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  1. #1
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    esc blinking slow red

    Hi Guys,

    Still trying to finish this re-build MERV i got busted second hand. Just done the hitec 86wp servo which seems to be doing the job well. But now i find that after about 1 minute of run time i get slow flashing red light which i think is LVC. Using 2s LIPO and ESC is green before running. Just in the middle of discharge / balance recharge on the batt, but i'm out of ideas apart from that!?

    Cheers....

  2. #2
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    VXL-3s LED Codes and Protection Modes
    Solid Green: VXL-3s power on light. Low-Voltage Detection is ON (LiPo setting).
    Solid Red: VXL-3s power on light. Low-Voltage Detection is OFF (NiCad/NiMH setting).
    Fast Blinking Red: Thermal Shutdown Protection Stage 1. If the motor has lower than normal power and the
    VXL-3s is hot, the VXL-3s has entered Stage 1 Thermal Shutdown Protection to guard against overheating caused
    by excessive current flow. If the motor has no power and the VXL-3s is very hot, the VXL-3s has entered Stage 2
    Thermal Shutdown Protection and has automatically shut down. Let the VXL-3s cool. Make sure your model is
    properly geared for the conditions.
    Slow Blinking Red (with Low-Voltage Detection on): The VXL-3s has entered Low-Voltage Protection. When
    the battery voltage begins to reach the minimum recommended discharge voltage threshold for LiPo battery
    packs, the VXL-3s will limit the power output to 50% throttle. When the battery voltage attempts to fall below the
    minimum threshold, the VXL-3s will shut down all motor output. The LED on the speed control will slowly blink
    red, indicating a low-voltage shutdown. The VXL-3s will stay in this mode until a fully charged battery is connected.
    Alternating; Blinks Red then Green: If the motor has no power, the VXL-3s has entered Over Voltage Protection.
    If a battery with too high voltage is used, the VXL-3s will go into a failsafe mode. Warning: If input voltage exceeds
    approximately 20-volts, the ESC may be damaged. Do not exceed 12.6 maximum peak input voltage.
    Blinking Green: The VXL-3s is indicating the transmitter Throttle Trim is incorrectly set. Adjust the Throttle Trim to
    the middle 0 setting.

    dead battery would be my guess...
    Last edited by cooleocool; 12-21-2012 at 08:24 PM. Reason: post merge

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    What are the voltages of your cells?
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  4. #4
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    Hopefully dead battery and not dead esc. Not sure of the voltage of each cell, will see how this discharge / recharge goes and then try and find out...

    It's a 1800mah and only takes 1100 on recharge.

    I got longer out of it this time, but seems to behave a bit irrationally on the road, and then, sure enough, the red light starts blinking slowly on the esc. Not sure how to detect voltage on each cell of the battery? Charger i'm using is core rc uac 50.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 12-21-2012 at 08:25 PM. Reason: post merge

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Most (if not all) good chargers will be able to tell you the voltage for each cell.
    If yours cannot, you will either need to use a cell checker or a multimeter.



    Also, do not expect to get full mAh out of the pack during normal use. The pack would need to be discharged to around 3v/cell and then recharged to see full mAh being pumped back into it.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  6. #6
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    Cheers Jimmie - very helpful! I managed to find the button on the charger and it shows you voltage as you charge. Showing around 4v one each cell during charge, reaching 4.20v for both cells when full. So i guess that is as it should be?!?

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    4.2v when full is spot on!
    Check the voltage after your ESC is doing its red blinking light thing...
    Let us know when you can!!
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  8. #8
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    It's only slightly under as i haven't used much juice - about 4.10v!?

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    So you just ran it and it shut down at 4.10?
    Is the voltage the same for all cells?

    If yes... I am afraid it is a buggerd ESC. If the stock servo was bad, I have heard of them taking the ESC with them...
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  10. #10
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    Yeah i'll try again in the morning but hardly any current gets used up and then when you watch it charge both cells increase voltage together from about 4.1v to about 4.2v. Oh dear.

