Well I figured I would go ahead and start a thread of what Im doing with my build instead of post in other build threads.
I went to the Kershaw chassis but its kicking my butt getting things just the way I want them. A little fab work involved right now to mount the RX8 ESC. I bought a snappy mount but not liking hte clearance for the way Im going to tuck the wiring and the addition of the Yeah Racing dual tornado fan heat sink. Ive not had temp issue but Im going to push the gearing on it to see just how high I can go and still be running 4s so I figured cooling would be in order for the motor.
Not going to be as intuitive as Craig or 87GN's of 50s threads but just a different flavor and Ill post some pics up when Im done. Should have it mosly road ready by torrow.
Ordred up the The Tekno carriers to use with MIPs so I had to run down a set of 6x16x5 bearings which arent all that common. Boca had them in ceramic although be it a bit pricey at $7.99/bearing. The only other was Avid and I just didnt like the looks of them. Also got a Tekno RX box that was made for the REVO to mount in the place of a servo when going single servo. I liked this idea better because its going to make for a cleaner wire install and I wont be crowded up around the motor. I did have to make one modification as the servo screw holes didnt line up. I used one existing side then drilled and tapped a hole from underneath for the other. A short 3mm screw just pokes through the bottom plate. This box is huge! but thats OK as I have an RX switch mounted in it and it leave pletnty of room for the excess wire. The onl thing Im not liking is the entry points for the wire being two large slots so its not anywhere near water proof. Im going to at least make is splash resistant.
Ill post some pics up when Im done.
pic..........![]()
Last edited by 87 GN; 02-21-2013 at 08:10 PM.
Would you go flip my truck back over??
sounds interesting keep us updated
Nice mate...I'll be watching for your feed back on the MIP's to see if they are worth the $'s.
Rock n Rolla !
Build specs so far
ERBE Brushless edition
Kershaw Designs Chassis V3
Tekin RX8/T8 2250 Truggy can
10 gauge 200c silicone multi strand wire
RD logics silver Aluminum tranny housing
HR motor mount
HR 51T hardened steel spur
RR hardened pinions, just put a 23T in hence the heatsink
HR double slipper kit with HR graphite pads
Yeah Racing twin tornado heatsink and cooling fans
Kershaw designs center dogbone kit
FLM aluminum diff cups, diffs shimmed to perfection
MIP 11101 shafts
Tekno Carriers (not installed yet, waiting on oddball 6x16x5 bearings to come in any day now, ugly blue integy installed ATM))
Traxxas red 17mm hex adaptors (HPP 17mm adaptors on the way)
Axial 8 spoke black chrome 40 series beadlocks
Proline 40 series road rage rubber taped with wide gorilla tape
Stock A arms, going with aluminum uppers when I find some that suit me.
Traxxas aluminum pillow balls (still in the package wating with the Tekno carriers)
Traxxas aluminum red push rod and toe/steering links
HR multi position rocker arms
HR aluminum shcok mounts F/R
JR Z9100HVT single servo
STRC aluminum bell crank w/HD spring and single servo conversion
Tekno RX box for Revo with slight mod to fit in empty servo slot
Futaba R614FF RX
RX and servo powered by custom harness tapped from 2s balancing plug
Custom ESC mount fabbed from aluminum 4ft straight edge. (makes good cheap aluminum stock!)
Traxxas Wheelie bar
Traxxas red aluminum bulkhead tie bars
Proline flotec body (still in package yet, stock red until I get it painted)
Acer ceramic kit except the 6x16x5 bearings for the carriers are Boca
Rear brace mod with red aluminum Traxxas push rod
HPP rear motor brace on the way
Everything else, at least whats left, are stock parts.
Whew! I think I got it all
Ill post up pics in a day or two
Last edited by JustinThyme; 02-22-2013 at 08:56 AM.
Nice list!
Years ago I ran aluminum pillow balls but they bent pretty fast then I tried titanium with no luck so back to stock
I was a bit hesitant but I needed new ones as the steel ones arent all that smooth and get gouged and pitted fairly easily. I wanted to try something else so I got the aluminum. If they are a bust Ill try the Titanium next.
Hey were is the PIC...? Sounds like a beauty & a beast........
