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  1. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    I am sorry. He had the FLM aluminum differential cup not Hot Racing. I apologise if my error caused anyone any troubles. He has had that differential cup for quite some time. I don't know what kind of maintenance he does to it but it has been solid for a long while.
    No worries bro. Yeah I could only find one aluminum center diff cup which is the FLM. I'll probably try it out. Seems like everywhere is out of stock. Which means it has to be drop shipped from FLM itself. I hate waiting, when I bought my FLM extended rustler chassis I had to wait three weeks.
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  2. #162
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    Ok, so since we're talking about diffs, let me ask a question. I did the Tmaxx driveshaft mod to my slash in the rear. Since the maxx shafts have 6mm holes i put in a set of revo gears into the diff so i would have 6mm outdrives. I have 7000 oil in the diff. It's locked up. Like even before i install it into the truck i can barely turn it with two hex drivers through the holes. I thought maybe it was the diff cup. So i got in an actual revo diff cup with the steel plates on the sides that the pin rides in. No help. I really dont know why it's doing this. My front diff, which is stock, is butter smooth. any ideas? the gears appear to be in good shape.

  3. #163
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    You didn't over tighten the screws did you? That will cause the gears to bind.
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  4. #164
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    I thought about that. But no they're not to tight. It's been this way in two different diff cups. Gears look good, no missing teeth.

    Yeah...that was a fart

  5. #165
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    I had that happen when I accidentally put one too mant fiber washers on the output shaft when I rebuilt my first differential. You may want to check, I believe it is the side with the drive gear. Double check the instructions on how it goes together.
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  6. #166
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    I'll check it, but I'm pretty sure there's just the one washer and then the blue seals

  7. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    I had that happen when I accidentally put one too mant fiber washers on the output shaft when I rebuilt my first differential. You may want to check, I believe it is the side with the drive gear. Double check the instructions on how it goes together.
    Yep, that will do it, I did the same thing, I was wondering why there were no washers in the diff when I did the conversion, added them locked it all up and seized solid. Striped it down and found the existing washers were very hard to see, but they were there along with the new set I put in.
    Learn by experience I guess, just lucky that we checked them before install and switching the motor on.
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  8. #168
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by honda95freek View Post
    I'll check it, but I'm pretty sure there's just the one washer and then the blue seals
    Have you found the reason for the binding? If you could add a picture or two it would help us to better aid you in the diagnosis of the problem.
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  9. #169
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    I haven't had a chance to dig into it yet. Works been busy this week. I might here after bit. I'll take some pics and check it out. Thanks for all the suggestions guys

    Yeah...that was a fart

    I just took it all apart. Everything was put together right. When i put in the out drive gear that sits in the bottom of the cup as I turn it by hand I can ever so slightly feel it catch on the diff cup, I think. I took a file to the gear and gently filed the edges of the gear. Didn't really help much lol, 20 minutes wasted.

    I put it back together with minimal oil and and it was bound up again. I chucked it up in my drill and put a hex driver through the other output shaft. Talk about tight. Ran it for about a minute as fast as the drill would go. It was bogged down quite a bit, stressing the drill. The ring gear was too hot to touch!

    I don't know what's up with this diff. I've built my fair share of diffs before and never had one like this. I would just put the stock gears back in but I need the 6mm outputs to fit my tmaxx axles properly. This was originally a Stampede 4x4. The Pede tires were killing my driveshafts, whole reason for the tmaxx axle conversion. I plan on finishing the conversion with Slash bumpers and then will proly just run sct tires on it. I haven't had any issues yet with drives shafts on my LCG Slash.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 05-11-2013 at 04:34 PM. Reason: merge

  10. #170
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    Hey guys, will post a pic later of the install cause I know everyone loves pics.
    Just put in my FLM motor mount and alloy centre diff, wow looks good. The first thing you notice is how much protection the motor mount design gives the seal face of the bearing that runs on the centre driveline side compared to the stock design. You can barely see the seal face, where as with stock almost all of the seal is exposed. Secondly is the bearing size, before it all arrived I looked at the measurement and went "Yeah, that bearing is a little bigger" but it is not until you sit both bearings on top of each other that you think "Why haven't Traxxais changed this design" .
    I have read where members have machined their mount out to take the larger bearing, that will work, but you will not have the enclosure to protect the seal face, I was going to machine mine out and give to a mate, but advised him to spend the coin and buy new mount.
    Bit off topic, but also threw in Teckno big Bone centre drive shaft, again the first thing I noticed is how quiet the truck is now.
    Thanks to everyone on the post, as they say in the movies "it wouldn't have been possible without you".

