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  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    7

    Need Help On Setup For Concrete oval

    I have a 1/16 kyle bucsh brushless setup. I know its the same as the slash. I can not get this thing to have good bite off the corners. Right now I have 80wt in front and 60wt in rear. The springs are brown in front and LR-green RR-black. This current setup is ok and turns getting in good but just doesnt blast off the corners. I am running 38 foam tires. I have tried all kinds of camber, toe in or out, ride heights, springs and shock oil. I am so far outta wack now that Im about ready to break it in half. I have the gtr shocks, aluminum toe links and pushrods. I am runing lipos. Can someone please help before i drive myself crazy. I am runing on concrete in my shop. Its 40x40. Some friends and I all have the same truck. We r all runing the 38 foam tires. We r runing the same gear which is a 25 pinion.Thanks

  2. #2
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    7
    Im getting waxed and need help. please

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    Have you thought of running a hr sway bar vxs311x01?

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    FarNorCal
    Posts
    273
    x2 on the sway bars
    rc10T3, TT Sparrowhawk XXB, Slash 4x4, 1/16 Rally

  5. #5
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    7
    yes i wat to try it but evryone else doesnt want to spend the money.Does anyone have a god baseline? I ve got mine out so far that my camber and toe is way out and i cant even get it to run like it did before i messed with it. Thanks

  6. #6
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    7
    We are running dirt late model bodies. We are not drifiting but driving similar to a dirt late model. Drive it in hard let it tail out just a tad and hammer down. The problem Im haveing is that it turns great getting in but it wants to wheel spin coming off corner. My buddies have their cars real tight getting in and when they stomp the gas coming off they pull three or four car lengths on me. I can out run them being real smooth but i have to be perfect every lap to do that. I need some help getting the camber and toe back right. I put the new adjustable tie rods and pushrods on and made them the same length as stock. 60mm for tie rod and 48mm for pushrod. I dont know how many turns the pivot balls need to be to get them back to stock. I have went way to far on adjustment and need help getting back.Do i need to try and shorten pushrods to get more foward drive.Im lost. Thanks

  7. #7
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Greenville,SC
    Posts
    85
    The manual gives you some detail on how to fix the problems you're having. Upper pivot in results in more toe in and more negative camber, out the opposite. Lower pivot ball in causes more negative camber and more toe in, out the opposite. I set mine up on a counter top using a square and yardstick, etc.

    The HR sway bars are key. Learning is part of the hobby. It wouldn't hurt to ask your buddies when they are there to help you.

  8. #8
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    7
    I know how to adjust the camber and toe. I was looking for some suggestions on how much toe in or out and how much camber to run. My buddies that run have the same spirng combos. Thats why i dont understand why mine doesn't bite as hard coming off. Their cars are way to tight getting in but they dig coming off. Mine is the opposite. It turns good in but has wheel spin coming off that I account for by being smooth on gas. Ive been told that running alot of toe in creates drive so i tried that in small increments with no better results. Do i need to try different springs, shock oil, etc?? My friends want their car to turn like mine and i want mine to bite like theirs. I was hoping to get an idea on what ride heights, camber, toe, springs to run. Thanks for all the help. I cant talk them into getting the sway bar kit.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    9,244
    A center diff might help.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    FarNorCal
    Posts
    273
    Hmmmmm wheel spin....can you "treat" your foam tires or is that against the rules???? In the slot-car realm we "treat" foams to get better grip, don't see why it would'nt work on rc foams. I personally use a "treatment" call'd Frog Spit on my slot-car foams and it works great!!! You should be able to pick it up on ebay, if not let me know and I'll post the website.
    rc10T3, TT Sparrowhawk XXB, Slash 4x4, 1/16 Rally

  11. #11
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    7
    I have tried the paragon stuff and man u talkin about stickn. It took off like rocket and then u turn left and it flips over. Way too much traction. Does this sound like a good starting point to return to. Front= double black springs 80wt 0 degrees camber and toe Rear= double green springs 60wt 2 degrees camber and 1 degree toe in. As far as adjusting the pushrods am I better off to leave them stock or try shortining them

  12. #12
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    7
    Tire soak is against rules(ha ha) but i tried it anyway to see how it would work. We r just tryin to have fun and not out spend each other. I would like it to be more even as far as racing goes. Setup and driver should determine winner not who spent most money. We r trying to keep everything the same. The thing is they copied my setup to the tee. Then they played with toe and camber. They bought the adjustable links before i did. I am behind the eight ball so to speak and they are not as nice as i was when it comes to sharring information. Thanks again for the any and all help

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