It was either the road rage 3.8 or phaltlines..........
Thanks craig, 50, I will probably end up going with the boca yellow seal after these cheap ones get worn.Or maybe before. LOL 10.00-15.00 ea. is about all i would be willing to spend for bearings. They get pricey for the good ones. But like i have said you ussally get what you pay for. I like the roadrage. The new set of road rage i have on there i havent had a chance to try yet. The first set i had on the proline cheyenne beadlocks taped and balanced got tore up pretty good after only a couple runs. short 6s full throttle runs, sliding it around on the pavment ect. and a run away and crash that im shore didnt help. Dont know just how fast i got it going,i would guess around 50. Had no telemetry at the time. The sidewalls were tearing through in a bunch of spots probably from sliding it sideways. Might have to put them back on and finish them off. LOL The new ones i put together on the wider comando wheels with much better firmer foams should hold up better. You can see the difference in the pics,there even a little bigger dia. I also didnt tape these ones,it seemed to warp them. I got some o-rings for them
instead. Last night i was playing around with it. put a couple 2cells in it to check alignment with new knuckles. Full throttle on the work stand,63 mph acording to the telemetry. Dont seem right for 4s but maybe because it was on the stand. I dont think i would try that with 6s though. LOL
Probably not good to do that without a load!
I take it that was without tires! Free rev is much higher then under load so that wont show much but could do some damage. I do no more then part throttle if any
LOL with tires, only a couple two second bursts. Wanted to see how much the tires would balloon. Its really no different then a wheelie at 40-50 mph at least for the front tires. They didnt baloon bad at all, but a little. So some orings would work good i think. especially for 5-6s Im going to get another 2 cell to match one of my 3 cell and try 5 cell like i hear a lot of you guys doing. Sounds like a good idea.
That's good!
I have heard of fishing line but not o rings. Let us know how it works
5 cell is a good balance of power
I see someone on here put orings on the wide trencher x to keep them from baloonong. They fit nice on them. I got some smaller ones for the road rage that fit right into the two center grooves.
Ive been itching to try these and see if the orings stay on them. There canyons,didnt like the softness and sloshyness so i trimmed the sides of the center tread and scrunched them dowm a bit with some orings. should be interesting. Too bad my driveway is all mud and puddles and the snow is wet and soft. And im afraid of cooking the esc. I might have to get one of those outerwares for this one. Heres a few pics and my first real rc. LOL
![]()
This morning the snow was crusted up so i wrapped a shop rag around the esc and took it out for a run. 4s - still has the stock 17-68 gears. What a blast. The snow was froze up Enough for traction to wheelie across the yard and still slide around w/out digging in and flipping. The orings stayed on quite well. One of the front ones eventually came partially off at the end of the run. The center tread baloons open more when you punch it. Looks funny. Im not shore but i think all the oil has leaked out of the shocks. LOL Was getting some good air launching it off some snowbanks. Happy to report no damage other than the little plastic ties on the rear side of the cage that usally break away when it lands on the roof.
Wow, never thought i would get over 10,000 views on this thing. Thanks everyone. Looks like i will be beefing up my basher with some 1/8th scale stuff next. When it breaks. Snowing like crazy outside so no playing today. Had so much fun yesterday im going to have to get an outerware. Snowbanks make great jumps.
Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 02-24-2013 at 07:17 AM.
Well when updates of stuff come and upgrades people see what your doing and get ideas I know I do from all over the place like the 1/8 diffs, benefits of rpm true track and what not. Haven't tried snow yet maybe when I move I might get some at least be closer to it that's for sure. Watch that water get the outerwears cover on there.
Living life.
I dont know if i should start another build thread for my basher called project somthing? or just incorparate it into this one?
Well, I had so much fun building those 1/8th diffs i decided to build another set for my basher. But i can already see there going to end up in my roadmaxx. These are going to be just about as bulletproof as they get. Flm hybrid bulks, alum diff cups from innovative rc (lightening series, these are nice) HB hardened diff gears, GH racing alum bulk braces, custom made stainless steel tie bars, and I made my own 62-64"c" hardened steel hindge pins to fit with collars or washers and double e-clips. I will also be using ceramic bearings on these. The diff fits together nice w/out having to grind any sun gears. but if history repeats itself i will probably have to grind the side of the ring gear a little to fit the flm hybrid bulk. Havent got that far yet. I've Been way to busy with work and not enough time to play with my toys. LOL But sunday i did get a little time to work on these diffs. Heres a few pics.
![]()
Looks like fun!
