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  1. #1
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    ? on Stock diffs

    What do you guys recomend for beefing up the stock diffs?? Ive already spent a fortune on my new project maxx with 1/8 scale diffs. Looking for a cheaper way to just make the stock ones on my other maxx stronger. I know shimming them up good will help. maybe some alum. cases? better bearings for shure.

  2. #2
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    So by your post I am guessing you have had issues with diffs in the past. I have had my stock un-shimmed diffs in my truck for 6 months now running on 6s pretty hard and when I opened them up the other day to service them they were still in great condition. Having seen a few people destroy their diffs though, IMO it seems to be very much related to how much "play" there is in the entire diff housing with respect to the bulkheads. I have Aluminium Bulkheads and my diffs are very secure with almost no play whereas the diffs I have seen destroyed have significant play in one or more directions on their diff. I know shimming helps, but this reduces "play" within the actual diff gears themselves rather than in the diff relative to the bulkheads. What center driveshaft you running?
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  3. #3
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    I haven't shimmed or done anything with mine either, and they've been fine on 6s. But all I do is carry wheelies for 60 yards with this truck.

    I get a kick out of balancing it for so far.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by EMAXXBRUSHLESS View Post
    What do you guys recomend for beefing up the stock diffs?? Ive already spent a fortune on my new project maxx with 1/8 scale diffs. Looking for a cheaper way to just make the stock ones on my other maxx stronger. I know shimming them up good will help. maybe some alum. cases? better bearings for shure.
    My truck just start clicking this past weekend also. I haven't had a chance to take it apart yet but I suspect the front diff is messed up. I'm interested in knowing what you do to 'beef' yours up.

    I know everyone recommends the FLM ultimate hybrid bulks but they're a bit out of my price range right now.

  5. #5
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    Ok, so as per my previous post about this, I have had no problems whereas someone I know had had to redo their diff's a few times already. We have often discussed this between ourselves trying to understand why his go and mine don't. We are both running 6s and doing similar things with our trucks. The only differences between his and mine that IMO could be creating his problem are that he has stock plastic bulkheads and has the upgraded steel center driveshaft were as I have aluminium bulkheads but the stock driveshaft. Gearing is similar. Now I cannot say for sure what the root cause of his problem is, but one thing I have noticed is that his diff has more play relative to his bulkhead than mine. So not sure if this alone is the root cause or if because also coupled to steel driveshaft. Some info from others out there experiencing similar issues relating to the driveshafts and bulkheads they run may lead to some "smoking gun" so to speak. Once you know what is causing the issue it then becomes something you can solve hopefully without throwing excessive upgrades & $ at the problem.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  6. #6
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    I'm also using the Golden Horizon bulkheads and the X-brace that goes between them. I'm running the Traxxas steel center driveshafts, and stock axles.

    The one stock diff that I did destroy is when I would do wheelies from a stop, I did it all day long. But ever since then, I will only do wheelies after the truck is moving at least 2-3mph. This removes a lot of stress from the components.

  7. #7
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    This is the first time iv'e had a problem with a stock diff. I took it apart last night and found the problem. The inner pinion bearing completely destroyed and ring gear pretty chewed up. I have alum bulks and traxxas steel cvds on this one. I think most of the problem was I didnt put an oring or spacer on the pinion gear shaft to keep it from sliding into the diff. The inner diff and spyder gears seem to be fine. I have a couple complete new ones on the shelf that have been waiting for this to happen. I ordered a couple of alum gear box cases. I will use the guts from one of the new ones and will get some better bearings. probably from avid and shim it as needed to get a good fit. and then put an oring or two on the pinion shaft to keep it from sliding in towards the ring gear. Then wait for the rear,
    Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 08-21-2012 at 07:03 AM.