Would you go flip my truck back over??
Dont want to post pics with her guts strewn all over the place but here are a few quickies with how she is sitting right now. Still have work to do! Ill take some nice photos with a real camera when she is done.
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looking good JT cant wait to see it complete and some speed run vids
6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s
There you go........ so a little info on the RD logics silver Aluminum tranny housing..
Would you go flip my truck back over??
I was looking for trannys on fleabay and saw this one listed with the innards in it too. The fleatailers have them listed for $90 plus shipping for just the housing and they are all blue, Im sick of seeing blue parts. This private seller had it listed and it sat in my watch list until the last day. I offered up $50 bucks and now its in my ERBE. Disassembled it when I got it, gears were all good, bearings left a bit to be desired and I didnt like the front to back play on the output shaft. Put in ceramic bearings and shimmed the output shaft with one 6mm teflon washer on the front, perfection. Smooth as it gets. The entire tranny assemblies usually go for $40 or more and most of the buy nows are over $50 so I think it was a great deal. Looks sweet too, silver on black! I deanodized the ugly blue motor mount and for now it has flat back header paint on it but I ordered up the home powder coat kit and I have a sneaky suspicion its going to turn red....Im going for all black, silver or red so the shocks will need something done. Been thinking about getting red bodies and black springs.
Note I left the wheels on so you cant see the ugly blue integy knuckles! LOL
Already have the tekno carriers assembled, just waiting for the 6x16x5 outer bearings.
Still up in the air on the pushrods and toe links. Been pondering Lunsford titanium for one or the other or both.
i really like my traxxas tubes much stronger than i anticipated and easier to adjust
6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s
I hear ya, Im not displeased....just going to be bored when Ive replaced everything on the truck! LOL I enjoy building as much as running them. I offered up to do spec builds for the mechanically challenged in the market place but folks are expecting to get them for less than what I have in the parts. Wasnt looking to make money, just something to build and recoupe the cost of the parts. Probably got 50 pms from folks wanting a stocker RTR with all new parts for under $500.![]()
Hahahahahaha that's hilarious I enjoy building as well.... Let me know wen you start selling these $900 tricks for $500![]()
6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s
LOL, Ill be sure to include myself on the mailing list too! Maybe I can figure out a way to cheat myself and still come out ahead if I do it through offshore accounts and time the exhange rate just right!![]()
Thats not even the bad part, they wanted top rated LIPOs and a $150 charger too included in the $500 tag!
I was born one night but it wasnt last night and like I said, I wasnt even looking to turn a profit. Just something I enjoy doing and do it at cost.
i hear you the lipos and charger will almost cost that.
6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s
I know this is your onroad, but do you think it's good for a 60ft jump?
One mans garbage is another mans ungarbage" -Ricky
Woah, looks nice!
btw, thats one huge motor heatsink! Does it perform well?
Well, probably better than the stock chassis. Top and bottom plates are actually pretty thick, same as stock chassis at 3.5mm only its made of heat treated 7068 aluminum where the stock chassis is....well....Plastic. The infamous gorrilla chassis is cheaper aluminum and is only 2.25mm thick. Before I even put it together I tried to bend it by and at the high stress points on the front and rear between the shocks mounts and the ends of the chassis. Im not the strongest man in the world but not a weakling either and I couldnt bend it at these points by hand. It was even difficult to get it to flex and deflect a little from end to end. Once Im done with the build I intend to run it through the paces to see what it will take. But in the initial inspection and assembly I would say it will do better than the stocker.
Heres a vid clip of a build of an older version that used a weaker alloy and was not as thick. Looks like it faired pretty good to me. No 60 ft jumps int he vid but several bad nose dives that cartwheeled it that is worse that a good landing on a 60ft jump. Personally Ive never seen anyone pull off a 60ft jump but this vid is pretty close.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqPt0KS2CtI
I dont see myself doing that anyhow. Pretty elaborate and extreme.
http://kershawdesigns.com/E-Revo-Chassis2.1-Movie.htm
Thanks,
Havent tested it yet but it flat moves some air. with the fans running you can feel the air that is defelcted and comes out from under the top plates moving at a pretty good clip. When I get it done and run it I intend to do some with/without comparisons.
