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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier iZach98's Avatar
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    New Slash Upgrades

    hey guys, so i got a slash for christmas. i want to do a few upgrades to it, already broke an A-arm (it was a really silly crash, so i was braking in my motor and crashed into a garbage can at about 10mph. and i went over to it and the A-arm broke the part by the c-block pin. had an extra one laying around) so clearly the stock A-arms suck. (plus its winter by me and its about 35(F) degrees out)
    so i want to do a color scheme on it, like blue (cause the body is that color anyways and i really like it) i put some STRC c-blocks on it (blue of course) i have some rear hub carriers aluminum (blue, don't know what company its from, cause it don't say anything on them. i wanna get rpm steering knuckles for it. also wanna get rpm nerf bars for it. i have a rpm rear bumper and rpm mud flaps for it, gonna put em on later today. I am also gonna put a CC Sidewinder SCT 3800kv system in it. getting Proline badlands for it with beadloc's (sadly the beadloc's are red maybe some spray paint will do the job. already got an extra battery (traxxas 7cell 8.4v 5000mAh hump pack) should i get RPM A-arms? are they a lot better or just get aluminum? I am also trying to stay on a budget at about $50-$65 if that helps. Any replies would be great! thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    DONT USE STRC!! compleate garbage. Next rpm parts are guarenteed (they still break if you drive your truck properly ) and they are alot tougher. My whole truck is either proline or rpm. Castle stuff is good but not waterptoof the vxl is the way to go. Badlands are the best all around tires. Get a lipo battery if you go vxl or sidewinder 11.1v 3s 0r 7.4v 2s. Try to avoid aluminum parts they are really a waste of money. Rpm stuff is cheaper and works better.. aluminum is really only good for shocks chasis differential and bellcrank.
    Last edited by wmckay96; 12-24-2013 at 01:46 PM.
    Slash 2wd Vxl, ERBE; Crash N Learn

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    Uhh the new traxxas lcg kit in blue?..
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdvanb View Post
    Uhh the new traxxas lcg kit in blue?..
    I got this and the proline aluminum lcg chasis. Proline one is way better.... only $90 more lol
    Slash 2wd Vxl, ERBE; Crash N Learn

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmckay96 View Post
    DONT USE STRC!! compleate garbage. Next rpm parts are guarenteed (they still break if you drive your truck properly ) and they are alot tougher. My whole truck is either proline or rpm. Castle stuff is good but not waterptoof the vxl is the way to go. Badlands are the best all around tires. Get a lipo battery if you go vxl or sidewinder 11.1v 3s 0r 7.4v 2s. Try to avoid aluminum parts they are really a waste of money. Rpm stuff is cheaper and works better.. aluminum is really only good for shocks chasis differential and bellcrank.
    I have to disagree
    Strc makes quality parts and aluminum is good in other spots too (like the front bulkhead)
    Some of there parts aren't good for everybody but different people have different driving styles too
    Also forgot to add, and Strc hinge pin kit would be nice!
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmckay96 View Post
    I got this and the proline aluminum lcg chasis. Proline one is way better.... only $90 more lol
    Sure the proline is better but it costs a lot more like you mentioned
    But for his budget it's a good upgrade and goes with his theme
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  7. #7
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Let me get this straight: you ram an object with your Slash in near-freezing temperatures which causes the arm to break and you believe the arm is at fault...did I get that right?
    FWIW, some manufacturers of plastic parts - RPM being among them - consider temperatures below 50F to be outside normal operating temperatures. Plastic gets more brittle in the cold. Hitting objects heavier than your vehicle at such low temperatures will result in damage. So try not to do that.
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  8. #8
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    He never said it was the arms fault, he said they suck, and they do. You run stock slash arms on your truck? If so I have no idea how you keep them in one piece. I tried using stock hubs up front and broke one from landing a little sideways. Stock slash parts are up to par with the titan, go past that and expect to look to the aftermarket

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  9. #9
    RC Qualifier iZach98's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the replies. I may get an aluminum blockhead up front. I'm jot looking for the LCG chassis although it's a great idea I may look into it. I have a set of strc bellcranks, what does it do differently than the plastic ones does the steering preform better? And yes I know I crashed in near freezing temps and I know I would break something, I'm not saying that it's the cars fault or the A-arms fault. It is my fault, I crashed, Period.


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  10. #10
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    The strc bellcranks use bearings instead of bushings in the stocker, it'll flex less too. Just make sure to clean and lube the bolts that attach the draglink with krytech dry wax to prevent them from wearing out. Happened to mine and now the steering as some play in it.

