Thanks!! I love the Maximizer beadlocks, for me they are easier than gluing and are well constructed. The bead hasn't popped out at all. I am looking forward to see how they hold up with 5s once I get my new brushless system, I don't think there will be any issues. The downside is that the beadlocks are 3.2" wheels so tire choices are limited. I wish that Proline would make 3.2" tires again. I don't care for the size of the 3.8" rims, they are just to big. They make the monster truck look more like a donk. Fortunately I have been buying every set of 3.2" Mashers that come up on eBay. These should last me awhile.
I have found a couple more sets on other websites but I usually find them cheaper on eBay. The set in the older style package only cost me $15.50 + shipping. I also have a set of Proline 3.2" Maxx Sand Paddle tires on the way to try out when it snows, I got them for cheap with rims but will put them on the beadlocks when the time comes.
those landings off of the ramp are going to destroy your emaxx. straight down landing ouch!! painful to watch. talk about abuse!!
I would be curious to see how well they hold up also. I've read so many mixed reviews about tire beadlocks with brushless motors. Guess it just depends on the quality of the bead I guess lol. Either way great looking truck! Maybe I'll get a pair of beadlocks if your's hold up nicely.
We can't land them all so perfect. Seems to me most of them were pretty good landings though.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Some of the landings weren't very good but I put parts on the truck so that it would be able to take the abuse and keep on going. The only part I broke during that video was the end of the rear skid which I don't need since I have the TBR rear bumper. I actually still use the skid, it broke off almost perfectly at the edge of the bulkhead. Now its just a spacer and a little more support for the bottom of the bulkheads.
It will probably be around the end of the year when I get my new brushless system. I have been asking the wife to get me a Tekin system for Christmas lol.
Lol hopefully she will delivery! Just in case it may be time to visit the mall and sit on Santa's lap lol
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
I have updates!! A lot of work to do still I have to install the receiver box and make a rear driveshaft but progress has been made. There is a 3905 and above transmission in my plastic 3906 chassis! The gearing is just for testing I will be running a 62t spur and probably a 24t pinion, the 54t spur wouldn't work there was no way it would mesh. The biggest problem that I still have to figure out is battery placement. The plate for the slipper sticks out into the battery compartment. I'm either going to mount some battery boxes or have some custom ones made that will extend the depth of the stock battery trays. I will post more pictures tomorrow!
![]()
Last edited by Zane_Grey; 10-11-2013 at 10:20 PM.
Receiver box mounted! I took me a little while to figure out the positioning but its done. Just like the last time I mounted the box I used some nylon post that I cut from pieces that came with my TBR bumpers. The post have a hole drilled through them and are screwed to the chassis from the bottom. I think it turned out pretty good.
![]()
Looks great man. I like the mix of alloy and plastic in your build.
Sent from Oser world
Thank you! I wanted to build something unique. It would have been a lot easier to buy an aluminum chassis and just bolt everything on but that has been done before many times and I have grown fond of the shorter wheelbase of the stock chassis. I haven't seen a newer transmission mounted in a plastic 3906 chassis so I thought it would be a great challenge. The FLM transmission adapter did make the installation a little bit easier but I had to do a lot of modifying to the chassis to make it work. I think I have figured out how to use the stock battery locations, so I will be doing some more cutting!
Last edited by Zane_Grey; 10-12-2013 at 12:37 PM.
Well I got one side of the battery trays done, no more rubbing. I cut the bottom out of the stock battery tray then drilled a hole through the bottom of the chassis using the stock hold down posts as guides. This allowed me to screw a shouldered screw into the bottom of the chassis to attach the bottom holder. I ended up having all the parts I needed laying around, the shouldered screws came with the hold downs TRA3923. I had to order another set of hold downs so I can do the same to the other side. This does leave my batteries a little exposed at the bottom but they are still higher than the center so I am not worried about them getting hit. I may add a piece of lexan later on.
![]()
Ran a full pack through the 3906 today and everything worked great. Well except the rear center shaft. I made another one out of Revo wheel shafts, it didn't break but the yokes were twisted when I was done. I ordered a dogbone for the rear center, it will be here next week. I'm kinda sad that I have done almost every modification that I set out to do to the 3906. The only other thing that I can think of that will require some modifications to the chassis is installing the two speed conversion. I guess I will have to start modifying my son's 1/16 Grave Digger.