    So, yeah, i'm thinking dead ESC too. Don't suppose it could be to do with the hitec servo? I'm guessing it must be connected right way or it would just simply not work? If it is the ESC - do you have a recommended replacement?

    Think i should've bought new!!! Although it has been fun getting this one together...

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I doubt it... but if it goes away when unplugged it may be the servo. There is only one way to plug in a servo and have it work.

    Here is what I use:
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...w+installation
    Keep in mind there are lots others out there... just get at least a 60 amp ESC!
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  12. #12
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    Tried without servo and still getting the slow flashing red after a tiny bit of use. Have tried re-setting tx and then recalibrating ESC and still nothing. Also the braking is completely useless. Time for new ESC i guess!? Thanks for your help :-)

  13. #13
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    did you guys ever figure this out, I think that I got done the same way buying my revo second hand

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcash81001 View Post
    did you guys ever figure this out, I think that I got done the same way buying my revo second hand
    Yes it was actually the battery rather than the ESC this time. For some reason despite the battery showing correct charge rates and final voltage on each cell, it just wasn't putting out enough juice for the ESC, hence slow red blinking (low voltage cut-off). To prove it i used another ESC from another vehicle and had the same issue. New battery, no issue.

  15. #15
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    I am having similar issues. But seems to last about 4-5 minutes before red light starts flashing and I lose about 80% power. I get the same issue even if it's on low voltage detection mode or not. Running it on max Amps 11.1 lipo battery. I have 2 battery's and it does it no matter which one is plugged in so I doubt it is the battery. I have heard bad things about stock servos frying the ESC. But my servo still works fine even though it is slightly stripped when turning left or right I can't remember. I have tried re charging both battery's and it still does the same thing. It was working fine late last week when I was playing with it intil I stripped out a ring and pinion. Tore it down and replaced it with correct shims to get gear mesh correct. But it seemed to start acting up on me shortly after using it after rear diff rebuild. If anyone would know anything to help with my issue, help would me much appreciates. Thank you. And the car is a 1/16 e revo vxl with the velinion motor. Stock motor, servo, ESC. RPM control arms, aluminum steering knuckles, And aluminum bulk heads.

  16. #16
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    The esc isn't going to cause a LVC early. The problem in both 9revious cases was the batteries were simply not able to supply the amps the motor was asking for.
    The way it works is the motor isn't looking for "amps", it's looking for watts. Watts = volts x amps.
    The battery tries to supply the requested power, but is unable to do so. When that happens, the voltage drops until the battery is able to supply the requested power. We know that when you switch from 2 cell to 3 cell, amp draw goes up (assuming that's the only change)so when voltage goes down, amp draw goes down. The problem comes when the voltage drops past lvc. Even if the pack is still nearly full, lvc is lvc. LVC doesn't know how many mah are left in the pack, all it knows is the voltage. Any time you use a battery, it's voltage will drop at least a little. The higher the c rating, the less it will drop, but as batteries age, their c rating goes down....

    When you rebuilt the truck, its possible you did something that cased amp draw to go up (she's too tight? ), and if your batteries were already on the edge of not being able to supply the power, that could have pushed them over....

    Basicaly what I am saying is, there is a 99% chance the problem is your batteries.
    Dacaur

  17. #17
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    Thanks for posting this Jaman, probably should have done a bit more reading myself but I just realised that the overheating ESC issue I thought I had was actually just low batteries, doh! The Manual that comes with the xmaxx doesn't really say much about the error codes.

    I am getting about 15min on two 5000mAh 3S Lipo's is that about normal on an Xmaxx? (pretty much running it full throttle the whole time)

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    When you increase the voltage, you need less amperage to get the same amount of power. So when you go from 2S to 3S and the power stays the same, the necessary current decreases with a third.
    For example when you need 75A on 2S, you need only 50A on 3S to deliver the same amount of power.
    Nobody is born with experience

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