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  11. #171
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Well I have been trying to get the parts together to build my differentials but my eBay account is not working for whatever reason. Does anyone know of a site that has the parts in stock? This is driving me crazy I had to wait to get money freed up, now I have to money and I cannot find the parts!
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  12. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    Well I have been trying to get the parts together to build my differentials but my eBay account is not working for whatever reason. Does anyone know of a site that has the parts in stock? This is driving me crazy I had to wait to get money freed up, now I have to money and I cannot find the parts!
    Have you found your parts yet?? I used Traxxas E-Max plastic diff cups and gear sets so finding them was no problem, but to find a single supplier that stocks all parts needed is a real headache. My FLM gear came from mega-rc_guy on E-bay, not sure if he has everything you will need, but worth a look.

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  13. #173
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Well like I said, that would be no problem except I cannot get onto my eBay account. So I would like to know if there is another site that carries the parts needed for the upgrade?
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  14. #174
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    I thought you have them by now don't worry El Sob your not alone, me too don't have it yet but I have them on my ebay watch lol.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/400488986907...84.m1438.l2648

    i'm still running my stock XO-1 diffs and find nothing wrong with it.

  15. #175
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    I think I found my problem. I had ordered in the wrong gears. Sigh, rookie mistake. I have T-maxx gears. While it seems like they fit properly in the diff cup, they must be just a tad bit larger. Once the ring gear gets tightened down there isn't enough room for them to spin. The T-maxx diff cup must be just a bit taller. Ordering in a Erevo diff today. Should take care of my issue. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

  16. #176
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by honda95freek View Post
    I think I found my problem. I had ordered in the wrong gears. Sigh, rookie mistake. I have T-maxx gears. While it seems like they fit properly in the diff cup, they must be just a tad bit larger. Once the ring gear gets tightened down there isn't enough room for them to spin. The T-maxx diff cup must be just a bit taller. Ordering in a Erevo diff today. Should take care of my issue. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
    I think you might want to order an X-01 gearset. I know when I finally resolve whatever problem eBay is having with my account, it will be the X-01 parts that I use to build my differentials with.
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  17. #177
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    I used E-Max gear set and diff housing for front and rear, I haven't done alloy front or rear yet.
    Keep on Bashing and you will keep on Trashing

  18. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    I think you might want to order an X-01 gearset. I know when I finally resolve whatever problem eBay is having with my account, it will be the X-01 parts that I use to build my differentials with.
    I have tmaxx axles in the rear. I needed the erevo gear set bc they have 6mm outputs rather than the 5mm on regular gears. I got it back together and all is good now.

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  19. #179
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    Received a couple of XO-1 diffs and HR Diff Cups in the mail and went to work putting everything together:

    The Guts:


    Twins:


    Now I need to find some time to install these bullet proof diffs in the car. Might be time for maintenance and some needed cleaning.

  20. #180
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALopezJr View Post
    Received a couple of XO-1 diffs and HR Diff Cups in the mail and went to work putting everything together:

    The Guts:


    Twins:


    Now I need to find some time to install these bullet proof diffs in the car. Might be time for maintenance and some needed cleaning.
    Those look beautiful! Could you post the links to all of the parts you bought? I like the blue, looks almost too nice to hide inside the housing.
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  21. #181
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    Thanks:

    I got 2 of these:
    http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/servlet/...RENTIAL/Detail

    And 2 of these:
    http://www.hobbyetc.com/item.cgi?part_id=58360

    Plus what ever diff fluid and thread locker you use.

