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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Getting my first merv!!!

    Hey guys,
    Trading for a merv and I've never owned one before. The guy that I've trading with has upgraded it and sent me the list as follows....

    - rpm arms - aftermarket front/rear bumper/wheelie bar, under chassis guard
    - 2 sets of talons, one new, one used
    - 1 used dirt hawk tires + bead lock wheels
    - center diff installed.

    I was wondering if there were any other upgrades I should look into? If there are can I get some part numbers, or links to where I can find them? Thanks in advance to anyone that can help.

  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    If it's got the stock servo, you'll need to replace that. do a quick search and you'll find many options. Have a blast. I love mine
    Sl4sh with CC MMP 3800, 2 mervs, a 3905 BL eMaxx,

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I'd ditch the locks.
    They add stress to the system, contribute to heat issues, and rob the system of power.

    This is what I had when I very rarely walked away broke.

    Steel hollow balls (7028x) to reduce slop
    3M mushroom tape along battery doors to hold the body on
    Aluminum knuckles to reduce slop and add strength (I had HR but recommend GPM or GH)
    A BlueBird 390 servo due to the stock being known to fry/strip itself
    RPM a arms at all four corners (Front-80692, Rear-80602)
    Center differential (7014) upgrade to help handle the power of
    2200mah 2S 20C LiPo's ran in parallel for ~1 hour run times
    23/50 gearing gets me to ~30mph yet keeps temps in check
    Shimmed front and rear bulkheads... *LINK*

    Especially do that last part... extremely cheap preventative procedure.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  4. #4
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuie View Post
    If it's got the stock servo, you'll need to replace that. do a quick search and you'll find many options. Have a blast. I love mine
    So, is there something wrong with the stock servo?

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
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    Usually most people have the stock servo fail after 15 runs... Mine is starting to make funny noises....
    PM for info.....

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    I'd ditch the locks.
    They add stress to the system, contribute to heat issues, and rob the system of power.
    This are some of the pix he sent to me. Not sure if these are the bead locks you were thinking of. If they are can you tell me how they mess up the system?





    Quote Originally Posted by Spartanator View Post
    Usually most people have the stock servo fail after 15 runs... Mine is starting to make funny noises....
    Wow ok....I just asked the guy if it was the stock servo and he said yeah. He didn't mention anything about it giving him any problems, so maybe I'm getting a relatively new merv?
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-09-2014 at 10:13 AM. Reason: merge

  7. #7
    RC Racer
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    Here you can find my recommendations: http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8997285


    The beadlock rims could be Sold. The only thing they are able to is looking nice.
    The reduce Speed and torque and add unnecessary Stress on everything between Esc wheels.

    Gesendet von meinem GT-I9300 mit Tapatalk 2

  8. #8
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feivel View Post
    Here you can find my recommendations: http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8997285


    The beadlock rims could be Sold. The only thing they are able to is looking nice.
    The reduce Speed and torque and add unnecessary Stress on everything between Esc wheels.

    Gesendet von meinem GT-I9300 mit Tapatalk 2

    OK but that still doesn't answer my question about how they add stress and other problems. You have to remember you're talking to someone who has never owned a set of beadlocks let alone a merv. Are they too heavy? Do the tires not keep their balance on those rims? What exactly is the cause of the stress that these wheels/tires cause on the electronics, etc?

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    They are heavy... very heavy.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  10. #10
    RC Racer
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    Rotating mass is a lot more add of stress than the weight of itself.


    Gesendet von meinem GT-I9300 mit Tapatalk 2

  11. #11
    RC Racer
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    OK guys I appreciate it....looks like I'll be selling those.

  12. #12
    RC Racer
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    Got another question for you guys about mah. I know with 1/10 most guys want 4,000 plus to get good run times, so what would be the equivalent with minis? It's just that I don't want to waste $ on batteries I don't necessarily need.
    Last edited by hoosier_rc_nut; 01-14-2014 at 01:16 PM.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    The largest 2S I have seen is 2500mAh from SPC.
    I think I have seen a 1800mAh for 3S... not sure on that though.

    Bigger the better though... the more capacity the more capable the battery will be at delivering amperage.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  14. #14
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    The largest 2S I have seen is 2500mAh from SPC.
    I think I have seen a 1800mAh for 3S... not sure on that though.

    Bigger the better though... the more capacity the more capable the battery will be at delivering amperage.

    Yeah I'm not really looking for more power because I've heard that bad things can happen when you run 3s on a merv....blowing esc's stripping gears, etc. What I'm looking for is decent run times.

  15. #15
    RC Competitor
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    You could buy another stock battery and run it in parallel. That doubles the run time

  16. #16
    RC Racer
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    Yep I could. What I would like to know is what is the same as say...a 4000 mah batter for a 1/10? Since it's for a mini does that mean that I divide the mah in two and expect the same run time out of a 2000 mah mini battery? If not then how do I figure it out?

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    The only way to figure out run time is to calculate consumption vs capacity.

    There are not a whole lot of options for a 16th due to the small battery bay. 2,000mAh to 2,500mAh is all there really is... and there is not a substantial price difference. The reason I suggest getting the biggest possible has very little to do with run time and a whole lot to do with amperage availability. Buying a small, low C rating LiPo is going to lead to issues... issues that can be avoided buy spending the funds more effectively the first time.

    Traxxas 2S 2200mAh @ $42... capable of 55 amps
    SPC 2S 2500mAh @ $20... capable of 125 amps
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  18. #18
    RC Racer
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    Jimmie I am very grateful for the advice you have given me, but I am a little confused. I never mentioned anything about buying a cheap, small, low C rating Lipo. All I'm trying to figure out is if it's possible to find a battery that would give me about the same run time as a 1/10 4000 mah or higher? Sorry if I offended you because that is honestly not my intention, I'm just confused by your reply.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    I was only trying to explain that there is no formula where you take a 10th scale run time and divide it into a 16th scale run time to get this mAh... each RC is going to consume capacity differently. Even the same RC driven by different people will consume capacity differently.

    It seems to me that you may be over complicating the battery decision process for your RC... there are not a whole lot of options for a 16th. Not ones I would trust anyway... the two mentioned above are about it. I had 2200mAh packs... they were not the greatest, but it is what noob me bought. I have learned a lot since then. I got about an hour run time out of a pair in parallel.

    I did not take any offense... one of the pitfalls of forum discussion is the lack of tone.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

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