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  1. #1
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    Took the plunge.

    Ever since I found out the ET-3s was capable of being programmed to work like a MMP, I have been eyeing this car. Should be here any day. First mod will be to reprogram the ESC and drop in 4s. Then add a 1512 2650kv motor and a single 6s battery and see what explodes. The good times just keep rolling.

  2. #2
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    I am not 100% sure but I think that you will want to measure the battery box before you buy the 4s and 6s batteries ,,,,
    if you already have the 4s and 6s batteries you might be looking at modifying the battery box if your batteries are to long.
    side to side there is not much room to mod and only an inch or so to mod for length.
    I had to mod mine to hold a 3s 8400 mah battery.

    pretty much used every bit of room I could find not to mention fabricating a new hold down.

  3. #3
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    Took the plunge.

    I already have both batteries. The 6s fits fine. It's from maxamps 6500mah. But yes, I had to do some modding to get it to fit.

  4. #4
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    sounds great ,,, can you post a picture of what you modified to get it to fit . I would like to see that.

  5. #5
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    thats what I hate about traxxas vehicles, you cant adjust the battery tray in the length, only the height in most traxxas rc's. except for the xo-1 how am I going to fit a 170mm long lipo in a 147mm long battery tray?!
    Sl4sh, Arrma Talion, Stamp4de, Castle, MIP, RPM

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jelle318 View Post
    thats what I hate about traxxas vehicles, you cant adjust the battery tray in the length, only the height in most traxxas rc's. except for the xo-1 how am I going to fit a 170mm long lipo in a 147mm long battery tray?!
    in the picture above I removed the battery hold down latch and modified the hold down and used the extra room all the wat up to the esc

  7. #7
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    The 6s battery proved to be too much. The car is very fast w/ a MM2 and a 1512 2650kv - albeit probably a bit too fast given it's meant for SLP (straight line performance); debating actually going back to the ET-3s, and starting at 3s using the 1512 2650kv with a 21t pinion and moving up to 4s as i become more comfortable with driving this thing. It's a much different beast from my X0-1s.

  8. #8
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    to get the battery to fit? to get the motor to fit? What pics are you specifically looking for so i can attach for you.
    Quote Originally Posted by MONKEYPIARATE View Post
    sounds great ,,, can you post a picture of what you modified to get it to fit . I would like to see that.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIFTT IX MR View Post
    to get the battery to fit? to get the motor to fit? What pics are you specifically looking for so i can attach for you.
    mostly the battery but if you did something special to the motor mounting I would like to see that too.

  10. #10
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    The motor was a simple bolt on, but its size doesn't leave much room for adjustment. The battery was the biggest pain. Orginally started using a single 6s, but that proved too big (it was too tall, and just barely fit, but made the car roll easier, so i went with two 3s traxxas batteries, which worked, and are shorter. i'll shoot you some pics tonight when i get home or both mods, after i put the old ESC back in, which i will now have to secure with two sided tape. I just want to get a decent run in. 6S was burn out central. I don't think i ever had control of the car on 6s, i think was just lucky it didn't cause property damage.

    John
    Last edited by SHIFTT IX MR; 09-29-2015 at 10:41 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIFTT IX MR View Post
    The motor was a simple bolt on, but its size doesn't leave much room for adjustment. The battery was the biggest pain. Orginally started using a single 6s, but that proved too big (it was too tall, and just barely fit, but made the car roll easier, so i went with two 3s traxxas batteries, which worked, and are shorter. i'll shoot you some pics tonight when i get home or both mods, after i put the old ESC back in, which i will now have to secure with two sided tape. I just want to get a decent run in. 6S was burn out central. I don't think i ever had control of the car on 6s, i think was just lucky it didn't cause property damage.


    John
    sounds great I will look for those pics ....if it makes you feel any better I can barely handle mine on 3s , lol

  12. #12
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    Here's the motor installed. Still modding the battery compartment, should have it done tonight, hopefully. [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

  13. #13
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    NICE ,,,,Very Nice!

  14. #14
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    To me the 1512 2650kv seemed like the best upgrade considering the 1515 is 75mm long and puts the majority of that heft on the left rear wheel, lessening the chances for that wheel to spin, increasing wheel spin of the right rear wheel. The larger 1515 2200kv motor IMO would have only exacerbated right rear wheel spin, already normally associated with the use of the 2400kv motor. Having said that, the stock motor is 1.5mm longer than the 1512, which is 68mm long. It more evenly centers the motor weight over the rear tires. Not to mention, the lower KV rating of the 1515 means i would have to gear it higher to make up for the loss in KV going from the stock 2400kv to the 1515 2200kv motor, but due to the size of the 15 series castle motor, i was inherently limited to gearing choices. The 2650kv motor allows me to gear up and down from 20t to 23-24t pinions, whereas i would have been limited to using the 23t to make up the difference in the kv ratings between stock and the 1515, assuming the 2400kv motor with a 20t pinion, and assuming running 3s. Having said that, both the 1512 and 1515 really limit pinion size choices when using the stock spur, and have found a 18t pinion doesn't even make contact with the spur. I am therefore assuming a 19t pinion also, will not fit. I have 21t pinion on it now, I believe i have just enough room to fit a 20t - but that's a big maybe.

    As for the modding the chassis to accept dual batteries, or just larger batteries in general, i never took into consideration the forward movement of the batteries in the event of a crash. My plan was to use Velcro straps to secure the battery, but that would only secure it from side to side movement, not forward movement in a crash or hard braking. I think i might have messed up and need to purchase a new chassis, which puts but back at square one with regards to modding the battery compartment to accommodate big juice. Lovely. Trial & Error.

  15. #15
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    I would think that you could pad/protect the front of the battery with some foam ,,,,mine came with a black foam tee that believe is for shipping purposes,,, it makes excellent battery padding if you have a bit of room in front. or you could put a Velcro pad under the battery to keep it from sliding.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I would think that reprogramming the stock esc to handle 4s with the 1415 motor could be the easy mod and allow for some really fast passes

    I've not seen any fast passes with motor modded Traxxas Funny Cars running 4s 5s or 6s ????
    First MiniSlash
    HK6XL Revo 4s 60mph Amsoil dealer

  17. #17
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    Update:

  18. #18
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    have you locked the diff yet?
    2.5r Pede, 2-speed O.S.21tm rusty , 3.3T-maxx

  19. #19
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    No, I am waiting for the steel 68t spur to arrive before i pull out the trans.
    These foams are WAY softer than the John BSR foams i run on my XO-1. I will however, try running the car without a locked diff just to see how it handles. Obviously i am looking consistent launches; That is launches STRAIGHT!

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