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  11. #11
    RC Qualifier iZach98's Avatar
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    Ok, also will metal cvd's or driveshafts improve performance? Or just improve strength? And aluminum A-arms? Are they good, Or just a waste of money?


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  12. #12
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    Metal driveshafts are a good upgrade, less headaches with the half shafts breaking and no binding when the suspension cycles. Aluminum arms aren't a good idea, imo. I thinked they'd bend before an rpm one would break

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  13. #13
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    Cvd's are worth it. Rpm is always the best choice for a arms. I bought an strc aluminum belcrank today
    Slash 2wd Vxl, ERBE; Crash N Learn

  14. #14
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Building Boost View Post
    He never said it was the arms fault, he said they suck, and they do. You run stock slash arms on your truck? If so I have no idea how you keep them in one piece. I tried using stock hubs up front and broke one from landing a little sideways. Stock slash parts are up to par with the titan, go past that and expect to look to the aftermarket

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    I thought we were discussing arms, not hubs. But if we're expanding the conversation, see below. A whole set of stock arms can be had for less than $7.00 shipped. Of course, they are only available in black.

    Quote Originally Posted by Building Boost View Post
    Metal driveshafts are a good upgrade, less headaches with the half shafts breaking and no binding when the suspension cycles. Aluminum arms aren't a good idea, imo. I thinked they'd bend before an rpm one would break

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    You'd be wrong about any decent aluminum arm bending before an RPM one broke, especially in the mentioned temperatures. There's a reason RPM will only honor a warranty for a part run in the cold once. Nonetheless, I don't like aluminum arms either. And hey - the Slash arms may be short enough for the RPM plastic to NOT sag when the temperatures rise. (Never make that bet on the RPM caster blocks. Lovin' the front bumper though.)
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  15. #15
    RC Qualifier iZach98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Lovin' the front bumper though.)
    So what do you like so much about the rpm front bumper? I may get one i don't know yet...


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  16. #16
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    New Slash Upgrades

    Well, I use Slash front bumpers on my Stampede(s). The RPM version seems a bit sturdier than the stock, but IMO there is not enough of a difference to justify replacing a perfectly good stock bumper with a slightly better aftermarket version unless you are desiring a color change. I detest the RPM blue but I like the way it can be dyed a deeper or darker blue.
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  17. #17
    RC Qualifier iZach98's Avatar
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    New Slash Upgrades

    Ok thanks. I would also like to put some lights on it, maybe the rpm
    Light canisters. Already got the rear bumper just need the front, and some canisters from rpm, any recommendations ons on LEDs? I saw rpm had a link to Ram Tech rc and the LEDs are really cheap, but are they waterproof and good? I'm gonna run it through puddles and snow so I really need waterproof. (Also cause I hose off my rc then use an air compressor to clean it, works really well. Till the electronics die, lol)

    Oh one more thing, what would happens if I was driving on pavement and I had a diff locker in it? Would it destroy the tranny? Or would it be ok? I really wanna try it
    Out, cause I don't really like how the inner wheel spins and it acts like that. So any thoughts on this idea? (I also drive in grass)
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    Last edited by iZach98; 12-24-2013 at 11:49 PM.

  18. #18
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    they r definitely sturdier than the stock, but not a necessity till u break or crack it. i cracked mine at a skate park 20-25 foot drop slightly overshot the landing on the other side of the spine by like 4 feet. luckily the front bumper absorbed the hit and sustained a crack right at the screw that mounts it on.. now its a back up to my sons slash's front bumper.

    Quote Originally Posted by iZach98 View Post
    So what do you like so much about the rpm front bumper? I may get one i don't know yet...


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  19. #19
    RC Qualifier iZach98's Avatar
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    New Slash Upgrades

    Can you run rear A-arms (rpm or stock) in the front? What would the difference be? All that I would see is more shock mounting positions, but that's all I see that's different.
    Also I don't think I'm gonna get lights just yet, probably later on though.

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  20. #20
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    i don't believe so with the slash
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  21. #21
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    I have run maybe two sets of front arms on my slash in 5 full years of owning it, and trust me, I beat the living schmit out of it, you're just doing it wrong.

    Oh and rpm front light cans and bumper? Do it. They are really nice, I went and bought a ramtech led set but you could pretty easily make some yourself.