Last edited by JustinThyme; 02-23-2013 at 05:58 PM.
hey dude that is one AWESOME build.you are making me want to do mine over again
Thanks Hottrodd. Its getting better by the minute. I got anxious and probably wont be running it before my 6x16x5 bearings come in from boca so tonight the ugly blue integy knuckles went bye bye. Folks tend to shudder when integy is mentioned but truth be know they knuckles anyhow are every bit as good as the STRC, they look like they were made fron the same CNC program. I didnt like the stockers in the least, mostly due to the small outer bearing and cooking though several before I changed them out. I only snagged the integy because some one was selling them NIP for dirt cheap, $20 for the set of 4. I tried for a very long time to get the STRC red HD knuckles but they have been on back order everywhere for months, along with pretty much everything else that is red. These Teknos look and feel awesome. The multiple ackerman positions, the pivot ball retainers and the set screws that hold the pivot ball cap in place and keep it from backing out are all a plus. They are also nice and meaty! Other than the bearings from Boca about the only thing I have left to do is solder up the motor leads to the motor but Im still contemplating excatly how Im going to route them. Once thats done and the bearings are in it will be ready to run but still have other stuff to do. The HPP hexes and motor brace are still in transit from Germany so they may take awhile. It wasnt worth the postage to get them expedited, darn near as much as the hexes cost!
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What Cvds are those
6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s
I think better off! Had a few break too taking the rpm arm with it when I couldn't get it out
MIP 11101's
got them here
Last edited by JustinThyme; 02-23-2013 at 10:28 PM.
wow i like those tekno carriers.looks like they did the same thing i did to my carriers to stop the caps from backing out by using a set screw.i just drilled a hole in the sides and used to tiny screws that i had on hand.for some reason i had the fronts just keep backing out so i got fed up and fixed it.now i see those and all the other upgrades they have i'll be ordering some myself.i had the hpp motor brace on one of mine and it was a big pain in the butt so i took it off.almost all the erevos i own have hpp hexes on them.i love em. its sad you dont like blue since thats my favorite color but i understand it.now i'm looking at my kershaw one i built ready to change it around but i have one to build for my grandsons 10th bday so that comes first.not gonna be anything special just a brushed version and blue rpm arms.i wish traxxas or somebody would make a white dyeable chassis because he wanted that blue but i dont see it happening.btw has anyone tried the titanium pillow balls?
i did mine a while back and showed it to him and i asked him if he wanted it like mine and he said if it can't be blue leave it grey
keep up the great work Justin all looks awesome and sometimes we all have to figure stuff out for ourselves
Said he tried titanium without any luck but dont know what the problem was. Other than aluminum ones snapping I dont like the surface on them. Not polished at all so they dont move inside the cups freely. If you back off enough to where they arent binding they are too loose and have in/out play. If they break easily thats just two strikes against them.
It's coming together nicely mate.
Rock n Rolla !
Mailman was good to me today.
Received bearings from Boca for the Tekno knuckles and I was suprised to get the HPP order from Germany.
I dont know if its a cumlative thing or not but the HPP hexes seem too tight if I torque them down.
Not using stock axles, not using stock carriers and now the HPP hexes.
Anyone running the HPP hexes notice this?
They are fine if I tighten them down to the point I can hold the hex by hand but when I put the wheel on and go for the last umph they are too tight.
Havent put the loctite on yet, just a dry run. Anyone chime in on this?
Last edited by JustinThyme; 02-26-2013 at 06:17 PM.
Hm, i can probably check mine tomorrow as i expect to have them by tomorrow. Did you use the washer(there is one for each hex, right?)
Yes, I tried with and without. Removing the washer only made it worse.
The directions are a bit misleading. One one hand it says hand tight but then it shows putting the wheel on to tighen but still says hand tight. Mabye its only meant to be snugged and the reason for the loctite?
Not much to installing the HPP hex adapters...don't over tighten or you will be using a hack saw to remove...been there.
Rock n Rolla !
Thanks Mitch. Guess what Ill do is install them and just tighten the center nut snug. Thats what I was figuring as no matter how you slice it if you tighten them down all the way, washer, no washer, teflon washer, .01 shim it all comes out the same. The loctite should hold the center nut in place.