  22. #182
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALopezJr View Post
    Thanks:

    I got 2 of these:
    http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/servlet/...RENTIAL/Detail

    And 2 of these:
    http://www.hobbyetc.com/item.cgi?part_id=58360

    Plus what ever diff fluid and thread locker you use.
    Thank you very much for putting the links up. I see I need to hurry and snap those parts up. My eBay has been messed up now for a few months now and all the websites I go to for those parts have been sold out for months. So hopefully I can now build my bulletproof differentials!
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  23. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    Thank you very much for putting the links up. I see I need to hurry and snap those parts up. My eBay has been messed up now for a few months now and all the websites I go to for those parts have been sold out for months. So hopefully I can now build my bulletproof differentials!
    The cups were sold out and it looks like they got some in. Also the diffs sell out pretty fast.

  24. #184
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    I am going back to plastic. Never had a problem with them leaking. Went with FLM front and rear and after 15 packs the both leak. Both cups leak on the cup side where the shaft goes through for the axle cup. I bought the I bar for inside and assembled them correctly. It seems as though the steel shaft wears on the cup and enlarges the hole and diff fluid leaks. Thought maybe my fault with set up so rebuilt both with new seals and fluid same problem.

  25. #185
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    May I ask a question? Do you have FLM or Hot Racing? I am sorry you have had a problem getting your differentials to seal. Can you contact the manufacture and get a get a replacement?
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  26. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    May I ask a question? Do you have FLM or Hot Racing? I am sorry you have had a problem getting your differentials to seal. Can you contact the manufacture and get a get a replacement?
    FLM. I am done with it. I liked the aluminum idea as far as not plastic. But having to shorten screws for the front diff cup and now the leaking problem when I actually never had a problem with the plastic.

  27. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by pro mod steve View Post
    FLM. I am done with it. I liked the aluminum idea as far as not plastic. But having to shorten screws for the front diff cup and now the leaking problem when I actually never had a problem with the plastic.
    I understand your frustration and respect you for letting everyone else know how things worked out for you. I am probably going to to with Hot Racing parts when I do mine. You should remally contact the manufacture and let them know your problem. You may get a refund, cannot hurt.
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  28. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by pro mod steve View Post
    FLM. I am done with it. I liked the aluminum idea as far as not plastic. But having to shorten screws for the front diff cup and now the leaking problem when I actually never had a problem with the plastic.
    +1 with FLM, I am lucky as I stayed with the plastic cups, however I went with FLM centre diff. As you guys have already read in other threads I have had a horrible run lately to the point of snapping a motor shaft. I must admit I blamed a lot of it on chassis flex and still believe chassis flex affects the centre drive bearing, but I think I found the major contributing factor, The FLM alloy centre diff. The output shaft tube on the traxxas cup is 10mm and the FLM is only 5mm, the output shaft does not get enough support and wobbles.

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  29. #189
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    So we have found that FLM makes crap parts. I am sincerely sorry for that. My next question is what experience are people having with their Hot Racing parts? I want to hear either way because I still want to know whether or not the aluminum differential cups are worth the time and money.
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  30. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    So we have found that FLM makes crap parts. I am sincerely sorry for that. My next question is what experience are people having with their Hot Racing parts? I want to hear either way because I still want to know whether or not the aluminum differential cups are worth the time and money.
    For the record I won't say they make crap parts. They may be fine in other applications BUT didn't work for me and I am just passing on my experience with said part for public knowledge. And NO EL SOB I hold nothing against you assuming or otherwise that I said so. They just didn't work out. For the record I am an ANIMAL when I bash. There is no love given. I am out to have fun at parts and or trucks expense. When I go out for a bash session the only part throttle the truck sees is to check steering trim after that its WIDE OPEN till I'm out of batteries. If FLM wanted to find a breaking point I AM IT. As far as MONEY I am going to run the factory plastic cups and add the I bar. At 3 bucks a rebuild and no leaks works for me.
    Last edited by pro mod steve; 07-05-2013 at 11:14 PM.

