Results 1 to 35 of 35
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Molokai, Hawaii
    Posts
    278

    Castle/sidewinder

    The 3800 castle/sidewinder was working great BUT!
    It now takes a LOT of clicks on the transmitter to get it going. As long I keep it moving it's OK but when I stop I have to click the trigger a bunch of times {or give it a shove] to get it going again. Reprogrammed it to no avail.
    Castle technician said Castles are meant to use Lipos and don't work good on NiMH's. NEVER saw anything in the directions saying that and I'm ready to ask for my money back if that's the case.
    I've had to call their techs multiple times over the last week to reprogram it as it also goes back in the Lipo mode now and then.
    Technicians say Castle come in the Lipo mode and you have to reprogram them for NiMH's. Never saw anything about that in the manual either. Maybe I missed that.
    Bottomline is the Castle/Sidewinder has been a pain in the butte and makes me wish I'd paid extra and gone with the more expensive Velineon system when I upgrated from brushed.
    Get what you pay for.
    Old fart playing like a kid AGAIN!!

  2. #2
    RC Champion NYbandit33's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    1,153
    I guess if thats all the tech says than theres nothing else to your problem... if I were you I would just bite the bullet and buy a LiPo because a lithium battery on that setup will rippppp

    If you dont want to go that route though either ask for a refund or sell it on eBay and buy a VXL-3s setup, they work awesome on both NiMh batteries and lithiums
    Monster Baja Sla2h VXL
    Rustler VXL

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dadx2mj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    21,511
    What kind of nimh are you using?

    The 3800 is an amp hungry beast it really does not surprise me you are having issues trying to feed it on nimh especially if the nimh are anything but top quality nimh packs in good shape. I think if you tried a decent lipo in it your opinion would change when you see how much power it has when fed properly.
    BlindMan Racing
    Rusty - MERV - Pede 4x4-Alias
    SPC Lipo Power

  4. #4
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Milford, MI
    Posts
    106
    I'd never run brushless on anything but LiPos. Even my Slash 4x4 with the stock battery was a big improvement when I put the LiPos in.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Molokai, Hawaii
    Posts
    278
    Yeah I'm working on going Lipo.
    Thanks you guys. Do you really use a Lipo sack or metal box when charging lipos?
    Hows this for a start?
    http://www.neumotors.com/store/page5/page5.html
    The NeuEnergy X6
    Do I have to buy the balance adapter also?
    Last edited by Dakine2448; 06-16-2011 at 12:47 AM.
    Old fart playing like a kid AGAIN!!

  6. #6
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Milford, MI
    Posts
    106
    I use an Onyx 230 (have two of them) and use an AstroFlight Blinky for a balancer.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMRZ9&P=ML

    They also make an adapter for the narrower balance plugs (some LiPos use a different type of balance plug, the pins are closer together).

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPUP3&P=M

    Never had any issues with this setup. I think the Onyx 235 has a built in balancer, but I haven't seen or used one, so can't say for sure.

  7. #7
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Milford, MI
    Posts
    106
    Oops, double posted.
    Last edited by zjguy721; 06-16-2011 at 01:32 AM.

  8. #8
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Columbia, SC
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by Dakine2448 View Post
    Yeah I'm working on going Lipo.
    Thanks you guys. Do you really use a Lipo sack or metal box when charging lipos?
    Hows this for a start?
    http://www.neumotors.com/store/page5/page5.html
    The NeuEnergy X6
    Do I have to buy the balance adapter also?
    Looks like a pretty good charger. Charges up to 10A and 250 watts. Yep, you really need a balancer. Have fun
    Ever Evolving Rustler

  9. #9
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Columbia, SC
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    What kind of nimh are you using?

    The 3800 is an amp hungry beast it really does not surprise me you are having issues trying to feed it on nimh especially if the nimh are anything but top quality nimh packs in good shape. I think if you tried a decent lipo in it your opinion would change when you see how much power it has when fed properly.
    Dad, when you say the 3800 is amp hungry, what rating would you recommend in a LiPo? (mAh and C rating)
    Ever Evolving Rustler

  10. #10
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    6
    I'd never run brushless on anything but LiPos.

