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  1. #1
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    Question To lengthen or not to lengthen. That is the question.

    I'm building a chassis and can't decide whether to make it longer than stock or the same as stock. I'll be using it almost only on-road just for bashing and speed runs. I think it would help keep the front down on speed runs and hard acceleration, but it wouldn't handle as good with a longer wheelbase. I never run a body, so don't worry about that. What would you do?

  2. #2
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    WHY dont u run a body on speed runs? sigh.... anyway,why not lengthen and widen? Doing Both of those should give u good turning and a less wheelie prone car. And get a body dude. Erevo slip stream from proline or something. How much are u gonna lengthen it. I f u got cash( sounds like it) go for the flm 1/8 rustler conversion. SOLID performer for speed runs but honeslty not necessary. You need to learn to control your car but if u want to go ahead.

  3. #3
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    What makes you think I can't control my car? Anyway... I don't run a body because I'm pretty much too lazy to put it on, it looks better without it, electronics stay cooler, and I'm not all that concerned about top speed. I've only used a body once recently, for a speed run, and the speed difference between body and no body was pretty much non existent. I suppose it would put some downforce on the nose, so maybe I should start running one... and what makes you think I have money? I'm making a chassis because I'm too broke to buy one lol

  4. #4
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    If u flip your car going fast enough you can damage the motor wires and esc wires. But i figures u didn't care. SO i assumed you had alot of money. I also thought u cant control your car because all it takes is some trigger control to keep the nose down and if your electronics are getting so hot where u need to take off the body you need to change gearing.

    Lets get some details to clear the air. What are u running( esc motor) where are u running and how fast is your rustler?

    If u speed run and bash depending on how fast you wanna go why not just turn it into a lcg slash. Just a thought.

  5. #5
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    well youre saying you want to do on-road and off-road correct?? if so i would leave the thing stock
    Rustler...the greatest rc truck of them all

  6. #6
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    I'm running the VXL-3s system. It tops out at around 40mph on Nimh. The gearing is 83-28, not that big imo. I don't NEED to run with no body to keep it cool, but it stays cooler which is better for the electronics. I was going to upgrade to some kind of Castle system and that would put me close to 70mph if not over, and at those speeds, the car gets air under it and just flips whether you're good with the throttle or not. I would turn it into a slash because IMO they handle way better... but then I couldn't post in the Rusty forums! Tyrustler99, 95% of the time i'll be on-road. I may occasionally take it somewhere with my Slash 4x4 and run them off-road together, but I'd be just doing some light bashing. No serious jumps or crawling or anything like that. My buddy also has a 4x4 pede so if I ever ran with him, I'd inevitably end up running through some dirt.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xmoto_16 View Post
    If u flip your car going fast enough you can damage the motor wires and esc wires. But i figures u didn't care. SO i assumed you had alot of money. I also thought u cant control your car because all it takes is some trigger control to keep the nose down and if your electronics are getting so hot where u need to take off the body you need to change gearing.

    Really? Perhaps instead of trying to insult the guy, on top of spreading bad info, you should just sit back and read for awhile. Maybe hide your keyboard in case you're tempted to do this again.

  8. #8
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    I lengthened and widened mine. It's almost impossible to wheelie now. Although, with the longer and wider stance when you do cartwheels and generally crash its much harder on the truck. There's a bit more mass behind it. Like the other day I did a single cartwheel at a very low speed in the grass and normally my truck would have been fine, but with the added length, width, bigger tires, and weight the caster and bearing carrier snapped.

  9. #9
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    Good point dakk. I think I'll stick with the stock dimensions. Maybe in the future I'll do a carbon fiber build for strictly speed runs, and I would lengthen that one. One question though... how do you widen it if the a-arms attach to the bulkhead and gear case? Longer a-arms?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    Really? Perhaps instead of trying to insult the guy, on top of spreading bad info, you should just sit back and read for awhile. Maybe hide your keyboard in case you're tempted to do this again.
    Are u kidding!? You are saying everything i said is bad info. I dont care how many post you have what your saying is complete foolishness.

    Traxxas Tuesdays go buy a temp gun and a body. Save yourself some time,trouble and cash and leave the car alone. Dont do anything to it. The stock car is fine for what your doing, you would just be wasting cash on things you can go without. Leave the vxl in it.

