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Thread: Driveshafts

  1. #1
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    Driveshafts

    im running vxl and 2s lipo and keep snapping drivelines. A couple weeks ago i bought a whole driveshaft with stub and everything. But now my lhs cant find the part i bought anywhere? So what drivelines do you run?

  2. #2
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    MIP CVD's They have steel telescoping shafts instead of plastic. The universal joints are ballcup instead of yokes. Or you can get the 4wd slash shafts which are stronger than the 2wd slash shaft.
    XO-1, Roadrunner Slash

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    do you know how much they are off hand? pretty sure the shaft i bought was beefier 4x4 one

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    I paid $74 ninety nine canadian as opposed to $8 for the stock ones.
    XO-1, Roadrunner Slash

  5. #5
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    i found the whole assembly i bought awhile ago in like 5 mintutes that my lhs couldnt find for the life of them

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    I just paid $20 for the complete 4X4 plastic set at my lhs. I have previously spent $40 for the STRC cvd kit and $8 for their rebuild kit because I kept losing the pins out of the bell cups, even with loctite. I'm tired of losing the pins so I went back to plastic.
    I Wanna Go Fast!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by snicklefritz View Post
    I just paid $20 for the complete 4X4 plastic set at my lhs. I have previously spent $40 for the STRC cvd kit and $8 for their rebuild kit because I kept losing the pins out of the bell cups, even with loctite. I'm tired of losing the pins so I went back to plastic.
    blue or red?
    XO-1, Roadrunner Slash

  8. #8
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    I just bought mip cvd kit for mine but have not installed yet because i learned afterwards they releaed a revised version where that part of the unit is prebuilt and no need for pins and loc tite. They have a red cup cap opposed to white which is how u tell diff. I read sumwhere that people shrink wrap that part on the older versions that need pin and loctite assembly done by user
    'Life is for living, not living uptight'

  9. #9
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    Go with the MIP CVD kit for the rustler. It works for slash and it is amazingly strong. There are 2 versions of it. Regular and X-strong. Here are the links. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lash-Slash-4x4

    http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_.../MIP-C-CVD-Kit

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by judgegixxer View Post
    blue or red?
    Blue. Is red better? I also like Rallysoob's suggestion, but it would have to some thin shrink wrap to keep everything moving.
    I Wanna Go Fast!

  11. #11
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    The blue is for bolts that that u need to take back out in future, the Red is supposed to be "Permanent" so if that doesn't hold em' somthings wrong. Then again you might not get them undone ever with red. I've only used red on real sized bolts and it definately holds.
    XO-1, Roadrunner Slash

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyxKid View Post
    Go with the MIP CVD kit for the rustler. It works for slash and it is amazingly strong. There are 2 versions of it. Regular and X-strong. Here are the links. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lash-Slash-4x4

    http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_.../MIP-C-CVD-Kit
    I have this version which is different than both of those.
    http://miponline.com/store/mip11106.html
    XO-1, Roadrunner Slash

  13. #13
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    Anyone use the Venom steel shafts? I have a set right in front of me waiting for install.

  14. #14
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    I was always breaking shafts until i switched to mip cvds, the only thing i had to do was put limiters on the shock shafts so that the dogbone wouldnt bind in the drive cup, if you look at the dogbone you can see the binding marks close to the drive cup,. Cost $30


  15. #15
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    Venom Steel shafts are pretty bad. I broke the left one right after I installed it and the right one after I put the stock left one back in.
    I am calling about a refund or replacement.

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    XO-1, Roadrunner Slash

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by msmpugs98 View Post
    Venom Steel shafts are pretty bad. I broke the left one right after I installed it and the right one after I put the stock left one back in.
    I am calling about a refund or replacement.
    anything ive had with the name venom on it, either broke or quit working pretty much as soon as i bought it.
    XO-1, Roadrunner Slash

  18. #18
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    i run the 4x4 shafts in the 2wd and the mip x duty in the 4wd slashes i use to snap mip cvd in my 2wd slash that why i went back to plastics

  19. #19
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    +1 on the Slash 4x4 shafts. Has been bulletproof so far and saves some money so I can spend it on other parts that I don't need .

  20. #20
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    Don't buy those overpriced cvds, just get slash 4x4 rear drive shafts!! I run my vxl slash on 3s like I stole it! even with my spartan electronics they work so well.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by judgegixxer View Post
    I also run the MIP X-DUTY shafts!!!
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    I also run the MIP X-DUTY shafts!!!
    So how do they hold up in the area that the small pin rides in the center area ? All the other areas my be strong but for me that area is the weak point and hogs out ! Any probs with set screws comeing out ?

  23. #23
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    I broke/lost at least half a dozen of those long pins from the MIP X-Duties. Red threadlock, making my own pins from hardened drill rod... nothing worked. I sold them and went back to plastic 4x4 shafts. So I can't wait for the XO-1 shafts to be released.

  24. #24
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    Didnt I see some steel shafts that had real u joints like the plastic ones and had a short splined slider ! Was shinny and skinny ? They looked strong but I can only seem to find them for the T-Maxx ! Who makes them and can you get them for the slash rear only ?

    http://http://www.google.com/search?...0&bih=268#i=22
    Last edited by cooleocool; 12-23-2011 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Post merge.

  25. #25
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    No problems yet but I only have about 100km on them.
    XO-1, Roadrunner Slash

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