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    672
    Sounds like what you are describing it typical of niMH batteries on a brushless system. Same thing happens on my 5600 if I put in a crappy venom pack into the system. I bought a 2s Lipo and its a whole different game.

    As for what type of Lipo, look at the specs of the ESC and that will tell you what you can use. I have the sidewinder and it says 2s lipo max with the 5600 motor, so thats what I got. Castle is good, they should have a chart for you to use to decide
    David "Hijak" Holden
    http://www.newedenradio.com

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dadx2mj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    21,511
    Quote Originally Posted by shagnat View Post
    Dad, when you say the 3800 is amp hungry, what rating would you recommend in a LiPo? (mAh and C rating)
    When I got my SCT/3800 I was using SPC 2s 5000mah 20c packs. The packs were old and due for replacing but they still worked pretty good. I noticed the packs were getting a little warmer with the 3800 than they were when I was running a 5700. I replaced the packs with SPC 2s 5200 mah 40c packs and the performance was noticeably better.

    I would say 5000 mah 20c is doable if you use a quality pack with true ratings, I think 5000 mah and 30c or more is a better idea.
    BlindMan Racing
    Rusty - MERV - Pede 4x4-Alias
    SPC Lipo Power

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    11,293
    Quote Originally Posted by shagnat View Post
    Looks like a pretty good charger. Charges up to 10A and 250 watts. Yep, you really need a balancer. Have fun
    Actually its a 5 amp 50watt charger... still not bad for the money... but I were planning to buy some SPC lipos id want higher charge rates. SPC's can be charged at 2C.... why not get a charger than can take advantage of that and charge them in under an hour. Just my feeling.


    Also, to the OP... you DID get what you paid for... you got one of the highest quality, most powerful systems for a killer deal... your problems are coming from the low end batteries your running... not the power system.

    Probably whats happening is the ESC is hitting LVC because its set to lipo mode... you CAN program via the radio... its a pain. But you CAN do it... or you can get the castle link adapter... which is worth the investment IMO.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. asheck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    7,360
    I'm not gonna say you don't have a bad phase on the esc, a good sign of this is the push to get it moving.

    Did it work ok when you first got it?

    Did you notice that if you just barely pulled the throttle, it didn't want to go smooth? ( cogging)

    .
    _
    _
    _ 3 lines are all that's allowed in a sig.

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    606
    Quote Originally Posted by Dakine2448 View Post
    Yeah I'm working on going Lipo.
    Thanks you guys. Do you really use a Lipo sack or metal box when charging lipos?
    Hows this for a start?
    http://www.neumotors.com/store/page5/page5.html
    The NeuEnergy X6
    Do I have to buy the balance adapter also?

    I personally wouldn't go with that charger for the reason it says
    Input power: max.50W for charging
    You can get a Thunder AC680 for cheaper then that with a 80W power for charging which will allow higher charging rates when and if you start getting 11.1v lipos


    Links:
    HobbyPartz AC680
    Last edited by ChadRC; 06-16-2011 at 10:13 AM.
    Rustler CC3800 || Stampede VXL

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Molokai, Hawaii
    Posts
    278
    [QUOTE=asheck;4835789]I'm not gonna say you don't have a bad phase on the esc, a good sign of this is the push to get it moving.

    Did it work ok when you first got it?

    Did you notice that if you just barely pulled the throttle, it didn't want to go smooth? ( cogging)

    YES AND YES. It worked fine. Now most all it does is cog when you pull the trigger.

    Did it work ok when you first got it?

    Did you notice that if you just barely pulled the throttle, it didn't want to go smooth? ( cogging



    YES and YES. Worked fine when I first got it. Now alls it does is cog most of the time and not take off when I pull the trigger.
    Last edited by Dakine2448; 06-16-2011 at 01:59 PM.
    Old fart playing like a kid AGAIN!!

