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  1. #41
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    I received some support from Georg about fitting the aluminium diff cup with the traxxas stock parts. Because English is not my favorite language, I'll explain it with a picture :



    I'll make a video this week and upload it to explain how to file the orange part (picture, P1) to fit it into the differential cup. This operation is very easy, you just have a few minutes of patience and be careful. DON'T file the aluminium diff cup, but file the P2 orange part of my picture. Easy, and you have to remove very few metal to fit it into the diff cup.

    I received a very detailed explanation from Georg to explain why it is not recommended to increase the tolerance of the aluminium diff cup, but it is a private messaging conversation, I can not make a complete copy. I will ask him before if he allows me to quote it, in any case the explanation is clear, and we understand that it is ultimately better to have to file for a few minutes the orange part of my diagram. In the end we get a flawless assembly without any loose! A heavy duty differential.

    So for a beginner, building a differential with this aluminium cup is VERY EASY. We just need a little help on what to do (explained above and will be shown in a video) and a little file tool to adjust the piece of metal in the diff cup.

  2. #42
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    The purpose of the I-bar is to lend stiffness to the cup. If that machined cup is not stiff enough already, there may be a problem with the way you run your truck.

    There are many people who run their Revos with aluminum diff cups. I don't recall many mentioning the need for an I-bar. Usually I'm all for overkill, but...
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  3. #43
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    If that machined cup is not stiff enough already, there may be a problem with the way you run your truck
    Why ? Could you explain please?

  4. #44
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    It was mostly a humorous response but here is a more serious thought:
    If you can torque those heavy-duty aluminum cups enough to need an I-bar you are almost definitely going to be tweaking if not totally destroying other parts.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  5. #45
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    I just got my Diff cups today and one of them is way off. The outside of the cups are machined so nice they look like art sculptures. The inside looks like it was done in a dark garage with a dremel tool and will require machining on the I beam and the cross shaft just to assemble the cup. I am going to try the second one that the parts kind of fit in and see what happens.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igore View Post
    I just got my Diff cups today and one of them is way off. The outside of the cups are machined so nice they look like art sculptures. The inside looks like it was done in a dark garage with a dremel tool and will require machining on the I beam and the cross shaft just to assemble the cup. I am going to try the second one that the parts kind of fit in and see what happens.
    Nice! Let us know how it goes!

  7. #47
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    Mikey560 your PM mailbox on here is full.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLaderunnerx View Post
    Mikey560 your PM mailbox on here is full.
    Sorry I emptied it!

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

  9. #49
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    Anyone experiment with using white lithium grease in the diffs? Too stiff? I have some in a tube on the shelf and was wondering.

  10. #50
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    The diff oil is much thicker than grease and is silicone based and will not make the seals and plastic crack. My favorite ones are Traxxas 500k and Ofna 120,000w. Ok back to the aluminum diff cup, I wish one of you would have warned me that the cups were done so poorly one of the cups is un usable because of the machining. After testing the gears are grinding the aluminum because they sit in there crooked because the depth of the cuts is so uneven. Has anyone used one of these very expensive diff cups with any luck, the video is of a prototype and was probably made with a lot more care than mine were.

  11. #51
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    I hope that's not a common problem. I just bought a pair of of Mikey560.

  12. #52
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    Are these diff's fully locked or we can still unlock n lock them?

  13. #53
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    Unlock able. They are just the cups.

  14. #54
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    Ahh ok. Didn't realize that we reuse the stock parts.

  15. #55
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    Yes they are just the cups and I had such high hopes to cure the only problem I have not been able to fix. If you bash your truck like most do the diff's will let go once in a while in the plastic housing and destroy the whole diff in most cases. The aluminum diff would have been the fix if it had been milled on the inside with the quality of the outside milling. The pictures show the outside but not a clear view of the inside, if you saw that you would never fork out $70 ea. If the I beam was the only internal problem it would be an easy fix. The side plate distortion is what is causing most of the problem. I assembled the cup dry to get a better feel for the problem and the gears are rubbing on the aluminum in several places and when I drop the parts into the stock cup they turn freely and snug. The top lip of the cup is also too tall and the stock diff gasket will not seal because there is no pressure on it to seal, it is just in place because of the screws. I am going to take it into my dental lab tomorrow and see if I can find a way to make it work.

