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  1. #1
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    Lightbulb 1/16 drive shaft thread

    So I wanted to try and get a thread going with all the upgrade options for the 1/16 revo, and possibly the the short-armed 1/16 trucks (slash, fiesta, etc). I wanted to list the brand options with pros and cons, and if they work on the summit (long travel rockers in general). If there's already an "official" thread with good info we can let this one go, but I'd like to have a good thread out there with plenty of search tags so it can be found more easily to help decide "what drive shafts should I get?"

    Here's the list I have so far:

    Stock
    left/right
    center shafts

    Pros:
    stronger than 1/16 summit shafts (summit compatible)
    cheap
    sold in pairs assembled (cheaper than 4)
    individual parts available
    Your LHS has them, chances are on a good weekend of driving paused by a drive shaft failure you don't care what replacement goes in as long as you can get driving in the next half hour.

    Cons:
    Durability isn't pathetic but I'm assuming most of us looking for drive shaft upgrades want more durability.
    Appearance, they're not ugly but there's not much pride in the look of these, I think half the reason I want to upgrade drive shafts is look different than stock to show it's custom and cared for.
    Large diameter is a disadvantage to center shafts when a small rock finds it's way under the center skid plate.


    Traxxas CVD drive shafts
    (no center shafts)

    Pros:
    Much stronger than stock
    Summit compatible
    Mass is centered giving better acceleration, brushless drivers don't need it but it's good to move in the right direction.
    BLING
    replacement parts available
    Your LHS probably has them.
    Available for 1/16 Slash
    Cons:
    These aren't cheap, in terms of internet prices it costs about the same to get 1/10 revo CVD's.
    Assembled CVD's only sold in sets of 4
    Not available for short-armed 1/16's
    Center shafts not available

    I can not rate the overall durability of these since I haven't owned them, but overall I think the Traxxas CVD's are pretty strong. I have read a report of bent CVD's using larger tires and I'm not sure if that's a common issue or not. I'd like to get a better idea of how often you can expect to replace parts.

    GPM center shaft
    Pros:
    cheap upgrade price
    Durable
    beefy look (as often as you look at center shafts)

    Cons:
    Large diameter leaves them still prone to problems with small pebbles jamming up underneath the center skidplate
    Individual parts aren't replaceable
    LHS probably won't have these, if they carry GPM parts you're most likely going to ask them to order these unless they do their research.

    I would like to get a more accurate opinion on the overall build quality, I've read people haven't had many problems with these but I wouldn't say they are indestructible (yet).

    GPM drive shafts (front/rear)
    Pros:
    They are cheap and look nice on shelf queens.

    Cons:
    major axle failures
    If your LHS DOES have these some poor guy probably bought them

    After reading the GPM axles brake so easily I do not recommend them, the part that sucks is you have to explain to people that GPM center shafts are good quality but the main shafts aren't, so to a less experienced/detailed hobbyist who sees them as practically the same thing, it doesn't make much sense


    GH center shafts
    Pros:
    Cheap upgrade
    Available in red,blue and orange
    Beefy looking
    Aluminum is not as heavy as it looks

    Cons:
    Large diameter still doesn't like pebbles
    Non-rebuildable

    Overall durability: ?????

    GH drive shafts (front/rear) (long travel compatible?)
    Pros:
    Oddly enough this is the only GH 1/16 revo product sold in black
    Sold in pairs
    Cheap (but not the cheapest drive shaft upgrade)
    redblueorange
    Cons:
    Weight?
    Acceleration not improved like CVD's
    LHS probably doesn't have them
    Non-rebuildable
    Description says they fit the 1/16 Slash, I doubt that.
    Besides the colors available the overall appearance doesn't look as good as CVD's to me, as a random side note I think it's kind of funny GH sells orange anodized aluminum parts, it's not ugly but it's a very random color I didn't expect to see (black and orange looks sick but not with blue electronics).

    Overall durability: ????? I have yet to hear anything about GH shafts from anybody

    integy center CVD shafts

    Pros:
    Durable
    Cheap upgrade
    Your LHS might actually have these
    It's the only "CVD" center shaft, as well as increased acceleration this also means pebbles under the center skid plate is less likely to cause problems

    Cons:
    Integy CVD's are not mounted securely with the pins provided, you have to use shrink-wrap (or glue, lock-tite, etc) to secure the pin or it will fall out.
    Integy has a bad reputation, making these easily overlooked.

    integy CVD shafts (front/rear) (summit compatible?)

    Pros:
    Cheap upgrade
    LHS might carry these
    Sold in pairs or all 4
    Centered mass improves acceleration
    Bling
    Available for 1/16 Slash

    Cons:
    Same pin problem??? (I think so)
    Reputation fail

    Overall durability: ????? I'd really like to fill in the gaps on these.
    I'd also like to know if Integy CVD's have any parts compatibility with Traxxas CVD's, I'm not sure if anybody has tried this but that would be pretty good decision making info.