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. asheck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    7,360
    Sounds to me like the damage has been done to the esc. If you have the capability I would check it with another motor/ battery. If not I would send it to Castle to get checked. But I'm going to highly recommend using good lipos with the 3800 system, or some very conservative gearing.
    _
    _
    _ 3 lines are all that's allowed in a sig.

  18. #18
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Columbia, SC
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    Actually its a 5 amp 50watt charger... still not bad for the money... but I were planning to buy some SPC lipos id want higher charge rates is worth the investment IMO.
    Oops..... I looked at one of the higher end units.... which if affordable for the OP, I would definitely go for. Matter of fact, I'm thinking about buying one!!!
    Ever Evolving Rustler

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Molokai, Hawaii
    Posts
    278
    Strange thing is it takes off when you give it a push! It's like the starter winding was screwed up. As long as you keep it moving there's no problem. If I stop it completely is when it jerks a little and takes QUITE a few trigger pulls before it takes off.
    Old fart playing like a kid AGAIN!!

  20. #20
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    2,383
    That sounds like you might to send in the ESC. Might as well do that while your getting your lipo stuffs

    Especially if you already did the ESC reset and it still has issues.

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    756
    I just got a new sidewinder 4600 and it does the same thing on my NiMHs. The batteries I'm trying are 2 packs which were left for a few years without charging, and one is brand new. I read cycling a new battery a few times might help I'm gonna try that. Possibly your batteries degraded over time which is why it just started? Does yours make a lot noise? Like some gears are stripped? Is this normal? BTW I know for fact my gears are not actually stripped since I tried it on 2 trucks and they run fine on the titan

    EDIT: try setting your timing to Lowest (0), if you have the castle link. I just tried this and it helped a lot but didn't eliminate the stuttering completely.
    Last edited by joe831; 06-16-2011 at 08:05 PM.

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. asheck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    7,360
    Strange thing is it takes off when you give it a push!
    Now I'm no tech, so I can't say for sure this is what is happening to your's, and won't even swear it's all right.

    You have 3 wires that go to your motor, each 1 is responsible for pushing or pulling the motor through 1/3 of a revolution, 1/6 on a 4-pole motor. If 1 of the phases of the esc goes out then the motor is only receiving power from the other 2, making the initial startup much harder. Now once moving the momentum can carry the motor through that dead spot without much trouble. By giving it a little push, you are greatly helping it out. By powering through a startup, especially with weaker batteries, can be very hard on the system.
    _
    _
    _ 3 lines are all that's allowed in a sig.

  23. #23
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    BNR in Paulding County,live in Bartow countyGeorgia
    Posts
    1,130
    humm a guy in my shop kinda had same issue his truck would kinda jerk a few times before going, but it would go. most the time its wires are coming loose or a bad connection somewhere or a weak battery. I have never heard not using nimh with brushless. I used nimh packs OLD ones about 6 yrs old 3800mah ones in my SC10 that had a reddy 3600 motor. never any issues with it.
    good luck
    Traxx Pede stock for now with Futaba 3pl Radio

  24. #24
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    19
    Castles tech support tells me that their ESC's require at least a 30C discharge rated Lipo. For low currant draw brushed motor use this may not be true. For raw performance and higher amp draw motors I'd believe it. Has something to do with "ripple AC current" which kills the ESC, says Castles tech.

    I've been running 4000mah 30C rated *******'s with good luck with my Castle 3800 SCT system geared 19/90 with Masher 2K's. I also have some ******* 5000mah 20C packs that I have run, but you definately notice less punch and the ESC runs warmer, so I have tried to aviod running them any more.

  25. #25
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Port Alice, BC, Canada
    Posts
    1,450
    Mine does the same as well, I have messed with castle link, reprogrammed etc... Cogs badly off the beggining and makes lot of noise like you said above, chattering, it's the gear and spur clicking as it's stuttering/fighting to take off. I am using good batteries so that is not the issue. Might have to send this away, not sure how their warranty work is etc... But if I am going to have to pay like $30 or something I'll just live with it considering it doesn't bother me all that much, only really see it when I first turn my truck on and take off. It's done this since day 1. Messing with castle link improved a little but it's still there.