    BTW Throw the nimhs away. Its time to be a big boy when you go brushless, go lipo aswell. You wont be sorry.
    Last edited by Xmoto_16; 08-03-2012 at 01:27 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xmoto_16 View Post
    Are u kidding!? You are saying everything i said is bad info. I dont care how many post you have what your saying is complete foolishness.

    Traxxas Tuesdays go buy a temp gun and a body. Save yourself some time,trouble and cash and leave the car alone. Dont do anything to it. The stock car is fine for what your doing, you would just be wasting cash on things you can go without. Leave the vxl in it.

    BTW Throw the nimhs away. Its time to be a big boy when you go brushless, go lipo aswell. You wont be sorry.
    You're making a bad impression. Unplug your computer before you dig this hole any deeper. Oh... and stop pretending like you're mister know-it-all. I DO have a temp gun (a very nice, expensive one) and my temps are fine with or without the body. It stays cooler longer with no body... hence why I run no body. Leaving the car alone isn't an option for me. I don't want to be like everyone else with their stock plastic chassis when I have the tools and know-how to make my own aluminum one. The stock car is NOT fine for what I'm doing because I want to go faster than 40mph. About the batteries, I've explained on other threads ("motor questions") why I don't run lipo, although I'm considering getting one. This thread was started to ask whether I should lengthen my chassis or not. I ddn't ask whether I should run a body, switch to lipo, get a temp gun, leave the stock motor in it, or any other question. Lengthen or not to lengthen... that is (and always will be... on this thread anyway) the question.

  12. #12
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    Just wanted to clear something out.... not trying to insult you or assume anything but when you say a castle system for 70mph do you mean on your current NiMH? If so you might have the wrong idea. You won't get more than 50mph out of NiMH unless you go to 8 or 9 cells or use at least 7 REALLY good quality cells (EnerG 4600). If you are looking for near or less than 70mph you don't need to upgrade from a VXL system, but LiPo is really the ticket to getting that fast. I'll probably look stupid if you already knew this but I just wanted to clear things up in case you wanted to buy a castle system thinking it would get you near 70 on nimh. Again not trying to criticize you

  13. #13
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    Yeah... I was going to go to 2s lipo and get a high KV motor.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    Guys keep your posts constructive, helpful, and civil. Any more harsh insulting posts and this thread will disappear

    Lengthening your chasis will make the truck more stable and make it less prone to wheelie. It will slow the handling down and it wont be as nimble in the corners. I will not effect the top speed though, it will make it easier to accelerate without any drama due to it being more stable.

    If you chose to run without a body that is your choice but I have to agree IMO I think it is a mistake. A body is a cheap form of protection for some expensive equipment.
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  15. #15
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    With metal shock towers, what are you going to break though? Maybe I'll take everyones advice and start running a body. That means I need to put body mounts on though

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by TraxxasTuesdays View Post
    With metal shock towers, what are you going to break though? Maybe I'll take everyones advice and start running a body. That means I need to put body mounts on though
    Pavement will grind down aluminum towers and ruin the shocks. Wires from the ESC and motor are likely to get damaged as well. Really anything that sits in the chassis that would be under the body are subject to damage if the body is not on.
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  17. #17
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    I suppose you're right. Don't want to take this thread off topic but would you reccomend a bandit body? I like the looks better, they fit the chassis better, and I've heard they are better at speed.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TraxxasTuesdays View Post
    I suppose you're right. Don't want to take this thread off topic but would you reccomend a bandit body? I like the looks better, they fit the chassis better, and I've heard they are better at speed.
    If you decide to lengthen the chassis the Rustler or Bandit body wont fit or at least not very well. I am not to sure what is available in the Buggy body market so cant really recommend anything. If you are talking nimh packs or 2s lipo you really wont notice much if any difference in speed with any given body.
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  19. #19
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    Why not buy a roll cage and run it like that? I run my old Pede that way and it protects everything like a body does... With the exception of maybe flipping and something poke into it like a stick. But I have had zero problems running that way for a couple years now.

    As for motor upgrades, I have a Viper copperhead 4500 system and I'm certain I could do 70mph on 3s.

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  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    Guys keep your posts constructive, helpful, and civil. Any more harsh insulting posts and this thread will disappear
    Sorry for causing a scene, but I still stand behind my initial statement and will let it go in just a brief moment.