    I also didn't mention compatibility with extended wheelbase suspension arms but I'm assuming there aren't any major issues using the extended wheelbase. I'm surprised MIP hasn't come along and built a super-durable 1/16 drive shaft, with the info I have it sounds like Traxxas CVD's are the best for the front/rear, but none are indestructible, the 1/16 revo faces an extra challenge because people go and put on 1/10 2wd 2.2 truck tires and a 540 motor and wonder why something broke. Personally I've only taken out a center drive shaft because my bulkhead and chassis broke so the drive shaft stripped but I plan to eventually use 2.2 buggy tires on Traxxas 1/16 dished rims and with 3s lipo's I'm expecting I will need to prepare for it (spare differential gears will also be in mind).

    Hope this thread helps!
    I like turtles.

  2. #2
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    Minor correction: the Traxxas CVD for 1/16 Slash are the ones for other short-armed 1/16ths: #7051X is in the Ralliestastang parts lists as well as Slash.

    I'm curious how much they weigh...

    Another mention would be the telescoping stock shafts are way less invasive to install because they collapse on themselves. As far as I can tell, to install one of the solid shafts you have to unhinge the suspension arms or obliterate your alignment settings by pulling out the hub carrier.
    Last edited by prototyp; 05-09-2011 at 11:07 PM.
    The prototype project.

  3. #3
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    A couple words on GPM:

    They (the axle shafts) install without unhinging the suspention. The main part of the shaft is the same as the rear center shaft. So I'd you break two axle shafts, you can make one rear center shaft.

    The weak part on the axle shafts, is the area where the pin for the wheel hex goes. Its also a good idea toi put heat shrink over the "slip" joint in order to keep dirt out, and keep that little pin in. The latest ones are said to be stronger, I will find out later today.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by prototyp View Post
    Another mention would be the telescoping stock shafts are way less invasive to install because they collapse on themselves. As far as I can tell, to install one of the solid shafts you have to unhinge the suspension arms or obliterate your alignment settings by pulling out the hub carrier.
    unhinging the a arm is the way to go if you want to keep your hardware settings intact. it's annoying, though - having to remove the front body mount or the front skid plate and pull the hinge pin through (may also have to take off the front metal brace, too)
    Formerly known as "Wiggy Fuzz".

  5. #5
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    To install traxxas cvds you have to take the bulkhead and diff apart to install the cups after that point removing the pins for the lower arm and installing the shaft is easy before putting the bulkhead back together

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by littlefoot View Post
    To install traxxas cvds you have to take the bulkhead and diff apart to install the cups after that point removing the pins for the lower arm and installing the shaft is easy before putting the bulkhead back together
    Integy has a set like that too now if I remember right
    '

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hav24wheel View Post
    A couple words on GPM:
    The latest ones are said to be stronger, I will find out later today.

    Well, Nope, the latest ones are not any better than the first.. I broke a set of 4, and got some of the latest "stronger" ones sent to me as replacements, broke one in 3 min of running, and one is bent.... so STAY AWAY!!!

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the good input!
    I like turtles.

  9. #9
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    So I was twisting apart the drive shafts so I installed the traxxas CVD's. Now the CVD's work great but now my center drive shafts are twisting apart and it is a real pain to fix those. I have ordered some GH center driveshafts. Will that fix the problem? Or should I be loosening the spur gear? Will the strain that is put on the center drive shaft be transferred somewhere else? Transmission?

    Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on this. I just want to be able to do backflips without pulling apart any of the drive shafts. Will different wheels help with this?

    Thanks

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I imagine you ment to type "loosen the slipper" and not the spur.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  11. #11
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    New Integy Steel telescopic centre driveshaft - anyone used these?
    http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...84&p_catid=257

    Seen these on the Integy website.

    I know they don't have a great reputation, but having just twisted my stock centre apart, I thought a steel replacement would be a good idea.

    These are the alu ones:

    http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...63&p_catid=257

    The steel ones look more robust than the aluminium ones, and I don't imagine they weigh a whole lot more.

    Any ideas?

    Cheers
    Pete

  12. #12
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    Yes I meant to say loosen the slipper (the nut and spring holding on the spur gear).

    Thanks

  13. #13
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    integy center CVD shafts chop my car to half, here is the review ! picture dont lie!!, will they pay for my damage ??













