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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
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    From stock to somewhat custom...

    I recently bought an E-Maxx 3908L Castle Brushless Edition. It's my first real RC and I'm having a blast driving it and thinking about what upgrades I want to do to it. Since I'm not mechanically inclined, I've bought some upgrades and have an appointment scheduled at my local hobby shop on Friday to have the truck rebuilt. Below is what I have so far:

    FLM 10700 LCG Chassis
    FLM 10010 Brushless Motor Mount
    RPM 81062/81072 Front/Rear Bulkheads
    RPM 80162 Front/Rear Shock Tower x2
    RPM 80462 Upper/Lower A-Arms x4
    RPM 80582 Front/Rear Axle Carriers x2
    Traxxas Shocks Big Bore
    Castle MM2 Waterproof ESC (to replace the MM1 that came with the truck)


    I haven't yet decided on front/rear skid plates or bumpers. Everything else I'm just planning to use what came in the stock truck (servos, receiver, transmission, etc.), unless there's some reason that you guys can tell me that I should change direction. I'm not planning to race...just drive and bash on all types of terrain.

    My biggest question is - Is there anything else significant that I am overlooking that should go ahead and be replaced now since the entire truck is going to be in pieces at the end of the week? Am I missing a no-brainer??

    Thanks guys!

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
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    Sounds like a good basher setup. Should be very durable. I would get some Traxxas CVD's as well. Let's see some pictures when you get it back.
    Big Air Don't Care

  3. #3
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    I think you are on your way to an awesome truck! I would honestly just keep it as is for now. Bash it, break it, make it stronger! I honestly think to start with the stock drive shafts will be ok, but cvd's are an upgrade you defintiely will want eventually. I broke one of my stock servos pretty quickly, went with one much stronger servo and have never looked back. T-Bone racing makes front & rear skids that are worth their weight in gold IMHO. Rear incorporates a wheelie bar that is much much better than the stock one, front will save your a-arms, suspension etc, and on top of that, if you break it, they will replace for free! Welcome to the world of the maxx, You will have an absolute blast!

  4. #4
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    Thanks Babby and Darksammy.

    Darksammy - I've seen the T-Bone racing bumpers that you referenced. Knowing that I'm replacing the stock chassis with an FLM 10700 LCG Aluminum chassis, do you know if the T-Bone front and rear bumpers will fit on this chassis? Also, are these 2 items mainly for bumper replacements or do they also serve as skid plates as well? If they are just for bumpers, is it safe for me to assume that I can still use front and rear skid plates in addition to these 2 bumpers? Lastly, what is a CVD and is there a certain brand that you recommend?

    Thanks!

  5. #5
    RC Champion
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    Your missing out not building it yourself! Its intimidating first time around, but after that it makes any adjustments or broken parts easy to do yourself. Take the money saved and get the flm shock towers for more suspension options. Welcome to the hobby, you have yourself one of the best out there!
    Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
    2400/2200/4000kv

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
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    CVD is an acronym for Constant Velocity Driveshafts. Here is a link to the Traxxas brand on Amainhobbies but they can be found cheaper on Ebay.

    http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...4-Revo-Maxx-33

    Again, like Sammy said, not a necessity, but you may want them eventually. I also ended up having to upgrade my steering servo. One good set of cartwheels and I heard a snap. Sure enough, the gears were toast. I ended up getting the high torque Savox SC-0251mg servo. Metal geared and fast for $40.
    Big Air Don't Care

  7. #7
    RC Champion
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    Is the savox waterproof?
    Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
    2400/2200/4000kv

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
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    watertown ny
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    No the savox 0251 mg is not waterproof i have two in my emaxx good servo though mine get all the crud the front tires kick up an they been fine. Olny thing i did to mine outta their package was degrease an use a better type

  9. #9
    RC Enthusiast
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    T-Bone racing skids will work on the FLM chassis. You can still run the front & rear bumbers, but they are sort of not needed, as the t-bone bumber will hit anything 1st. Because the T-Bone bumper is much wider, I just find it saves a-arms & knuckles too, as well as the chasis itself. Instead of maybe hitting a post with your wheel, & breaking things that the stock bumper would miss, the t-bone bumper covers your truck well. does not look the best, but has been my best upgrade to date, considering I am a terrible driver lol.

  10. #10
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    Thanks Darksammy.

    Are these 2 items mainly for bumper replacements or do they also serve as skid plates as well? If they are just for bumpers, is it safe for me to assume that I can still use front and rear skid plates in addition to these 2 bumpers?

  11. #11
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    They serve mainly as bumber replacements, but are skids as well. They fit over the stock skid. Have a look at my build thread on . . .
    Post #34 shows the pics of them mounted up. You can keep the bumpers mounted too, but just add? to weight, & I think the truck looks better without them, but that is just me. Up to you what you do... Hope this helps. :-)

    . . ., replace the * with . . . lol


    Edited for language abuse. If you see a starred out word in your post, you must edit it out to avoid earning warning points; this also applies when a website has been blocked by the language filter.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 02-01-2014 at 10:51 AM. Reason: merge & language abuse

  12. #12
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    I'm almost done boys. Thought I would be done today, but the added weight of the FLM LCG chassis and all of the RPM gear was too much for the Traxxas big bore shocks (red springs). The truck is sitting too low to the ground and won't "raise itself back to normal position" without some aid. I've ordered another set of shocks (UE10120) with better springs to hold the increased weight and should have it wrapped up by the end of next week. I'll post pics as soon as it's done. Even without the new shocks/springs yet, it looks awesome! Can't wait to get it wrapped up. Thanks for all of your help! More to follow...

    I'm ready to post before and after pics of my transformation! It doesn't look like I can post pics directly from my computer....seems like I can only insert pics from a url? How do I do this? What other site should I use to upload photos that I can then link to in this forum?? Any other specific directions would be appreciated. Thanks!

    Can someone help me with the above post??? Much appreciated!
    Last edited by cooleocool; 02-25-2014 at 07:25 PM. Reason: merge

  13. #13
    Traxxas Marshal
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    Quote Originally Posted by djjustice10 View Post
    It doesn't look like I can post pics directly from my computer....seems like I can only insert pics from a url? How do I do this?
    Check out this how-to.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  14. #14
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    Updated Pics!!

    Thanks for the insight cooleocool.

    My transformation included the following:
    ◦ FLM 10700 LCG Chassis
    ◦ FLM 10010 Brushless Motor Mount
    ◦ RPM 81062/81072 Front/Rear Bulkheads
    ◦ RPM 80162 Front/Rear Shock Tower
    ◦ RPM 80462 Upper/Lower A-Arms
    ◦ RPM 80582 Front/Rear Axle Carriers
    ◦ RPM 80103 Front Bumper (Chrome)
    ◦ RPM Rear Step Bumper (Chrome)
    ◦ RPM 80132 Front Skid Plate
    ◦ T-Bone Racing Rear (w/ wheelie bar) Bumper/Skid Plate
    ◦ Unlimited Engineering (UE) UE10120 RacerX SuperShock Kit
    ◦ Unlimited Engineering (UE) UE10126 SuperMaxx Springs
    ◦ Pro-Line PRO1198-13 Big Joe II 3.8 Tires
    ◦ Pro-Line PRO1184-11 Trencher X 3.8 Tires
    ◦ Castle MM2 Waterproof ESC
    ◦ Dynamite DYNP4001T (11.1v 3S 5200mah 50C) x2


    Below are pictures of my transformation:

    BEFORE (Stock E-Maxx 3908L)








    AFTER!!!



























    So far, so good!! Love it!

    Thanks to all for answering a number of my questions over the last few months!

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