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igore View Post
    The diff oil is much thicker than grease and is silicone based and will not make the seals and plastic crack. My favorite ones are Traxxas 500k and Ofna 120,000w. Ok back to the aluminum diff cup, I wish one of you would have warned me that the cups were done so poorly one of the cups is un usable because of the machining. After testing the gears are grinding the aluminum because they sit in there crooked because the depth of the cuts is so uneven. Has anyone used one of these very expensive diff cups with any luck, the video is of a prototype and was probably made with a lot more care than mine were.
    At the moment it is just your one diff cup that is uneven cuts. Everyone else that has these diffs havent had any problems all they had to do was file it down alittle bit and it was fine. One of Larsen8's diff cups the output hole was alittle bigger then the output shaft but it the diff works fine and doesnt leak. Take some pictures!

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igore View Post
    Yes they are just the cups and I had such high hopes to cure the only problem I have not been able to fix. If you bash your truck like most do the diff's will let go once in a while in the plastic housing and destroy the whole diff in most cases. The aluminum diff would have been the fix if it had been milled on the inside with the quality of the outside milling. The pictures show the outside but not a clear view of the inside, if you saw that you would never fork out $70 ea. If the I beam was the only internal problem it would be an easy fix. The side plate distortion is what is causing most of the problem. I assembled the cup dry to get a better feel for the problem and the gears are rubbing on the aluminum in several places and when I drop the parts into the stock cup they turn freely and snug. The top lip of the cup is also too tall and the stock diff gasket will not seal because there is no pressure on it to seal, it is just in place because of the screws. I am going to take it into my dental lab tomorrow and see if I can find a way to make it work.
    I had the same impressions and experience as you. However, I decided to drop the gears in and run the truck. The front diff was extremely tight, but after ten minutes of light driving, it loosened up quite a bit. I think you just have to give the gears a chance to wear in. But yes, I agree with the fact that the gears fit much nicer into the stock cup. But what you have to realize is that pieces like this are extremely difficult to machine. On the other hand, the stock cup is just a molded piece of plastic.
    I have only run the truck once with the aluminum diff cups, and I took the diffs out again after running it. I didn't take the diffs apart, only opened up the case. As far as I can tell, everything is as it should be. The gears are smoother, no leaking, and the ring gear screws haven't backed out at all (threadlocker). I will run the truck some more this week and then tear down the diffs again and let you all know what I find.
    Why can't other people share my opinions?

  18. #58
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    Another thing to realize is that because each diff cup is made by hand (I would assume), each one is going to be slightly different. With mine, one had a slightly larger output shaft hole than the other (but it still works), and in the other cup, the gears were very tight and did not turn smoothly. But like I said above, you just need to give the gears a chance to adjust to the difference of the aluminum cup.
    Why can't other people share my opinions?

  19. #59
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    Did you grind the I bar and cross shaft to fit or did yous drop in as shipped.

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igore View Post
    Did you grind the I bar and cross shaft to fit or did yous drop in as shipped.
    I had to grind down the contact edges of the i bar so that it would fit and then I put everything together. The reason you have to grind the i bar down is because the i bar edges (looking at the diff from the top with the ring gear off) are squared and the grooves where it fits on the aluminum diff cup are rounded. If you grind the i bar edges down so that they are rounded as well then the i bar fits just fine. I didn't have to do anything to the cross shaft.
    Why can't other people share my opinions?

  21. #61
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    Same for me. I just filed the I bar (orange part in my picture some messages upstairs) but yes it's turning less freely than in the pastic cup but into my opinion you have to wear it as larsen tells you.

    The parts are hand made. Around 1h30 working time per diff cup.

  22. #62
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    Hi, I was allowed to publish a part of our conversation, so here is an excerpt from it:

    ''There is still a lot of handwork making the cups: cutting material, lathe work, finishing the threads etc.
    Nearly all faces are CNC machined - every single cup is tested inside with the original Traxxas spare parts.

    Comparing seven original cups and spare parts there have been several different dimensions and tolerances which are ok for molded parts and normally will make no problems in plastic.
    The "I-bar", the molded (sintered) metal carrier for the gears, is sometimes conic sometimes not.
    Therefore the decision was to machine the smallest dimension and clearance larger parts to fit.

    As you have to be very carefully and "slow" with a 1 or 2 mm milling tool inside the cup the overall machining and handwork time is about 2.5 hours for one part. ''


    It's not 1h30 but 2h30, I was wrong in my previous message.

  23. #63
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    Yep. Just as I suspected. I really think this guy knows what he's doing and we (myself included) don't understand how difficult it can be to make everything perfect when you are machining parts as complicated as this. Just give the diff cups a chance and I really think they will turn out to be one of the best things you ever bought for your Summit.
    Why can't other people share my opinions?

  24. #64
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    Hpp Germany 17mm hubs are great too!

  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLaderunnerx View Post
    Hpp Germany 17mm hubs are great too!
    Did you order a set?

