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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Cool Conversion was fun, Time for an ERBE Build

    A real one this time.
    Decided my winter project this year will be building myself a ERBE from the ground up.

    Parted out my Slayer turned Revo2.5 turned Revo3.3 turned Platinum and kept the majority of the suspension and drive line to go into the new build but from there its all new stuff. I have already ordered the new "X" chassis, an EmaxxBL transmission, new 5334r carriers/balls/bearings set from eBay; skid plate set, and Motor mount parts from the LHS.

    I already had sitting here new bulkheads, E-revo differentials, hinge pins and plates. So once i get the Chassis i can start building. I think on this build i will stay with the stock carriers since it sounds like they have fixed the popping ball issue with the new retainer, I may go with the 5451r CVD kit but i haven't decided yet, at the same time i would probably install the center drive shafts as well.

    My question is to start it off, i went full tekno carrier/hub assemblies on the conversion so i have zero slop. What can i do on the ERBE if i decide to go with the CVD kit to eliminate the slop, given the fact you cant change the stub axle. That right there might be enough to sway me away from the Steel shafts and stay stockers and just pick up the Tekno stub axles and hubs. Is there another fix for that? Other than the brass fitting over the threads fix?
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    The sleeve over the axle mod to eliminate slop is about the only option really, or you could try packing washers/ shims between the outer bearing and the hex adapter too. Given how well the Teknos work, I'd be more inclined to go with them since you're building it from the ground up- just set the slipper well and you shouldn't have to worry about broken driveshafts too much ( cheap fix even then = meh ).
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  3. #3
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    I run Tekno's around with stock drive shafts in the front and traxxas cvds in the rear. Been working like this for moths now between mine and my wifes erevos. The issue was bad front end crashes which would result in bent cvds. After so many times of bending them back the bearings would start to go so leaving the stockers up front fixed that and now they rarely break. My cvds are lasting so long now that I have to replace the drive cups from the wear on them. Only run 4s and 5s on the trucks. Also to help with the slop get the Ofna 17mm adapters. They have a lot less slop and to me work better. Ebay had them for like $15 bucks or so. Good luck on the build cause it's about time. I ended up with a revo 2.5 then to a 3.3 then brushless then lastly erevo. Can't tell you how much money I wasted in each build. Could have bought 2 new erevos and still had money to spare.

    Terry
    X3-RC8T/X2 ERBE/Losi SCTE/SC10 4x4/Baja 5SC/Rusty

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    thats an idea too, i could buy 1 set of CVd's and split them between the 2 trucks. And run the Teknos up front on both.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    One thing I'm pretty sure I'm gonna do is RIT dye the chassis black (or something else...)
    Seeing as how the battery doors are already black do i have to remove them to to the dye job or can i just leave them on and open?
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Dying the doors wont hurt, should help get a uniform shade of black on all the parts if you leave them in the dye for ~24 hours - a lot of guys end up with a dark purple colour when dying grey parts if they don't leave the parts in for long enough.
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Well my conversion is mostly pink so a deep purple wouldn't be that bad haha, then again people might start to question things.

    Just wanted to make sure it wouldn't cause any adverse effects. Waiting for parts so im just doing a bunch of homework on other things while im waiting.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    At worst the metal part of the hinges might get a little rusty after a while due to the salt in the dye- just wash it off well with fresh water afterwards and apply a little wd40 for good measure.
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Cool thanks Neil.

    I decided as well i am going to run the Traxxas CVD kit on the rear of both trucks. Tekno Carriers/hubs out front on stock axles. And Stock Carriers with Ofna hubs out back. Kind of the best of both and a little bit less to buy right out of the gate. 1 set of hubs and 1 set of CVD's.
    The OFNA 81175 are the hubs I should be buying? Just making sure they don't have a different style i wasn't aware of.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ajb1205's Avatar
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    Yah. Those are the right ones. You now have me re-thinking my setup with the CVDs out back with the regular carriers. The toughest part about dying the chassis is finding a large enough pot...but it makes it look ssssooo much better being black. Let me know where you buy the cvds and hubs from if you don't mind (GH or Ebay) as I will probably do the same soon.
    Kraken Baja
    Traxxas X-Maxx

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    I just ordered them from GH via the web. $28 for the hubs. im gonna pay attention to ebay for the CVd's maybe luck out and get a deal otherwise i'll just order them from GH as well as they usually have stock.

