Jimmie Neutron's Build

[jamann]

Good idea .....also I have the same hex wrenches as you. lol


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[JimmyNeutron]

I have had to buy a second set... wore out a few on the first set and did not want to be without when I sent them in for replacement.

[ksb51rl]

For those that notice some wording changes and pictures disappearing:

ksb51rl and I have discussed this in recent PM's. What it boils down to is that some of my past posts do not comply with Traxxas' new retailer posting rules... and some of my most recent ones where skating on the edge (not on purpose mind you) on being acceptable. KSB could have simply deleted the thread... but instead he is taking time out of his schedule to clean it up so it can stay up for everyone to keep referring to.

And I thank him for that...
Thank you for your time, ksb51rl!

Ya that KSB is such a mean guy
Power crazed over zealous .....lol
but he has a white summit so it's all good.... in case anyone wonders that is said with tongue planted firmly in cheek...lol


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Thanks gentlemen. It is always a pleasure communicating with both of you.

That said I really hate this build. It has too many good things that I'd love to do and might even be able to do, but I know I won't get around to it. I'm glad somebody can.

[JimmyNeutron]

Don't feel too bad... you can live vicariously through me. lol

I have something to add to the rear bumper LED re-wire...

The leads cannot be bent at a 90 tight to the LED. It must be bent a couple-few millimeters off the LED so that it will snap into the bumper when you are done.
If I were smarter, I would have snapped a pic of this BEFORE I gooed them in.

[ksb51rl]

Oh, I forgot to mention that it looks great too. Is there a jealousy smiley?

[mike-susieq1]

haha you guys crack me up. nice build Jimmie. enjoy seeing people build and mod things up so i can get some ideas of my own for later use. keep them coming.

[JimmyNeutron]

Rebuilt the shocks today... while I was in there I also installed PN 5461, Variable damping kit. I used piston 3, 50wt oil, and a few drops of 10k in the rear shocks.
So far, I like it!






But, I did not get to test it out for too long... darn guide wires!
BTW, these really do not corner well with only the rear axles installed. lol

[JimmyNeutron]

While I have it apart, I am going to be placing foam body washers (PN 4915) where the shafts meet the differentials and transmission.




>>Part link would be going to "Buy Traxxas" site if it was working...
clicking the link at the top of the page leads directly to Google.

[jamann]

I have had to buy a second set... wore out a few on the first set and did not want to be without when I sent them in for replacement.

Mine are getting shorter couple mill's at a time. When they wear I just grind/cut a bit off.


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[JimmyNeutron]

I have the ball end ones, Jamann.
Though I have thought of grinding them down to create straight ones...

On my RC parts search I found this: http://www.hobbypartz.com/libaprforcar.html
The description is not that clear... at least not to my fuzzy brain... is this a LVC?
(I think I need more sleep lol)

[jamann]

I have the ball end ones, Jamann.
Though I have thought of grinding them down to create straight ones...

On my RC parts search I found this: http://www.hobbypartz.com/libaprforcar.html
The description is not that clear... at least not to my fuzzy brain... is this a LVC?
(I think I need more sleep lol)

Mine started out as ball ends ...lol
That one could be the cut off style.there were reports of cut offs not playing well with the evx2


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[JimmyNeutron]

I have a LVD EVX2... a buddy of mine is adding LiPo to his Stampede and asked me to spend his money for a charger, a LiPo, and the support equipment like a LVA/LVC. Currently he is running NiCd... NiCd!!

[jamann]

Well he is in for a pleasant surprise



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[JimmyNeutron]

Or a smoked XL5. lol

[JimmyNeutron]

Got to work on it for a little bit today...


Just realized I can mount my fan this way for the ESC. lol


Finally have 4WD!! (and I remembered to install foam washers)



Had to do a little work on the Traxxas wheel for the GT3B radio... it was giving me more throw to the right than it was to the left. I had to shorten the steering post and drill for a screw to come from the top to line it up properly. (don't worry, you cannot feel the hole through the foam) My wedges from before were not working... but now I have 491 increments to the left and 490 increments to the right. Stock is 398 increments to the left and 397 increments to the right... so I have a little more throw with this wheel compared to stock.

[JimmyNeutron]

Does anybody make aluminum tops and bottoms for the stock Traxxas shock bodies?

[JimmyNeutron]

Had some time this morning...


Maybe now I won't loose as many body clips.

