MITCH316 ERBE rebuild

[MITCH316]

don't think I have ever seen anybody use the Losi drive shaft.... to long IDB........

Hey mate...not sure but I think these guys are you the Losi shafts with a LST2 diff...I don't know; I could be wrong.

[MITCH316]

Hey mate...not sure but I think these guys are you the Losi shafts with a LST2 diff...I don't know; I could be wrong.

My spelling is atrocious I meant to say "these guys are using the Losi shafts"...

[MITCH316]

I've read a few times on here about people complaining about beadlock rims and the tyre pulling out from lipo power. I found the easy solution to deal with this is to use CA glue to glue the tyre to the face plate.



I have found that in my experience it is only necessary to glue the face plate side of the rim, as this is the side that the tyre pulls out of the beadlock from lipo power.

My method...I back the screws off 4 to 5 turns; basically enough to be able to get the glue in behind the face plate and then proceed to glue in between the space of each screw. Once this is done I then refasten the face plate into position.

When the time comes for a tyre change I am able to re-use the rim. I will remove the glue with a bit of acetone or CA debonder.

Since I have been using this method I have never had an issue with my tyre pulling out of the beadlock on 6s power and would recommend this method to anyone who has beadlock rims .

[Mugs]

Congrats on the 5,000 views. All of that without any wishy washy posts about waiting for arbitrary parts and what colour you plan to paint your body.

[MITCH316]

Congrats on the 5,000 views. All of that without any wishy washy posts about waiting for arbitrary parts and what colour you plan to paint your body.

(Over 5000 views) Cheers mate ...I got some pics of my truck I am going to post up soon; if you get a chance check it out.

[MITCH316]

My build has been complete for the last 2 weeks...so far the LST2 diff has proven well and IMO the conversion was really worth it.



And here with my bashing body

[humayrayakongkinaon]

nice looking rig mate. what body is the 2nd pic?

[MITCH316]

nice looking rig mate. what body is the 2nd pic?

Thanks mate.... That is the Rj Speed Stinger-R body. Its a tight fit but I got it to work. I've got some more pics coming later today .

[IvVaum]

love that stinger-r body...just letting u know that i'm envious of that body....and will probably order one...but don't say i copied you ok...cos ummm...ok...maybe u can say that cos...ummm....yeah...i'm copying u...

[MITCH316]

love that stinger-r body...just letting u know that i'm envious of that body....and will probably order one...but don't say i copied you ok...cos ummm...ok...maybe u can say that cos...ummm....yeah...i'm copying u...

Thanks mate ...that's what the thread is here for, information. Feel free to copy; I am glad you are finding the information useful .

[crashproff]

oh i see...gotcha...thanks for the explanation...

so...another question...u can use the Losi CVDs?...from the LST2?...are they the same length? or is that yet another mod?...and the stub axel...they fit perfect?

well you can used the 142 mm dogbone from hpi part No:86054
and
HPI 86277 HD Cup Joint
also for the front dogbone
HPI Racing 86233 Dogbone
i'm using this setup as the losi drive shaft coupler mod didn't work the pin came out and destroyed my bulkhead 4 times.
or just buy a kershaw designs dogbone kit.

[MITCH316]

well you can used the 142 mm dogbone from hpi part No:86054
and
HPI 86277 HD Cup Joint
also for the front dogbone
HPI Racing 86233 Dogbone
i'm using this setup as the losi drive shaft coupler mod didn't work the pin came out and destroyed my bulkhead 4 times.
or just buy a kershaw designs dogbone kit.

Sweet...thanks for that useful bit of info mate. How your Losi diffs holding up?

[crashproff]

Really well actually i love them, haven't had a problem since feels kinda weird. i ran 6s and 5s about 10 times.

[MITCH316]

Really well actually i love them, haven't had a problem since feels kinda weird. i ran 6s and 5s about 10 times.

That's awesome mate...good to hear its worked out well .

[MITCH316]

And here with my bashing body

[MITCH316]

And here with my bashing body

[MITCH316]

This is posted here for information for the battery tray dimensions.

87 GN gives a nice clear and concise description of batteries that are a direct fit and ones that require slight mods to fit.

Click on the image below to see post

[MITCH316]

I can't remember where I found this...but I thought it had some good info and was worth while to repost.

This will give you a guesstimate of speeds you could expect from your truck with stock tyres.

[stressbasher]

Can you really get a 30T pinion gear?? if I put that on with a 54T spur gear, what would happen? over heat immediately??

[MITCH316]

I've never actually looked for one mate, a quick search on the net and this is what I found...Robinson Racing sell up to a 25 tooth pinion. Hot Racing sell a 27 tooth. Kershaw designs sell as large as a 31 pinion.