  31. #191
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    The reason I said they make crap parts is because I have read in several different sites and forums that they have had problems with their differentials. The people at my lhs say not to buy them when I was going to order the parts from them. I have heard too many different people for too many different places say that their parts were not quality . Most also said that they recieved no response to emails to the company about their la k luster parts. I could be completely wrong and if someone can enlighten me with stories of positivity I welcome that whole heartedly. You are not the only person who bashes their truck hard. I beat on mine good! She always comes back for more. That is why I am for Traxxas 1,000%! Their products get put through the most horrible treatment and are ready to go whenever the trigger is pulled
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  32. #192
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Team arsy car View Post
    [IMG][/IMG]
    My HR diff cup in my eSlayer had a failed bearing I caught to late...the damage looked similar. I put a new bearing in and its all good...unfortunately aluminium is very soft and when bearings fail they take the damage.


    =====
    =====
    Rock n Rolla !

  33. #193
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    El Sob, I blew a diff bearing the other day (easy fix) and I replaced all the bearings in the rear diff, for they were all going bad. But I also use 100,000wt fluid and I love it! I have some videos of it on loose dirt and gravel

  34. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by wild_basher99 View Post
    El Sob, I blew a diff bearing the other day (easy fix) and I replaced all the bearings in the rear diff, for they were all going bad. But I also use 100,000wt fluid and I love it! I have some videos of it on loose dirt and gravel
    I have found 100,000 wt is just awesome for traction! Like with the stock grease, you can only hold a wheelie for so long. The rear end diffs out and it doesn't hold the truck in the air. With the 100,000 you ca. A wheelie for a long time without the truck swerving side to side. Did the bad bearing do anything to the aluminum differential case? Have you had any other problems?
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  35. #195
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    The FLM centre diff housing I thought at the time was a nice piece of engineering, and for all intensive purposes it still is, If I get an answer back on the output shaft tube being to short I will post it.
    Damage from blown bearings is another factor all together, Elsob if you are not blowing bearings then alloy might be for you, but if you are blowing bearings then you will want to cry when the inner race takes out your nice shiny anodised diff cup.
    I'm with Steve on the plastic cups for now with the I-Beam installed for front and rear, I would love to maintain an alloy centre diff for the track but may have to continue using the stock plastic cup until I find an alternative. I must note that I prefer alloy in the centre as I feel it is an area that requires heat dissipation more than anywhere else on the truck, I have not destroyed a bearing on the front or rear diffs yet (touch wood) LOL.
    Keep on Bashing and you will keep on Trashing

  36. #196
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    Nope! The housings and cups were ok! And yes, gotta love that 100,000 wt grease!

  37. #197
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    Also, did you successfully get the old grease out? If you have not, just get an old toothbrush and some gasoline. Pour some gas on the toothbrush and scrub your housings and gears. Do not worry about the plastic melting, for it is Traxxas quality plastic. It comes out like brand new! Good luck!

  38. #198
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    Took apart rear FLM diff cup tonight to replace the leaker with a new Traxxas plastic one. WOW what a mess it was full of fluid but the small gears on the pin outside the I bar had started to eat the cup. The drivengear that goes through the cup ate the blue seal o-ring and started chewing on the inside of the cup. Never had that happen with plastic even BEFORE I installed the I bar support. When I assemble my diffs I grease the blue O-rings or seals before install to prevent dry run or damage.

  39. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by pro mod steve View Post
    Took apart rear FLM diff cup tonight to replace the leaker with a new Traxxas plastic one. WOW what a mess it was full of fluid but the small gears on the pin outside the I bar had started to eat the cup. The drivengear that goes through the cup ate the blue seal o-ring and started chewing on the inside of the cup. Never had that happen with plastic even BEFORE I installed the I bar support. When I assemble my diffs I grease the blue O-rings or seals before install to prevent dry run or damage.
    That's how mine came apart as well, I had to put a new gear set into the plastic cup because the gears were so bad, no seals left at all, and next to no oil left in there. I Haven't heard from FLM yet, I am sure they will rectify the issue.
    Keep on Bashing and you will keep on Trashing

  40. #200
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    I am sorry to hear that others are still having problems with flm. Does anyone have anything to report about Hot Racing? I am extremel curious to see if those parts are worth buying. I am also on pins and needles to hear the response from from flm about the quality ( or lack there of ) of their products. I hope you are at least offered a refund.
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