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  1. #1
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    can't get it to idle

    I have a 3.3 that was just broken in.
    I'm have trouble getting it to idle, when I took off the air filter to check the gap for idling I noticed that it would spit nitro back out when I would rev it, is that normal?

    when braking in the engine it was revving really high and I would have to hold the brake to hold it in place but it wouldn't die but as soon as I start to lower the idle I start having problems with it dyeing I have play with LSN and did the pinch test but still no luck.

    one thing I noticed was when I'm driving it around with good temps, when I let off the throttle the engine revs up like in the LSN pinch test

  2. #2
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Make sure the gap within the carb is at 1.0mm. Then start with the LSN at 1.75 turns from closed. Your LSN sounds too lean.
    The Super Derecho

  3. #3
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    ok I'll give it a shot tomorrow thanks

  4. #4
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    I set the LSN to 1.75 turns and it was bogging from take off so turned it to down to about 1.25 and it stopped doing that but the pinch test was about 2 sec. and my temps were ok..
    then I started playing with the idle screw and it wasn't doing anything until it's almost out all the way but as soon as it starts to lower the idle just a little bit it begins to die
    I bought some gasket maker I'm going to put on the carb and back plate and see if that helps…..fingers crossed

  5. #5
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Pinch test needs to be around 3-4 seconds so your LSN is too lean. If you leave it like that you may be back saying you are having temperature issues. As I said, make sure your idle gap is 1.0mm open and leave it there. Are you tuning the HSN too? It should be HSN, then LSN and then idle (I hardly touch that though).
    The Super Derecho

  6. #6
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    yeah I'm going to adjust LSN again and my HSN is fine

    I started to seal my back plate and carb and while the engine was out I decided to check the bell clutch and found a broken spring I think thats what the issue was all along but now I'll have to wait till tomorrow and let it dry out…should've gone with my gut feeling

  7. #7
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    finally , it was the bell clutch that had a broken spring and was always engaged witch made the truck creep forward and kept the engine rpm high even when I would let off the gas as was driving it around that also wouldn't let me lower the rpm.

    if your having trouble lowering the rpm with the carb and you know how to do that you might want to check your bell clutch for a broken spring
    Last edited by b5125125; 01-17-2014 at 02:48 PM.

  8. #8
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Indications of broken spring: will want to creep when starting the engine; will only start with the tires off the ground and when you come to a stop the engine will stall.
    Just like having the clutch engaged in a manual transmission automobile and trying to start it (assuming the switch is disabled) or coming to a stop.
    The Super Derecho

  9. #9
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    it would only stall when the engine was warmed up,also would only start with the wheels off the ground once warmed up...thanks
    revo 3.3

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by b5125125 View Post
    it would only stall when the engine was warmed up,also would only start with the wheels off the ground once warmed up...thanks
    Definitely remove the engine and remove your clutch bell, check that clutch spring....

    Otherwise you will be chasing this thing round and round if this is the problem and it sure sounds like it to me. too +1 NN
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