  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Very doubtful that they will pay for your damage. Always nasty damage when pins come out shafts. Best candidates for Locktite. Hope you get it fixed soon.
    Nobody is born with experience

  15. #15
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    well i had GH shafts one word crap ! alloy shaft whit a steel pin held in by a rubber o ring
    the pin works loose in the soft alloy making an oval hole in the alloy then the pin rubs on the o ring breaks the o ring and then you got problems like yin1235 had
    and now i got integys having experience on these style of shaft i super glued the grub screw in hard so the pins wont fall out then put shrink wrap around the pin just in case
    then i tried to install them only to find the dog bone ends where not machined well at all 3 out of 4 had to be grinded to get them to fit into the drive cup !
    so alot of work and test fitting and i doubt they will hold up being so poorley machined / made
    slash pe, sct 2400, 4s. yehaaaaa

  16. #16
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    heres an integy front center shaft after 10-20 packs real nice how they didn't harden the steel and it almost wore out in few weeks. Now this is all after I did everything I knew posible to keep the pin in, whitch in this pic you can see I welded it in. it stayed after that

    Heres my GPM that came apart after 10 minutes and destroyed my new diffs and new tranny. Yeah fresh full build, shimmed diffs the works. thanks GPM!
    I dont think I want to live anymore

  17. #17
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    I took a new set of the integy centers to a heat treating plant. the dude that helped me put them in a rockwell tester he said it was a 63 and that was soft. so I gave him a pile of parts and when it was all done he said they are at an 85
    I dont think I want to live anymore

  18. #18
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    Moving this topic to the life again, what about the Type II Driveshafts??? (T3506RED)

    Appears that now have a aluminum cover where the pin stays, so I believe they solve the pin fall out.

    Last edited by alexspires; 09-01-2012 at 12:43 PM.

  19. #19
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    i would stick with traxxas i haven't had one problem with them

  20. #20
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    My friend switched back to stock drive shafts after bending the Traxxas steel shafts and/or loosing too many pins.
    ***You Build It ...I'll Jump It!!!*** OS .18 TZ; Trinity Pipe; HCR Titanium Skid Plates & Bumpers; Futaba S9450 Throttle Servo; Airtronics 94358Z Steering Servo; RPM A-arms & Knuckles; FOC; Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pins,Turnbuckles, Push Rods & Rocker Posts; New Era Roll Bar & Engine Mount; Proline Mashers on Velocity Rims.

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Good to know. Stock is so much better

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Good to know. Stock is so much better
    I've been using stock drive shaft since day one without any problems at all. I picked up an extra set of 4 on ebay real cheap so that I have spares on hand.
    ***You Build It ...I'll Jump It!!!*** OS .18 TZ; Trinity Pipe; HCR Titanium Skid Plates & Bumpers; Futaba S9450 Throttle Servo; Airtronics 94358Z Steering Servo; RPM A-arms & Knuckles; FOC; Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pins,Turnbuckles, Push Rods & Rocker Posts; New Era Roll Bar & Engine Mount; Proline Mashers on Velocity Rims.

  23. #23
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    But the problem is that the stock ones doesn't last so many runs using bigger and larger tire/rims(like road rage II)...So I'm trying to find driveshafts that will not break easy with more "stress" on it or loosing pins breaking other parts...

    So thats why I'm wondering to buy these Type II or another that you guys recommend...

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Don't let him scare you away from the Traxxas cvds. They are the best you will find

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexspires View Post
    But the problem is that the stock ones doesn't last so many runs using bigger and larger tire/rims(like road rage II)...So I'm trying to find driveshafts that will not break easy with more "stress" on it or loosing pins breaking other parts...

    So thats why I'm wondering to buy these Type II or another that you guys recommend...
    Have you been breaking the stock ones? If you get your slipper just right it will still wheelie but will work as it's intended and slip under stress which saves your drive shafts. I'm pretty rough on my MERV on all terrains and have not had an issue with the stock shafts but if was going to buy CVDs it would probably be the Traxxas ones.
    ***You Build It ...I'll Jump It!!!*** OS .18 TZ; Trinity Pipe; HCR Titanium Skid Plates & Bumpers; Futaba S9450 Throttle Servo; Airtronics 94358Z Steering Servo; RPM A-arms & Knuckles; FOC; Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pins,Turnbuckles, Push Rods & Rocker Posts; New Era Roll Bar & Engine Mount; Proline Mashers on Velocity Rims.

  26. #26
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    airmax how do you have you clutch set?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    airmax how do you have you clutch set?
    I'm not sure where it is now, I just start it out a bit loose, so it won't wheelie from a stand still or rolling, and then tighten it a little at a time until it starts picking the front end up. You should still hear it slip when taking off, I hear mine slipping quite a bit when I'm driving but that what it's there for, taking stress away from the diffs and drive shafts. If I want to do the standing or rolling backflips I tighten it up a bit more but I usually don't run it quite that tight.