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    Last edited by Kitteh298; 12-25-2013 at 03:48 AM.
    MM|2200kv 2WD LCG Slash - MM2|2650kv LCG Slash 4x4

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier iZach98's Avatar
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    Ok thanks, BTW that slash looks sick with the lights on it, are they waterproof?
    Any thoughts on a locked diff?


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  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kitteh298 View Post
    I have run maybe two sets of front arms on my slash in 5 full years of owning it, and trust me, I beat the living schmit out of it, you're just doing it wrong.

    +1. I still have my original Slash that I used for spec racing back in 2009. Still has all four original arms on it. Back when the season ended in 09, a bunch of us went to the local bashing spot and just beat the snot out of these things with brushless systems, 3S lipos etc. I did manage to snap a chassis when it was about 10 degrees outside. Also shredded a couple drive shafts on 3S, but that's about it and I was trying my hardest to destroy the truck so I could buy a new one for the 2010 season. Makes me wonder how awful these guys must drive to say that the stock arms are junk.

    If you decide to drive in such cold conditions, just be prepared to replace a ton of parts. I've even had aluminum and steel parts snap like twigs when the weather got cold enough.

  24. #24
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    Bashing and breaking =
    Slash 2wd Vxl, ERBE; Crash N Learn

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmckay96 View Post
    I got this and the proline aluminum lcg chasis. Proline one is way better.... only $90 more lol

    Just wondering what is so much better about the PL chassis over the TRX LCG chassis? I see companies make aluminum chassis conversions for almost every vehicle out there, but I've never been able to figure out why it's better.

    For example, RCRD makes aluminum conversions for the Associated B4, T4 and SC10. However, I don't recall ever seeing Ryan Maifield or Ryan Cavalieri running one and they are two of the best drivers in the off road world. If there was a performance advantage to using an aluminum chassis, I would like to think that top pros like these guys would be looking for every edge they can get.

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier iZach98's Avatar
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    New Slash Upgrades

    So here are some pics:
    My Slash-


    My little bros rc's and mine, and my dads (the pede)-



    I also got some extra money, thinking about getting the traxxas ez peak plus 6amp charger then getting a Lipo battery later on.


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  27. #27
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    Lights are waterproof yeah, you can drown them and they'll be fine.

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  28. #28
    RC Qualifier iZach98's Avatar
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    New Slash Upgrades

    Ok, sweet. I'm gonna get some lights and some upgrades, oh and do you hook up the lights to the receiver or a battery pack all to itself?
    Like AA's or something?

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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmckay96 View Post
    DONT USE STRC!! compleate garbage. Next rpm parts are guarenteed (they still break if you drive your truck properly ) and they are alot tougher. My whole truck is either proline or rpm. Castle stuff is good but not waterptoof the vxl is the way to go. Badlands are the best all around tires. Get a lipo battery if you go vxl or sidewinder 11.1v 3s 0r 7.4v 2s. Try to avoid aluminum parts they are really a waste of money. Rpm stuff is cheaper and works better.. aluminum is really only good for shocks chasis differential and bellcrank.
    The CC sidewinder 3800kv system you mention is now waterproof and just as good if not better than the Vxl. The CC system is also a lot cheaper.

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier iZach98's Avatar
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    Yes the castle system is waterproof.
    So what do the lights hook up to? I was thinking they plug into the receiver, Does the main batter power them or do I need a separate power source for them?


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  31. #31
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    With the led lights you can go either way. You can use a 9v battery too

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    Just wondering what is so much better about the PL chassis over the TRX LCG chassis? I see companies make aluminum chassis conversions for almost every vehicle out there, but I've never been able to figure out why it's better.

    For example, RCRD makes aluminum conversions for the Associated B4, T4 and SC10. However, I don't recall ever seeing Ryan Maifield or Ryan Cavalieri running one and they are two of the best drivers in the off road world. If there was a performance advantage to using an aluminum chassis, I would like to think that top pros like these guys would be looking for every edge they can get.
    The proline is cnc'd making it lighter then the plastic. They also hold together better and dont flex at all.
    Slash 2wd Vxl, ERBE; Crash N Learn

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier iZach98's Avatar
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    New Slash Upgrades

    So I got the tires and rims that I wanted for Xmas, these tires are amazing they just tear everything up you put it through. They are proline badlands with beadloc's. here is a pic


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  34. #34
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    ......... maybe some blue spray paint.......
    Slash 2wd Vxl, ERBE; Crash N Learn

