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  1. #1
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    Need help - trouble shooting

    Hey all. Been an avid "leech" and trolling around on the site and decided to join up. As my signature says ive got the Slash ultimate edition 4wd. Im having some issues and need some help. Before you flame for being a newb, I did however use the search button. Im 28, not 8 LoL Here is the issue

    I just recently installed my new 5000 mAh 3S LiPo battery on my slash, which is now also running the Stampede tires all around as well.
    My truck is not running right. I got one good run of it, and think Ive got it narrowed down to the clutch. If i hold the car air in the air, it runs fine, appears to hit full speed. However on pavement it fails. It makes a "spinning" sound. Ive tinkered with the slipper adjustment, even as far as running the nut all the way in. Any ideas? Both the drive gear and the spur are new so I know its not that. Any help would be awesome. Thanks in advance! The truck itself easily has logged 12 hours of driving with my stock NiCd battery

    edit
    just noticed the forum is messing up and saying my signature is to long, when i know its not so ill type it here
    2010 Slash VXL Brushless - Ultimate Series "Mike Jenkins"
    RC Lighthouse Lights, 5000 mAh 3s LiPo, Stampede Tires
    Last edited by houndawg; 04-11-2011 at 03:57 AM.

  2. #2
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    Could be a broken input shaft. Open up that tranny.
    Bullet proof Spart! 4082,180a,m645 niccccee

  3. #3
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    Did you gear down when you put the stampede tire's on? If not you should at least 2 teeth. Sound's like you may have broken the magnet's off the shaft, that will let it spin up while holding it, but on the ground the motor will not put the power down. Take the motor out of the truck and see if there is any play in the shaft. Forward, backward's or side to side. It should be covered under the warranty.
    *Proud Husband of United state's Air Force wife.*

  4. #4
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    Check to make sure your Grub Screw on the Pinion gear has not backed out. It could just be that your pinion is spinning on the motor shaft. Happens quite often if its not tight and thread locked with blue Loctite.
    Always in Trouble for trying to help out.

  5. #5
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    (repeat post sorry moderators)
    Last edited by houndawg; 04-12-2011 at 01:53 AM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by I EAT DIRT View Post
    Did you gear down when you put the stampede tire's on? If not you should at least 2 teeth. Sound's like you may have broken the magnet's off the shaft, that will let it spin up while holding it, but on the ground the motor will not put the power down. Take the motor out of the truck and see if there is any play in the shaft. Forward, backward's or side to side. It should be covered under the warranty.
    there is no play in the shaft at all
    what gear should i switch to. im running a stock 13/54 tooth combo now.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtnel View Post
    Troubleshoot it from the motor out. If you get to the differentials and haven't found the problem then the diffs would be a last resort check. Check the bearing that goes into the body and check the clutch again. I've seen people fry clutches on The first run after replacing them. The pinion screw is also a high probability. To the other user that posted to check the transmission, I would like you to show us where the "tranny" you mentioned is ? This is a slash 4x4 , not a,big bad emaxx.......... to the original poster, let us know what you find.......
    hey thanks bro.
    ive checked all these. the thing that led me to the clutch, it reeked of clutch just like a regular manual transmission car would after the first li po run. and also a new development
    ive got the rear diff / tires off and it "clicks" when I spin the tires.

  8. #8
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    thank you all so much!! this is a great hobby and im really getting into it. i never expected the Li Po to create such a havoc though.

    ive never took the rear diff apart this should be interesting LoL

  9. #9
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    i get the feeling my main problem is the clutch. i pretty much hauled *** when i got the li po. i actually smelled clutch

  10. #10
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    got the truck serviced. still issues. the guy said the bushings had went out, needed ANOTHER pinion and spur. it still will not start out fast or hit top speed. im going to a different shop prob this weekend to get it looked at. im still leaning mostly 75% to a clutch. just want some reassurance. like i had said above. i actually smelled clutch like you would from a vehicle with clutch issues.
    it still makes a "whurring" sound. trying to identify what that is. think of taking a drill, and putting it at the fastest speed possible, then times it by 10.

    are their any performance clutches out there? something that will hold up a bit better?

