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  1. #1
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    TQ Link 2.4 with Castle SCT

    Hi guys!

    I have a Grave Digger with Castle 3800 and Sidewinder with a TX from *********.

    I bought a 1/16 Rally VXL and it comes with TQ Link 2.4 #2338
    I bought a Traxxas Receiver TQ 2.4 Micro #2218x to put on Grave Digger.

    I made the bind to the new receiver and it worked well but I having some symptons.

    1- I don't have brake! I tried to configure like on manual and nothing change. If I made the same configuration on Rally, it works. I move the Multi Knob when setup is pointing to brake and I can change the brake power. On Grave Digger, the brakes doesnt't work.

    2- Sometimes the reverse is too week. Barely move.

    Any sugestions?!

    thanks!
    Grave Digger - SPC, Big Bores and RPM parts...

  2. #2
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    Check all the castle link settings.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephan81 View Post
    Check all the castle link settings.
    I checked. I connected the castle to USB and the ESC is correctly configured.
    Grave Digger - SPC, Big Bores and RPM parts...

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Did you calibrate the ESC to the Tx?

    Direct from Castles, " Driver's Ed Guide "

    STEP 1 : Start with the transmitter ON and the ESC switched OFF and not connected to the
    battery.
    STEP 2 : Plug a battery into your Castle ESC.
    STEP 3 : Hold full throttle on the transmitter and turn the ESC’s switch ON. Keep holding fullthrottle on the transmitter. If all your connections are correct, you will hear one multi-toned
    initialization “ring” from the motor (all tones are played by the ESC vibrating the motor).
    STEP 4 : After a second or two, the green LED on the ESC will blink rapidly and the motor will
    “ring” 4 times rapidly in a row (accepting the full throttle endpoint). After the green LED
    flashes and tones, the ESC will blink the red LED. At this point the full throttle endpoint has
    been set within the ESC and now it’s looking for the full brake endpoint (red LED blinking).
    STEP 5 : Move the throttle trigger to the full brake position and hold full brake. After a
    few seconds, the ESC will flash the red LED and ring 4 times rapidly (accepting full brake
    endpoint).
    STEP 6 : After accepting the full brake endpoint the ESC will then blink the yellow LED. Now
    relax the trigger to the neutral position. The ESC will now ring 4 times and flash the yellow
    LED rapidly to accept the neutral position.After accepting the neutral position, the ESC will ring twice and flash ALL the LEDs. This is
    the arming tone and LED indication that the ESC IS NOW ARMED and the car will respond to
    throttle inputs from your transmitter.
    From this point on, when you connect batteries and turn the switch on, the ESC will give the
    initialization tone and flash after a battery is plugged in and the switch is turned on, and
    the arming tone will ring a second or two later. If the ESC is programmed for the Auto-Lipo
    setting, it will beep the number of cells in your Lipo pack between the initialization tones and
    the arming tones. After the arming tone plays, the ESC is ACTIVE and will respond to throttle
    application.
    Weak Revenge
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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    After you have calibrated the ESC to the Tx. You need to go into Castle Link and change the Reverse/ Brake Type; this needs to be on Setting #3 " Foward/ Brake/ Reverse ". Default its at Reverse Lockout for racing.

    Its good to calibrate the ESC/ Tx once in a while. Its quick and easy, also ensures everything is still good.
    Weak Revenge
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    After you have calibrated the ESC to the Tx. You need to go into Castle Link and change the Reverse/ Brake Type; this needs to be on Setting #3 " Foward/ Brake/ Reverse ". Default its at Reverse Lockout for racing.

    Its good to calibrate the ESC/ Tx once in a while. Its quick and easy, also ensures everything is still good.
    Ops, I forgot about that (actually I never knew!) hehehe

    I will try that in a couple of hours and let you know the result.

    Thanks again DiggerPede!
    Grave Digger - SPC, Big Bores and RPM parts...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    After you have calibrated the ESC to the Tx. You need to go into Castle Link and change the Reverse/ Brake Type; this needs to be on Setting #3 " Foward/ Brake/ Reverse ". Default its at Reverse Lockout for racing.

    Its good to calibrate the ESC/ Tx once in a while. Its quick and easy, also ensures everything is still good.
    DiggerPede, calibration is done! Nice and easy!
    The instructions that you posted was perfect!

    Thanks!

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Got ya all hooked up then?
    Weak Revenge
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    Got ya all hooked up then?
    Yeah! Both cars are working with same TQ Link.
    Forward and reverse OK
    Brakes OK

    The calibration of castle ESC were missing like you said.
    Now I have to put my new ESC Hobbywing 60A on my Rally and I'm done!

    Thanks
    Grave Digger - SPC, Big Bores and RPM parts...

  10. #10
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    Good job Digger.Another happy customer. Lol

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