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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarGuy7a View Post
    I dropped the pan today and did some checking with some of the valves in the valve body to make sure they were installed correctly (which they were). Got to the point of putting everything together when I remembered that during assembly the 1-2 accumulator piston felt very tight when we put it together so I said "heck it's only 3 bolts lets take it off and check it". After about an hour of trying to figure out which way it should go (the ATSG book showed one way and the updated book showed the piston orientation a different way) I turned to the interweb machine here and discovered we had it in wrong. The piston faces the spacer plate not away from it. Apparently sometime between 98 and 99 chevrolet changed the orientation of the 1-2 accumulator piston.

    So now what's going to happen is putting the 1-2 accumulator the correct way and pray it works.
    Sweet!! It sounds like the TH400 in my 72' it revs and doesn't pull when it has cold oil..., that's a different problem than yours! I hope it works!

  2. #42
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    Well got that little problem with the 1-2 accumulator sorted out but the big picture problem still exists with the 1-2 shift rpms flaring. So really it did nothing to fix the problem. I'm at a loss here. Checked everything that can be checked without ripping it back out. I'm getting sick of working on this thing. I just can't understand why this stupid thing won't work right. It ran and shifted fine before tearing it down except for the broke ring gear. I did absolutely everything according to the book and it went back together exactly the same way it came apart.
    Last edited by CarGuy7a; 01-05-2014 at 04:55 AM.

  3. #43
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    I'm thinking it's time to find a trans shop with a dyno; they will hook up gauges to all the pressure ports on the trans and then run the vehicle. That will tell you right then and there what circuit is the issue.
    I shot an elephant in my underwear last night...

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMDRACER View Post
    I'm thinking it's time to find a trans shop with a dyno; they will hook up gauges to all the pressure ports on the trans and then run the vehicle. That will tell you right then and there what circuit is the issue.
    Hopefully they can tell you!! Who knows though

    Good luck!! I hope you get it fixed!!

  5. #45
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    I did not read the entire thread , but did you replace the factory plastic accumulator for the aluminum updated unit? Now is the time.

  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    I'm gonna talk to my buddy's cousin who I got my solenoids from. He may know right off the bat what it is without hooking anything up to it (if he needs to then I'll take it to him). I did some reading and most all signs point to the 2-4 servo. They said on a few forums that if the 2nd apply piston is wore too much it can leak causing the 1-2 rpm flare I'm getting but yet still have a good 4th gear (which it goes in 4th good if I can get the speed up enough but I don't like pushing it, don't wanna burn that band up). If so I can get the corvette servo (which they say is a good recommended upgrade) for around $12 from Makco.

    Louie L. No I reused the plastic one. Actually when ordering the parts I didn't know it should be changed or that it was even made of plastic. But the plastic one checked out ok was still good and snug and not cracked. I may order it if I have to get the servo kit. The piston is fairly cheap also and can be accessed without removing the VB.

    I just don't get why it worked before but now it's nothing but problems. I guess the parts that are worn just a hair too much are starting to show, who knows? I probably should have just said the heck with it and bought a re manufactured trans from PATC or something.
    Last edited by CarGuy7a; 01-06-2014 at 03:53 AM.

  7. #47
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    My highly optioned 4l60 E , in a 1500 Suburban failed because that factory piston cracked. This trans had a flawless 8-9 years and 80-85k mi. Then one day it starts to slip in first and second bad.

    Culprit the factory plastic piston had cracked.... I wish the builder had done that 8 years prior but he believed strongly in that factory part. Took it back to him and he knew exactly what was wrong. The pressure and heat cycles will take their toll, especially on a well used one. HTH

    In addition I have a pic of the piston and failure if you are interested.
    Last edited by Double G; 01-06-2014 at 08:42 PM. Reason: merge

  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    Talked to my buddy's cousin today. He said to start at the 2-4 servo. He said to replace it with the Corvette servo (he said he puts them in all 4L60E's he rebuilds). Then if it still does it after putting that in and checking the pin travel and such, that the VB will have to be removed to check the ball placements, valves, and the capsule ball in the 2-4 servo area. He said he's ran into my exact problem after a rebuild also.

    I put ordered my parts along with an aluminum forward accumulator piston it was only a few bucks more. I've seen pics where those plastic ones crack and spider web out around the pin.

    Hopefully the parts will straighten it out. If not we might be taking it to him to fix.

  9. #49
    RC Qualifier westoakmech's Avatar
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    Good luck man, those little problems are aggrevating. I hope you find it with out dropping the valve body.
    Rusty 2.5R,T-max 2.5 & 3.3,Summit VXL Nitro 4-tec

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by westoakmech View Post
    Good luck man, those little problems are aggrevating. I hope you find it with out dropping the valve body.
    Thanks. Yeah I hope I don't have to pull the VB either. It'll be a pain with it in the truck. He did say though that there is a valve for the 1-2 shift that is held in by a roll pin and it's a sleeve (which I remember taking it out) he said the ports in it go a certain way and if it's flipped 180, it can also cause that problem. I hope it's in the servo though. That's an easier fix.