  11. #11
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    You can get the revo slipper clutch upgrade for your slash 4x4. I have the revo slipper in my truck and it's been flawless. I'm running a Castle MMP/2400 combo on 3s lipos.

    You can adjust the slipper clutch yourself real easy .. I would remove the clear driveshaft cover( two little screws), then I remove the gear cover (just one little screw) so I can spin the spur gear as i hold the nut with the wrench . Your truck came with a little wrench that's flat and says Traxxas on it. Use this wrench on the 8mm nut on the end of the slipper shaft. hold it steady and spin the spur gear with your fingers the amount that would equal about 1/2 turn tighter on the slipper nut. You want to be turning the nut clockwise to tighten it but have to spin the shaft and slipper/spur gear because theres no room to move the wrench once you get it down in the driveshaft slot.
    You should have a little high pitched squeal just as you take off on high traction surfaces. Maybe a second or two then it should stop slipping.

    With 3 cell, high gearing, and stampede tires, you're definitely slipping your slipper clutch and I would try to learn the adjustment routine yourself and save the shop time money for a revo slipper upgrade or other goodies.


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  12. #12
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    houndawg,

    I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the bearing adapter that sits right next to the spur gear. The stock one is plastic and it just melted. I upgraded to the aluminum bearing adapter part 6893x and I have had no more problems.

    Hope this helps!

  13. #13
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    Put new slipper pads in it if you think its the clutch, theyre cheap. You may have worn it flat. Check that motor mount and the plastic bearing adapter, and bearings while your there.
    Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
    2400/2200/4000kv

  14. #14
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    i agree with slash4wd, this has happened to me before. the driveline bearings are prone to failing if exposed to water and/or mud (and not serviced). they seize up and melt the bearing adapter which causes all sorts of other problems with the slipper clutch assembly spinning off axis. i tore up the bearing at the front of the rear diff because of this too.. not to mention the vibrations shimmying the motor which in turn destroyed my velineon. very expensive lesson to keep things lubed and spinning - especially if exposed to water.

    other possibility could be your motor. the magnets on the rotor could be slipping.

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the input guys! Im exploring all options! I just hate it ran good once then messed up. The Li Po makes it a whole different vehicle. I popped a wheelie and took off, and ran it good for right at 15 mins, then thats when it started acting up, and has been acting up.

    The only thing that really startles me and worries me is that "whurring" sound that just sounds like a juiced up drill lol

    madkawi
    it still makes the "squeal" of that "whurring" sound I been talking about. but thanks for the input man! much appreciated! I've adjusted my slipper to far before, but got it back to stock. the whole "turn till tightened then half turn back"

  16. #16
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    well put the new rebuild kit in it. what is the proper clutch break in time?
    also im having a hard time with the proper spring load on the slipper clutch? should the car be able to roll freely on its own? i know before with my first go around it rolled very easily. right now its locked up and wont roll freely. ive almost got the nut just about all the way out, and the clutch is still not letting it roll freely. or is this normal with a new clutch?

  17. #17
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    I dont think there is a break in time. It should roll freely, doesnt matter how tight or loose it is. You may have the gear mesh too tight. To properly set the clutch tightness, its basically trial and error. 1/4 turn loose after you tightenen it up is a good starting point. You should hear the high pitch whirl sound for 2ft from a hard start.
    Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
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  18. #18
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    Kinda off topic but are u just bashing with the car? Or on a track?

  19. #19
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    I dont really bash it persay. I try to take it easy on it. The thing was expensive LoL
    I drive it mainly just for fun. Ive raced a few times though.

    Dr.J
    I'll tinker more with it tomorrow then. Its not rolling freely. I think the shop I took it to messed it up. It didnt run right before I took it, and still isnt running right.

    It kinda upsets me, makes me wanna sell it and start fresh later down the road.


    Im so sorry for being such a newb but this is a whole new world to me. I've never really messed with nothing this advanced and this fun.

