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  1. #1
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    Done with Tekno, Hello MIP

    I was out bashing with my nephew, and suddenly truck started turning left (like a broken driveshaft, we all been there), drove it back over to where I was standing and found this. I removed the broken parts and took the pic. Its hard to tell from the pic but the drive shaft is also bent.

    I will give Tekno another call and see what they can or can not do for me. I have had nothing but problems after installing these, and have to worry every time I run whether or not if I will have another problem. I know alot of people praise these driveshafts, and have had no issues. But I think its time to order some MIPs. I never have to worry about the my rear MIPs. One year and not a single issue.

    I haven't been running RC's as much lately, my other passion has taken over in this better weather. Got a new Bustin Longboard and have been riding it as much as possible!
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  2. #2
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    Welcome to X-Duty. There is no better.
    Just Bash it!
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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    nice carnage!! unfortunately with this hobby breakage can happen at anytime.


    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...indestructible
    Last edited by humayrayakongkinaon; 05-11-2014 at 09:51 PM.

  4. #4
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    Won't be disappointed! Many suggest using red locktite. I use blue and let it dry overnight, no problems since
    <P4de VXL|Castle 3800kv|MM2|MIP|STRC|Proline|SPC>

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramflames View Post
    Welcome to X-Duty. There is no better.
    I am in total agreement with that statement. My rear MIPs are holding up great. I went with the teknos for less mass and from all the praise they get from members in this forum. I was hoping there would be no issues, but I am naturally un-lucky. Lesson learned by spending $40ish...
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  6. #6
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Done with Tekno, Hello MIP

    And there have never been any reports of MIPs coming apart, snapping etc?
    And at a much higher rate than the Teknos?
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  7. #7
    RC Champion skmfkr's Avatar
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    sorry to hear that. my tekno rc rear shafts are like the only thing ive had to upgrade on my p4de. the only other thing ive broke was front a arms. oh yeah and i got alum shock caps in the rear.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    My teknos have been rock solid but I will be trying mips next.
    I believe tekno has a life time warranty on yokes and most steel parts however not the plastic.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 05-11-2014 at 09:58 PM.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    My teknos have been rock solid but I will be trying mips next.
    I believe tekno has a life time warranty on yokes and most steel parts however not the plastic.
    Was just reading their warranty info and it appears the yoke will be covered, but the driveshaft might not be. Cost is what ever it take to ship the broken part to them and $2 for them to send a new part. Will try to warranty, but then will just sell to offset cost of new MIPs.

    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    And there have never been any reports of MIPs coming apart, snapping etc?
    And at a much higher rate than the Teknos?
    Not trying to say that MIPs don't break, I'm just saying I prefer them. I personally have had great success with my rear MIPs. I am not trying to bash Tekno, just sharing my experience with the members of this fine forum. I also use the center driveshaft and have had zero issues with it. Please edit and combine with my post above...
    Last edited by cooleocool; 05-12-2014 at 08:05 AM. Reason: merge
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  10. #10
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    It's all preference, i have both x duties and tekno's. I like the simplicity of the teknos aswell as the oversized bearings. They also weigh less and i prefer their 17mm conversion compared to mip's option!

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    I believe there is not much difference in strength between the Tekno and MIP solution. I like the lower rotating mass of the Teknos. My personal experience so far: one broken MIP shaft and a bent one, no Tekno failure.
    Nobody is born with experience

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    I don't have MIP but I manage to bent my tekno due to broken steering drag link smacking it into the curb.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    I don't have MIP but I manage to bent my tekno due to broken steering drag link smacking it into the curb.
    Your experience doesn't count. You drive into things
    Nobody is born with experience

  14. #14
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    I have had mip's for a while now with no issues other than the occasional screw loosening. Never had enough faith in tekno's to try them. I have a question though. To everyone who claim they went with tekno's for less rotating mass exactly what advantage is that? And with the rotating mass of the big monster truck tires is it even a noticeable difference?

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimdog's Avatar
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    The only issue I have had with the mip shafts is screws REFUSING to come out.
    This will TOTALLY work, saw a guy on YouTube do it

  16. #16
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hirschowl View Post
    Not trying to say that MIPs don't break, I'm just saying I prefer them. I personally have had great success with my rear MIPs. I am not trying to bash Tekno, just sharing my experience with the members of this fine forum. I also use the center driveshaft and have had zero issues with it...
    All products can be broken, whether the name on them is Tekno, MIP, Traxxas, or other. You are well within your rights choose whichever product you want to install on your vehicle. IMO, the break you experienced is not common and I would not have chosen it as a reason to switch types, but diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks.

    @K Money: The additional rotational inertia probably amounts to a a bump on a bug's butt [edit: when running 3S and 4S with a Castle MMPro/1415 motor system combo as I do]. I just prefer to to the same amount of work with less material.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 05-12-2014 at 12:07 PM.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimdog View Post
    The only issue I have had with the mip shafts is screws REFUSING to come out.
    this is my only bad experiance also, my output cup is forever stuck on the shaft comming out of th diff, the blue loctite managed to seep down past the threads and coat the entire length of the pin. ruined several hex drivers and allen keys trying to get it out before the mip pin finally stripped. only a few hours of use, but atleast MIP is sending me a new pack of pins and a new output free of charge. Awesome warrenty and customer service.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by morehousej View Post
    this is my only bad experiance also, my output cup is forever stuck on the shaft comming out of th diff, the blue loctite managed to seep down past the threads and coat the entire length of the pin. ruined several hex drivers and allen keys trying to get it out before the mip pin finally stripped. only a few hours of use, but atleast MIP is sending me a new pack of pins and a new output free of charge. Awesome warrenty and customer service.
    try heating it up with a lighter, the Loctite melts and it'll come right off. I had one stubborn grub screw that was strip so, that's what I did.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    try heating it up with a lighter, the Loctite melts and it'll come right off. I had one stubborn grub screw that was strip so, that's what I did.
    I was going to suggest the same basic concept, but using a soldering iron to isolate the heat to the area with the Loctite that refuses to budge otherwise.

    I'll add that I have Tekno on the front and rear, and love them. As for the rotational mass....the less rotating mass you have, the more responsive the truck will be, especially during acceleration. Rotating mass is more important than the overall mass of the truck, since it is what the motor has to fight when you apply power. That same theory goes for heavy wheel/tire combos too.
    Last edited by Zephus; 05-12-2014 at 11:29 AM.

  20. #20
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    Listen. It basically comes down to opinions, and opinions will always differ. Like Chevy V.S. Ford. No matter what it is, No matter how it is driven. Something, somewhere, It's going to wear out or break, Period!
    Just Bash it!
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramflames View Post
    Listen. It basically comes down to opinions, and opinions will always differ. Like Chevy V.S. Ford. No matter what it is, No matter how it is driven. Something, somewhere, It's going to wear out or break, Period!
    Yes! But the part's lifespan on the longrun is what we should really look at.
    <P4de VXL|Castle 3800kv|MM2|MIP|STRC|Proline|SPC>

  22. #22
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    Note: I was speaking in general. Not limited to just axle shafts.
    Just Bash it!
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  23. #23
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    I would guess Hirschowl that you broke your teknos on 4s, i may be wrong but my mips handle 3s no sweat. Imo im not sure p4de is suitable for 4s, its just too much power, you gotta expect to break things when that much torque and power is applied be it tekno or mip, again just my opinion. Thats the reason i dont run 6s in my 1/8 truck. I know it'll do it but carnage is inevitable. Thats my 2 cents.

  24. #24
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    Teknos on 4s. Trenchers on rear mounted to 3.2 revolvers. Slash 4x4 chassis, 2650kv, Geared 19/52 on a Hobbywing WP-SC8 ESC.
    No bent shafts!
    A front drive pin did break though!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    try heating it up with a lighter, the Loctite melts and it'll come right off. I had one stubborn grub screw that was strip so, that's what I did.
    i tried heating... no luck, this guy is really set in there. have since drilled it out, wering out several bits and snapping 2 off. these MIP pins are extremely tough. 135* split tip cobalt drill bit, ruined in about 40 seconds of drilling.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by roscoeP View Post
    I would guess Hirschowl that you broke your teknos on 4s
    Nope just 3s.

    I was at LHS today and ordered the mip#11110. I will give an update if the extra rotating mass will change my running temps with the 2400kv. Also spoke with Tekno and they will warranty the yoke, but probably not the dogbone. I will see how that goes, but will probably have some spare tekno parts for sale..
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    try heating it up with a lighter, the Loctite melts and it'll come right off. I had one stubborn grub screw that was strip so, that's what I did.
    I find a soldering iron works better, if you can get it on the screw. Just a few seconds does the trick.

  28. #28
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    Tekno have less up sprung mass so truck theoretically would handle better suspension would respond faster. I just went with tekno because they were simple and cheaper and came with a bunch of extras to change toe and bump steer and all that. Not saying anything wrong with mip axles I have never tried them they were just more money

  29. #29
    RC Champion No One's Avatar
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    The only issue I have seen with the Tekno was the barrels and pins getting broken, and that seems to be on 4s. Keep us updated.
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  30. #30
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    I have broken a barrel once but I didn't get teknos thinking nothing could ever happen to them they can break just like any other part and tekno was great and got me new pins and barrels

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    All products can be broken, whether the name on them is Tekno, MIP, Traxxas, or other. You are well within your rights choose whichever product you want to install on your vehicle. IMO, the break you experienced is not common and I would not have chosen it as a reason to switch types, but diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks.

    @K Money: The additional rotational inertia probably amounts to a a bump on a bug's butt [edit: when running 3S and 4S with a Castle MMPro/1415 motor system combo as I do]. I just prefer to to the same amount of work with less material.
    +1, poop happens get over it.
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  32. #32
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    Teknos are great for flat running and small jumps but in the bigger jumps my shafts bend pretty easily on bad landings. Maybe the the flex of the rpm arms causing it. I don't know.

  33. #33
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    It depends on yur driving syle I went with teknos on my p4de but I'm gonna go with MIPS with the sl2sh I'm getting

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigairrc View Post
    Teknos are great for flat running and small jumps but in the bigger jumps my shafts bend pretty easily on bad landings. Maybe the the flex of the rpm arms causing it. I don't know.
    RPM arms are not good for Tekno shafts. I switched back to stock about 4 months ago, and haven't broken an arm or bent a shaft since.

  35. #35
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    Rpm is tough but everything has it's ups and downs

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    RPM is harder to break, but more easy to bend.
    Nobody is born with experience

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    its funny to say that my tekno CVD bend at a slow crash over a curve a month ago but few days ago, got run over and the CVD survived

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by fls4 View Post
    It's all preference, i have both x duties and tekno's. I like the simplicity of the teknos aswell as the oversized bearings. They also weigh less and i prefer their 17mm conversion compared to mip's option!
    Yep I love my teknos but MIPS are just so beefy

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Yeah they are super beefy but when mine go into retirement I want to try out teknos and see how sweet they are.....Peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  40. #40
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    They are SOOO simple and pretty tough

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