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    The proline is cnc'd making it lighter then the plastic. They also hold together better and dont flex at all.
    One of my trucks runs a pro line chassis and I fail to find it superior to plastic in anyway, truth be known I dont really even care for it.
    I'm looking forward to my next traxxas lcg chassis build.
    Just wondering what is so much better about the PL chassis over the TRX LCG chassis? I see companies make aluminum chassis conversions for almost every vehicle out there, but I've never been able to figure out why it's better.
    Imo Harry there is nothing better and you know my opinion comes from owning and running both during the same race season.
    I believe to often we buy things and even tho their not what we may have been hoping for we feel the need to defend them.
    My honest opinion on the pro line chassis is its an over priced piece of aluminum that out performs others in no way at all.
    In-fact its a pain to mount some of the electronics on.
    By the way, cnc machining makes for more precise machine work, it has no effects on weight.
    It just means a computer is handling all the machining rather than the human, meaning it's more precise. It's good when you need to make a thousand parts that need to be exactly the same dimensions each and every time.
    CNC (computer numerical control)
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  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    One of my trucks runs a pro line chassis and I fail to find it superior to plastic in anyway, truth be known I dont really even care for it.
    I'm looking forward to my next traxxas lcg chassis build.

    Imo Harry there is nothing better and you know my opinion comes from owning and running both during the same race season.
    I believe to often we buy things and even tho their not what we may have been hoping for we feel the need to defend them.
    My honest opinion on the pro line chassis is its an over priced piece of aluminum that out performs others in no way at all.
    In-fact its a pain to mount some of the electronics on.
    By the way, cnc machining makes for more precise machine work, it has no effects on weight.

    CNC (computer numerical control)

    That's pretty much what I was thinking. Often times we spend too much money on something, only to find that it's not really all that great. Then we tend to try and convince ourselves that it wasn't a waste of money. Before the Traxxas LCG chassis came along, the PL had a huge advantage with CoG. Now, I don't see it being anywhere near as advantageous as it was a few months ago.






    Quote Originally Posted by wmckay96 View Post
    The proline is cnc'd making it lighter then the plastic. They also hold together better and dont flex at all.

    I would have to take a closer look at the PL chassis, but I can't imagine that it doesn't flex at all. I would be more willing to believe that it flexes more than the Traxxas LCG chassis. The plastic Traxxas chassis has all kinds of vertical molded "ribs" that add lots of rigidity, much like most other brands of composite flat chassis.

    Aluminum, on the other hand, is a fairly soft metal and will bend/flex without much effort. It also depends on the alloy mix, but they're all plenty flexible. Any vehicle I've ever run with an aluminum chassis required bolt-on braces to stiffen it up. Even with the addition of chassis braces, there is still plenty of flex. No chassis flex is actually a bad thing unless you run on a super-smooth clay track or possibly carpet. Makes for a harsh and unpredictable ride on most any kind of bumpy surface.


    The weight part could go either way. I haven't got my hands on a TRX chassis yet, but the PL chassis requires quite a bit of bracing to stiffen it up, so I wouldn't be surprised if the weight savings is even a factor. I guess time will tell.

  37. #37
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    IZach98, that's a nice line up there! Very partial to the Robby Gordon body.

    I'm not sure why you guys think the stock arms "suck". I've beat the bloody crap out of my truck, ran into all sorts of immovable objects, jumped it bonzai style and haven't broken an arm yet. I even had a 6 year old kid belly flop onto my truck and the original arms are unharmed. Either you guys live in a way colder climate or you're driving weird. I used to snap arms often with my Rustler but not a single one with my Slash. In fact, over the last 9 months the only things I've broken were that little pin in the trans shaft and two bearings.
    The bearings were my fault for driving into the ocean. Scratch that off the bucket list.
    El que se rie, de sus maldades se acuersa.

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    I'm with you KillerToy, when I first got back into the hobby I caught an airport hanger door flat out and removed the entire side of the truck but other then that I've never had any issues with stock arms.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier iZach98's Avatar
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    thanks killertoy, yeah these trucks are really tuff. But everything has a breaking point. Especially when driving in salt water, bearings do not hold up then. Lol
    This is the best truck I've had so far. I've had a emaxx, stampede, and a bandit. And this is my favorite truck out of all that I've had.


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  40. #40
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    Hahahaha, it was 4th of July and my brother and I were celebrating at a beach. The drive through the ocean was a "it's waterproof, watch this!" moment. I had a good time cleaning it afterward but two bearings were damaged, fairly small price to pay to prove the Pacific Ocean is no match for my Robby Gordon Slash.
    El que se rie, de sus maldades se acuersa.

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