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  1. #1
    RC Competitor
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    Steering questions?

    I have a Revo 2.5 on which I did the steering mod, still need to get a longer servo horn. Anyway I mainly bash and I have only been to the track once but I hope to go more often down the road.

    I noticed that the front tires balloon a bit and instead of turning the car sort of slides due to lack of grip on the front. When bashing this can be fun but sometimes is a pain. At the track this made it harder to steer as either I had to slow down and would over steer or go fast and drive off the track from lack of grip.

    I have the stock tires and I was told that changing the tires to the nob type would make a big difference. I am wondering if switching to a center differential will make a big difference as well and if so should I go with the 500wt oil I keep reading about?

    Any other suggestions/thoughts? Also for now I have the 2.5 engine and I donít know if I will upgrade down the line but if I do that will make the problem worse. Also I donít care about wheelies and I believe the CD will help with that as well.

  2. #2
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    Anyone? I am just getting back into the hobby and I have a bit to learn so I would appreciated any suggestions. THANKS.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. fallonguy's Avatar
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    You can put duct tape on the inside of the tires to help with the ballooning. Another thing is sway bars will help with turning. As for the center differential you can't put the rear brake kit on without modding the 2.5 chassis and the 2.5 transmission doesn't have the mounting points for the rear brake kit. And you do need the rear brake kit or you will only have brakes on the front wheels.
    I wanted to put a really cool signature but I ran

  4. #4
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    Thanks. I guess the center differential is out. I am thinking of switching the steering servos with the new 2075's that have more torque. Might help a little.

    I have sway bars and it does make a difference. I am running the green springs in the front and tan in the rear. I wonder if I need stiffer springs in the rear to keep the tires on the ground more? Also better tires than stock will help.

    Small things but I wonder if there is something that will make a bigger difference? Instead of duct tape should I get heavier rims when I get new tires?

  5. #5
    RC Champion
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    Let me start out by saying I prefer the 2.5 chassis over the 3.3 chassis. And, I will try to keep my suggestions economical, while trying to answer all your issues.

    Heavier rims will only slow you down. The duct tape suggestion is really only to remedy the stock tires ballooning. Most aftermarket tires are already reinforced to limit ballooning. The issue is that the 2.5 chassis vehicle uses 14mm wheel hubs, and your wheel/tire chooses are limited. Traxxas offers 17mm adapters (TRA5353X), that will give you access to a larger pool of aftermarket wheels/tires. If you have the $, aftermarket axle carriers with 17mm hubs are the way to go (less slop). I buy AKA pre-mounted tires, but there are plenty of options when you run 17mm hubs.

    Don't ditch the idea of the center diff just yet. All that is needed is the transmission case from the newer Revo's (TRA5391R), and of course the rear brake kit (TRA5417). The rear brake arm requires a small notch (about 1/2" x 1/4") into the chassis. If I recall correctly, instructions are included with the brake kit showing where to put the notch. Its a piece of cake. Upgrade to the 500k weight oil just like you mentioned.

    Consider the Variable Damping shock kit (TRA5461). It is about $6. I use the #2 pistons, and drill out the bypass holes slightly larger, to allow quicker extension. When accelerating, the front end of the truck lifts, but the front wheel have quicker extension and maintain contact with the ground.

    Consider the Extended Rear Arms (TRA5333R). They will help shift some weight forward, and help balance the truck a little more.

    Buy the engine chassis brace (TRA5361). Regardless of what chassis you run, this is a no brainer.

    Consider going with one steering servo. In that regard, an aftermarket servo may be more economical in the long run, versus a 2075. When I read you wanted to switch to the 2075's, I focused on the plural that you used. I would rather spend $80 on a aftermarket single servo setup, than spend $80 on two 2075's. To add to that, I would spend about $20 more to have a dependable steering servo, that I could swap into another chassis, if I ever purchased a buggy or truggy.
    Believe 1/2 of what you see,and 0 of what you hear

  6. #6
    RC Competitor
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    Thanks for the information.

    I do already have the extended rear A Arms. I was thinking of going with the damping kit, I am not sure why my LHS said don't bother? the reason I was saying 2 2075 servo's is that you can pick up two on e-bay for about $40 shipped versus $80-$100 for a single servo setup plus the spring. Since I bash more I figured I would save the extra money.

    Going with 17mm hubs is a good suggestion. I didn't realize aftermarket tires were reinforced to limit ballooning. I didn't think about the aftermarket axles either. Lastly thoughts on the rear springs to help keep the weight forward upon hard acceleration? I know if would only get worse if I ever switch the engine.

    I have read good things about the center deff for racing but not so good for bashing so I might just hold off and see how things develop.

    THANKS.

  7. #7
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    I never fully understand how someone can say that the center diff is not good for bashing. Seems kinda a contradictory statement to me, in that you are only bashing, and there is no right or wrong thing that you could be doing when you bash. It's just bashing, there is no goal or objective. I agree with your earlier statement about not being concerned with wheelies. Wheelies are the only reason to not use a CD, IMO. I sometimes break it down like this; would you rather have a 1:1 vehicle with old school, get out and lock the front hubs 4 wheel drive Chevy, or all wheel drive like say a Porsche Cayenne? Which of the two are more universal in their abilities? Which one is going to be scrubbing the front wheels in a turn? The Revo is a toy, but it is still a machine with parameters to work within.

    I don't bash at all, but I have occasionaly taken my Revo out to burn up some fuel. I will give you one example of how the center diff was to my advantage; hill climbing. I am less inclined to flip over backwards. Another would be maintaining control regardless of terrain. I can be on-throttle, when powering through a turn, instead of spinning out. What you were describing in your initial post, was understeer. Trying to accelerate, with the front wheels turned, and it's just pushing forward. Who wants that? However, I was going to make a point in my previous post about some racers prefer no CD. Those racers are more inclined to power slide into every corner, and master that technique.

    So far as the springs go, at a certain point, a stiffer spring is going to cause the front wheels to lift. I run 50w in the front and 55 weight in the rear, with green front and gold rear. But there is no right or wrong. I don't know where you bash, or how you bash. I only go around a track (well, used to), and the goal is to balance all the problems (jumps and turns), to be consistent. I tried soft and I tried stiff, and I pretty much came back to the basic race setup. I found that the Variable Pistons really helped keep the front wheels in contact with the ground. Your point about the LHS saying don't bother with them, is another reason why I don't ask them for advice. Considering they cost $6, they should be on everyones list.

    PS, When I go to the LHS, I always have my parts list written down with the numbers and brief description. Their opinions don't really matter to me. It is usually only the hobby stores that are in close proximity to a track, that have a better understanding of what's what, and why.

    Hope I have been helpful, and not come across as a negative Nellie.
    Believe 1/2 of what you see,and 0 of what you hear

  8. #8
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    If your front wheels are balooning a lot maybe your oil is too thick, the stock center diff in the erevo will still wheelie, it comes with 500k i belive, i added 100k and it was much better.

    I just added the traxxas extended rear arms to my 3.3 today, i have the vdp kit as well and its amazing!! I'm currently sheading some weight with mine.

    Hitec 7955 did wonders to the steering its soo powerful and plenty of fast for a monster truck

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