I am using on 5918X push rods and 5939R toe links on my eSlay-Revo build. I am a fan of the aluminium red anodised look.
I am going to do the same as what I did on my eRevo...I am going to use the thicker rod end that is used on the rear toe link on the front toe links as well. Here is a comparison of the rod ends...rear rod end is on the left.
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Rock n Rolla !
I am using the Traxxas sway bar kit #5498 front and rear. I can't comment on the Tekno sway bar kit as I have never used one.
In my experience...it is unbelievable the difference this has made to the performance and handling of my eRev that I have decided to use one on this build
This is what the sway bar kit looks like for those who don't know.
I replaced the front stock linkage with these beefier 49mm aluminium turnbuckles #3738.
In comparison there is a significant difference.
When you get the sway bar kit you will receive a jig and from memory I think a drill bit, I can't remember tho. As you can see I drilled a hole in the bottom rocker. The jig is pretty self explanatory to use.
I set my linkage attachment 5mm from the top if the sway bar front and rear...I too am using the silver sway bar all round.
I would certainly recommend the sway bar kit to anyone who is wanting to improve performance and handling of their truck.
Rock n Rolla !
I've read the debate on these forums about greasing, diff lubing and leaving the transmission clean. I like to grease my moving parts, especially when there is metal on metal contact.
As you can see in the photo below I applied a generous amount of grease to all the moving parts, even the nylon gear. I have been using this method ever since I have gotten into the RC hobby game and have never had an issue from greasing my transmission.
Again I have used Mobil1 red grease.
I then closed up the transmission and is now ready to be installed.
I like to service my transmission every 6 months and inspect every couple months to see that the bearings are still running smoothly.
Rock n Rolla !
I've decided to use the Traxxas centre CVD #5650R on this build...I've had great success with it on my eRevo and Summit.
And here installed on my truck. The installation was clean and easy
I never ended up using the o-rings as seen below...for some reason when I fitted the CVD's to the diff every thing was a nice snug fit so I removed them.
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Rock n Rolla !
Here is the parts list I used for a single servo installation for my eSlay-Revo
STRC STP6037S Alum Single Steering Servo Saver Arm
Traxxas #5344X Servo Saver Heavy Duty Spring
Ofna #10776Alum Servo Arm Horn 25-Tooth
Savox SA-1231SG Servo
Traxxas cover plate #5326X
Below as seen is the STRC servo arm and Traxxas heavy duty spring.
Here is the Savox servo with Traxxas cover plate.
And here a nice clean and easy installation of the cover plate , servo and servo arm.
I then fitted the servo horn and steering linkage.
I set up the servo horn and steering link as per the manual.
I am using the maximum travel steering stop and using the outer hole on the servo horn.
I will do the fine tuning of my steering when my beast is up and running.
Rock n Rolla !
I used the traxxas cover plate (#5326X) and modded it to fit my chassis in the empty servo spot.
I used my dremel to remove material and smooth off. I also slotted the one screw hole longer. It was a relatively easy job and went smoothly.
It was a nice fit...as if a servo was fitted in the spot.
And here it is fastened into position. The cover plate cost me $3, I was going to make one but then came across this.
Its all coming together now...![]()
Rock n Rolla !
Here is my build so far...I am using the HOBBYWING XERUN 2000KV Brushless Motor & EZRUN WP SC8 120A ESC combo on this build.
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Rock n Rolla !
That looks great man.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2
lets put some abuse to it to see what its capable of, like what we see with your e-revo does.
This is copied from my eRevo thread....this is the method I use for pinion and spur gear mesh.
I start off by cutting a strip of paper slightly wider than my spur gear and roughly 15cm long.
I then fold in half...I like to use this thickness to set the spacing between my gear mesh.
I then feed between my spur and pinion and push together.
With even pressure I press the pinion and spur together and rotate the spur so the paper runs between the spur and pinion.
Once I am happy that the paper is running smoothly between the gears I fasten the motor into position and rotate the spur in the opposite direction to remove the paper.
I try and align my spur so it is sitting centre of the pinion gear.
I have been using this method for a long time without any issues.
Rock n Rolla !
This is copied from my eRevo thread....this is the setting I am using on this truck.
I have run into a few issues in the past with incorrect slipper clutch setting on my eRevo...I've melted my spur gear from the slipper been to loose or worn.
The way I like to set my slipper is I tighten my slipper all the way, basically where it feels tight, but not too tight. I then set the tool in the vertical position as my setting out point.
I then back off a 1/4 turn while using my hex driver to lock the transmission while tightening or loosening the slipper.
This is an ideal setting for me.
Rock n Rolla !
This is the racetemp stick on temp gauge.
I have been using this on my eRevo with great success...very easy to read; you are able to get an idea of motor temps and is accurate within a few deg...I use the touch method for ESC and batteries...I compare this to how hot the motor feels to touch for an idea.
This is how I stuck mine on.
How to read:
Green indicates actual temperature.
As rated temperature is reached, indicator changes from black to:
*Green bar indicates actual temperature reading.
*Brown bar indicates temperature reading just above actual reading.
*Blue bar indicates temperature reading just below actual reading.
