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  1. #1
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    Upgrading wheel bushings to bearings

    I'm going to upgrade from bushings to bearings in my pede. I was looking at the PDF on my phone and it appears to be about 8 bearings that are needed for the upgrade. I'm looking at the PDF on my phone so it's not the best viewing. I don't see just a bearing kit for the pede from traxxas either. Also does it require any. special tools for install or removal for this upgrade. Any part# would be awesome thanks

    P.S. it's a 2wd stampede
    Last edited by shawn3putt; 01-02-2013 at 04:31 PM.

  2. #2
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    Shawn- I am looking at the parts list I just downloaded from Traxxas and you can get them for the turnbuckles or the wheels. I plan on doing the same thing but just for the turnbuckles. Here are the part numbers I have listed and I do know there are no special tools needed.

    Turnbuckles 4607
    wheels 4606
    both 4608

    Now I could be wrong and new to all this but looking at the data in from of me is what I see.

  3. #3
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    I just want to do the front and rear wheel bearings for now. I was not even aware the turnbuckles had bearings. I also want to do the carriers and castor block but I'm going to wait till those break then purchase.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by shawn3putt View Post
    I was not even aware the turnbuckles had bearings.
    Haha....Not to worry they don't, Not sure what Teddyca was talking about there

    As long as your Stampede is not that old, then like theant said, you will need 5x11x4mm bearings, I usually get mine from Avid.

    You will need 8 to do all 4 corners. Pop out the bushings, put in the bearings done. If and when you decide to upgrade, the aluminum parts use the same size bearings. Your trans has ball bearings already.
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  5. #5
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    [QUOTE=dave00bear;5375415]Haha....Not to worry they don't, Not sure what Teddyca was talking about there
    That would explain why I didn't really notice the turnbuckle bearings on the PDF. My traxxas is new I just bought before Xmas. I. would like to buy the carriers now but I can't spend $50 on stuff that isn't broken but I'm trying. I launched it like 8' at the Bmx course. It was pretty cool

  6. #6
    RC Champion dave00bear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shawn3putt View Post
    I would like to buy the carriers now but I can't spend $50 on stuff that isn't broken but I'm trying. I launched it like 8' at the Bmx course. It was pretty cool
    HAHA yeah keep up the BMX tracks, and you WILL be breaking/replacing parts quicker then you think LOL. But hey thats what its all about right?

    Not to mention you will learn alot just by taking the truck apart and upgrading/replacing parts.

    Most of all have fun!
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  7. #7
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    I believe the part number is 4606 and can be had for about $15 shipped online

  8. #8
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    The bearings you are referring to are the TRX5116 5x11x4 (2) and yes the TRX4607 for 8 ball bearings that will fit your bearing carriers and trans.


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  9. #9
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    I did the same upgrade and what a difference it makes! Well worth the money.


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  10. #10
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    Would the trans bearings help as well or should I just worry about the wheels. Also I should be able to just take the new. bearings install them and when I want to upgrade the carriers just take out of old plastic carriers and install bearings into awesome new shiny Carriers without having to buy new bearings correct?

  11. #11
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    Trans has bearings so don't worry about that, and yes you can just swap out the bearings into new carriers. Since its the same amount of work just upgrade the carriers now, I use rpm units, the aluminum is better but double the price.
    Also use loctite on the screws, the temp changes effect the plastic and loosen them up.

  12. #12
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    They are pretty tough , mine started stock xl5 about 18 months later its brushless, and fully customized. Aprox 55/60 mph. And will wheelie at almost any speed. Almost everybody here started with an xl5 and built them, pavementsurfer has a pede that is over 70, Baldy Daniels is a wealth of knowledge, and Absoloot builds the nicest from scratch trucks . Check out these guys posts.
    Last edited by Pumpkin01020; 01-02-2013 at 09:20 PM.

  13. #13
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    Yes RPM is going to cost you a bit, but you could start with the front first and beef that up then move to the back later. Mine started as an XL-5 and i have been slowly upgrading as I go along (whether It really needs it right now or not)

    All of my upgrades are RPM btw.


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    Last edited by theant; 01-02-2013 at 10:03 PM.
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  14. #14
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    So when or if you guys upgrade to a stronger motor or more efficient,stronger drivetrain such as axles do you buy aluminum
    Wheel hubs. I would think you would eat up the plastic ones with all the power and more efficient driving force to the wheels.

  15. #15
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    Would help for sure. But they are so cheap to replace stock plastic ones that i havnt bothered to upgrade those yet.