  20. #20
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    if its not rolliing freely then no adjustments you are gonna make to the slipper will cure your prob. You figure out what is causing the excessive rolling resistance. Curious what is your afterun maintenance like? do you clean it? Blow it off?WD40 all moving non electronic parts? I found the first time i hit the entire car with WD40 it made the seals in the bearings swell up.....just enough to cause unwanted drag causing my slipper to overheat and stink too. When you took it in for service they prob blasted everything with WD40

  21. #21
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    Last night I was running my 4x4 and it slowed down and was making the clutch slipping sound. I picked it up and the clutch spring was fully depressed, couldn't see any gaps in the spring. So I took it apart this morning and found out the plastic bearing adapter #6893 was melted and the bearing that goes into the spur gear was destroyed. I bought part#6893x over a year ago but had yet to put it on. Here is the slipper assembly with the new adapter on it. That may have been your problem.

  22. #22
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    Sorry for the late replies guys. Got a new position at my job and been busy with school as well.

    El sob
    This was EXACTLY what had happen man. I fixed it two weeks ago, and she runs like a beauty! Im diggin the LiPo for sure now. I raced it at a local track and was doing pretty good, till my rear wheel nut came lost and destroyed my hex hub. Ive got new metal replacement hubs in there now, and had to put the stock tires back on there until I can get a replacement stampede wheel.

    Guys im wanting to run the street tread / Anaconda tires. Im sure this is another newb question, but what wheels should i run that have our Hex hub? I was thinking the Rustler rear wheels would work? Just get 2 sets of rear wheels. I like the width of the stamepede wheel / tire I had on there. It helps me not to flip when I turn fast.

  23. #23
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    jato rear wheels all around will work
    Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
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  24. #24
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    Have you thought of proline streetfighters? They work on beadlocks and glueable proline rims. Awsome street tire

  25. #25
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    Wow, so glad to finally get over the hump! Good to hear its all worked out. Unreal that a $5 part caused so much havoc lol. If you want street tires with a pede like rim, you can go with any traxxas 2.8 wheel or Proline's 2.8 wheels for front electric or nitro rear. Either of the 2 will work on a sl4sh. For rubber, anaconda works and come pre-glued as traxxas jato rear nitro or you can try a softer, more than sticky compound like a Proline's 2.8 tire witch fits on traxxas rims if it says for traxxas 2.8. Proline's also has a rimmed called desperado wheels that have the same mounting bead as traxxas. You have many options for this, see what you like then run it by us before you buy it just to be sure its gonna work with your truck. Oh and, welcome back! You won't be a newb for long now that your running again.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  26. #26
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    Hey thanks for the awesome replies guys!! Im really diggin these

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-5576...#ht_2393wt_866

    Sorry for the long hyper link but I took your advice Dr. J and looked at the Jato rear wheels

    TMaxx and Dreadedend
    Ill look into those, but I like how the Jato wheels im looking at are alot wider than the stock ones. I love how the stampede wheels helped out too. Im getting a replacement wheel prob next week at my local hobby shop. My bday is in 2 weeks so as a gift to myself im leaning toward the wheels in the link I posted.
    I do more street than off road and have even stiffened up my shocks with the spacers for a bit of a better handling.
    My idea
    Stampede tires for off road use, cause they suck on the street. they "balloon" up when I kick her into high gear LoL
    Jato wheels for on road

    my shell is pretty beat up so Im lookin into another one and prob get one with a light bar on it. I typically drive alot after im off of work, and thats usually around 10 or 11 at night LoL

    I cant wait till my son is old enough to get out and enjoy this with me.



    Traxxas Slash 4WD "Greg Adler"
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    Last edited by houndawg; 09-08-2011 at 12:39 AM.

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by houndawg View Post
    Sorry for the late replies guys. Got a new position at my job and been busy with school as well.

    El sob
    This was EXACTLY what had happen man. I fixed it two weeks ago, and she runs like a beauty! Im diggin the LiPo for sure now. I raced it at a local track and was doing pretty good, till my rear wheel nut came lost and destroyed my hex hub. Ive got new metal replacement hubs inRe there now, and had to put the stock tires back on there until I can get a replacement stampede wheel.

