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  1. #1
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    Help with pede please

    When I give it full throttle it starts out slow then builds up and it's like it hits a powerband and then takes off? Idk what it is I'm using a yellow xl5 and stock receiver and controller 7 cell 3300 mah pack
    Last edited by Emaxx1991; 04-26-2012 at 10:31 AM.

  2. #2
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    Does it make a really loud whine at the same time?

    Could be a loose slipper clutch. If it gets up to normal speed and no clicking, diff is working fine?
    VXL P2de, rusty MMP Orion vortex, mid '90's P2de

  3. #3
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    No I snugged the slipper down pretty tight the motor has a whine that me emaxx motors don't but other then that it seems fine

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    Hmm sounds, then, like you have installed a turbo to it .

    Hmm so slipper is ok, but there is still a whine? And low power untill its got moving.

    Are you still on the titan? Im assuming it was broken in right and maintained?

    Have you checked the bearings/bushings at the wheels for any binding?
    VXL P2de, rusty MMP Orion vortex, mid '90's P2de

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I had a titan that was doing the same thing... right before it died. It was not like a whine, but a metal on metal scream. You could also feel that something was holding the truck back, and snap! it would take off like normal.
    I re oiled the motor bushings and the sound went away, and the hole shot power was back, but the motor only lasted about 10 more runs before kicking the bucket.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  6. #6
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    I took it out and cleaned and re oiled it but it sounds just like how u described the way yours sounded I'm not sure how it was broke in i got it used

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx1991 View Post
    I took it out and cleaned and re oiled it but it sounds just like how u described the way yours sounded I'm not sure how it was broke in i got it used
    I know what that sound is. I think its the bushings in the motor. Take out your motor...does the shaft wobble at all? Even a little bit would cause that noise. I'm pretty sure thats the shaft wobbling very fast inside the bushings. It has happened with every single brushed motor that I've ever burned out right before they fry.
    I'm pretty sure you need a new motor.
    Yes the sound will go away and it will perform normally for a few minutes if you ad oil...but it just starts doing it again every run.
    "I like rc cars"....."WHAT? YOU'RE KIDDING!"

  8. #8
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    i think the issue i am having with the full throttle could be my receiver it seems like i dont have very good range at all what can i do?

  9. #9
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    See if your reciever antenna got cut.
    "I like rc cars"....."WHAT? YOU'RE KIDDING!"

  10. #10
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    it does seem like it got pinched pretty good but not cut but i cant reallt tell can i cut it and re solder it?

  11. #11
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    ???????????

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Not sure about that one. Post that up on the radio section forum. Those guys are geniuses over there and would prob be able to help.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  13. #13
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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    sounds like a broken gear. That high pitched tone is a normal sound the brush to commutator arc makes.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  15. #15
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    naw the gears are fine its a drive shaft rubbing on the wood lol i have never heard this "squeal" from my maxx motors

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    What wood? The driveshafts should be about an inch off that wooden block with the suspension arms inbetween the wood and the shaft? Have you at least taken the gear cover off and inspected the spur?
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  17. #17
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    Yes I just put a steel idler gear in it 2 days ago

  18. #18
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    Why did you replace the idler gear? It sounds like the diff housing teeth are damaged to me. Or, there is something else in the tranny or diff damaged. It's hard to tell from a video though.

  19. #19
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    Lol I know it sounds bad but it's just the joints of the shafts rubbing on the wood I replaced it because it was shredded

  20. #20
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    The video was only ment to find out what the whining noise was which someone explained

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx1991 View Post
    The video was only ment to find out what the whining noise was which someone explained
    Hey I clicked on through a few more of your photobucket pics and came across one that has some kind of gauge in a Pede wheel. What is it?? Sorry if I'm being a bit nosy.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  22. #22
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    The loudest whine I hear was from the speed controller. It will whine the most at small throttle inputs as it cycles power on and off to produce the slower speeds.
    Donít handicap children by making life easy

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    Hey I clicked on through a few more of your photobucket pics and came across one that has some kind of gauge in a Pede wheel. What is it?? Sorry if I'm being a bit nosy.
    If u search pede speed measure or clink the link I tried a new way to do speed runs, it worked but not very good
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8947386

  24. #24
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    my motor did the same thing before one of the brushes broke and killed the motor (Titan 12T) about the receiver wire, it can be re soldered (I did it myself) just make sure you have a small wire and a fine point solder tip because you can easily solder parts together and kill your receiver. however it did not fix the Range issue... I'm guessing that the receiver is not getting enough power from my SV2 ESC.. but whatever it works for about 50-70yards..
    Stampede with Novak 8.5T at 12Volts on a SV2

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjm2519 View Post
    The loudest whine I hear was from the speed controller. It will whine the most at small throttle inputs as it cycles power on and off to produce the slower speeds.
    ^^ This is the correct answer to the whining sound.

    As for the power band effect, this could be caused by one of several things. Nimh packs tend to have a power band effect when they are cool or room temp. As the load of the motor increases from the throttle input, the draw from the pack increases and the cells of the pack heat up. Basically, warm cells allow more power to flow out. Therefore if the pack is cool, it doesn't run the truck as fast until it warms up. Racers use pack warmers to take advantage of this power increase without having to run or charge the pack to get it warmed up. Nimh packs run best when used right off the charger, but this can also have an adverse affect of too much heat and can shorten the overall life of the pack, which is already a fairly short life to begin with.

    The other thing that can cause this power band effect is the planetary gears inside the differential. If they are damaged or worn, they can skip or the mesh can disengage under load, the truck will still move, but very slowly until you reach a speed where the load is less and the planetaries start to engage and transfer the full power of the trans to the truck. Sometimes stripped or worn planetaries are nearly impossible to hear, which makes one assume that there is nothing wrong with them. I've had it happen a lot personally, and have seen it many, many times on this forum. If all else fails and you can't seem to find the root of the issue, then get a new complete diff with new planetary gears cuz they are cheap.

    Another thing that can cause the power band effect is a stripped hex. This gives almost the same effect as running a loose slipper and won't allow for full power to the wheels. Best to check and make sure.

    A tight gear mesh can also cause the truck to feel sluggish, as it increases the workload of the motor. The truck will start slow at first because of the higher load on the motor, then will gain speed as the load becomes less from the momentum of the truck. this is most noticeable when running a brushed motor and nimh packs, and will shorten the life of the motor and the pack and in some cases can cause damage to the esc if the load exceeds the escs max rating. When running brushless, it usually translates to motor heat, but when using a high discharge rated lipo, it can overload the esc the same as over-gearing.

    Hope this helps and good luck getting it all sorted out.


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  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    The whining sound is made by the motor, not the esc.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    The whining sound is made by the motor, not the esc.
    I agree I took the motor out and it's deffinatly coming from the motor, I put the motor in a cup of water to try to break it in better I guess and it started out sounding like it was loping in the water but after about 25 min it got smooth at low and high speed I hope this fixed it!?!?!?

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. BaldyDaniels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    The whining sound is made by the motor, not the esc.
    Absolutely true. I was agreeing with rjm2519 because his statement is also correct, as this whining is CAUSED by the esc cycling the power to the motor at low speeds. But yes, the motor emits the whining sound. So technically, both statements have truth to them.

    To the op, there is no way to break in a motor again unless you have installed brand new brushes and used a comm lathe to produce a new comm surface. BUT... The water method you used could potentially clean the brush material off of the comm which may restore some power.


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