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  1. #81
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I won't be able to post a video or finish the truck anytime soon. I'm going back to work for three weeks on Wednesday and then when I get home my wife is due. So who knows when I'll get a chance
    Have a great time , congrats. I am enjoying 7 months of paternity leave and lots of time for my boy, family and rc,
    Live life to the fullest

  2. #82
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    thanks and wow that's a long time off at one time! I get half the year off but in 21 day intervals
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  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    thanks and wow that's a long time off at one time! I get half the year off but in 21 day intervals
    Officially the father is allowed 6 weeks but since my wife does not work I am entitled to 38 weeks., taking only the 28weeks now, more then enough I guess...
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  4. #84
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    I am doing the lst2 diff conversion now and want to do the outer case silver as well like the one you have, I cannot seem to get a confirmation that the losb3533 which marks as only for the AFT is the same as the losb3532 marked for the lst, lst2 and some others.
    I guess even if it is blue doe not really matter as it will be hidden, only prob is the blue one is at least 4$ more.
    Also have you heard of the losb3120 beavel set replacing the original, cannot seem to find any one who has used these, I guess I will stick to the original too.
    Thanks for your input
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  5. #85
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    I'm not using lst2 diffs and I don't have any experience with them either so I can't really answer your question. Mine are RC Monster cases.
    You can de anodize the blue cases if you wanted. I de anodize pretty much everything just because. I use Greased Lightning and let the parts soak for a few hours and then use my dremel wire wheel to finish.
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  6. #86
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    hi there
    i'd love to know where you got the metal gears for the gearbox
    im about to start my build with a 3.3 chassis and was going to mount the erevo gearbox in, but if i can metal gear the nitro gearbox, that would be even better!

  7. #87
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    They are all over eBay. The wide gear Robinson Racing part # is RRP8007. They are pricey though.
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  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by timochy View Post
    hi there
    i'd love to know where you got the metal gears for the gearbox
    im about to start my build with a 3.3 chassis and was going to mount the erevo gearbox in, but if i can metal gear the nitro gearbox, that would be even better!
    I think it is feasible , a guy at the local track is also using Robinson's gears in his trans...
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  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    Officially the father is allowed 6 weeks but since my wife does not work I am entitled to 38 weeks., taking only the 28weeks now, more then enough I guess...
    Is that paid leave or what? I couldn't afford to take that much time off.
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  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    Is that paid leave or what? I couldn't afford to take that much time off.
    Luckily the Canadian system is great, it is paid (at 75% of my salary) leave trough the contributions of employment insurance and the government. And yes I could do it also, because of small savings.... I have set aside
    Last edited by Jezza; 05-03-2014 at 09:54 AM.
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  11. #91
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    By any chance do you still have your FLM pede and REM, I was wondering about REM parts, how great are they.
    Looking for an aluminum erbe chassis..or aluminum parts, love FLM but they hardly have anything for the erbe, got some HR and GH, looking for something new..
    Last edited by Jezza; 05-03-2014 at 10:15 AM.
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  12. #92
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    http://m.ebay.com/itm/390515073119?nav=SEARCH

    Hey. Before i order the wrong part........ Again
    Is this what you ordered?

  13. #93
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    I rebuilt that pede into a bandit and now it's a slash. I still have that flm chassis. I have never purchased any REM parts. I'm not familiar with aluminum chassis for the erbe except Kerahaw and The gorilla max that I was going to originally use. PM me if you want to buy it. There is also a brand new one on eBay but they want $425 for it. I would not run the Kershaw chassis. Too many bad reviews.
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  14. #94
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    1/8 scale Gorillamaxx ERBE build

    Quote Originally Posted by timochy View Post
    http://m.ebay.com/itm/390515073119?nav=SEARCH

    Hey. Before i order the wrong part........ Again
    Is this what you ordered?
    Sorry I missed your question. Those are not the right gears. They don't have the same part number as what I gave you. Here is a link to the right ones and the cheapest on eBay.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/161294563462
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  15. #95
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    3.2 badlands on rpm stablemaxx revolvers. I need to put the Tekno wing on, order toe links, set up the steering, put the ti chassis skid on and clean up the wiring.

    I'm going to try 2.8 mashers on the rpm revolvers as well. I think they won't look too small.

    I haven't heard from Wesley K in a while about the ti stubs for my lst2 CVDs. I'm going to send my knuckles and CVDs to a friend to modify them. The stubs need a new hole drilled and the excess cut off. The tekno's need the inside enlarged so the bearing can go deeper in. The rear rpm knuckle will need both holes enlarged. I also need to order the metal retainer for the rear pillow balls.