I'm not sure what would happen to your truck...True speeds are probably a few mph less than shown as whole lot of other factors come into play when running larger pinions such as tyres, suspension etc.

Biggest pinion I have run is a 21 tooth pinion with 54 gearing and it was plenty fast for me.

Most guys on here run between a 18 and 24 pinion. I thought the pic was good info as quick guesstimate of what you could expect as not everyone knows how to use BrianG speed chart.

Thanks to 87 GN for the info he provides on the eRevo brushless forum...

A temp gun is kind of a must have.....

Hot motor + cool esc = under geared.
Cool motor + hot esc = over geared
Everything warm just right..

Motor ~ 180/190*F (82/88*C) maximum, ideally 140/160*F (60/71*C), temps can be 10*F higher inside the motor
ESC ~ pretty much same temps / Fan comes on @ 150*F (65*C)
Lipo's ~ 140*F (60*C) max, ideally 100/120*F (38/49*C).........

4s = 40 mph
5s = 50 mph
6s = 60 mph

change the motor Kv, cell count, spur & pinion count, & tire size.

Diff ratio Traxxas

Import this:

Differential Ratio: 2.8461538461538463
Transmission Ratio: 1.8333333333333333
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 54
Pinion Tooth Count: 21
Total Voltage: 22.20
Motor KV: 2200
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.9
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0.006
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3 : 1
Total Ratio: 15.65385 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 18.54 inches (470.8 mm)
Rollout: 1.18:1
Total Motor Speed: 48840 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 54.76 mph (87.97 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 2200
KT constant: 0.61 oz-in/A

Diff ratio LST2

Import this:

Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 1.8333333333333333
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 68
Pinion Tooth Count: 24
Total Voltage: 22.2
Motor KV: 1800
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.9
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0.006
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.83 : 1
Total Ratio: 17.18162 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 18.54 inches (470.8 mm)
Rollout: 1.08:1
Total Motor Speed: 39960 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 40.82 mph (65.57 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 1800
KT constant: 0.75 oz-in/A

[MITCH316]

I believe this is a must have when you start running Lipos in your truck. It allows you to customise your ESC settings.

Here is a link to the CASTLE LINK GUIDE.

The Castle Link and Field Link Programmer do the exact same thing when plugged into your PC as they use the same software programme...the only difference is the field programmer lets you adjust some settings on the fly...eg. if you were out bashing you could access your Brake strength and Punch control; this is very easily done with the the CC Filed link programmer.

This is what the CC Filed link programmer looks like.


And here ESC connected and ready to change settings through my PC.



I use to change settings on the fly in the beginning when first using the CC Filed link programmer while out bashing my truck; but have since then created a few different profile settings that I upload to my ESC. This is done before most bashing sessions as it only takes a few minutes...the settings are changed depending on my mood, gearing and what I plan on doing with my truck.

My settings I use were all trial and error...I have tried a lot of mixing and matching to find the settings that suit me best.

The Castle link is very handy for toning down 6s to take the edge off so the truck is more controllable under heavy acceleration. Generally if I run 4s I disable my punch control but leave all other settings in place. It's not too often I run 4s in my eRevo as I like the power of 6s .

[Ghostbuster]

Nice! Yeah I love the castle link. I really like the low voltage cut off feature, so I wont kill my batteries... but I have never ran it enough for it to reach the cut off level. I wonder if the rc just cuts off, what do you think?

[MITCH316]

don't think I have ever seen anybody use the Losi drive shaft.... to long IDB........

Hey mate...not sure but I think these guys are you the Losi shafts with a LST2 diff...I don't know; I could be wrong.

My spelling is atrocious I meant to say "these guys are using the Losi shafts"...

My apologies mate...I thought I had posted the link. I have been very absent minded lately; I am under a lot of pressure at work and with my family at the moment.

Here is the link; I think these guys are using the Losi shafts with the LST2 diff...I'm not 100% certain thou .

[MITCH316]

Nice! Yeah I love the castle link. I really like the low voltage cut off feature, so I wont kill my batteries... but I have never ran it enough for it to reach the cut off level. I wonder if the rc just cuts off, what do you think?

Hey mate...I usually give my truck horns while out dirt bashing; and full throttle a lot of time. I can usually feel when the batteries are about to die. The truck becomes sluggish...a few times the truck has been a good few hundred meters away when this has happened and I have tried to bring it back to me under slow acceleration. It just cuts out and stops dead...when this happens I don't try drive it again...I just walk over and pick it up.