If you need a boca 15% code. Pm me
Thanks 50, Im not ready to buy the bearings just yet. Too many other bills and taxes to pay right now.but 15% sounds good. witch boca ones would you recomend without breaking the bank. LOL I know avid has ceramic bearings but for 5.00 ea. there probably not as good as boca. Might as well put some good ones in there since there going to end up in my roadmaxx run on 6s. Im going to swap the whole hybrid set up and put the first ones i built with the HR cups in my basher after the stock ones go again. Im not real impressed with some of the HR parts. The 2-pc diff cups i used were a pain in the butt to get to run true and the double clutch backplate doesnt fit the wear plate very good at all,im going to use the stock backplate with the 6 shoe hr front part when i get to it. The innovative rc diff cups are nice, come from the UK made from 6082 high strength alum and clear annodized hard surface and fit 8x16mm bearing. and being 1-pc they should run nice and true.
i run the yellow seals because they don't need maintenance and hold up pretty good but yep not cheap!
those cups sounds nice!
What did you use for retaining rings for the CVD boots?
I've got 2 set's of the LST2/XXL CVD's sitting on my bench waiting to be modded.
Great idea using linkage stop collars on the hinge pins.
Last edited by Wildman4910; 03-05-2013 at 10:04 PM.
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
Yellow seals, thanks 50,
wildman, I couldnt find anything that would work so i made the retaining rings out of some .093 thick metric washers with 15mm hole. Had to grind a corner out of them to have spacer to hold bearing and a lip to hold boot. Requires some grinding equipment and It was a bit of work to do.
The collars worked out good but they will only fit on some of the pins where there is room.
Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 03-06-2013 at 07:34 AM.
Got a little more work done on these diffs. Got them both mocked up. The rear fit with just a few shims on the cup side and ..037 shim on the pinion. The front required grinding .004-.005 of the side of the ring gear to fit. Waiting for some boca ceramic bearings to finish. Also ordered some more 1/8 hss blanks to make all the hindge pins to fit.
Where are you ordering the blanks from for the hindge pins?
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
Wildman, Thought i answered this the other day. lol Cenco grinding corp. Thats where i get all my hss blanks for my shop. They have good blanks and good prices but shipping is like 20.00.
I know it's a little late but here's what I found about the ABEC rating.
ABEC stands for Annular Bearing Engineers' Committee. This committee works to determine the standards for bearings for the Anti-Friction Bearing Manufacturers Association (AFBMA).
ABEC Ratings
ABEC1
ABEC3
ABEC5
ABEC7
ABEC9
This number classifies the precision of a bearing when manufactured. Abec1 is considered the lowest rating, and abec9 as the highest. An abec9 bearing will be ground or polished to a higher tolerance and in turn may be faster and last longer. A very precise bearing will have reduced friction, friction causes heat, and heat ultimately will cause bearings to fail.
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
I was checking out the tolerances on the abec rating chart. Good info.I got the boca yellow seals. abec 5 i think. 10.00 ea. good enough for me. LOL Got the inner diffs all loctited together and shimmed to the bulks. The hpi hardened diff gears fit the cups nice. Used an hpi .008 thick washer behind the sun gears and the blue hpi gasket + (1) .005 paper gasket behind it on both of them. I ended up having to grind a couple more thousands of the front ring gear to get it to mesh good with no play. Waiting for some grease and 1/8" drill blanks i ordered to finish them up.
The Abec rating does make a difference. I know from my skate boarding/ roller blade days. It was very noticeable from changing the Abec 1 out to 5. Faster and smoother like stated
Got a little more work done on my maxx today. I found a couple pcs of 1/8 drill rod in my tool box just long enough for the front lower pins. (still waiting for some more to make the uppers and a few spares just in case) Not much room in the back so i atempted to dress a grinding wheel down to .020 wide for one eclip and clear the servo arms. I managed to do it but not much left of wheel as it starting flying apart. It still worked good and did the job. LOL Got a perfect .020 wide slot in them .015 deep.
Heres what was left of wheel.
heres a pic of pin groove on my comparator blown up 10x. Kinda hard to see
Also ground some little flats for the collars and grub screws.
![]()
Nice solution you got there. I just fill the "gaps" using the stock castor spacers to stop the hinge pins sliding back or forward.
Always get a 2nd Opinion!
Love the tips mate.
Rock n Rolla !
Thanks guys, I thought i would do somthing a little different with the hindge pins. and since you cant buy them to fit with the cross bars, i made my own. A little bit of work so i hope the hardened and ground drill blanks was a good choice of material to use. There straighter than an arrow and slide in and out much easier than the flm ones i had in there that were not exactly straight to begin with. One good crash will tell how they hold up. LOL But i dont want to find out that way.