I find that the temp gauge works extremely well and unit measurements are in °C and °F. The °C only become visible when the bar is colour coded.
Rock n Rolla !
Nice build ! I bet it rips
Lot of good tips .I have always set my pinion lash by feel .never had a problem !
Nice work Craig - its great to see such detailed write-ups like this.
I like the thermometer too - may have to get one.
Looking good mate. Truck was going sweet on Saturday, and that was only test #1. Can't wait till it is dialed in properly, can get some racing going with the Slash![]()
Always get a 2nd Opinion!
I am running the HOBBYWING XERUN 2000KV Brushless Motor & EZRUN WP SC8 120A ESC Combo on this build. The eSlayer will only run 2/2s...I'm also running MOD1 gearing 20/38.
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Rock n Rolla !
Not much really to add here...this is taken from my eRevo thread...and this is the wheel balancer that I use; it is a Dynamite #2620.
I am a firm believer in wheel balancing, and it is incredible to think the difference it makes to your performance and handling; it also extends the life of the trucks mechanical parts.
It fits the 17mm rims perfectly...the only problem is it doesn't fit the 3.8's or 40 series the correct way...to get around this I put the rim on the opposite way.
Rock n Rolla !
I apologise in advance for the poor quality photos.
As said in the previous post, I am a firm believer in balancing wheels.
My preferred choice for balancing these wheels is lead tape. I generally use this tape Dynamite DYN2621. You can also use lead tape from tennis or golf shop. It is not as thick but still does a good job.
PROCEDURE
Start off by making sure the inside of the rim is clean so the tape will stick.
I put the wheel on the opposite way around...I find it easier to balance the wheel this way. Give the wheel a light spin and wait for the wheel to stop rotating. This means the heavy spot is at the bottom. I mark the top with chalk or a permanent marker.
As seen below marked with chalk at the top.
This is the side you are going to balance; place whatever you are using this side. Keep adding weight to this end until such that when the wheel is rotated freely that the balanced section keeps stopping in different locations. It’s also very easy to add too much weight to the balanced side making it the heavy side.
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Rock n Rolla !
I am using the Associate SC8 body for my eSlayer build..this is the same body Cameron used on his build...thanks for the handy info you have given me mate.
The body is rather large; I had some difficulty deciding where to ream the mounting holes.
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I tried to place the body centrally between the bumpers...I had to trim quite a bit of the rear wheel wells to make it a better fit.
You can see the rear wheels tuck in nicely when the truck is pressed down
And again with the front.
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Rock n Rolla !
I had to mod the rear body post...because of the downward slope at the rear of the car, it just didn't sit right so this is what I did.
I dremeled some of the body post and assembled back to front so the body would sit better.
It sits much better now after doing this.
Rock n Rolla !
Looks nice!
I balanced my tires too but the thin tape wasn't heavy enough. One of my tires needed 13 grams!
I've changed to the 17mm red anodised traxxas adapter #5353R...its looking much better now.
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Rock n Rolla !
Lookin great, i almost mounted my body there. But i was worried it would be scrubbing hard up front so i trimmed the bumper to fit over some of the front bumper. Modified the bumper a tad too. I'm mounted what looks to be 1/2 - 3/4" further to the front than yours. My rear posts are right on that roll bar molded bit on the rear.
Thats a great looking build man, loving it
Are those suprasales wheels/tires?
(RAH)² (AH)³ + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA)² + (OOH)(LA)²
Cheers mate, thanks for the feedback...I was going to mount mine like you did to yours, maybe I should of...we will see how long the body lasts as it is overhanging the rear bumper a tad bit...I've only picked that up now.
I'm not sure mate...I bought the wheels of eBay; they were listed as Ths Racing B82 1/8 Buggy Tire.
Rock n Rolla !
i buy my wheels/tires from him, thats what i'm running now on my SlayVo GT8. for as cheap as they are.....they're not so bad at all.
Im waiting to see a chance to buy a few sets. his shipping to Canada is insane. even with the discount on multiples.
(RAH)² (AH)³ + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA)² + (OOH)(LA)²
I had these spray cans lying around...
Metallic red; metallic green; copper; silver; grey; black, white and smoke.
This is what I managed to came up with...protective skin is still on the body.
It came out a lot better than expected...Next task is the decal.
Rock n Rolla !
This is the Associate SC8 body with decal...I really like it...looks great in the sunlight!
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Rock n Rolla !
Here is a little video I made of the first test run of my eSlayer. This is easily becoming my favourite ride at the moment!!
Rock n Rolla !
Just a comparison of my mates slash 4x4 compared to me eSlayer.
I've been taking the eSlayer out everyday after work for a set of batteries with my son...he is really enjoying the eSlayer.
Rock n Rolla !
i want to do this to my revo so bad
Just a few pics of me bashing my eSlayer...I've been running a set of batteries everyday after work 2/2s, this truck is so much fun.
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Rock n Rolla !
Here's me jumping a little creak behind my house...basically 3m run up and punching the throttle before the gap...The eSlayer is so much to play around with.
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Rock n Rolla !
great vid and pics how do like the vdp on the slayer ,does the weight have an effect on how it works .