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  16. #96
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    thanks mate
    just bought that one

  17. #97
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    1/8 scale center diff planning

    I would like to do an 1/8 scale center diff so that the thread title is still partially true...I have been doing a lot of research on the matter and I have it set out in my mind the way I want to do it. Some people of note on this mod are Cowboy Ray, mistercrash, Oomp, Its Me and sjcrss

    I will be using a Thunder Tiger ST-1 center diff (gears & case) to start out with. From what I have read, it is smaller than other 1/8 scale diffs allowing it to fit in the 3.3 tranny with ease. I will modify the output shafts (front & rear) from the Revo center diff to work with the internals of the ST-1 diff. The gears need to be cut off and holes need to be drilled for the crosspin inside the case that will hold the large diff gears in place. This will probably be the hardest part and will require me to send the shafts off to a friend to do for me.

    Normally the hardest part was cutting the teeth of of a hardened steel spur gear, drilling the holes that hold the traxxas diff gear on and tapping the holes. A carbide bit, countersink bit and tap are required. Instead of doing all that, I'm going to be using a plastic spur gear from an RC8T. I will drill the 4 holes, counter sink them from the inside and use these threaded Kyosho post to hold the Revo CD 28t gear on.


    I got this image from RCMonster

    the post and spur gear will look something like this but with 4 instead of two and in my case, plastic


    I will have to drill out the 4 holes on the Revo CD gear so that it slides onto the 4 posts. I will have to secure it with screws from the outside. I'm not sure how I will do that. I need to get everything in hand to figure that out.

    And that's pretty much it. I need to compare the length of the FOC shaft that I'm using now and possibly trim the gear down to fit. In the end it should look like this. Taken from Mistercrash's photbucket. My gear won't be black though and of course, 4 screws will be used since I'm running off a plastic spur gear instead of metal.


    I will be ordering all these parts:
    Kyosho Aluminum Stiffener Posts (ZX-5)
    Thunder Tiger Diff Case, S3
    Thunder Tiger Inner Diff Gears & Parts, S3
    XRAY 8x12x3.5mm Ball-Bearing MR128ZZ (2)
    Traxxas Rear Differential Output Gear (Revo 3.3)
    Kyosho 10x12mm Shim Set (0.1mm/0.2mm) (8) (ZX-5)
    OFNA 10x12x0.3mm shim kit (10)
    OFNA 8x10x0.3 mm shim kit (10)
    Traxxas Gear, Center: Replacement 5414
    Traxxas Center Differential Output Shaft (Revo)
    Team Associated Plastic Spur Gear (48T) (e-Conversion)

    I would love to hear if anybody has done this recently. I get home from work in two weeks so nothing will happen till then
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  18. #98
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    Good luck...hope it works out.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  19. #99
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    Bulletproof 1/8 Center Diff

    I was looking at the internal pics of my tranny and got to thinking that I could use the robinson racing FOC gear on the center diff instead of the plastic TRX CD gear. All it needs is for the part that holds the grub screw shaved off and holes drilled in it to attach it to the shaved spur gears. I don't have a drill press so I ordered everything today and had it all sent to a friend. I've only seen a couple of mentions of a hardened steel gear but nothing really documented.

    So the part that slides over the FOC gear will be cut off and three holes will be drilled in a triangle with a carbide bit to attach this gear to the center diff modified spur.


    YOu can see that the other side is hollow. This is great because I can use locknuts to attach everything.


    So here is the new parts list:
    Thunder Tiger PD2378 complete center diff with metal spur


    Robinson Racing Forward Only Conversion RRP8029


    And then all the shims and Traxxas output shafts listed above. I also ordered a couple of carbide bits and a countersink bit from usaCarbide. I will make a full walkthrough when this is done
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  20. #100
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    I have a question with the tranny, why do you have to lock it onto 2nd. Is the robinson set up you made the same as the original configuration.
    Also are you still able to use the reverse.
    Great work, with your 1/8 centre diff I imagine it can take up more load then the traxxas centre diff
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  21. #101
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    This tranny is designed for nitro engines that benefit from having a high and low gear. There is no gear sets to my knowledge (at least not hardened steel) that are produced that eliminate the two gears so diy locking is required.

    I'm really excited to see this CD completed! The main problem with the Traxxas CD is that it only uses two spiders and from what I've read, anything less than 500,000 diff fluid leads to too much unloading to the front tires. The 1/8 scale diffs that I'm using front rear and now center use 4 spider gears and are bigger in size. Here is the difference:



    I'm going to run it with the current setup first to see what it's like with no center diff but I already know that I'm not a big fan of doing wheelies all day long.
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  22. #102
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    This tranny is designed for nitro engines that benefit from having a high and low gear. There is no gear sets to my knowledge (at least not hardened steel) that are produced that eliminate the two gears so diy locking is required.

    I'm really excited to see this CD completed! The main problem with the Traxxas CD is that it only uses two spiders and from what I've read, anything less than 500,000 diff fluid rleads to too much unloading to the front tires. The 1/8 scale diffs that I'm using front rear and now center use 4 spider gears and are bigger in size. Here is the difference:



    I'm going to run it with the current setup first to see what it's like with no center diff but I already know that I'm not a big fan of doing wheelies all day long.
    Thanks for the clarification.
    Like wise I am not really a big fan of wheelies and seriously going to take up organised races, I have an erbe that I will use for general bashing with an ESC and motor that I cannot name here and the other building from scratch but with the MM2, been reading a lot and try and make it as much as possible very sturdy and to the best of my liking, after all....I guess it comes to the needs of the user.

    I am wondering if sticking another lst2 diff would work as a centre diff
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  23. #103
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    In the ERevo transmission, you absolutely can use an lst2 diff or any 1/8 scale diff for this mod. Here are some threads for you:
    This is page 9 but the previous pages are pretty informative about how the results at the end came about
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...42#post3953042
    The definitive thread:
    http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23402
    More light reading
    https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14757

    Just for your information, when you see this mod where the gears stick out around the diff, it's using a 33t external gear and is for the ERBE. If the external gears are flush with the diff case, then its for the Revo 3.3 tranny like the ones I have pictured above.
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  24. #104
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Awesome thanks heaps
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  25. #105
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    I guess you are talking about the ERBE tranny?
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  26. #106
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    what are the benefits of switching those gears?
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  27. #107
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    oh I see. yeah the external pinion gearing is pretty limited. I hope mine runs fast enough with the 2650 and 3s combo. If not, I have plenty of 4s batteries. Are you running an 1/8 scale diff too?
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  28. #108
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    I meant are you running any kind of center diff? and what cell count was your battery?
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  29. #109
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    okay I just looked through your posts and see that you were running 3s. I'm going to have a different final ratio with 1/8 scale front and rear diffs and 2.8" trenchers. Hopefully it works out fine. If, not I will go 2200 on 5s like I originally planned to do.


    Jery, you missed out, I'm going to take the Gorillamaxx chassis and make an E-Slayer out of it! I will go ahead with the original plan of using the RC Monster center diff mount with a 2400kv castle and MMP on 4s with a mugen center diff. I won't be as cool as this one but it's an idea of what to expect

    Last edited by SLW-SVT; 05-09-2014 at 03:54 PM.
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  30. #110
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    Jery, you missed out, I'm going to take the Gorillamaxx chassis and make an E-Slayer out of it! I will go ahead with the original plan of using the RC Monster center diff mount with a 2400kv castle and MMP on 4s with a mugen center diff. I won't be as cool as this one but it's an idea of what to expect
    I will definitely look at that thread too....
    I tested my erbe 1 today, now I do not want to go back to my 2wd pedes any more, its a different ball game all together, cannot wait to get my other build out too, but I will definitely put a 4x4 pede project too, might even scrap the hybrid project and just make it into a Mt slash 4x4

    I noticed you and 67Exec have both the C clip pin in the tranny , where do you get those from.
    Last edited by Jezza; 05-09-2014 at 07:44 PM.
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  31. #111
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    thanks for the pics Exec. I may have to mess around with that in the future.
    Jery, that c-clip came with the slayer tranny that I'm using. I know the feeling of driving something better and losing interest in other cars. I wish I would have driven a mugen mbx6 eco buggy before spending 1000s on slash 4x4s and a Stampede 4x4...I sold off all 3 and haven't looked back. Here is the "G-Slayer" build thread http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...21#post5707421
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  32. #112
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    I know the use of Integy parts are a taboo in the RC world but this chassis skid really stands out to me. It does exactly what the HCR chassis brace does but it's designed for the extended chassis. Also, it's made out of stainless steel instead of aluminum and the price is easy to swallow at $22 with free shipping. I'm going to try to use it in conjunction with the HCR skids that I have but that may not work. I haven't seen any reviews on it or seen anyone use it.
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  33. #113
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    Definitely post some pics on that skid! That has been on my watch list on Ebay for some time now. I mean its just a skid, how bad could they have possibly made it? Let me know if it says "Integy" on it anywhere as well. Ha. Its just too bad HCR didn't make an extended one.
    Big Air Don't Care

  34. #114
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    yeah..but then I might not bash as hard if it wasn't easily replaceable.. I get home next wednesday so I hope to get this truck finished and drive it! I hope it doesn't say integy! I need to figure out what color I want to paint the platinum edition body. I'll probably use that one for bashing and the truck body for shelf duty. The platinums are only $17
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  35. #115
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    It's really not a bad looking skid, neither is the price. Hope it works out to. If it holds up well, reallly well, you could engrave I N T E G Y in huge letters.

    Are you thinking something bright???
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  36. #116
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    That's such a dirty word!
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  37. #117
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    That's such a dirty word!


    hey at least it would be underneath the truck.......
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  38. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I hope it doesn't say integy!
    Same here. That listing on Ebay is the only picture I could even find on it. I couldn't find a pic of it used and mounted at all. Because I agree, that is such a foul word.
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  39. #119
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    Sometmes its better to beat up a cheap one than seeing a expensive one getting all scratched up

  40. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    Sometmes its better to beat up a cheap one than seeing a expensive one getting all scratched up
    100% agreed

    Quote Originally Posted by Babby View Post
    Same here. That listing on Ebay is the only picture I could even find on it. I couldn't find a pic of it used and mounted at all. Because I agree, that is such a foul word.
    Yeah I couldn't find one either
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