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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Stampede 1/8 conversion help

    I'm in the process of making my Stamp a 1/8th Stomper!
    I don't want to use the Alu arms that some off brands make.
    Can someone suggest some longer arms I can use? i.e. will
    the jato or the slash 4x4 or???

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Jato's r the longest, theirs a write up on it on the urc forums. My sl4sh has the protract arms, I believe they are the second longest and don't require any modding. With running mt3 split wheels on it that stick all the way out, makes for a nice wide stance. Here is a pic of how wide

  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    That is awesome: So if I went with the Jato arms, would I have to do any modding? I couldn't find the right link?

  4. #4
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    Dunno as I used proline arms. I`d say go check the write up at ultimaterc forums to be sure. That way u only buy parts u need1

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Any wide conversion for a 2wd pede will require some sort of modification. The simplest swap needs only steering links that are a little longer than a pede 2wd steering link(10mm per link), another set of (2) front xl5 talon tires and rims, and extended c-blocks from RC Solutions. This is the simplest and cheapest conversion I have found.

    The jato arm conversion is about the most involved when it comes to modding.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    I would really recommend the rem 1/8 arms heard nothing but good things about them and I think it wanes it the widest I have a lot of the rem parts and they are solid really well built and its a lifetime warrantee


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  7. #7
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    You'll obviously need a longer chassis, but here's how to do front end.

    Enjoy..

    http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55531
    God is good.

  8. #8
    RC Champion
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    I use the FLM extended arms on my son's rustler. It used to be a pede. FLM offered two different front arms. One is obviously longer than the other and the shorter ones would require front offset wheels with standard offset in the rear to look normal. We used the longer ones up front.

    The plastic equivalent would be stock rear arms up front and protrac rear arms for a 4x4 pede/slash out back. It uses stock pede toe links or front and rear camber links and 83 mm toe links from a hpi trophy truggy for steering. With rustler tires, it measures 14 inches at the widest point in the rear and 13.5 inches up front and will sit on top of a size 10.5 nike box with tires hanging off the edges.

    With a 1 inch extended stampede chassis

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    I use the FLM extended arms on my son's rustler. It used to be a pede. FLM offered two different front arms. One is obviously longer than the other and the shorter ones would require front offset wheels with standard offset in the rear to look normal. We used the longer ones up front.

    The plastic equivalent would be stock rear arms up front and protrac rear arms for a 4x4 pede/slash out back. It uses stock pede toe links or front and rear camber links and 83 mm toe links from a hpi trophy truggy for steering. With rustler tires, it measures 14 inches at the widest point in the rear and 13.5 inches up front and will sit on top of a size 10.5 nike box with tires hanging off the edges.

    With a 1 inch extended stampede chassis
    Are they the 1/8th scale arms up front?

  10. #10
    RC Champion
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    Yes, Bmore, they are FLM24200. They're pretty hard to locate and have to be bought in a separate pair. The FLM widening kit includes the shorter front arms, FLM24100. I got mine from Stormer Hobbies and if you decide to get some, I highly recommend ditching the hardware included to mount them (pins & e clips)

  11. #11
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    I luckily already found a pair and bought them from RCmonster. I'm thinking of putting them on my All FLM rustler. The arms that I have on there now are the "extended" ones, but the front and rear still don't seem to be exactly even when I run all front offset or the GRP tires that I have. I'm hoping the 1/8 arms will even It all up. I have the strc hinge pin set on it so the hardware that came with them is going in te parts bin. Thanks man!!

  12. #12
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    Glad to help I'm using the Anza pins on mine. The inner pins are fine, you'll still want to use a tie bar. The outer pins need to be as long as the rear outer pins, so keep that in mind.

    I believe the 14 inch rear measurement is from the 3* of rear toe in. I can't wait to see your finished product and you'll love the way it drives with those front arms. You may want slightly longer shocks in the front, but if speed is your game, stockers may work just fine.

    Stock big bores with the suspension extended for the camera

  13. #13
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    That thing looks pretty sick man!! You have probably already seen my rustler posted in the picture gallery. This one is my "speed rustler." I have been building and tweaking this thing for about a year but still haven't ran it all out to see how fast I could get it. Waiting on my gps to get delivered tomorrow and that is the final piece to see if I can get this thing up close to 100mph. I have another rustler that I bash with and been upgrading parts on little by little.

  14. #14
    RC Champion
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    Thanks, man. As cool as the pede was, it wasn't as potent as the Rustler is on the race track and that's pretty much all we do now.

    I've definitely seen your build thread and various pics of the rig with other bodies too. It's definitely one of my faves, I have a real soft spot for FLM goodies. Your new lid looks sick as does the pic in general, but I want to warn you! Bashing with the 1/8 wide rustler is great fun, too. You get a little extra wheelbase and when you go to turn, the bulkhead just drops and it turns - and it's super stable. Good luck on the century mark, Bmore.

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