    I was hoping to find a large turkey foil pan @ Walmart and use that for the dye job. Do you have to maintain the boil or just get the chassis in boiling water with the dye and just let it sit for 24hrs after cooling?
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ajb1205's Avatar
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    I have always done my dying with the water boiling (also throw in some salt). You won't need to leave it in for a full 24 hours if you keep the water temp up. When I did my E-Revo chassis it took maybe an hour max to get black black.
    BTW...Ofna hubs on ebay are about $25 and CVDs about $60. If I hadn't just bought a brand new set of 4 stock axles I would be all over it.
    Kraken Baja
    Traxxas X-Maxx

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    the chassis doesnt lookse any rigidity does it? i ask becasue i know if you boil a wing it gets very flexible.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    no ^ it won't get hot enought to hurt the plastic of the chassis. If after a couple hrs it is purple leave it in until it is black.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    cool so maintaining a constant boil is the best way to do it but ultimately you end up with the same result if it sits longer in cooling water? i only ask because i know i can find a turkey pan big enough to do the job in but i don't know if i want to trust trying to maintain a boil in it.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Some parts are starting to roll in, got the new carriers. Im going to split up the Teknos i have on my conversion between the 2 trucks and run the new style traxxas carriers out back. EmaxxBL transmission showed up today, chassis should be here any day now as well.
    Still looking for a deal on the CVD kit, if i can save a few bucks via ebay i'll go that route.
    Once the chassis shows and i can get the dye job complete i can get to building the truck.
    I am also still trying to decide if i go with another MMM or explore a different option for power.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Chassis was waiting for me at home tonight.
    Its about an inch short of fitting in the roaster pan i was planning on using to dye it.
    Sucks too, because this pan is nice and deep, would have worked out awesome.



    Headed to wallyworld in the morning to find something to use. I would say i should expect some weird looks when i go in there carrying the chassis, but its wallyworld after all
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Plastic tub: Put in all parts add boil water, enough water to fill the tub & cover parts, add dye. The water doesn't have to boil the hole time. Leave in until parts are dyed. Last time I left my parts in for almost 24 hrs.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    i might go that route. i like the get'er done in an hour though. i have to go to wallyworld for the dye anyways so i'll see what i find.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    I have looked but it is hard to find a metal pan that long. It doesn't look that long till you try to put it in a pan. It would be worth it to just walk around with the chassis & see how many pep stear at you.HAHA
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    if i decide to boil start to finish it comes with me to wallyworld tomorrow. not gonna mess with buying something that looks big enough only to find out its a 1/2" small.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Most guys buy those disposable aluminium foil roasting trays- $1 and more than long/deep enough. I will say though based on other guys experiences that one hour will result in a nice purple tinge to the chassis, it really needs to be left in over night for it to be completely black...
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  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    I found a plastic tub here that the chassis fits in so i think i go for the overnight route. just need to grab the dye now.

    I'm also at the point of thinking about what power plant to run. I will only be running 4s on it (2x2s). I have the MMM in my conversion but i was thinking i might go another route. Just curious if it is down to nothing more than the Tekin and the MMM or are there more 1/8 BL systems to look into? I do not think i'll be looking at or even considering an EZrun or anything like that.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    how much of the dye do you use? the tub i have is 19L and it looks like i will need at least half full to cover the chassis (it doesn't quite fit in flat ) There is no actual usage instructions on the RIT Liquid dye 236 ml bottle. Do i need to just pour the whole bottle in?
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Usually you use the whole bottle or box ( if its the powder type ) when dying clothes in a washing machine, so if you have any other parts you want to dye, throw them into the bowl with the chassis & add enough water to completely cover them.

    As for BL options, tekin & castle are the best ( supported ), then the ez or xe run systems, then you get into the region of no-name/ rebranded things ( speedpassion & Himodel for example ), or the rather pricey european brands like MGM. Castle and tekin have the best aftersales support generally and pricing isn't too bad for what you get- cheaper you go the harder it is to get support and the less features you get too...
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  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    so much as i figured, the Tekin and MMM seem to be the way to go, is there any glaring pros and cons between the 2? Anything that justifies the extra coin for the Tekin? I haven't used Tekin in the past so they are foreign to me. lol.