  11. #51
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    Well I put in the Corvette 2-4 servo and it did nothing to fix the problem. The servo pin travel was within spec. What this thing is doing is starting out in 2nd gear and will not go to any other gear. In 3 or Drive and also in OD, it starts and stays in 2nd, when it goes to shift to 3rd, the trans just neutrals out and revs then goes back into 2nd gear. Now if I go to manual 1 and try to upshift through the gears it stays in 2nd. Going about 5mph in manual 2 and down shift to 1st nothing happens. Not getting any trouble codes so I know all the transmission's electronics are working.

    I read online that the 4L60E's limp mode maxes the line pressure and defaults to 3rd gear starts but can be manually over ridden when you pull it into manual 1, then you can manually upshift from 1,2 and 3. The pressure will over ride the electronics so you can manually shift it but I'm not even getting that.

    I've looked all over the place and seriously cannot find one thing that even describes the problem I have with this thing. I have no idea what's wrong with this piece of junk. Probably time to drop it off at the pro's house and say "HERE FIX IT, so I can get rid of it!!!!!".

  12. #52
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    Sorry guys to up old thread, but I have some questions. Hope you will help.

    I am not rebuilding...yet...but I have a question regarding the tail/output shaft of the tranny that goes through the extension housing and connects to the driveshaft. The tail shaft squeaks when I turn it in one direction when the van (2001 Safari cargovan RWD) is in neutral. Also, there is close to a 1/4" movement at the end of the shaft with the extension housing removed.

    I don't see any way of removing the output shaft for inspection without removing the tranny and tearing it down. Thought maybe since you've torn one apart that you might be able to shed some light on the innards.

    I am curious as to whether you'd know what might be squeaking and whether the movement is excessive. The squeak comes from deeper in the tranny and when I move the driveshaft end of the output shaft the bearing/bushing/seal where the shaft enters the tranny housing moves noticeably.

    I'm concerned because I get a repetitive turning noise that I first associated with the rear end. The gear teeth in the rear end look good, the clearances are OK, the teeth mesh fine, and I replaced the pinion and carrier bearing a couple of years ago.

    Is there anything in the tranny that could cause such a low, almost growling noise that repeats every rev? I replaced the bushing and seal on the driveshaft end of the extension housing.



    Thanks.
    Last edited by Double G; 11-28-2018 at 11:07 AM.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uany View Post
    Sorry guys to up old thread, but I have some questions. Hope you will help.

    I am not rebuilding...yet...but I have a question regarding the tail/output shaft of the tranny that goes through the extension housing and connects to the driveshaft. The tail shaft squeaks when I turn it in one direction when the van (2001 Safari cargovan RWD) is in neutral. Also, there is close to a 1/4" movement at the end of the shaft with the extension housing removed.

    I don't see any way of removing the output shaft for inspection without removing the tranny and tearing it down. Thought maybe since you've torn one apart that you might be able to shed some light on the innards.

    I am curious as to whether you'd know what might be squeaking and whether the movement is excessive. The squeak comes from deeper in the tranny and when I move the driveshaft end of the output shaft the bearing/bushing/seal where the shaft enters the tranny housing moves noticeably.

    I'm concerned because I get a repetitive turning noise that I first associated with the rear end. The gear teeth in the rear end look good, the clearances are OK, the teeth mesh fine, and I replaced the pinion and carrier bearing a couple of years ago.

    Is there anything in the tranny that could cause such a low, almost growling noise that repeats every rev? I replaced the bushing and seal on the driveshaft end of the extension housing.



    Thanks.
    Man you did dig up a Relic of a thread As far as your squeaking noise while turning the driveshaft in one direction, mine did the very same thing when the rear planetary blew and it also caused the growling. The whole thing will have to be dis assembled to get that planetary out as it's at the very rear of the trans. I suggest installing the 4l65E upgraded 5 gear planetaries they are much stronger. The 4L60E is just a plain junk trans IMO and many others as well (probably why GM doesn't make them anymore).

    While I'm here may as well update what the final problem I had with this trans was. I know 4 years later the finally the update The reason for the trans not shifting and slipping after the fresh rebuild I did to it was a broken sun shell gear. The one part I inspected and inspected and said "yeah it's ok" well it wasn't. It ended up wiping out all the brand new clutches and costed me another $1,200 for a third rebuild. So I had a trans shop fix it and while it was being fixed in 2014 I bought a 2013 Toyota tacoma 4x4 4cyl 5 speed manual. Once the trans got fixed in the other truck I drove it on and off to make sure it was ok then I off loaded that pile. I just couldn't take it anymore
    Last edited by CarGuy7a; 12-24-2018 at 09:12 PM.

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