So i decided to ditch the vg cage and lighten it up a bit. Since the cage was the holding point for my colapsable blower extension i had to come up with another way to hold it in place. I made a couple "patraeus" style shock tower braces out of some alum tubing and epoxied some little threaded steel thingys i modded to fit in the ends. Then i needed somthing to go across them to hold the extension. After sitting and staring at it for about a half hour trying to figure out how to make somthing to hold it the light came on. I reached in my parts draw and pulled out a rpm rear body post cross bar. Since i mounted the braces to the body posts just above the towers it was the right width and as luck would have it the holes in it were a nice snug fit to the braces and the center part of it that i cut down to get the height was the same width as the bracket on the extension.I couldnt have been happier. Then i figure why not use the front body post cross support as a cross support for the braces behind the motor. LOL Heres a few pics.
![]()
Great find!
That will lighten the load a bit!
Should be good for a pound or so. Since the blower belts dont hold up to 6s i have an idea. Im going to eventually modify it. Thinking of putting an electric fan inside the blower housing. Kinda like a hybrid air scoop. LOL Still have the cool look but no belts to break and a little bit of ram air to feed the fan. Have to find a good fan that will fit.
How do you guys running cooling fans on your motors have them hooked up? I know you can plug them into the rx.
Do i need to use an external bec for enough power to run it without starving the rest of the electronics?
Anybody using the bigger hobbywing heatsink fans,how do you power it?
Nice mod there. Sometimes things fall into place nicely. Other times not so much, but that is part of the fun. Got some issues currently requiring resolution on my street build. Hope to have them sorted soon.
Always get a 2nd Opinion!
I bought this body from ebay about 6 weeks ago. never showed up, got lost,seller said he would send another,cool.then he sends refund? said he had to go out of state and that was easier,still wanted it, emailed him still interested,cool still has it 20.00 total w/shipping. so after all this time and about 10 emails i got it. Went to put it on the truck to see how it looked and realized its the shorter body for older trucks. At first i was bummed out, but after looking at it a bit i suddenly realized i like the look of the shorter body better. and love the black and blue color and graphics. So i popped a couple more holes in the back and one in the hood/windshield for the blower and here it is. Think i got a little too much goin on on the other body. Going to keep this one simple. Didnt come with any decals so i used a couple traxxas grill decals for the front. Also stuck some customized proline centercaps on it to see how they look.Heres a couple pics. Even though its not the right body for the truck and the bumpers stick out a little,not too bad in the front. I like this one more. what do you think?
Oh ya, i forgot to mention it now weighs just over 14-1/2 pounds with two 3 cell batterys on board. Not bad. with the vg cage and other modded body it was 16+
I think these shorter bodys would be good for bashers too since the back end seems to be the first thing that gets beat up.
Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 03-24-2013 at 08:32 AM.
Don't look bad at all, love the color combination on the lid & $20.00 shipped is a steal!
Look out for the tree/crunch!
LiPo? Naw NITRO!!
Thanks wildman, he had two more,one red and one silver. same price. from rc-parts on ebay.
Looking good mate...enjoying your build thread.
Rock n Rolla !
Thanks mate, it never seems to end. Always finding somthing to mod or upgrade or change.
I know what you're talking about...I was like that with me eRevo for a while but now that I only bash offroad I have found my ideal settings. Keep up the good work mate.
Rock n Rolla !
Been having a lot of fun modifying my ice amps blower to electric power. Started by getting a couple different little 30mm fans that i thought i might put right inside it. After some testing holding them 1" over a little digatal scale i found these little fans just dont get it done. Although the muchmore mru30 ultru high speed fan has a little more kick than the castle blower fan and probably a decent upgrade for the esc it just dont have the volume i needed. Waiting for one from yeah racing too. I will test that one against the muchmore when i get it. One of them will probably go in my esc. The 2" hobbywing fan blows a lot more air so that is what i incorporated into the blower. Searched for other maybe better 2" fans but not much out there that run around 6 volts. Heres a couple pics so far.
Like the old saying goes, theres no substitute for cubic inchs.
I must admit the castle blower is a cute little thing with its 3/16" x 1/2" scoop. LOL And no offence to all of you that run them,they do work a little. You can upgrade the 30 mm fan to a better high speed one for a little more kick.
But in stock form i think it might be better suited as a ceiling fan for a small family of ants.
![]()