    Quote Originally Posted by Xmoto_16 View Post
    Are u kidding!? You are saying everything i said is bad info. I dont care how many post you have what your saying is complete foolishness.

    Traxxas Tuesdays go buy a temp gun and a body. Save yourself some time,trouble and cash and leave the car alone. Dont do anything to it. The stock car is fine for what your doing, you would just be wasting cash on things you can go without. Leave the vxl in it.

    BTW Throw the nimhs away. Its time to be a big boy when you go brushless, go lipo aswell. You wont be sorry.

    I don't really care what my post count is either. Matter of fact, I have no idea what it is, but the simple fact remains. You are insulting the guy when, in fact, your own post shows your ignorance.

    I'm no speed run expert and I have no problem admitting to that. I do 90% of my running on a closed course. Yet I do know enough about speed runs to safely say that there's much more to it than throttle control. I know that the last time I attempted to go fast in a straight line, there were issues with aerodynamics that caused my truck to flip over backward in the 50m.p.h. range. Truck was already at full steam and wasn't producing much torque nor gaining much speed. It was due to air getting under the body and/or chassis and lifting the truck. Will a longer chassis help? Possibly, but I don't really have the ambition to find out. It surely can't hurt if that's the main intention of the vehicle.


    And I also know that regardless of gearing, many of these high-voltage setups that guys are using on the street will cause heat issues, regardless of gearing. You might as well tell everyone running a fan, heat sink, or aluminum trans that there's no need for any of them if they just gear it better.


    With all that said, I still stand behind my initial statement. You are coming off with an attitude towards the OP when you have obviously been mis-lead somewhere along the lines. Am I foolish? Well, that's debate-able, but I'm not the one who's making it so obvious.

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    So anyway, I think people new to the forum get a little uncivil sometimes and start arguing like they're on a different forum. We don't do that on this forum. So to the OP, sorry for all the loud talk. PM me if you have any detailed questions and I'll be happy to help.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    If you are talking nimh packs or 2s lipo you really wont notice much if any difference in speed with any given body.
    Not in reference to speed, but in reference to downforce. I've heard Bandits are better.

  23. #23
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    To answer the original question. Dont lengthen. Waste of material.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by TraxxasTuesdays View Post
    Not in reference to speed, but in reference to downforce. I've heard Bandits are better.
    It would make sense. The Bandit body hugs the chassis much tighter than the Rustler or pretty much any truck body. I don't know how much more downforce it would give, but it will definitely eliminate most of the lift from air getting under the body, like with a truck.

    Have you decided what material you want to use for the chassis yet? IIRC, it sounded like you were leaning towards aluminum. If you decide on the g-10 or a similar composite, I know where you can get nice sized sheets. The stuff that most hobby shops sell is in 15" lengths. Not sure how long you're looking for, but 15" isn't gonna give you much over stock.

  25. #25
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    I was going to go aluminum just because I have some scrap 1/4" 6061 aluminum laying here and I thought it would be fun to make a chassis out of it. Looking at some of the aftermarket chassis made out of carbon fiber makes me want to make it out of carbon though.

  26. #26
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    I'm all for seeing you're extension. I may extend my Rusty but I'm more of a buy parts and bolt them on kinda guy, so I'd like to see your fab work. If you go with a slash length for the rusty, the electric revo proline slipstream body fits pretty well.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Wow! 1/4" aluminum would make for one serious chassis! I think most 1/8th buggy and truggy chassis' are 3mm, maybe 4mm at best. It would probably be nice for a high speed/ street setup though. Shouldn't have to add too much additional weight to the truck between the thick aluminum and long wheelbase.

    Carbon fiber is really nice too. I always went with g-10 because it's quite a bit cheaper and if I'm not mistaken, has more "give" than c/f. Basically a little more forgiving during impact. Don't quote me on that because I may have that totally backwards, but I'm pretty sure I got it right.

    One plus side to aluminum is that you can bend the sides of the chassis length with a brake, which will tighten it up and you won't have to worry too much about the upper chassis. With g-10 or c/f, you will want the upper chassis to run the whole length from front to rear bulk to make it rigid because without, the lower chassis will flex like a wet noodle.

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