Results 1 to 27 of 27
  1. #1
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,709

    New castle system for speed.

    So the speed bug has hit me. I have recently built a second rustler for my bashing needs, but this has left my original rustler sitting on the shelf. I started looking for information on speed based rustlers and have recently purchased a MMP sct 2400kv system. I want a fast truck, but not blindingly fast. 100+ is not my goal.

    I am personally looking for 80mph on 3s if its feasible.

    The battery Im looking at are Vicious Tek 3s 6500mah 60c batteries.
    I am getting 17mm hubs and x01 wheels and tires.
    I plan to set the ride height low, and order a swami wheelie bar.

    What other things should I be considering or getting?
    Is a capacitor a need? Can I keep the 2075 servo?
    What is necessity and what is optional?
    All info is greatly appreciated.
    Rustler, Alias, Stampede, and Aton+

  2. #2
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    2,092

    New castle system for speed.

    You're gonna need 4s to hit 80mph on that combo. On 3s, you just can't gear it high enough. The extra voltage is needed to increase the motor rpm's.

    Extra weight up front is almost always helpful. I have an 8oz piece of steel that velcro's to the top plate for when I want to do speed runs.

    I'd recommend mod1 gears. The 36t spur from the revo is cheap and works great. Pair that with a ~20t mod1 pinion, and you'll be hitting 80 easily.

    You can still use the 2075 servo, just lower your steering endpoints on the remote.

    Belted tires, or foams, are very helpful. Your choice of xo-1 tires will work fine.

    A cap is not needed.

    Good luck! 80mph in a rustler is quite exhilarating, but can be dangerous too. I'd start by hitting 50, 60, and so forth , working out any issues before going faster. Aerodynamics will play a big factor at 60 and above.
    Last edited by Jws1982; 05-11-2014 at 10:14 AM.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Rotterdam, Netherlands
    Posts
    8,638
    +1. You will need 4S with that motor. Jws1982 nailed it.
    Nobody is born with experience

  4. #4
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,709
    Ok. The mod one gears are they all 5mm bore? Does mod1 refer to the bore or the pitch of the pinion? The shaft on the motor I have is standard sized. 3mm?
    How do you fit a mod one gear on there?

    I was looking at running a 76 tooth spur and 31 tooth pinion, but will look into the other gears.
    I really want to remain conservative with my gearing to keep motor temps down.
    Rustler, Alias, Stampede, and Aton+

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    7,264
    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger_racer View Post
    Ok. The mod one gears are they all 5mm bore? Does mod1 refer to the bore or the pitch of the pinion? The shaft on the motor I have is standard sized. 3mm?
    How do you fit a mod one gear on there?
    more likely they are 5mm bore. Mod1 refer to pitch and you can get an adapter to fit 5mm bore pinions.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/OFNA-Pinion-...item51bd251dc8

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Mojave Desert
    Posts
    3,028
    Posted this same type of thread yesterday and I got no feedback.

  7. #7
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,709
    Thanks humayray.

    G-rustler, Im sorry that your thread didn't take off. What info were you wanting to know?
    Rustler, Alias, Stampede, and Aton+

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South of St Louis
    Posts
    6,369
    I've found mod .8 gearing to be more common, at least in my neck of the woods. Just make sure the pinion and spur are both either 1.0 or .8

    Does SPC make a 4s lipo yet? If so I'd go with that brand.

    It wouldnt hurt to drop in a plug-in capacitor. I believe its cheap insurance although you probably won't need one if you keep the stock servo.

    Consider a gyro. I experimented with one a couple years ago on my basher build and it really worked to keep my Rusty going in a straight line.

    +1 on the Swami-rc wheelie bar. Make sure you order the one that restricts wheelies. As I recall its the laid-back model. You can also mount it upside down to really keep the front on the ground.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  9. #9
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    2,092
    The spur gear I'm talking about is traxxas part 3953.

    Pretty much every mod1 pinion I've seen has been for a 5mm shaft. So Humayray's right, you'll need a bore reducer if your motor shaft is 3mm.

  10. #10
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    I've found mod .8 gearing to be more common, at least in my neck of the woods. Just make sure the pinion and spur are both either 1.0 or .8
    Yeah, if it was me, I'd stick with .8 mod. I believe it's the same as 32P.

  11. #11
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by Jws1982 View Post
    Pretty much every mod1 pinion I've seen has been for a 5mm shaft. So Humayray's right, you'll need a bore reducer if your motor shaft is 3mm.
    Hot Racing Steel Pinions usually come with a 5mm to 3mm conversion sleeve.

  12. #12
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    2,092
    Quote Originally Posted by badaboom7 View Post
    Yeah, if it was me, I'd stick with .8 mod. I believe it's the same as 32P.
    Traxxas to my knowledge does not have a 0.8 / 32p spur gear option that's as small in diameter as the 36t mod1. You can get a smaller 32p from another manufacturer, but I doubt it'll be as cheap.

    Also, the mod1 pinions are readily available at larger sizes than 32p's, especially 32p's with a 3mm bore.

    To speak to availability, even my LHS carries both that mod1 spur and the pinions needed to hit 80.

  13. #13
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    2,092

    New castle system for speed.

    Something else about a rustler doing speed runs. It takes some room to get up to 80, but it also takes a bit of room to properly slow back down without wrecking. The combination of XO-1 tires (not the most traction), rear wheel braking only, and the braking power first going through the differential, can cause the car can get out of control easier while trying to stop from that speed.

