    I just haven't decided yet on what material to use for the body. If there are any 1/5 or 1/6 scale body that would fit the Summit's wheelbase, that would be cool too.

    Any thoughts?
    Last edited by rmsantaana; 02-07-2011 at 09:57 AM.
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  2. #2
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    might consider the slayer a arm mod. tucks the wheels in the body for a nice look.
    No you cant drive it
    my RC is owner operated only

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue_uscg View Post
    might consider the slayer a arm mod. tucks the wheels in the body for a nice look.
    Either tuck the wheels in the body or widen the body. I like the wide stance that it currently has, but tip noted!
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  4. #4
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    If u look in the last RC car action, they made one i think like u want or close ! maybe it can help u ! ;-)
    Been running longer get you more fun longer !!!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banzee View Post
    If u look in the last RC car action, they made one i think like u want or close ! maybe it can help u ! ;-)
    Yup, saw that one too, which sort of inspired me to do one but on a different route.
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  6. #6
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    2 of the better looking scale summits I have seen in here.

  7. #7
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    Hi everyone! Sorry for the lack of updates, but this project has been slow going as I can only find time for it when I have free time from work. I started out by removing the exo-cage from the Summit's body and roughed something out in Photoshop to show you my idea of how it might look like:



    I drafted it with the stock tires and wheels for now but would be getting a new set with beadlocks once funds become available. I might stick with the stock wide A-arms for now as I am liking the wide stance and went with my Mini Moke idea to the fullest. The body will be wider than the chassis so I can add some inner fenders. I was not able to draw the steering wheel and seats in just yet. Thinking of adding a spare wheel as well.

    It's a rough idea for now and I was wondering how you guys think about the direction that I am going with this.
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  8. #8
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    I love the idea , keep working on it ! It ll be different scale at the same time !
    Been running longer get you more fun longer !!!

  9. #9
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    +1 I realy like the look of that. Look forward to seeing it come together.

  10. #10
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    Love it when someone uses cad! Although I'm am totally useless with autocad or any other system. your tires are backwards
    Don't believe everything you think!

  11. #11
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    I also like it ,Something different is always cool,Even better if you made it instead of bought it.There are no rules.
    Good eye FDG those are backwards does it even matter they are so soft and sticky you could mount them sideways and they would gripProbably last just about as long tooGetting them wet while very fun, does not seem to do the foams any good at all really hard to get them to dry fully and once wet they stretch and never are the same.
    Mountains cant stop me
    they have tried

  12. #12
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    Thanks, guys! Thanks for the heads up on the tires as well; I usually take them off after running in the snow to clean the truck and was hurrying to set it up for my photo session and did not notice that I mounted them on the wrong sides. Eeep!

    I am planning to do a mock-up of the body using some posterboards to use as a template to see if this wild idea is even possible. Will post pictures as soon as they are done.
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  13. #13
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    Looks like a winner to me, makes me think of an old meets new flat fender willy's, cant wait to see what you come up with in your poster board mock-up!

  14. #14
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    Hi everybody! Thanks for the comments!

    I was finally able to set some time aside today to work on mocking up the body for my Summit. I just used regular bristol board and taped it together. After a good whole day's work, here's what I came up with:



    I initially tried to incorporate the exo-cage with the mock-up, but from the very first cut of bristol board it was clear that I had to throw that idea away as it was too much work and I had a lot of clearance issues.

    Here's the bristol board mock-up on the Summit:



    While mocking the body up, it just took a life of its own. I started out by cutting out the shapes of the front to get that Jeep fascia then worked my way to the rear. I was not able to match it perfectly with my rough draft, but I still tried to make it look like a Jeep by adding the fenders and added the side pod borrowed from the Mini Moke.

    Here's the rear 3/4's view. I am not too happy with how the rear turned out:



    That's the rear body mount post sticking out of the rear bed. I do not dare cut it down.

    Here's the side view of the mock-up:



    I made sure to keep all panels as rectangular and square as possible and avoided any curved shapes so that once I decide to build it using Styrene it would be easy. This is my first scratch build and I don't want to be ambitious yet and have no prior experience working with Styrene, let alone build an RC body from scratch!

    Here's a more close up view of the front 3/4's:



    I decided to make it in such a way that the inner chassis is covered, hence those angled panels underneath the fenders. Those shapes follow the shape of the chassis. I am obsessed at coming up with a body that would also serve double purpose as a body chassis shield and I think I was able to achieve that at the price of those unsightly shapes underneath the fenders. Should be easy to make it disappear by painting it black to block it out.

    I wanted to go ahead and mock up a roll-cage out of bristol board as well but my back aches now from working on the floor as I don't have a work bench for my RC.

    Let me know what you guys think!
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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    great skill with the exacto knife, really looking forward to seeing the final project. Looks very much like those flat fendered jeep willys. You do know that you dont have to cut the rear body post to lower it, it lowers with screws, and you can trim the inner spects of the post to get it to lower even more without cutting it up. I see you left plenty of articulation room within the fenders for the range of the suspnsion. Nice
    MAN, Use Common Sense.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by noir 522 View Post
    great skill with the exacto knife, really looking forward to seeing the final project. Looks very much like those flat fendered jeep willys. You do know that you dont have to cut the rear body post to lower it, it lowers with screws, and you can trim the inner spects of the post to get it to lower even more without cutting it up. I see you left plenty of articulation room within the fenders for the range of the suspnsion. Nice
    Thanks for the tip about the rear body post; I didn't know that
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  17. #17
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    really starting a very nice build---i will stay tuned as i am jeep person---ive never made a body---im a noob still but if thats your first time---that is excellent work---cant wait to see finished product---hope you do use the stock cage in build or come up with a better one---
    ???Why so serious???
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burned Up View Post
    really starting a very nice build---i will stay tuned as i am jeep person---ive never made a body---im a noob still but if thats your first time---that is excellent work---cant wait to see finished product---hope you do use the stock cage in build or come up with a better one---
    Thanks! Actually, here's an update with the stock cage.

    I was working on my first mock-up this morning to deal with some fitting issues. Out of a whim, I placed the Summit's exo-cage on top of the first mock-up and was pleasantly surprised that by dumb luck, it actually fit! I made another mock-up, modifying the front a bit so it could fit the exo-cage and removed the side pod altogether:





    I liked this version as it uses the existing exo-cage. However, it still looked just like another Summit to me, so I am a bit torn as what version I should go with.

    I probably should just do both

    Let me know what you guys think!
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  19. #19
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    to me it looks like a new meets old----and i think last pics are very nice-----and dont look like just another summit at all---i think its very wicked with the direction your going--exo makes it look like its ready to take on anything attitude---
    ???Why so serious???
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burned Up View Post
    to me it looks like a new meets old----and i think last pics are very nice-----and dont look like just another summit at all---i think its very wicked with the direction your going--exo makes it look like its ready to take on anything attitude---
    Thanks! I might do this one too.

    Just a small update before the day ends; I went back to working on my first bristol board mock-up:



    I was getting some rubbing issues with the fenders and tires so I trimmed the fenders a bit. I also thinned the side pods down:




    Drove the Summit with the bristol board mocked-up body for a short bit to see how it would look and drive. So far, I think I cleared most of the tire-rubbing issues.

    Next would be mocking up the roll cage. I think I will just use black bristol board for now as I am getting the knack of using it.

    Feedbacks and comments appreciated!
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  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    if you really want the fenders like your original design then Kershaw Designs sell extensions for the axles. They will push the wheels out 2" wider, giving a wider stance and more space for the fenders - I think they run like $20 bucks
    MAN, Use Common Sense.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by noir 522 View Post
    if you really want the fenders like your original design then Kershaw Designs sell extensions for the axles. They will push the wheels out 2" wider, giving a wider stance and more space for the fenders - I think they run like $20 bucks
    Thanks for the tip, noir 522 but I think I will stick with the width of the stock axles for now. I will be changing the wheels to maybe some Proline Trenchers and those I think are thinner than the stock Canyons which would probably give me more room to play with the width of the fenders later on.
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  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    That's some skill right there, looks great so far.

    Not sure if someone's mentioned it already, but you can always use some more front body posts on the rear of the truck to avoid having the long posts sticking up through a hole, will make mounting it easier..
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness View Post
    That's some skill right there, looks great so far.

    Not sure if someone's mentioned it already, but you can always use some more front body posts on the rear of the truck to avoid having the long posts sticking up through a hole, will make mounting it easier..
    Thanks! Yeah, I know about that rear body post. I am holding off on trimming it for now but once I start to build the body, I definitely would. Thanks for the tips too!

    Another update on my first mock-up body. I was planning on making a mock-up of the roll cage using black bristol board but balked at the idea when I found how difficult that would be! Instead, I found some bendable straws in our pantry so I used that to make a template for my roll cage:



    Apologies to those who know the science of making roll cages for my feeble attempt at making one! I don't know if mine is designed correctly, but I tried to make it in such a way that it also wrapped around the body just like the exo-cage of the Summit:



    I think that's that for my bristol board mock-up! I think the only thing left now is to actually build the body using this as a template.

    Before I go to my LHS to purchase my materials, I sure could use some tips and suggestions on how to properly build this. This will be my first attempt at scratch building something out of Styrene and I could use some help with choosing what thickness of Styrene sheet I should get and what bonding or gluing material to use.
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  25. #25
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    looks even better---great work
    ???Why so serious???
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  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Hmm, I know alot of model makers love styrene for their scale models in various thickness's- I'd probably say 1/8" / 3mm might be a good option for a fairly strong option without being too heavy, 1/4" for the fenders perhaps, though my model kits tend to come in cardboard boxes with 'Airfix' on the front...

    I'd guess there is a special glue for use on styrene, though it might be worth googling or asking the store owner for tips on that to avoid any miss-haps.
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness View Post
    Hmm, I know alot of model makers love styrene for their scale models in various thickness's- I'd probably say 1/8" / 3mm might be a good option for a fairly strong option without being too heavy, 1/4" for the fenders perhaps, though my model kits tend to come in cardboard boxes with 'Airfix' on the front...