[happymachinist]

Does anybody make aluminum tops and bottoms for the stock Traxxas shock bodies?

hot racing-

Silver alum. shock upgrade kit
RVO15608

Silver ball type alum shock ends
RVO154M08

What I've got from them I have been pleased with their quality.


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[JimmyNeutron]

Thanks happy... from what I can tell these have only the top cap and not the bottom??

My caps came in!


Here is how tight the Rx box is before the cap...


Here is how tight it is after the cap.
Unfortunately, it does not stop the lights from flickering, but at least they do not go off!


Soldered the cap directly to the Rx.


Rx all closed up.


Rx box all closed up.
The motor has to be removed to have room to flip the Rx box on its' side to work on it; but it keeps the wires out of the way once it is in place.


I finally made it to the hardware store for some aluminum flat bar...
I should be able to make a BEC battery mount tomorrow.

[krallopian]

I was trying to figure out how you had so much room on that chassis!

.............. *oh* no motor

Nice, I like how you soldered the cap in place too!

Weren't you getting larger caps?

[JimmyNeutron]

I was hoping these 10 for $3 caps would work... as you can see, I do not have much room. All the space below the Rx is filled with a BEC, Rx switch, harnesses, and excess wire. As a matter of fact, it takes me about 10 minuets to close it up... if one wire is out of place, the lid will not shut.
In all honesty, the LED's will hardly be used so this really does not matter.
Also, when this BEC goes, I am going to need one that can handle more amperage; yet be about the same size and still have some type of LVA.


I forgot to mention that when I was disassembling the Rx box I pulled a little hard on the antenna... I attempted to solder it back on, but I only have about 15' of range. -Good thing I bought an extra! (and that they are only $15)

[happymachinist]

Thanks happy... from what I can tell these have only the top cap and not the bottom??

By god you're right! Shoulda looked a little closer...why wouldn't they just include 75% of what you needed?? Then sell the pivot ball ends separate??

Might have to ask/look at the revo side and see what they've come up with.


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[JimmyNeutron]

That is all I am really looking for... a top and bottom cap. I am hoping that this will help stop the leaking... I know I am over-tightening the plastic, but it has such a small sweet spot! Just a little loose and it leaks.... a little too tight and it leaks. lol

Thanks for taking the time!!

[Edstoys]

Jimmie; put a small bead of ATV sealant on the cap threads and see if that helps with the leaking, be careful not to get any in the hole in the cap. Just an idea after I have used the stuff for a few things that have leaked. One being shocks on my Pede.
Or take the cap and go see if you can find a O ring that will fit.

[jamann]

Teflon tape maybe worth a shot too


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[JimmyNeutron]

Thanks for the tips!!
I will be sure to do something next time I take the shocks off.


My new radio came in today... the one I ordered to replace the one that was messed up while soldering... and it doesn't work!
I have filed a defective part claim with pictures... hopefully I do not have to send it back as that would not make any sense; unless they are paying shipping. lol (yeah, right!)
What happens is that the screen comes on, but there is no information:


Other than that...
the grip is smaller than the GT3B
the DR button is difficult to operate

Hopefully I can get a functioning radio soon!!

[reod12x2]

hey jimmie
why do you have the foam body washers on the diff outputs?

is it to stop the oil/grease going out or the dirt coming in?

[JimmyNeutron]

The dirt from coming in.
If oil or grease is coming out; the washers may slow it down, but this is definitely now the way to fix it.

[JimmyNeutron]

Finally got a response back from the claims department...
They want the radio shipped back to them at my cost; but at least it is to an USA address.

Now I am trying to get them to tell me if they will either send me a another radio or simply give me store credit.
Store credit will not make any sense at all... it is a $35 radio that costs about $20 to ship. Between shipping the broken one to them and shipping the new one to me I will have $30 into the new one... when I can fix the old one myself for free.
If they are willing to ship me a replacement, that I will to do for $10....

What's wrong with the radio is the screen is bad. I have a "parts" GT3B that I cut the screen out of today and when I line up the pins in parallel with the bad one, the GT3B screen operates as is should with the GTX3 software... meaning I can solder the good screen in place of the bad screen for next to nothing.

[Edstoys]

For cheap cost of the radio I would keep in and replace that screen if you can do that and you are sure it will work.
Not getting a diffident reply from them on whether they will replace it or give store credit But then again they may be very well aware of people like you that alter the radio and that is what they are looking for. IF you opened it up my bet is to keep it and fix it, but $35 to some is worth fighting over.
Destroyed twice that much in parts to try and get my rear steering going, witch by the way I feel I have accomplished tonight.
Waiting for new parts to show up on Thurs. hopefully.