    I use long needle nose pliers to hold the slipper nut and turn the shaft with a 1.5mm hex wrench in the end of the shaft.
    Last edited by airmaxx23; 09-01-2012 at 08:37 PM.
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  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    i have a pair of needle nose vise grips ground down on both sides to get into tight spaces
    how often do you replace your clutch
    i have been running big canyon tires had to tighten up the clutch a bit

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    i have a pair of needle nose vise grips ground down on both sides to get into tight spaces
    how often do you replace your clutch
    i have been running big canyon tires had to tighten up the clutch a bit
    I'm still using the original one, it doesn't slip constantly but it slips a little quite often. It makes it easier to punch the throttle and not have it just flip over backwards.
    ***You Build It ...I'll Jump It!!!*** OS .18 TZ; Trinity Pipe; HCR Titanium Skid Plates & Bumpers; Futaba S9450 Throttle Servo; Airtronics 94358Z Steering Servo; RPM A-arms & Knuckles; FOC; Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pins,Turnbuckles, Push Rods & Rocker Posts; New Era Roll Bar & Engine Mount; Proline Mashers on Velocity Rims.

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    i just checked my clutch and it was backed off about 1/3 of a turn .going back to my dirt hawgs think i will go about 1/2 turn out and see how it goes

  31. #31
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    Just loosen it little by little until it doesn't wheelie then tighten it back up a little until the front end picks up.
    ***You Build It ...I'll Jump It!!!*** OS .18 TZ; Trinity Pipe; HCR Titanium Skid Plates & Bumpers; Futaba S9450 Throttle Servo; Airtronics 94358Z Steering Servo; RPM A-arms & Knuckles; FOC; Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pins,Turnbuckles, Push Rods & Rocker Posts; New Era Roll Bar & Engine Mount; Proline Mashers on Velocity Rims.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by airmaxx23 View Post
    Have you been breaking the stock ones? If you get your slipper just right it will still wheelie but will work as it's intended and slip under stress which saves your drive shafts. I'm pretty rough on my MERV on all terrains and have not had an issue with the stock shafts but if was going to buy CVDs it would probably be the Traxxas ones.
    I didn't broke anything until now using LiPo 2S, but my MERV is all stock...

    Did you use 3S and/or large tires and didn't broke stock driveshafts?
    Last edited by alexspires; 09-02-2012 at 08:47 AM.

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Yup.
    3S and larger tires.
    No broken shafts.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  34. #34
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    That sounds very good!

    So then I'll buy some spare stock ones in case of broken.

    Thanks guys!!!

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Keep in mind that I am easy on the trigger when running 3S.
    I also have a center differential and the punch turned down on my aftermarket ESC.

    All of this plays a factor in axle survivability.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  36. #36
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    Ok Jimmie! Thanks for the info!

  37. #37
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    I run just 3S and I'm rough on my truck but with the slipper setup properly your stock driveshafts should be fine. The other big thing that helps make things last is not being on the throttle when you crash or land a jump, good throttle control really saves on the drivetrain. I run stock tires, Proline 1/10 Buggy Rear Calibers on Traxxas Dish Rims and occasionally use the Canyon tires and rims.
    ***You Build It ...I'll Jump It!!!*** OS .18 TZ; Trinity Pipe; HCR Titanium Skid Plates & Bumpers; Futaba S9450 Throttle Servo; Airtronics 94358Z Steering Servo; RPM A-arms & Knuckles; FOC; Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pins,Turnbuckles, Push Rods & Rocker Posts; New Era Roll Bar & Engine Mount; Proline Mashers on Velocity Rims.

  38. #38
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    what about the 1/16 summit shafts? did anyone ever tried them on the merv? do they fit with out mods? i am also using stock shafts with 3S and didnt brake one of them except the center shafts which i replaced with GPM ones and they are great.
    SUPERMAXX, ERBE, T-MAXX, MERV
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  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    1/16 Summit axles are weaker than stock 1/16th Revo axles.
    The Summit guys and gals are switching over to Revo axles when they break.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    1/16 Summit axles are weaker than stock 1/16th Revo axles.
    The Summit guys and gals are switching over to Revo axles when they break.
    Oh ok....i expected the summit ones would be stronger since the 1/10 summit shafts are stronger than the ERBE ones. I also forgot to mention that i am also running bigger tyres on my merv, the summit ones with 3S and the stock shafts seam to be ok up to now. I only had four runs through them though.

    After seeing the price of the traxxas cvds i decided to stay with stock ones and get some extra for spares but that depends on how long i will manage to keep them from braking while making sure my slipper clutch is set right. if they last long enough and worth it.
    Last edited by uninterrc; 02-17-2013 at 11:00 PM.
    SUPERMAXX, ERBE, T-MAXX, MERV
    SAVAGE &TROPHY FLUX

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