    I believe that was one of the factors in traxxas choosing a 4x4 platform for the xo-1. Many people say it performs better at speed with rear wheel drive only. But, it's pretty hard to stop properly from 100mph with just rear brakes.
    Last edited by Jws1982; 05-12-2014 at 12:21 PM.

  14. #14
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    37
    I've done speed runs with rustlers and Slash LCG 4x4; honestly, I had more fun with the Slash. I was able to go just under 80mph using a 2700kv 1/8 motor, 22t pinion, 54t spur, and 4s lipo.

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    256
    Quote Originally Posted by Jws1982 View Post

    I believe that was one of the factors in traxxas choosing a 4x4 platform for the xo-1. Many people say it performs better at speed with rear wheel drive only. But, it's pretty hard to stop properly from 100mph with just rear brakes.
    AWD drive def out performs RWD on the circle track but they are adding weight and drag with an AWD system. With the power of that car I'd say drag and weight is a mute point if not on purpose.
    ERBE, LaTrax Rally, E Jato, and Spartan

  16. #16
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,709
    Ok, so Ive had a nitro sport with a 3.3 and the highest speed gearing I could get on it. Was fun. I suppose this is my attempt all over again in the electric world.
    Now with that said, I know a 4x4 is a much better platform to work with and I thank you for the input, but this is a rustler in the rustler forum. Its what ive got and what I want to run. If it fails miserably ill switch to a 4x4 setup.

    I have looked into some steel to mount up front and xo1 wheels are still on the bay with highest bid but one day to go. Hope I can win them.

    I ordered strc 17mm hubs in green, as traxxas looks to only have blue.
    I already have rpm arms, towers, rear motor guard, and front bumper. What should I look at as far as other chassis style upgrades?
    Rustler, Alias, Stampede, and Aton+

  17. #17
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    2,092
    I modded my chassis to use Velcro straps. That way I can strap in any battery size.

    You may already have these, but some aluminum rear carriers and front caster blocks are a good upgrade. They wouldn't be necessary for your needs, but still nice.

    You might reinforce your body with shoe goo. Some extra rigidity would help with aerodynamics.

    The stock driveshafts may not hold up long under the power of your system. The slash 4x4 axles are a little beefier, and roughly the same price as the rustler axles.

    If you don't have the front fiberglass tie bar, get one, and the proper a-arm pins to use it. It comes standard in the vxl model.

    The stock ESC plate gets in the way of tall batteries, especially 4s lipos. Consider mounting your ESC on the side of the chassis, opposite the receiver box.

    Consider flipping that RPM front bumper over. That way, it doesn't create as much lift at speed.

    Make sure your wheel bearings are rolling smooth and clean. 80mph will push those bearings to the limit.

    Wow, this is a long post. Sorry, I got carried away. Upgrade whatever you want, how you want, and let us know the results!

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    745
    80 shouldn't be too hard.

    I hit 71mph with my MMP/3800kv Rustler this past weekend geared 22/50 with a 3s. I think if I lowered it a bit more, and went up a couple teeth on the pinion I'd easily hit 80.
    Bashin' n' crashin'

  19. #19
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    37
    What about one of those STRC 2wd Slash lowering kits? That would make your Rustler longer, and perhaps more stable at high speed.

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    745
    Not sure about the STRC kit but on my new Rusty build I'm gonna go with the wide mod up front and some 1/8 rally wheels. I think that would make it plenty stable at 80+mph. Also the Bulldog body really helps with extra down force too. Down force is better than adding a stack of lead weights up front IMO.
    Bashin' n' crashin'

  21. #21
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    37
    I've never tried it, but I've always wondered if a rollcage would be better for speed runs instead of a body.

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    745
    Quote Originally Posted by badaboom7 View Post
    I've never tried it, but I've always wondered if a rollcage would be better for speed runs instead of a body.
    I'm almost sure a body would be better aerodynamically. I like the bulldog but even the stock rusty body is good if you take the rear spoiler off.
    Bashin' n' crashin'

  23. #23
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    37
    I though rear spoilers added stability. I'm going to have to test the rollcage idea. I have a VG Rally cage I could try; I think the air will pass right through the bars - to heck with being aerodynamic!

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Rotterdam, Netherlands
    Posts
    8,638
    An important factor in aerodynamics is the size of the frontal surface area. With a roll cage you decrease that significantly. You probably get a less efficient airflow but I doubt if that is a more important factor.

    Wings might increase downforce on the rear end, but often make the front end lighter. One thing is clear: they increase drag.
    Nobody is born with experience

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South of St Louis
    Posts
    6,369
    Quote Originally Posted by badaboom7 View Post
    I've never tried it, but I've always wondered if a rollcage would be better for speed runs instead of a body.
    My Pede and Slash have rollcages and they've never flipped up at speed. I don't know about higher speeds but I've reached the mid 40's with them.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  26. #26
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    37
    I think we might have something here. All the time and effort people put into being aerodynamic might be misplaced. I'm excited to try this, but I stopped doing speed runs after I got tired of fixing broken parts after each run. It gets expensive.

  27. #27
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,709
    Update time I suppose.
    Everything has been ordered except an aluminum transmission case.
    Pinion and pinion adapter are still on the way. Lipos should arrive tomorrow. Picked up two 2s 5000 50c to use on both this truck and my BL emaxx whenever I finish building it. Also ordered a 6500 70c 3s for goofing around.
    Too many projects with too little cash. Lol.
    Pictures will follow once I piece it all together.
    Rustler, Alias, Stampede, and Aton+

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •