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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
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    Ready to Buy - Advice

    Hello, first post on this forum. I am ready to buy a new ERBE and I wanted to get some advice..

    A little background:

    I have owned a 1/16th brushless revo, I ended up dropping a ton of cash into that by the time I was done and was running a 5700kv CC and almost all new parts. It was a street demon and a ton of fun. I have also had a platinum slash 4x4, a Stampede running a CC 1415 2400kv, all MIP, big-bores, the works. Outside of Traxxas, I have also had several Associated kits and HPI MTs. So I am very well versed in most things RC (also knee deep in Helis, another topic altogether!).

    However, I sold everything when I went through some personal issues.. but now I am ready to get back in the game and ERBE will be my first rig back. Budget is about $1300 to start, and here is what I plan to get after reading these forums for a bit.

    Any feedback? Anything I shouldn't get or I should swap out for something more important? If you were to start from scratch and had the same budget, would you do it different?



    LIPOs: (I may also get a 3s to try out 5s config)

    Last edited by ATLgator; 02-05-2016 at 04:04 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Champion
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    In my opinion I wouldn't worry about the fan, if your geared right heat isn't an issue. And to me, a fan is just a band aid solution to a fixable problem. I don't replace stuff until it breaks because you will end up with too stock parts. I would just buy what you need to get you going now. Unless you live somewhere parts aren't readily available. Just don't spend it.....
    1/10 ERBE
    1/10 Slash 4x4

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post5562646

    humm...^ my truck^


    skip the
    -deans connectors you can buy the correct connectors already on the battery
    -alum push rods = titanium are stronger
    -charger there are other options.
    -motor fan
    -spur - it comes with a 54 spur
    -springs = comes with silver and blue - I would get some 80wt shock fluid
    -pinions = I would get 20 or 21 tooth or start with the supplied 18 and go from there.

    Part Number: RRP8721 <change the last two number for tooth count
    Manufacturer: Robinson Racing
    Hardened .8 mod 21T Pinion Gear with 5mm Bore (32 pitch)

    and

    Ride Height & Suspension Set~Up:
    My Bash set up:
    P2 Rockers 80 wt Shock Fluid, Piston #1 front & #2 rear
    Blue Rear Silver Front, and Traxxas sway bars.
    Push rods set to the inner hole.
    I set the shock preload by pushing the chassis to the ground.
    If the springs fully compress, back off the preload, if not fully compress increase the preload..
    Will also give you a little more ride height

    RPM are a good upgrade, but I get by just fine without them.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  4. #4
    RC Racer
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    Shelter Island, Alaska
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    Skip the alum links. Get lunsfords if you want to upgrade.

    Truck comes with a 54t spur.

    Robinson gears are some of the best imo. They make excellent pinions. Mo.8 and 32p are the same.

    Id also get the castle link usb thingy. Its way easier and more can be adjusted.

    Possibly a different charger. I use a Dynamite Passport Duo 2x10a

    You could also save some $ on the brace and just make your own. I just used a shortened pushrod. Threaded rod also works...

    Looks like a fun truck.
    Need more parts.

  5. #5
    RC Enthusiast
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    Great feedback everybody!

    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post5562646
    skip the
    -deans connectors you can buy the correct connectors already on the battery
    For the Deans, I was going to hack off the "ID" male connectors on the ESC and replace with Deans. Those are just what I am used to from before, and the SPC Lipos come with Deans or old style Traxxas. I like your suspension setup, thanks for the details I will start there and see how I like it.

    Does anybody know what shims are needed for the diffs? I am comfortable working with those (countless rebuilds on mini with the 5700 motor), so I would like to shim them first thing to see if I can make them last a while.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Over the years I have gone tire crazy, meaning I have way to many tires, BUT you need a new / different set of tires. Just because they need to be tape for nothing else.....
    post 311 in the link above
    1) tape the tires
    2) get a good offset on the rims, greatly improves handling, so does the extended A Arms.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  7. #7
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    Yes! Tires.. I really like both of these rims and tires (any combo of the 2 really, I would get them separate and mount them myself). Any experience with either?





    I am hoping the Summit drive shafts will hold up to the heavier tires without going to MIP and putting more stress on the diffs..

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier NoobPlayer03's Avatar
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    LST diffs, I can't stop shredding diffs even on 4s, I have trencher 40 series.
    Aww, SNAP. You crashed into the curb at 100mph.

  9. #9
    RC Champion
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATLgator View Post
    Great feedback everybody!



    For the Deans, I was going to hack off the "ID" male connectors on the ESC and replace with Deans. Those are just what I am used to from before, and the SPC Lipos come with Deans or old style Traxxas. I like your suspension setup, thanks for the details I will start there and see how I like it.

    Does anybody know what shims are needed for the diffs? I am comfortable working with those (countless rebuilds on mini with the 5700 motor), so I would like to shim them first thing to see if I can make them last a while.
    I would go straight with the Traxxas Velocity CVD instead of summit drive shafts. The price difference is not that much anyways.

    As for the traxxas connectors... What issues do you see with using the old style? It makes no difference on the ESC side. Unless you are already using deans elsewhere, I don't see a reason to mess with the ESC to solder deans connectors.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by IllusionX View Post
    As for the traxxas connectors... What issues do you see with using the old style? It makes no difference on the ESC side. Unless you are already using deans elsewhere, I don't see a reason to mess with the ESC to solder deans connectors.
    Ah! None as long as they are compatible The ID style wasn't around last time I had Traxxas RC so I didn't know if you could use the old style with the new style. So scrap the Deans, thanks!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by IllusionX View Post
    I would go straight with the Traxxas Velocity CVD instead of summit drive shafts. The price difference is not that much anyways.
    My concern with those is:
    1. Dude at LHS (I know, hit or miss on advice from LHS) told me to stay away from those because they were too thin / not strong enough? Something to that effect.
    2. I have read on a lot of other threads here and elsewhere that the plastic shafts help to reduce stress on diffs because they flex and also those will break (cheap) before tearing up more expensive driveline components.

    So I considered those.. maybe you have better experience with them?

    I didn't really want to spend the money on LST diffs out of the gate, but if I were to go that route, I would likely also go MIP on drive shafts.

  12. #12
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Surprisingly, I think the advice from the LHS was spot-on.
    Fwiw, there are a few instances of the MIP axles (not driveshafts) snapping.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATLgator View Post
    My concern with those is:
    1. Dude at LHS (I know, hit or miss on advice from LHS) told me to stay away from those because they were too thin / not strong enough? Something to that effect.
    2. I have read on a lot of other threads here and elsewhere that the plastic shafts help to reduce stress on diffs because they flex and also those will break (cheap) before tearing up more expensive driveline components.

    So I considered those.. maybe you have better experience with them?

    I didn't really want to spend the money on LST diffs out of the gate, but if I were to go that route, I would likely also go MIP on drive shafts.
    Traxxas connectors are actually high current connectors and it has more surface than deans.

    You are right. The shafts will give before your diff. Properly shimmed diffs will be strong enough

    I started tearing my stock shafts with only half a lipo pack on, so I went straight with steel CVD since summit shafts would cost m as much.

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
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    I would recommend traxxas e-z peak dual plus charger and it's the same price as what u have listed I love the charger it's very nice

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