I have my LVC set to 3.4V

[MITCH316]

When I did the LST2 diff mod I wasn't sure what to expect...I had read all the hype about the mod; but I am a bloke that believes seeing is believing. The first week I tested this diff and put it through its paces.

These were the settings used but found during the first 2 tests that my truck was toned down too much for my liking. I ran 19/62 gearing on these settings as it was the first time I had also tested out a 19 pinion as these tests were performed with 2/3s (6s) batteries. I have changed my settings a couple times since then.











For those unfamiliar with the CC Field Link Programmer I hope this gives you the general idea of changing your settings. As I said in post #141 a lot of the settings I have tried have been trial and error.

You would need to try different settings and see what they do for your truck and how you could adjust them to suit your driving needs .

[MITCH316]

I only have video footage of Saturday 22/09/2012 which is what I called test 1. Test 2 was at a different location but was performed on a grass field behind my house.

These videos I am going to post is me purely testing all the upgrades I put on my truck...especially the LST2 diff.

Basically test 1 & 2 were almost the same. Each test consisted of 1 2/3s (6s) battery run of heavy acceleration & braking as I wanted to see if this diff would strip under these conditions. Test were performed on the road and grass.

Road tests were performed with my road rages tyres and grass tests with the GT2's. All footage was shot with my phone.

At the end of the video I show you the race temp strip so you can get an idea of temps reached with 19/62 gearing. The only time the truck had a rest was when I swopped the tyres around as I was also wanting to test what impact the 19 pinion had with motor temps.

Esc settings for both tests were as in the above post.

[Novarider]

Thanks to MUGS for showing me this...this is the racetemp stick on temp gauge.



This is a quick, easy and efficient way for monitoring motor temps without a temp gun and is accurate within a few degrees of actual temperature. It has a very good sticky adhesive which has stuck well to my motor so far.

This is how I stuck mine on.



How to read:
Green indicates actual temperature.

As rated temperature is reached, indicator changes from black to:

*Green bar indicates actual temperature reading.
*Brown bar indicates temperature reading just above actual reading.
*Blue bar indicates temperature reading just below actual reading.

I find that the temp gauge works extremely well and unit measurements are in °C and °F. The °C only become visible when the bar is colour coded.

Where did you order these from? I went to their website and it says to email them for the lower temperature range stickers. I emailed them but have not heard back from them yet. I was just curious if you got them from someone else?

[Deisel]

That road looks so familiar! Also, where is all the traffic, that lack of traffic was amazing!

[MITCH316]

Where did you order these from? I went to their website and it says to email them for the lower temperature range stickers. I emailed them but have not heard back from them yet. I was just curious if you got them from someone else?

G'day mate...I got them off the racetemp.com website. I never actually communicated at all with them before I purchased the gauge; I went straight to buy now and payed through paypal. Once I paid I sent them an email asking them to confirm the purchase.

I got a reply from them within 24hrs confirming my purchase and took just over 2 weeks shipping to Australia.

[MITCH316]

I just completed my Summit build over the weekend and wanted to post some pics to share .

[MITCH316]

That road looks so familiar! Also, where is all the traffic, that lack of traffic was amazing!

That is Forest Lake state school parking lot; its like a bypass road through the parking lot...every now and then you get some mad nutter zooming through there

[humayrayakongkinaon]

every now and then you get some mad nutter zooming through there

must be one of those "wanna be racer" type of thing .

[MITCH316]

must be one of those "wanna be racer" type of thing .

Not sure what you call it in the States but here in Oz they call it hooning...and they are known as hoons .

[Nepptune]

**** Craig, those rides look siiiick man!!! Love the Summit build! You got a thread for that build?

[MITCH316]

Today I was a little bit disappointed...I heard the tale tell signs of a stripped diff. I thought this deserved to go in my thread now before the rest of my video reviews.

I have had about 20 2/3s and a few 2/2s battery runs...every time under heavy acceleration and braking as my thoughts were I really wanted to put this diff through its paces.

I am still confident that this is the way to go if you are stripping a lot of stock diffs... (stockers I would of had to rebuild many times with my driving tests I put these diffs under). I do realise that not everyone bashes as insanely as I do…and I accept that this is on par for the way I use my truck.

I am a firm believer that diffs need to be opened up and inspected as there is a break-in period, then re-shimmed appropriately. I probably left it a few battery runs to late.

FRONT DIFF PINION AND RING GEAR


As you can see the tales are worn on the front pinion gear...this is classic signs of the pinion engaging the ring gear under heavy load; I think if I had shimmed this a few battery runs before it wouldn't be as worn as is now.



As you can see on the ring gear there are a few teeth that show signs of where the pinion has missed a tooth and then engaged.