    Guys im wanting to run the street tread / Anaconda tires. Im sure this is another newb question, but what wheels should i run that have our Hex hub? I was thinking the Rustler rear wheels would work? Just get 2 sets of rear wheels. I like the width of the stamepede wheel / tire I had on there. It helps me not to flip when I turn fast.
    I am glad you have it fixed! If I helped at all I am glad! I have street tires on my Slash. I have the Proline
    Split Six. You seem to be looking for something wider. I saw an add for Desperado rims 2.8in with Street Fighter tires. You might want to look into those. That way you can tape the tires so they don't balloon. Road Rage are also a good Proline tire.
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  28. #28
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    Tape w gorilla tape. I used duct tape and it just torn and bunched up.
    Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
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  29. #29
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    What you mean? Literally tape the entire tire? Wouldnt that hurt the tread?
    Again, prod a newb statement LoL

  30. #30
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  31. #31
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    heck yeah! thanks man! now im lookin up tips for removing the tire and regluing it back on lol
    thank you youtube for lots of information lol

  32. #32
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    sweet. just watched a video on removing tires
    Im really thinking about the Acetone method. Anyone tried this on the Stampede wheels? Im prob soaking them and putting Anaconda tires on them, instead of going thru a whole new set of 4 tires.

    scratch that, im doing baking. lol i may do it right now while my wifes not home lol
    Last edited by houndawg; 09-10-2011 at 08:36 PM.

  33. #33
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    I wouldnt do the acetone, Ive heard of tires swelling. Ive heard baking's good. I boil mine off, but if you have chrome or black chrome, it will cloud. I stripped mine w/ oven cleaner and clearcoated them to make them black while they were off.
    Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
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  34. #34
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    Acetone works awesome but for stampede tires it would be expensive. you have to submerge the wheels, and the acetone evaporates over a few days, so you'd need a gallon. I use a quart/liter for doing the sct wheels 2 at a time.


    Forgot to add the liter was good for 6 wheels.
    Last edited by Tallguy905; 09-11-2011 at 07:05 AM. Reason: addition

  35. #35
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    Boiling/baking is free and quick though
    Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
    2400/2200/4000kv

  36. #36
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    Prob doin the baking in time. I've gotta get one replacement wheel since I hollowed out one. LoL

    I just put in my high speed 19 tooth gear, im wondering how she will do now.
    Went to try it, truck went 3 feet, stopped, dead battery hahaha

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.J View Post
    I wouldnt do the acetone, Ive heard of tires swelling. Ive heard baking's good. I boil mine off, but if you have chrome or black chrome, it will cloud. I stripped mine w/ oven cleaner and clearcoated them to make them black while they were off.
    I boil mine also. If you get yourself some non acetone nail polish remover, it will clean the cloudy look off the rims very easily. I just wipe them off and its as if they were never boiled.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  38. #38
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    Im going to try the boiling method for the Stampede wheels / tires
    instead of getting a new set of wheel / tires, im gonna save a bit of money and just get a stampede wheel

    also while ive got all four of them off, im going to strap the tires as well

    tried the 19 tooth gear yesterday, WAY to hard to control. im sure if I had street tread it would do better. the stock slash tires are way to skinny and cant handle it very well.

    ill prob get the Jato wheels strictly for street and run the stampede wheels / tires as all purpose

  39. #39
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    Just wanted to give you all an update

    Got a JConcepts SVT Raptor body, painted it metallic black. Its now on the truck
    Got adjustable body mounts, need to order another set here soon, the hobby shop I go to was sold out and only had the one in stock
    Boiled the stampede wheels and tires, took them apart, strapped them, got a new set of wheels, put them back together, now just have to balance them

    Still need to order the RPM front and rear bumper and the body saver mounts
    Also I forgot what website I saw them on, but I saw a set of "quick release" body clips they were just a simple pull tab on a clip, and I forgot to book mark the site, you all know where it would be at?

    while im at this guys, anything else you can think of i should look into? nothing to insanely expensive. got a 4 month old son to look after first LoL
    Last edited by houndawg; 09-23-2011 at 12:02 AM.

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