I finished the battery trays today and took the E-Maxx out for some bashing, it performed great! It still needs more speed, just waiting for my pinion and spur to get here. The only thing I will have to replace is the body. It was already cracking then my son tried to backflip the truck and finished it off.
I was going to start working on the servo mount for the two speed conversion but I ordered some parts instead. My steering was getting really sloppy, the servo saver wasn't stiff enough and the plastic parts were starting to wear. I ordered a Hot Racing aluminum bellcrank, you can adjust the servo saver and I think it will work really well. I also ordered some new bulkheads. I have been using the Traxxas aluminum bulkheads but they are starting to wear. I decided to try out a set of ACNCM bulkheads. I will post some pictures after I receive the parts and get everything installed.
Last edited by Zane_Grey; 10-19-2013 at 08:44 PM.
I seem to end up with a lot of tires, my latest eBay win:
I sniped this auction and won it for $27.00 plus shipping, I paid more for my last set of Paddle Maxx tires alone. The seller had the auction for the paddles and rims but was throwing in the beadlocks/tires because one of hexes on the Maximizer beadlocks was stripped out. Great thing about Maximizer's beadlocks is you can just change out the faceplate and they only cost $5.95. New black Maximizer Beadlocks cost $29.95 for two! I don't know if I will use the HPI tires they are in great shape but are a little big for me.
I got the Hot Racing bellcrank and new bulkheads installed. There is a lot less slop in the steering now, I just need to adjust the servo saver spring tension a little. I really like the ACNCM bulkheads they look more solid than my Traxxas ones and don't feel like they weigh much more. The only issue I have right now is my rear diff has some side to side play in the bulkhead. I ordered some shims from McMaster Carr but ordered the wrong size. Once I get the right size and get the truck put back together I'll post some pictures.
Finally have the internet back and some time to post some updates, feels like its been awhile! I think its time to post an updated parts list, would be nice if I could edit the OP.....
ACNCM front and rear bulkheads
Avid Bearings
Castle Creations motor cooling fan
Driveshafts: Front E-Maxx 3905-08 cvd, Rear HPI 77mm dogbone
FLM 3905-08 Transmission adapter
Hobbywing SC8 WP
Hyper 7 Diffs w/ Unlimited Engineering Ultralite cases
Lunsford titanium hinge pins
LST XXL wheelshafts
Maximizer 3.2" 17mm 1/2 offset beadlock rims
Motor 2100kv 4-pole
Newer Emaxx steering with servo saver built in / Part of a Hot Racing bellcrank and stiffer black spring
Newer Emaxx Transmission w/RRP 22t pinion and 65t spur
Proline Maxx Masher Tires
RPM Arms front
RPM Bulkhead Braces (Emaxx came with these already installed)
RPM Center Skid
RPM True-Track Rear
STRC front steering knuckles machined for bigger bearings
T-Bone Racing Bumpers front and rear
Tony's Screws used throughout the truck
Traxxas 2.4GHz transmitter modded to 3 channel and waterproof receiver box
Unlimited Engineering Knucklehead shock towers
Updates:
I got the rear diff housing shimmed, it has been working great! No side to side movement at all. I wish I could say this about all the upgrades I did! I had installed a Hot Racing bellcrank/servo saver assembly and soon came to regret it. First time out I stripped my HiTech servo in less than five minutes. I had another HiTech servo that needed rebuilt so I ordered a rebuild kit and rebuilt both servos. I thought maybe I had the servo saver to tight so I loosened it as much as I possibly could. Again the first servo stripped because the servo saver wouldn't give. I then installed my second HiTech servo and the screw that holds the servo horn on broke off in the servo. The screw breaking had nothing to do with the Hot Racing part but I wouldn't recommend the part to anyone. The servo saver doesn't work and you will just end up destroying your servos. I ended up reinstalling the Traxxas servo saver assembly and used the black spring and aluminum part that connects to the links that came with the Hot Racing assembly. Right now I am waiting on some eBay items to sell and will be ordering a Savox sw-1210sg servo. I don't want to rebuild the HiTech servos again since they really didn't have the torque I needed.