    I'd guess there is a special glue for use on styrene, though it might be worth googling or asking the store owner for tips on that to avoid any miss-haps.
    Sweet, thanks! I'll note down those thickness and will make sure to ask some recommendations from the store owner as well.
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  28. #28
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    Nice job so far.

    Here is a link to the styrene forum.

    http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=53

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChristoE View Post
    Nice job so far.

    Here is a link to the styrene forum.

    http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=53
    Awesome! Thanks for the link, ChristoE! Loads of information there that would surely help me out!

    Time to dive in and read!
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  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
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    this guy seems to have taken a short cut





    MAN, Use Common Sense.
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  31. #31
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    [QUOTE=noir 522;4717519]this guy seems to have taken a short cut

    Looks awesome!

  32. #32
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    Any ideas how to solve log-in issues? I cannot log in with my rmsantaana user name.

  33. #33
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    Never mind, I got it working again, courtesy of the webmaster

    I thought about getting one of those 1/6 scale jeeps too, but the cost of getting one is quite prohibitive. I'll scratch build mine for now.
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  34. #34
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    i just recieved the nylint 1/6 jeep and scorpion complete for 85 + 80 shipping---well worth it but i think they are bigger than i planned--and may have to change my tires around---not what i wanted to do---new set of rock crusher doubt i use til build 4 or 5--oh well---p,s yours looking better than shortcut jeep
    ???Why so serious???
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burned Up View Post
    i just recieved the nylint 1/6 jeep and scorpion complete for 85 + 80 shipping---well worth it but i think they are bigger than i planned--and may have to change my tires around---not what i wanted to do---new set of rock crusher doubt i use til build 4 or 5--oh well---p,s yours looking better than shortcut jeep
    Thanks, looking forward to seeing how yours will turn out!
    Stock Summit

  36. #36
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    i like yours cause you can think outside of the box with the creativity skill to do it---mine is thinking as of what comes in the boxes--- hahahaha--but im a newb yet---not the skills or resources to do something as you have---my closest hobby shop with actual hobby supplies is 3 hours away---and he just sales he dont know what he has got---real bummer---maybe when i get my r/c shop built i will be able to do alot more---wife wants her kitchen back---cant hold it up much longer ive had it for 3 weeks now--or she will kill me---hahahahaha
    ???Why so serious???
    JOKER TV

  37. #37
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    Hello, my friends! I just wanted to update you on what's been going on with my build project.

    To recap, this is the bristol board mock-up that I made:



    After weeks of research, I think I've read enough information about how to work with Styrene to start building so I finally went ahead to my closest LHS to get the materials that I think I will be needing:



    Here are the styrene sheets that I bought for building the body. I went with the 0.40" (1 mm) and 0.30" (.75 mm) thickness.



    I also bought some .250" x .250" (6.3 mm x 6.3 mm) square styrene strips which I plan to use for the roll cage. I was going to go with tubes, but thought working with tubular rods will be much harder for me when it comes to joining them together:



    Here's is the glue that I am going to use:



    I initially was going to use Tamiya liquid cement for the build but read about how Plastruct Bondene (or Tenax 7R) is much more effective in welding styrene together. However, I was not expecting that my LHS will be having that in stock (they don't have it listed in their online store) so I was delighted to find out that they do!

    There 'ya go! I am very excited to get started with the build. I will post update pix as soon as they are available. Wish me luck!
    Stock Summit

  38. #38
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    Hi, everyone!

    Here’s another update on the build. I made good time this morning and was able to put together the front, middle and back of the body:



    Mocking up the body in bristol board and using that as a template helped speed things up for me; all I had to do was take the measurements from the mock up and transfer it to the styrene sheet and cut the pieces for the body.

    I did not go loco with gluing the body together; it was just a straight joint, with no reinforcements at all, which made putting them together faster. I don’t know how strong the bonds of the straight joints will be, but I count this as a learning experience as I am just too excited to see the body finished right away:



    The Plastruct Bondene works in such a way that you need to hold the pieces together and then apply the solvent over the seam. Capillary action then spreads the solvent between the joints. I then press and hold the pieces together for 10-15 seconds. The solvent works really fast; it evaporates quickly while melting the styene to form a nice bond.

    Working with different sections allowed me to move from joint to joint, giving the bond ample time to cure.

    Plastruct Bondene smells horrible, by the way. I made sure I was wearing a mask so that I will not sniff or inhale the vapors, which can be harmful. I also made sure I had all my windows open so there is good ventilation in my work area.

    Will post more updates as they come. Thanks for following along!
    Stock Summit

  39. #39
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    looking good as usual---cant wait to see this finished--may have to order some materials online----and just to give it a try---
    ???Why so serious???
    JOKER TV

  40. #40
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    looks sweet! be sure to keep us updated! btw...awesome pics what type of camera do you use?
    Your nitro is fat...It ate my Brushless Dust!!!!

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