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  16. #16
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    The wheel 12mm hexes are tough enough, my opinion, and they are cheap, i have only stripped one, and better to strip a $1 hex then a $10 wheel. I haven't had much trouble with shafts either, and I run a castle 3800 4 pole brushless (more power then the vxl ) I broke one u joint in over a year.
    Plus plastic is lighter (and cheap)and puts less stress on internal gears, pins, and transmission bearings.
    Better upgrades for a beginner would be to toughen the truck, then performance, . Also alum doesn't flex so it transfers force making weak points somewhere else.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pumpkin01020 View Post
    The wheel 12mm hexes are tough enough, my opinion, and they are cheap, i have only stripped one, and better to strip a $1 hex then a $10 wheel. I haven't had much trouble with shafts either, and I run a castle 3800 4 pole brushless (more power then the vxl ) I broke one u joint in over a year.
    Plus plastic is lighter (and cheap)and puts less stress on internal gears, pins, and transmission bearings.
    Better upgrades for a beginner would be to toughen the truck, then performance, . Also alum doesn't flex so it transfers force making weak points somewhere else.
    +1 i agree


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  18. #18
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    Ordered my bearings last night dor my pede. 8 rubber sealed bearings for $12 on ebay. Cant wait to see the difference in performance. I noticed the other day while driving that when i do sharp or long radious turns the inside wheel stops rolling. I will be curious to see if it changes with the new bearings. And no the wheels are put on correct i learned that the front and rear have diff offsets when i took all wheels off and reinstalled and the front wheel would bind up when turning. Another rookie mistsake but i see it as along as i make mistakes that i learn from then im just learning more about the hobbie and becoming more knowledgable. Not sure what to upgrade next any ideas?

  19. #19
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    Rpm 2wd slash front bumper. Much better then stock only about $10

  20. #20
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    +1 and also aluminum toe links to get rid of those plastic ones


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  21. #21
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    And RPM bearing carriers and castors if you have the $ for them. I also went as far as changing out all of the philips head screws to hex and "boxing in" the screws that attach the toe links to the shock tower by putting washers and lock nuts on the opposite side of it so that on impact the screw cant pull out of the tower.


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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by shawn3putt View Post
    Would the trans bearings help as well or should I just worry about the wheels.
    If your truck has some miles on it you should check the transmission bearings to make sure they aren't binding.


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  23. #23
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    I have a slash bumper that was the first thing I put on. It has saved me $$$$ already. So it sounds like Aluminum turnbuckles,castors and carriers are the next upgrade. I really like the look of the integy but im still figuring out whos reputable and whos just show. The traxxas links look a bit thin.

  24. #24
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    Stay away from Integy on anything small with threads, I have never had a problem with my bulkhead, but have heard to stay stay away from the other stuff.
    It is always better to buy a $20 part that won't brake then a $15 dollar part, break it, then replace it with the $20 part.
    I think Alum castor blocks with rpm carriers, the carriers flex a bit but the castor being stiffer helps handling and less bending of the pin.
    Also, look into the TI coated shock shafts, stronger and smoother then stock at about $8 per pair add in $4 for fluid (I use 50w) and 2 rebuild kits $2.50 each and a set of alum caps $10 total of about 35/40 and you will notice a giant improvement over the stock set up

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pumpkin01020 View Post
    Stay away from Integy on anything small with threads, I have never had a problem with my bulkhead, but have heard to stay stay away from the other stuff.
    It is always better to buy a $20 part that won't brake then a $15 dollar part, break it, then replace it with the $20 part.
    I think Alum castor blocks with rpm carriers, the carriers flex a bit but the castor being stiffer helps handling and less bending of the pin.
    Also, look into the TI coated shock shafts, stronger and smoother then stock at about $8 per pair add in $4 for fluid (I use 50w) and 2 rebuild kits $2.50 each and a set of alum caps $10 total of about 35/40 and you will notice a giant improvement over the stock set up
    Hey Pumpkin
    Do you have the part #'s for these? This is a great alternative to buying a new set of big bore shocks at a cost of $100!!!


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  26. #26
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    I am kind of dumb with part #'s I just go to LHS tell them what I want and hand them $,lol, I have NEVER shopped online so LHS takes care of me pretty well. I have 2 awesome shops within 25 minutes and try my best to split up my purchases.

  27. #27
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    Ok thanks anyways. The people running my lhs are old and really only interested in planes and boats. Lol
    So i usually have to go in with specific part numbers or i might not get what im looking for.


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  28. #28
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    4 washers
    2 plastic shock end stops
    1 25mm hex screw
    1 nylok nut
    Do this for each screw holding the tie rod to the shock tower. I also did the same at the top of each shock attaching to the top of the tower. Inexpensive and much beefier setup.


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  29. #29
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    I upgraded my bushings to bearings and my top speed increased by 3kmph. It also feels a bit more nippy (yes, not very scientific). This is on a xl5

    I know its an old thread, but I didnt want to start a new thread just to say what my experience was

  30. #30
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    Just a heads up for anyone running an older model Stampede (rustler, bandit, etc) They often use 5x8x2.5mm (approximately) bushing. So you would need to upgrade to current sized uprights at all 4 corners.

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