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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    body repairs for our RC's?

    ok so whats the best way to add some strength to the body? i got some cracks in my slayer pro, and in t-maxx. i was debating in drilling more small holes and using zip ties, or basically glueing something to the inside of the body. or maybe both? whats the best way to really go about this people? looking for opinions on this as im about to get atleast the slayer out for the season. nothing but race tires on the maxx right now though so its tracks only or nothing at all.
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  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    fiberglass
    shoegoo
    duct tape
    bedliner
    loads of stuff will work, even the things you said. whatever you think will hold up the longest and is most durable.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    never tried any of them thats why i was wondering which one would be best to use. the only thing i have here is duct tape a drill and zip ties though lol. guess i just didnt think of the duct tape because i figured it would come off if it got wet at all.
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  4. #4
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    pop rivets too

    Vintage TRX collector|Florida Dirt Oval racer

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRTracer121 View Post
    pop rivets too

    looks extremely heavy lol
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  6. #6
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    they are aluminum

    actually pop rivets work very well. no heavier than a gob of shoe goo and a scrap of lexan.

    there really is no perfect solution short of just running the body till its in half and being replaced. once that crack is there its there for good. shoegoo and lexan/drywall tape/ screen mesh, they all add weight (not a big deal anymore with the seemingly unlimited torque of bl compared to brushed) and if its not done right or the paint was improperly done the shoe goo will lift the paint. pop rivets have draw backs as well. it creates a weak point and they can still fail. plus when it does fail it normally takes other lexan with um.
    Vintage TRX collector|Florida Dirt Oval racer

  7. #7
    genXrated
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    SRT is right, every solution is a band aid. I've drilled holes @ the end of cracks before, only to see it crack on the other side of the hole the very next time I crashed. Shoegoo is great stuff, but not for body repairs. I did however repair a sidewall on a stock tire after it ripped, and it is still holding strong. How long that will last remains to be seen, but for now it works if I want to use that set of tires again.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Ive always used spare lexan and shoe goo. The shoe goo dries just slightly flexible so you don't end up with a hard spot that will crack later on. Many people on here will use fibre drywall tape and shoe good and reinforce any weak areas of the body BEFORE they crack. Ive never done this myself but have purchased a few bodies with it done and they are VERY strong. Seems like a great option. Again, I HAVE used shoe goo and lexan to repair bodies many times though. It works great also.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Best job I've seen done was someone used joint compound tape, the mesh kind, along with shoe goo....

    This is why I don't wait for my body to be trashed before I start on a new one.... I usually make a new body, use it and once I see it's showing wear, I start on my next body...

    I've always kept a body for bashing and a body that's for showing off at the track....

    Biggest thing is body choice. Anything that has a lot of squared off corners and edges, like a Hummer body, is going to be more prone to tear and rip in the corners. I prefer choosing a body that has more rounded edges, they tend to hold up better. Also lexan thickness is a good thing to look at. The Prolines are 0.60" thick. They hold up pretty well.

    Another thing is your cuts, make them nice and round, no corners. Then sand all your edges smooth. This will also help preventing tears....

    I've also found that many roll cages cause problems with the bodies when you roll the bodies flex the roll cage doesn't and the body gets a hole worn through it or a tear... Don't know much more to do about that one. One of the many reasons why I don't use roll cages..
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  10. #10
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    Could you use padding on the roll cage like between the Handle bars on a dirt bike

  11. #11
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    Here is a video I found on youtube that works very well. there are lots of methods. Just do what you think will work the best.
    Thrash It, Bash it, Break it, No Regrets!!!

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    I like that D, thanks for the vid, my bodies are getting pretty thrashed so im going to do that when i get a few dollars and see how long i can make them last for. both are just stock traxxas bodies so there not the thick proline bodies. those are in plans for the future though. after paint is dry i might just shoe goo them to make them stronger before they start cracking lol.
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  13. #13
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    This body was junk. Now it will last a looooong time. It weighs as much as two trimed bodies now and the paint will never ever chip. Shoe goo and sheat rock mud tape makes a awsome bashing body.
    Broken parts=New better parts

  14. #14
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    What about carbon fiber cloth I need to figure out what to fasten either fiber glass carbon fiber drywall tape or duck tape or that fix it tape at Home Depot guess you just get the stuff wet and it bonds and molds to everything what is shoe goo

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    You want the mesh drywall tape and a tube of Shoe Goo
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