    EDIT: Forgot to mention as well I just got back from attempting to bash lol. I put my truck down turned the on switch on and it just cut out. Tried another battery and it would go on quickly and turn right off. Wiggled the wires underneath the on/off switch and that's what it was. I have no clue when it comes to electronics/re-wiring etc... I will need to fix this though as it's a pain in the you know what. That explains why last bash session I lost all control for like 1 second then everything came back on.
    Last edited by Stephan81; 06-16-2011 at 10:36 PM.
    R4lly GT8 | Backsl4sh | Sl4sh MT | Sl4sh | P4de

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Rotterdam, Netherlands
    Posts
    8,622
    Quote Originally Posted by hozererhead View Post
    Castles tech support tells me that their ESC's require at least a 30C discharge rated Lipo. For low currant draw brushed motor use this may not be true. For raw performance and higher amp draw motors I'd believe it. Has something to do with "ripple AC current" which kills the ESC, says Castles tech.

    I've been running 4000mah 30C rated *******'s with good luck with my Castle 3800 SCT system geared 19/90 with Masher 2K's. I also have some ******* 5000mah 20C packs that I have run, but you definately notice less punch and the ESC runs warmer, so I have tried to aviod running them any more.
    If a Castle rep would say that to me I would have replied with "Cool I will buy a 500mAh 30C battery then". Using only 30C as specification for a battery is completely useless without also saying what capacity it has.
    The 3800kv Castle motor, depending on use, can ask peaks of quite more than 1000 Watt. Using a 2S battery you need at least 135 A.
    Nobody is born with experience

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Molokai, Hawaii
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by Stephan81 View Post
    Mine does the same as well, I have messed with castle link, reprogrammed etc... Cogs badly off the beggining and makes lot of noise like you said above, chattering, it's the gear and spur clicking as it's stuttering/fighting to take off. I am using good batteries so that is not the issue. Might have to send this away, not sure how their warranty work is etc... But if I am going to have to pay like $30 or something I'll just live with it considering it doesn't bother me all that much, only really see it when I first turn my truck on and take off. It's done this since day 1. Messing with castle link improved a little but it's still there.

    EDIT: Forgot to mention as well I just got back from attempting to bash lol. I put my truck down turned the on switch on and it just cut out. Tried another battery and it would go on quickly and turn right off. Wiggled the wires underneath the on/off switch and that's what it was. I have no clue when it comes to electronics/re-wiring etc... I will need to fix this though as it's a pain in the you know what. That explains why last bash session I lost all control for like 1 second then everything came back on.
    My "first" sidewinder went out and I sent it back to Castle. They sent me a new one for free. I paid for the shipping to them and they paid for the shipping back to me. I "may" have to send the new one back if it doesn't work good with my new lipo system.
    One technician claims Castle/ sidewinder combo does NOT work properly with NiMH's even tho I use 5000 Venom's.
    Castle says different in the FAQ's online. They claim NiMH's work fine! All's I know my car is still "clogging". Pain in the butte when I was trying to race today.
    Jack
    Old fart playing like a kid AGAIN!!

  28. #28
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Columbia, SC
    Posts
    1,887
    Amazing how a company can contradict itself............ (tongue planted firmly in cheek)
    Ever Evolving Rustler

