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  1. #161
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    Apr 2011
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    waterloo .on.canada
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    okay.... batt's in, servo's in, body is in, and tires are in.

    first to the servo. it's the 0231mg and shows as extra tall. in at 42.9mm as to stock at 38.1mm so a 5mm height difference. would I be able to "drop" the servo and mount it underneath the chassis? since I'm using the P-L front shock tower I'm out of luck if I want a bigger servo....


    tires I got 2.2" trencher Ts and am planning to stretch them onto a 2.8" all star rim. since they are such a smaller tire(2.1" vs 2.8" with the 30 series tires) there should hardly be any body rub since they are that much smaller.

    speaking about the body. I got it, did a rough trim. and set it on. to my dismay I'm going to convert my chassis over to a rustler chassis. to compensate for the wheel base. I got every thing already all I need is a tie rod from servo horn to servo saver, and something to hold the battery down, and I've came to a decision on the paint scheme I'm going to go flex seal white. with Tamiya red and flex seal black pin or racing stripes.


    ummm ya probably get the stuff changed over by the end of this week. and report back with progress pics and a pic of my rear tie rod relocation, that I had to do due to flex of the rpm a arm's
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  2. #162
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    Apr 2011
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    update 1 of 3

    hey guys got some things changed over on the pede. and took some pic's..... so time to put out the posts.....



    first I had mentioned about needing to change location of the rear tie rods. basically the situation is that with the gtr shocks being just that much bigger. it left no room for the tie rod in the event of the rpm a arm flexing. making the shock the tie rod stop. and maybe this is a reason to why the stock shock shafts blow out sometimes. but just my theory.

    here is what I did. I just mounted the tie rods on the rear of the axle carrier instead. but it doesn't come without different problems. if your using 48p or a gear cover it wont work out for you due to the rod position and flex. also it puts up a good strain on the shock tower too. but over all the tie rod isn't hitting the shock any more


    and the damage to the threads


    ///////////////////

    next thing I have lined up is fitting the 2.2" trencher T's (p#10121-00) onto the 2.8" vxl rims.




    I figured it out on how and where to cut to achieve a good beadles tire. and will try to explain in the next couple of pictures

    so we start with three pieces. tire, rim, foam.



    to start off with the tire.
    what I used to cut the bead material off with is just your run of the mill lexan scissor. running between the inner corner the 2.2'' bead and the side wall of the tire( detail pic later).

    Last edited by reod12x2; 12-24-2015 at 05:37 PM.
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  3. #163
    RC Champion
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    Apr 2011
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    update 2 of 3

    and this is the "inner corner" I was talking about. when cutting you want to almost cut at a 45 degree angle to the side wall. while stretching the top of the tire with your index an middle finger. while stretching the bottom down with your thumb and ring finger. with the ring finger having tension on the removed piece of the bead. so that the cut is as clean as possible. and with the tension on the cut piece of bead will sort of act as a 45 degree guide since often time the blade of the scissors will be parallel to the flat part of the bead



    here is the cut with the tire turned in side out. so you can see the corner or fold. and unlike in the pic this is where you want to cut along the inside of the tire's side wall.


    and here we have a finished tire
    note a clean cut tire will be easier to seat and manipulate so if there is any extra it would help to clean it up.

    and the next part is straight forward and the hardest part too. putting the tire/foam onto the rim. now the concept is easy and straight forward, taking your time and helping the foam on since it doesn't need to be cut. but there has to be attention paid to detail. with this rim the foam sits between the grooves of the bead area. and with the tire/foam being stretched on there isn't as much room for play so the tire may be over just a bit. and need to be manipulated over the foam and that the tire isn't overly wide. so there is a lack of liberty when seating the bead.

    also I recommend mounting said tire on the front of the truck and go for a easy run. this will help to message the foam and tire into place so there isn't as much wobble. this is coming from experience with doing the 2.8" tire on a 3.2" rim..... I put the tire/foam on messaged it into place and glued. what I didn't know was the foam on 3/4 tires was out of place and ended up burning a ring in the tires tread.
    Last edited by reod12x2; 12-24-2015 at 05:38 PM.
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  4. #164
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    update 3 of 3

    and here we are a tire that has minimal wobble and seated


    and a bit of comparison pics....( 2.8"masher- 2.2" trencher T- 2.8" trencher)



    and here's where I am currently
    still waiting for the glue to dry on the tires. when they're done I will post up the pic's of them on the truck for another size comparison to the trenchers.


    coming up next I will try and fit the shell. and shoe horn in the savox 0231mg servo.
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  5. #165
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    Apr 2011
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    waterloo .on.canada
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    sorry guys had a couple posts lined up a while ago and I lost them. but will try to do an update tonight.

    I did get the servo in and its working well and no brown outs reported other then bench testing. also the bump steer is scary in the corners. when I hammering through a corner the truck will go over a sway and that compression gives the front end ... not over steer.. but it makes the turn radius crazy tight.

    tires are working well, althought i should of left some more bead on the tire and made it work some how. since there isn't much surface area for the glue to work its magic


    and lastly I've hit a snag with the shell and am open for advice, the rear body mounts need to be at a angle instead of straight up. and what I make needs to be bash proof too. I've thought about using some L bar aluminum and drilling holes throught it and make it like some kind of adapter plate. anyways I will show you tonight
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

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