    Rockers are going in with the chassis, just need to find something to boil enough water at once, and then not injure myself transferring to the boil bucket lol.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    3or4 big pots/pans. I put the plastic tub outside, just incase of a spill. You will never hear the end of it if you make a mess & stain something you shouldn't.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Haha yeah no kidding, my parents asked me to use the barbeque if i boiled and dyed while boiling lol. Something about the stove looking good white. lol. The biggest pot we have here is only good for about an inch and a half of water in the bottom of the pan i found. might continue the hunt for a better pan. Was at walmart this morning and they did not have any foil pans big enough to set the chassis in flat.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    It is not turkey season yet. lol
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    hey its getting close up here. lol. the only thing i did find was a roasting pan similar to the one shown above but i don't really feel like spending $34.95 for a tray to boil/dye a chassis in lol, I'm careless with my money sometimes but that's crazy.

    There is literally nothing in this house that will work without being grossly over-sized. Disappointing really, I was hoping to start assembly tomorrow after work now that i have all the parts needed to build the roller.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    What about a deep bucket?

    Regards Tekin vs Castle...

    The Tekin systems are sensored, so they do have slightly better low speed control/ smoothness ( good for crawling and climbing ), but once you start moving past a few mph there is no difference as such.

    The Castle motors are larger and more powerful, though the Tekins have a wider range of KV ratings- won't make much odds to you if you plan on staying with 4s however.

    Tekin esc fan is easier to replace compared to the Castle esc fan, though you can easily upgrade to a different fan & cover teh air intake with some fine mesh ( stockings or tights ) to keep out debris.

    Both escs are highly adjustable via their PC interfaces ( tekin hotwire & castlelink or field link ).

    Generally, Tekin is seen as the choice for crawlers and racers as Tekin does seem to have more of a racing background or pedigree ( probably.. ), castle provides better power and aftersales service is the best ( free 12month warrenty & cheap non-warrenty replacments ). Your decision really....
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  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. vxlrocket's Avatar
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    i always get the disposable turkey pans from the grocery store. they're only a couple of bucks and plenty big enough.
    any plastic tub will work though. you're not supposed to heat the tub it's in, just pour the water in it that's already at a boiling temp. that saves the pans or tubs from melting to whatever is heating it.

    all you need to do is bring a few gallons of water to a rolling boil in a big soup pot or something and then pour it into the turkey pan and add the dye. no need to stir. then drop in the chassis and let it sit in the dye until the water gets to be room temp. then you're done. if you use the whole bottle of dye and let it set until it's room temp, it should be as black as black can get. i've been dying parts for years.
    One mans garbage is another mans ungarbage" -Ricky

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    More than a year ago I was reading that Tekin boards would crack on "hard landings". They might / must have solved this prob I have not read any thing about that in quit some time. Tenkin ESC are not water resistant correct?
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Heh 40km of running arouund this morning and I find a turkey pan @ sobeys 3 blocks away this afternoon. Its on the BBQ now so we will see in a little bit how my first attempt at this goes. I have the rockers in the boil too. Fished a rocker out after about 35 mins and its looking good. Picked up the end of the chassis and its looking good too. Ill leave it inthere over heat for a while more before shutting the bbq down. Should be ok to just let it cool to room temp and call it good considering I kept it boiling for a bit no? Or just go by what color I end up with?
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    You are cooking a few hot dog too aren't you. I would let it sit till it cools..
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    heh, no hotdogs for me. Cant stand them. There's almost room for a nice T-Bone on there though lol
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    I like it, turned out pretty good for my first time doing a dye job. I may have to figure out how to make the Motor plate and mount black too Make me a ghost ERBE. I'm already thinking about Just spraying our tint combination throughout the underside of the grey pro-graphics ERBE shell...
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    I found the black toe links, are there a black Pushrod Tube available as well? I do not see them on buytraxxas. all i can see are the 5319 black steel rods.
    Last edited by Cameron; 08-28-2011 at 11:22 PM.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  39. #39
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    Sadly no i do not think there are any other option for black pushrods. My black steel 5319s have held up well though

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    i ordered a set of black 5319 and the toe links i need. i also ordered a set of stainless RCScrewz for the truck for the hardware to pop. Im going to try and make everything i can black on this truck.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

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