I'll post some pictures when the truck is fully assembled.
Well I changed my mind about servos. I don't really drive in wet conditions besides during winter and I want a more torque so I decided not to get the sw-1210sg. The only thing that was wrong with my Hi-Tech 5646wp, besides the lack of torque, was the screw that holds the horn on snapped off. I ordered a clamping style horn and will use this servo for winter time. After the snow is done I will be running a Savox SA-1231sg servo with 444oz of torque at 6v.
It started snowing today so I decided to see how the 3906 looks with its snow shoes on. As soon as the new servo horn gets here I will be hitting the drifts.
![]()
where did you get the metal gears for your emaxx tranny? and is that the 3905 tranny?
I bought the gears off eBay, I don't know if they were real or not but they worked. The transmission I am running now is from the newer E-Maxx, I used Fastlane Machine adapters and a dremel to make it fit. The adapters are hard to find but there is a guy on the UE forums that is making some.
Sorry it took me so long to respond I bought a Tamiya TRF 801xt and have been spending a lot of time with it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I received a $50 Amazon gift card for Christmas, it's just been sitting on my computer desk so I finally gave in and ordered a servo. I purchased the Savox 1231SG. I was going to get the 1256TG but decided to go with 1231 because of the massive amounts of torque. Do I really need that much torque? Probably not but hey why not.
Here are the specs on the Savox 1231SG from the Savox site:
Features:
Combines leading edge technology with super high 12 bit (4096) resolution and unique steel gears.
Super light-weight.
Coreless motor provides extremely high speed, incredible efficiency, and low power consumption.
Extremely strong unique steel gears ensure long-life and durability.
The full aluminum case design not only looks good but also allows for cooler and smoother operating temps.
Our servos are totally green – from materials to production, these servos are environmentally friendly.
Ideal for giant scale aircraft, monster truck, 1/8 scale.
Dimensions(mm): 40.3x20.2x45.0
Weight(g): 79.0
Speed(@4.8V sec/60): .18
Torque(@4.8V oz-in): 388.8
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .14
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 444.4
Gear: Unique Steel
Bearing: 2BB
Case: Full Aluminum
25 Tooth Spline
Frequency: 250-333hz
Pulse Width Frequency: 1520
It seems like it has been forever since I updated this thread and a lot has been done. I didn't like how I did the chassis the first time I put the newer transmission in so I bought another chassis and tried a different route, I think it turned out great. I can say that my 3906 is almost complete, I am just waiting on another part that will change the look again. I also am going to get some extended battery posts made from aluminum instead of the nylon posts I used. Enjoy!
![]()
Thank you! This was my first RC and I have only been into them for a year. I accidentally ended up with a 3906 but didn't want to give up on it. As I do with everything I get into I read as much as I could find and started tinkering. I had always wanted one of the stock newer E-Maxx bodies it just took a lot of time and money to get there. I have a couple more things to add to mine a MBX6T wing and some aluminum extended battery posts and it should be done.
The stampede body doesn't look bad at all. I never would have thought of trying one.
Ya I was very surprised the body fit as good as it does. How are you liking the steering servo? I need to upgrade from my Hitec HS645mg into something stronger. I think just my motor in the servo is tired as it is a 10yr old servo.
I really like the servo but if I could do I over again I would get a external bec and run a Solar D772 on 7.4v. I have the Solar in my Tamiya Truggy and running on 7.4v the Solar seems just as strong/fast as the Savox and was a lot cheaper.
My wheels barely turn when stopped on lino. Carpet and forget it, have to be moving to steer but still weak. could be the servo saver also. I will look into the Solar D772. Does the Solar HAVE to run a external bec?
The Solar isn't that great unless ran on 7.4v. If your esc has a high voltage internal bec then you don't need an external one. A member on the URC forums did a lot of testing with the D772 he has videos on YouTube.
I sent you a PM about finding a tranny adapter to use the newer transmission (3903/3908) on the 3906 chassis, please reply if you know who was making them, thanks
Think theres some ultramaxx gears for the 3906 gearbox on ebay
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk
Here in the UK, but Maxx back in New Zealand