  26. #66
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    I took the best cup and milled the high spots off. Then I ground the I beam and cross shaft on a wet model trimmer until they just barely fit in. The parts now rotate freely dry so I filled it with Traxxas 500k and put it in the rear for testing tomorrow. This one should work good as it diff's fine installed and passed a quick basement test. I will also tear my spare down and do the same to it as well as a shim on the support plate on the side that is milled too much. This should stop the gear from riding hard on the aluminum and filling the cup with metal shavings like it did the first time I assembled this cup.

  27. #67
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    For the HPP hubs, did you get an english site for paypal? I tried to order a set but got what appeared to be a european paypal site (judging by color very similar to US) but since I don't read german it could have been swahili.

  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scaniris View Post
    yes,sir.

  29. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by bandg View Post
    For the HPP hubs, did you get an english site for paypal? I tried to order a set but got what appeared to be a european paypal site (judging by color very similar to US) but since I don't read german it could have been swahili.
    The login screen for the Paypal payment is in German, ok, but after login, the other pages are in English. You don't need to understand German at all Then you'll receive 4 emails. 1 in english for account creation, 1 in english ''please review your order'', 1 paypal receipt in english and 1 email about order status... in German.
    Last edited by Scaniris; 12-22-2011 at 11:46 AM.

  30. #70
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    ok backrabbler

  31. #71
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    just checked my diff cups and the I bar will need to be shaved. what is everyone using to shave these down?
    Revenge 1/8 buggy

  32. #72
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    I used a wet model trimmer wheel just like a sanding wheel. I started with a file which did not do much to the hardened steel. Anything that spins fast and you can hold it steady should do. Body grinder in a vise ? I just finished my second one so the truck is done but I will not test until tomorrow. They were a bit of work to get right but now they seem great. An instruction sheet telling about this would have prevented me from blowing smoke out my ears when the new parts would not fit in the cups. Now the main parts can be reused even if I need a gear change down the road.

  33. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igore View Post
    I used a wet model trimmer wheel just like a sanding wheel. I started with a file which did not do much to the hardened steel. Anything that spins fast and you can hold it steady should do. Body grinder in a vise ? I just finished my second one so the truck is done but I will not test until tomorrow. They were a bit of work to get right but now they seem great. An instruction sheet telling about this would have prevented me from blowing smoke out my ears when the new parts would not fit in the cups. Now the main parts can be reused even if I need a gear change down the road.
    what about a dremel tool with a sanding drum on it. Also do you shave it flat or rounded?
    Revenge 1/8 buggy

  34. #74
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    Yes you could use that but it will take a while so something more industrial would be faster. I ground mine flat the only way they would fit in my model trimmer. As long as they drop in flush they should be fine.

  35. #75
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    I was using a file for the ''I-bar'' and it was working fine... you just need a file suitable for this type of metal that's all. Less than 10 minutes, gradually. I also own a Proxxon Micromot equipment (+/- s= Dremmel) to do the same thing, but I was recommended to use a hand file for more accuracy.

    @ BLaderunnerx: WOW, today I received the HPP 17mm hex hub. The finish is AMAZING, amazing, amazing. Plus the design seems to be exactly what I was looking for. I had a look onto a kind of similar product by Integy but... this one looks better. Plus I received it in less than 2 business days. Plus like sometimes when ordering in Germany or UK... you get some candies and chocolates into the box! (I really appreciate such little attention) I'll make an unboxing video + photos + installation video in another topic.

  36. #76
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    I am looking forward to getting the HPP hubs. I ordered them a while ago and they will probably arrive on the 27th

  37. #77
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    I managed to fit one diff set into an Alu Cup so far. My gears are binding a little bit.. Do you guy tight fit the I-bar, or do you leave some play?

  38. #78
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    Mine fit snug but if you turn the cup upside down and tap it on the counter the I bar will come out. Both the I bar and cross shaft are touching the sides but not forced in. Mine both passed the Christmas trashing this weekend with the Summit getting beaten hard and smashed jumping snow banks and ditches. They still work great and no leaks or binding.

  39. #79
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    Per my contact with the owner of HPP about the 17mm hubs, he states that the paypal site in German has some problems and often will not process payments as entered. I have tried two orders and had no luck getting either through for processing but neither have shown up on my paypal account either. The owner (Markus I believe) has been extremely helpful with the process and has suggested a method to solve the problem that he has had to use before so there are apparently issues with the site. He has been extremely pleasant to communicate with and I do want to try a set of the hubs. I have made one set of the brass inserts and they do work really well to eliminate wheel wobble for those needing something quicker and cheaper.

  40. #80
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    does he only sell sets of ten or can i get 2 from someone here?

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