[JimmyNeutron]

Since I can fix it faster than they can ship it... I may just fix it.

[JimmyNeutron]

Well... I gave it a shot tonight; I am not 100% pleased with the results, but I can see most of the screen. I am not sure if it is my soldering or if the circuit board itself has some issues. lol I know that it works great on the screen readout I was testing it on, but when the Enter dial is turned, parts of the screen will dim and flicker.... oh well. I may just order a GT3B sometime and throw the top board in the GTX3... no big hurry as I can see enough of the screen to figure out what is going on.

[Edstoys]

Here ya go Jimmie.....Hot racings Shock Upgrade kit.
http://www.hobbyetc.com/item.cgi?part_id=34322
Both top and bottom along with adjustment screw.

I use almost nothing but hot racing's stuff when it comes to alum parts and have been very happy with their stuff.

[JimmyNeutron]

No bottom...
It has a top, adjuster, and a spring retainer... but no bottom for the shock body.

I agree on HR's parts being quality... I have their knuckles on my MERV and like them.

[Edstoys]

Should have looked closer.. OR you can go this route

http://www.hobbyetc.com/item.cgi?part_id=42711

[JimmyNeutron]

This may be the ticket!
I wonder what their dimensions are??
Normally I wouldn't care, but I have the stock shocks set up just the way I like them with the variable dampening kit.


EDIT:
A little research got me some dimensions, 16mm was consistent for the diameter, but the length varied from 95mm to 110mm... Stock is 87mm according to the manual and I couldn't find anything on diameter.
I will keep looking... there has to be someone on this forum that has these!

[krallopian]

They'd look pretty sheckshe in the Summit! I wanna know the spring rates compared to stock double-orange. I see it says 20lb springs, but what does that relate to in regards to the stockers....


**********

Never mind, I Just found this:

120mm Travel
Dot Color Spring Rate
Silver 28.0 lb/in (4.9 N/mm)
Pink 30.8 lb/in (5.4 N/mm)
Blue 33.7 lb/in (5.9 N/mm)
Purple 36.5 lb/in (6.4 N/mm)

According to the numbers, the stock Summit springs are a 5.4N/mm which puts them to 30.8lbs which MEANS the springs that come with these shocks are 1/3 less stiff. I want stifffffer.

I just remember I have double-orange springs waiting for me at the LHS right now hahaha!!!

[Edstoys]

DOT (Department of Transportation but your are in Canada so that my not appy) does not apply to Traxxas GTR shocks. According to Traxxas
5444 Spring, shock (red) (GTR) (5.9 rate blue) (std. rear 120mm)
5445 Spring, shock (red) (GTR) (6.4 rate purple)
5648 Spring, shock (red) (long) (GTR) (4.9 rate double yellow stripe)
5649 Spring, shock (red) (long) (GTR) (5.4 rate double orange stripe)

All the ones on buy Traxxas above these(7 other spring rates)are to short(without any adjustment down on the spring adjustment collar) for the Summit, I found that out the hard way.
Summit springs start at the blue dot here http://buy.traxxas.com/default.php?c...91_12835_12559
is what I was told by CS a while back after ordering two sets to short.

They'd look pretty sheckshe in the Summit! I wanna know the spring rates compared to stock double-orange. I see it says 20lb springs, but what does that relate to in regards to the stockers....


**********

Never mind, I Just found this:

120mm Travel
Dot Color Spring Rate
Silver 28.0 lb/in (4.9 N/mm)
Pink 30.8 lb/in (5.4 N/mm)
Blue 33.7 lb/in (5.9 N/mm)
Purple 36.5 lb/in (6.4 N/mm)

According to the numbers, the stock Summit springs are a 5.4N/mm which puts them to 30.8lbs which MEANS the springs that come with these shocks are 1/3 less stiff. I want stifffffer.

I just remember I have double-orange springs waiting for me at the LHS right now hahaha!!!

[hewmack]

I'm eager to see final product and videos of it running. Thanks for your input on the servo too I ended up ordering one

[JimmyNeutron]

I really don't have that much work left to get it running... it is just kinda hard to find the time when you are watching 3 kids under the age of 4 all by yourself! Someone always needs some kind of attention. lol