  8. #8
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    upon further inspection I found that bearing failure was the cause. The traxxas steel cvds fit the pinion right up to the bearing so the pinion sliding in towards the ring gear wasnt the problem. I dont think theres even enough room for an oring there maybe a thin spacer to take up the little bit of movment. with thye cvd pin through the hole the pinion barely moves back and forth.
    Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 08-21-2012 at 06:48 PM.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EMAXXBRUSHLESS View Post
    This is the first time iv'e had a problem with a stock diff. I took it apart last night and found the problem. The inner pinion bearing completely destroyed and ring gear pretty chewed up. I have alum bulks and traxxas steel cvds on this one. I think most of the problem was I didnt put an oring or spacer on the pinion gear shaft to keep it from sliding into the diff. The inner diff and spyder gears seem to be fine. I have a couple complete new ones on the shelf that have been waiting for this to happen. I ordered a couple of alum gear box cases. I will use the guts from one of the new ones and will get some better bearings. probably from avid and shim it as needed to get a good fit. and then put an oring or two on the pinion shaft to keep it from sliding in towards the ring gear. Then wait for the rear,
    I know all to well about bearing failure and chewing up my ring gear
    Rock n Rolla !

  10. #10
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    what kind of bearings do you use??

  11. #11
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    You need to shim the diffs. I can almost guarantee you mangled those gears because of play in the ring and pinion gear, the bearing would be coincidence imo. If you don't have your diff shimmed, make sure you have plenty of ring and pinion gears handy because you will be going through them a lot.

  12. #12
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    Thanks for the info guys. Like I stated earlier in this post Im getting some alum cases and avid bearings and will shim for a good fit and see how it holds up. Hopfully the avid bearings are better than the stock traxxas ones.

  13. #13
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    Get the revo diffs w the x brace and side metal inserts and HD diff cup. The EMBE doesnt come with revo spec diffs. The extra bracing in the HD diff cup works good and relatively cheap.
    Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
    2400/2200/4000kv

  14. #14
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    I thought the revo and maxx diffs were the same. Do you have part # for the revo diffs and cups ?? Thanks

  15. #15
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    would these fit the e-maxx diff??

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=310422089296

  16. #16
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    Dr.j
    I just took my stock e-maxx brushless diff apart. I believe its the same thing. Has xbrace in the middle and metal tabs on the sides? same as the revo spec. same part # 5382x gear set w/xbrace and #3978 hd diff carrier
    Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 08-22-2012 at 12:39 PM.

  17. #17
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    It's the same diff in both trucks.

  18. #18
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    Thats what I figured out. DR.J must be confused with somthing else. So I guess the rd logics alum diff cup should fit the e-maxx?

  19. #19
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    He may be thinking about an older spec E-Maxx that has the weaker diffs. I've just learned to alter my driving style and carry a few spare diffs just in case.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by EMAXXBRUSHLESS View Post
    Thats what I figured out. DR.J must be confused with somthing else. So I guess the rd logics alum diff cup should fit the e-maxx?
    Sorry for misleading you guys. When I took mine apart, it didnt have them, so I assumed they all didnt. I must have gotten an older one as I bought it used. I recently bought the rc best aluminum diff cups, and everything fit, except the 4 screws holding the ring gear to cup were the smaller diameter screws. Everything seems fine on it, but I only run 4s, occasionally 5s. The rd logics looks like they would hold up well. I couldnt tell when I looked at them if you could fit the x-brace in them.
    Last edited by Dr.J; 08-22-2012 at 02:57 PM.
    Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
    2400/2200/4000kv

  21. #21
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    Good point about the xbrace fitting the rd logics alum cups. The exploded view of the revo diff doesnt show the xbrace. Where it does on the maxx. You might have just saved me 20.00 Thanks

  22. #22
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    Might not need the x-brace??? Aluminum holds much better than the plastic cup.
    Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
    2400/2200/4000kv

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EMAXXBRUSHLESS View Post
    Good point about the xbrace fitting the rd logics alum cups. The exploded view of the revo diff doesnt show the xbrace. Where it does on the maxx. You might have just saved me 20.00 Thanks
    The E-Revo does use the x brace, I have one...the older Revos might not, same as the older maxx's. Hot Racing and ST Racing sell aluminium diff cups that take the x brace.
    Rock n Rolla !

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