Overall, I don't think the wear is too bad considering the amount of Horse Power that runs through the diffs.

REAR DIFF PINION AND RING GEAR


Unbelievable, looks as good as new.



Same goes for the rear

I will rebuild these diffs and document the shimming I used for front and rear, as I think the front diff will require more shimming than the rear.

[MITCH316]

**** Craig, those rides look siiiick man!!! Love the Summit build! You got a thread for that build?

Lekker lekker my bru, kla nie...thanks mate; here is my Summit build thread. How is sunny South Africa?

[MITCH316]

I am not going into details here on how to build the diff. You can have a read through post #26 - 31 for details.

Here is my front and rear diff cleaned and ready to be shimmed and assembled. On close inspection of the spiders gears, o-rings, drive axial stubs, diff cup and case; it all seemed to be in pretty good nick. I was very happy with the outcome of my diff tests.



FRONT DIFF
The front diff took some time in getting the shimming right and as good as I could get the gear mesh.

The pinion gear ended up taking a 1 x 8mm shim 0.2 thick.


The diff cup and ring gear ended up taking a 1 x 8mm shim 0.3 thick as shown.


Again I added a shim to the outside of the pinion to try and eliminate any play on the pinion gear when installed and operational. When the yoke is in place it is almost hard up on the bearing...that's what I like about the Losi yoke on the centre CVD.

1 x 8mm shim 0.1 thick was required to close the gap as shown.


With this shimming in place it was a near enough almost perfect mesh for my liking. I decided to use a thicker lube in my diffs this time to what I had before; I used a mixture of 100K and 50K diff lube as that is what I had on hand.

Mixture was 1/4 100K and 3/4 50K Traxxas diff lube...the Losi diff takes quiet a lot more lube than the stock diff.


REAR DIFF
I followed the same procedure as the front diff in getting the shimming right and as good as I could get the gear mesh.


The pinion gear ended up taking a 1 x 8mm shim 0.1 thick.


The diff cup and ring gear ended up taking a 1 x 8mm shim 0.2 thick as shown.


Again I followed the same procedure as above for shimming the outside of the pinion to eliminate any play on the pinion gear when installed and operational.

1 x 8mm shim 0.1 thick was required to close the gap as shown.


Mixture for rear diff was 1/4 100K, 5/8 50K and 3/8 30K Traxxas diff lube...I ran out of 50K lube; anyway I always like the rear a little thinner than the front .

All I need is to test this now and see how shimming the diffs went and how long the front diff will last with the amount of wear already on the pinion gear.

If all fails I think I will end up giving these a try.


OVERVIEW
The new LOSB3535 Ti-Nitride Ring and Pinion gear set are exact replacements for the hardened steel gears used in the LST and LST2. These new gears are made to the same exacting specifications and tolerances from premium steel alloy and hardened for increased strength like the gears used in the LST/2. They then get an additional hi-tech Titanium–Nitride process that creates a super hard shell that also has a much higher lubricity. This means the gears mesh smoother for less resistance as well as longer wear. The Titanium-Nitride process is like that used on Formula One race cars and the space shuttle so you know it's got to be good.

[MITCH316]

I just took my truck out for a lunch time bash at my local skate park and needless to say my truck is going so well again.

I'm glad I took the time out to do the diff inspection; it took some time in stripping down, cleaning and reassembling but well worth the time spent in doing so.

I am one happy basher again

[crashproff]

how'd you get the bearings off the pinion? i tried to knock them off with a hammer but they seemed stuck on there.

[MITCH316]

how'd you get the bearings off the pinion? i tried to knock them off with a hammer but they seemed stuck on there.

I just opened up the diff and the bearings just slid off no problem; as if they were still new.

This may help you mate...it is from post #44; try this next time...its far less frustrating ; the principal behind the theory is the same.

REMOVING STUB AXLES FROM AXLE CARRIERS
I will show you a simple way to remove the stub axle from the carrier without pounding away with a wrench or hammer and damaging the bearings in the process. The same goes for sliding the bearing over the stub axle...Because of the spline pin and the force on the axle it often causes a lip that you can't see with the eye and stops the bearing from sliding over the hole.

I know the pic is of me pushing the stub axle on the axle carrier the wrong way but I am sure you get the idea of what I am trying to explain. In the pic this is often where the bearing gets stuck, on either side of the spline hole.



The simple solution is when this happens is to get some sand paper that is not to coarse (very fine) and cut a strip. Wrap it around the stub axle and role between your fingers like so.



The bearing should slide off in no time and you save yourself the hassle and frustration of the axle being stuck and trying to force off

I always have on hand 3 different types of sand paper, all very fine coarse...it always comes in handy.