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Molokai, Hawaii
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by Dakine2448 View Post
    The 3800 castle/sidewinder was working great BUT!
    It now takes a LOT of clicks on the transmitter to get it going. As long I keep it moving it's OK but when I stop I have to click the trigger a bunch of times {or give it a shove] to get it going again. Reprogrammed it to no avail.
    Castle technician said Castles are meant to use Lipos and don't work good on NiMH's. NEVER saw anything in the directions saying that and I'm ready to ask for my money back if that's the case.
    I've had to call their techs multiple times over the last week to reprogram it as it also goes back in the Lipo mode now and then.
    Technicians say Castle come in the Lipo mode and you have to reprogram them for NiMH's. Never saw anything about that in the manual either. Maybe I missed that.
    Bottomline is the Castle/Sidewinder has been a pain in the butte and makes me wish I'd paid extra and gone with the more expensive Velineon system when I upgrated from brushed.
    Get what you pay for.
    I put a new Sidewinder on today and it now works GREAT with 3000 NiMH's and 5000 NiMH's.
    Castle tech had his head where the sun don't shine!
    My lipos and charger should be here this week. Hope I made the right move. Thunder T6 charger and SPC 4700 batteries!
    I'm pretty content with the way the 5000 NiMH's work tho. Especially yhe Onyx 5K. Venom 5K's aren't quite as good.
    Last edited by Dakine2448; 06-20-2011 at 02:50 AM.
    Old fart playing like a kid AGAIN!!

  30. #30
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Columbia, SC
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by Hijak View Post
    Sounds like what you are describing it typical of niMH batteries on a brushless system. Same thing happens on my 5600 if I put in a crappy venom pack into the system. I bought a 2s Lipo and its a whole different game.

    As for what type of Lipo, look at the specs of the ESC and that will tell you what you can use. I have the sidewinder and it says 2s lipo max with the 5600 motor, so thats what I got. Castle is good, they should have a chart for you to use to decide
    Maybe I'm lucky. My grandson is running a Sidewinder V2 w/4600 4 pole motor on NiMh w/NO issues at all. It screams!!
    Ever Evolving Rustler

  31. #31
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    756
    ^ I just got the same one. Using it in my backyard at slow speeds it pretty noticeable, but when I take it out to large areas its hardly noticeable. It will wheelie onto its back with 7 cell NiMH easily also. Set the timing to lowest (0) with castle link under advanced setting if you haven't.

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Fraser Valley, BC Canada
    Posts
    3,137
    Quote Originally Posted by Dakine2448 View Post
    Strange thing is it takes off when you give it a push! It's like the starter winding was screwed up. As long as you keep it moving there's no problem. If I stop it completely is when it jerks a little and takes QUITE a few trigger pulls before it takes off.
    My velineon system does the same thing on nimh, they just don't supply the power required by the motor and it happens on start up because thats the biggest draw on the motor.

  33. #33
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    20,529
    Quote Originally Posted by Dakine2448 View Post
    I put a new Sidewinder on today and it now works GREAT with 3000 NiMH's and 5000 NiMH's.
    Castle tech had his head where the sun don't shine!
    My lipos and charger should be here this week. Hope I made the right move. Thunder T6 charger and SPC 4700 batteries!
    I'm pretty content with the way the 5000 NiMH's work tho. Especially yhe Onyx 5K. Venom 5K's aren't quite as good.
    I'm done only 3 runs with those same SPC 2S/25C/4700mAH packs, but in my 1:10 E-Revo Brushless Edition. There is no lack of power (for 4S) with these and they seem to have one of the flattest discharge curves (= consistent power) of any batteries I've used. Amazing for $24 + shipping with great CS and a warranty. I look forward to reading about your opinion.

    Edit: you may want to check the voltages reported by the T6 with a quality voltmeter. Some of these chargers have a calibration routine also. Check the vendor or manufacturer websites for this.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 06-20-2011 at 12:29 PM.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Molokai, Hawaii
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by joe831 View Post
    ^ I just got the same one. Using it in my backyard at slow speeds it pretty noticeable, but when I take it out to large areas its hardly noticeable. It will wheelie onto its back with 7 cell NiMH easily also. Set the timing to lowest (0) with castle link under advanced setting if you haven't.
    Thanks! Did that.
    Old fart playing like a kid AGAIN!!

  35. #35
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    20,529
    ...and set the Start Power to "Low"
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •