Bashproof Merv

**sbeardy14** · 05-23-2012, 10:35 AM

I just got a new Merv and am very anxious to upgrade a little; however, learning from my first experience with RCs, I have decided to do a little research before going too crazy. Below is a list of upgrades I have found through various forums so let me know if you know of better parts or pricing out there.

Front A-Arms RPM http://www.rcplanet.com/RPM_Racing_F...p/rpm80692.htm
Rear A-Arms RPM http://www.rcplanet.com/RPM_Products...p/rpm80602.htm
Front Axle Carriers RPM http://www.rcplanet.com/RPM_Axle_Car...p/rpm73162.htm
Rear Axle Carriers RPM http://www.rcplanet.com/RPM_Axle_Car...p/rpm73162.htm
Series Wire Harness Traxxas http://www.rcplanet.com/Traxxas_Batt..._p/tra3063.htm
Parallel Wire Harness Traxxas http://www.rcplanet.com/Traxxas_Wire..._p/tra3064.htm
Steel Drive Shafts Traxxas http://www.rcplanet.com/Traxxas_Driv...p/tra7151x.htm
Steel Shafts Traxxas http://www.rcplanet.com/ProductDetai...R&click=106800
GTR Shocks Traxxas http://www.rcplanet.com/Traxxas_Shocks_p/tra7061x.htm
Aluminum Toe Links Traxxas http://www.rcplanet.com/Traxxas_Toe_...p/tra7138x.htm
Aluminum Push Rods Traxxas http://www.rcplanet.com/Traxxas_Push_Rod_p/tra7118x.htm
2nd Servo Traxxas http://www.rcplanet.com/Traxxas_VXL_Servo_p/tra2080.htm
Heat Sink Integy http://www.rcplanet.com/Integy_Motor...c23141blue.htm
Titanium Pivot Balls Lunsford http://www.rcplanet.com/Lunsford_Rac..._p/lns7610.htm
SS Screw Replacement RC Screwz http://www.rcplanet.com/RC_Screwz_Sc.../rcztra037.htm
T-Bone TBR http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-N-Z/T...BR-Chassis-Bra
ce-1pc-62027-C402-p455.html

All of these upgrades would run about $335 and would definitely make for a little longer bashing without breakage.

Let me know your thoughts!

**jhsmith87** · 05-23-2012, 10:41 AM

thats pretty good prices on all that stuff.. i like getting stuff from ebay, because you can type in what you want and you get a list of several people who have it, and lots of different prices.. and there is alot of people on there who have hobby stores, and sell all there parts brand new.
and i have found that shipping from stores online are alot slower than most ebay sellers in the usa

**jhsmith87** · 05-23-2012, 10:45 AM

also if you sign up for the bucks program, you get 2% back on everything you order.. i know it aint much but in the past month i gotten $10. you get to spend them every three months. and if your like me after 3 months it really starts to add up

**erx4x4** · 05-23-2012, 11:35 AM

different servo stock one sucks
rpm knuckles suck
stock balls are fine
heat sink doesnt work

all of this is from my experince

**Cipher_Jones** · 05-23-2012, 12:05 PM

I find stock drivetrain is fine unless you upgrade to BB, and even so its easier to replace plastic than steel. Have a look around the forums if you don't believe me. Also, I find the RPM carriers are great, and steel drivetrain voids your warranty on that.

If it was my choice I would keep the stock driveshafts and get a rollcage. And also lose the series connector. 12 cells is too much IMHO.

**krallopian** · 05-23-2012, 12:09 PM

I have run big block since day 2, never upgraded any drivetrain parts, and had zero issues. I DO use punch control though (so it doesn't put 100% power immediately) and I suppose that's the trick. The other biggy is what tires you use, and what terrain you drive on, and if you jump... how you land, etc.. BB or not you can destroy a drivetrain by doing the wrong things.

**sbeardy14** · 05-23-2012, 01:17 PM

Thanks all! Great feedback!

**sbeardy14** · 05-23-2012, 01:18 PM

Krallopian, do you have pictures of your setup?

**MooseSlash** · 05-23-2012, 02:03 PM

Aluminum pivot ball caps, and Aluminum hex hubs.

**slash116vxl** · 05-23-2012, 02:08 PM

I read the thread title and thought "oh no, project impossible"
Good luck, but these minis are fragile.

**CMD-J** · 05-23-2012, 04:39 PM

Originally Posted by sbeardy14

Nice list.

My thoughts:

I would get alloy axle carriers all around. NOT the RPM plastic, at least in the front.
I had RPM, they are not durable enough in the long run. Mine lastet ~10 packs..
Get GPM, GH, Integy or Hot Racing.

Ditch the series connector for now. You'll need better electronics for that.

Be carefull with the Traxxas Steel center drive-shafts TRA7250R. Mine loosing the pins the third time now.
The O-ring thends to pop of, the pin get out and eats into the chassis. Never had this problem with the Integy steel center shaft v2. I would stick with the stock plastic for the start, but seal your center-shaft compartment against dust and debris from the top. That worked wonders for me.

Maybe get a second TRA 2080 stock servo. But only as a spare, until a real servo arrives. Get a metal geared either *******/Bluebird 390DMH or Hi-Tec 85MG.

No exp on the Integy heatsink. I can recommend Align K10175A as a simple fanless sink, you'll want two of them.

Any specific reason for the Lunsford balls? I think the stock steel pivot balls are good enough, skimp on the titaniums.

The rest looks pretty good.

To minimize downtime pile up on some common replacement/spare parts. This is what i have at ALL times in my parts box:
At least one Diff ring/pinion set TRA7079 more is better!!
Slipper clutch assembly TRA 7152 they wear and or burn..
50T and 55T spur gears TRA 7046 and 7047 for the occasional stripped spur
Servo saver assembly TRA 7043 they wear down in dirt conditions
Spare bearings, size 8x12x3.5mm and 4x8x3mm
Battery doors TRA 7026.

Hope that helps.

**50togo** · 05-23-2012, 05:00 PM

Don't forget 7028x steel hollow balls,5124 rocker bearings,associated 21141 to shim the.diffs,80 wt shock.oil ,7147 springs front,7148 rear,50k diff oil.that heat sink looks ok with that fan.

**sbeardy14** · 05-23-2012, 10:49 PM

Thanks CMD-J!! Good stuff!
If I beef up the electronics, any recommendations? I have been looking at Castle motors and ESCs; however, I want a clean look and don't want the ESC hanging over the side on top of the battery tray.

If I did go with a Castle motor, it looks like I wold need the Tenbol motor mount...
http://www.tenbol.com/products.html

Any thoughts or experience with that?

**50togo** · 05-23-2012, 11:00 PM

Ya thanks cmd

**sbeardy14** · 05-24-2012, 02:46 PM

50togo, do you have stock shocks on yours?

**CMD-J** · 05-24-2012, 05:32 PM

First little advice: If you a new to the MERV and car RC stuff, dont go crazy overboard from the start.

I know with all the rockets on the board here and stuff its hard to stay stock. But trust me you can have a lot of fun with a near stock mini for the start. Learn your car and how to drive without flipping all the time.
Experiment a bit with suspensions settings and different diff oils to tune the car to your terrain and driving preferences. Maybe try a Center Diff, see if you like that. Replace parts as they brake. With your planned list you should have a good basic package for that.

Keep in mind, with more power and faster speeds comes more wear and breakage. 3S and up is hard on the parts.

Originally Posted by sbeardy14

Thanks CMD-J!! Good stuff!
If I beef up the electronics, any recommendations? I have been looking at Castle motors and ESCs; however, I want a clean look and don't want the ESC hanging over the side on top of the battery tray.

If I did go with a Castle motor, it looks like I wold need the Tenbol motor mount...
http://www.tenbol.com/products.html

Any thoughts or experience with that?

I have no experience with Castle products. It seems to be a proven route and many run the MERV with the Castle Sidewinderv2/SCT or MambaMaxPro ESC.

What keeps me apart from their ESC is mainly the size and prize. Not to bash the Castles, they are certainly fine escs, but from what i have gathered on the internets you can get good value for your money with some other electronics too.
I have a ******* 60A-SL ESC (I think the original manufacturer is Hobbywing/EZRun?) which is small and light and generally OK to run. And a HK-100A v2 (Quik 100A) which is superb in a MERV but rather big too. I think i paid $35 for the 60A anf $38 for the 100A ex shipping.

You can use the Tenbol mount, the Hot Racing 540 or 550 Motor Conversion Kit part VXS18X01 or the Traxxas parts from the 540 brushed Mini Revo.

I'm still not convinced that a big 540 can sized Motor aka a "Big Block" is a good idea in a MERV. The car is already topheavy, no need to put more weight that high in the car. And you need very good batteries to use these fat motors to their full potential.

**50togo** · 05-24-2012, 07:53 PM

nope exotek,great shocks handles some hard jumps!

**sbeardy14** · 06-01-2012, 03:59 PM

**sbeardy14** · 06-01-2012, 04:21 PM

Last night I tore the whole thing down and RIT dyed all of the grey plastic black. Not too out of the ordinary...

[IMG]feed://sbeardy14.tumblr.com/rss[/IMG]

**Strykeviper** · 06-01-2012, 05:36 PM

To put that much into a merv, I'd just sell and get and ERBE.

I saw someone at my LHS buy parts for his merv, it cost him almost $400 for the parts alone. Manager of the shop told me the guy had like $3000 into his oval racer

Why can't I have the money to put in my trucks

Guess I can't complain too much, my p4de is fairly well upgraded from stock

**50togo** · 06-01-2012, 05:44 PM

Nothing but money!

**sbeardy14** · 06-01-2012, 07:17 PM

Looks great 50togo. I told my brother for a while that I wasn't into the 1/16 scale but after running my e Maxx for a while, the merv can run anywhere and is a blast just in parking lots.

I would be about $600 for upgrades if I pulled the trigger all at once. I got the car for $260. It wouldn't be too bad to be into it for $900. All in good time

**50togo** · 06-01-2012, 09:28 PM

thanks yep upgrades definitely add up . funner to upgrade little at a time so you can see the progress!

**sbeardy14** · 06-02-2012, 12:10 AM

Alright, I'm a forum rookie and don't know how to post pictures. Can you use Tumblr links or do you have to use photobucket? What's the easiest way?

**50togo** · 06-02-2012, 09:29 AM

i use photobucket download a pic in your computer .make a photobucket account hit upload opens up pics on your computer click on one .uploads one at a time,once in your album click on the pic. on your right you will see links click to the right of img code .it copies it ,go to the forum ,to post a pic control/v to paste.and thats it

**JJVeld** · 06-02-2012, 09:34 AM

i use imgur for pics. its really easy because u can just drag and drop pictures onto the website. then when posting u use the icon above. the red one i outlined

**sbeardy14** · 06-02-2012, 10:36 AM

Thanks fellas! I will give it another shot

**sbeardy14** · 06-02-2012, 10:47 AM

Everything dyed black...well almost everything.

**rc driver dude** · 06-02-2012, 11:34 AM

Murdered out! Is that a new truck?

**JJVeld** · 06-02-2012, 12:13 PM

that looks awesome sbeardy!

i personally would put another color in there and have just those two colors. im planning on making mine black and blue eventually.

**sbeardy14** · 06-02-2012, 06:59 PM

Thanks fellas!! I agree completely on another color being needed. I think all the upgrades will eventually add some.
I did go get a heat sink today. Nothing major.

You guys will have to put some pics of yours up!

**50togo** · 06-02-2012, 07:06 PM

Looks great! I have an extra chassis ,I am in the process of dyeing it black now!

**50togo** · 06-02-2012, 07:08 PM

Did you put the paste on the heat sink.helps outs a bit!

**chilidillo** · 06-02-2012, 07:09 PM

The color took so well! Did you use Rit dye?

**50togo** · 06-02-2012, 07:22 PM

That would be correct!

**sbeardy14** · 06-02-2012, 10:21 PM

Ya, I used RIT due for the chassis. I have read that adding a little distilled vinegar helps as well but haven't tries it yet.

I did put the past under the heatsink. I actually put way too much and it oozed out both sides

Have you noticed a difference with your ESC fan?

**50togo** · 06-02-2012, 10:54 PM

i have always ran a fan but recently upgraded to muchmore racing ultra high speed fan .with my 6000kv motor the esc never gets much over 100 degrees so it definitely helps. the heat sink only needs a small bit of paste

**krallopian** · 06-03-2012, 12:10 AM

Yeah thermal paste is only to fill in the microscopic imperfections on the heatsink and application (motor in this case.) Putting too much hurts the performance of the heatsink. You only need a very thin layer, remembering that it will smooth out when putting it on, and after a couple runs - it shouldn't be more than ½ a mm thick!

I love the all-black look, it looks totally awesome.

**sbeardy14** · 06-04-2012, 05:39 PM

Got the always needed RPM A-arms today. Nothing too exciting but will post pics once installed.

**sbeardy14** · 06-04-2012, 11:23 PM

Just got done putting the front and rear RPM A-arms on. I have always been impressed with the simplicity of their installation an the durability they bring to the table!

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