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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
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    May 2014
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    275

    3 days with the Teton

    Hey guys. New to the traxxas forum. Figured I'd join up to gain support on my newly acquired Teton. I've been into RC since diapers and got my first hobby grade when I was 13. Duratrax evader ST. Since then I've had helis', nitro planes, brushed trucks/cars of many sorts and companies. I fell out of the hobby for the past few years but I saw the teton and I really had to try it out.

    I've ran maybe 6 packs thru the truck since I received it on Friday May 9th and the motor is already shot. I didn't really break it in so could be my fault. Didn't run it on grass the first pack though just speed runs on asphalt. The motor was super hot that first time. Toughest thing it's been thru is some 1.5" grass and it didn't really seem to phase it. Other than that short bit I have been running thru mulch on the playground area in my apartments so my son can play as well. It glide and drifts nice on top of the mulch and I built a mini ramp of mulch. Only got a max of maybe 11" of air time. What was odd to me is on my last run I ran it easy and only went to full throttle just before hitting the jump. The motor didn't heat up too badly that round. I let the car and battery cool and charged it again (standard wall charger) and when I plugged up the battery no motor response. I tried to calibrate the esc and still nothing. Called traxxas and he said it must be the motor. Only thing I did after that last run was take off the plastic guards that hold the motor and cover the gears to blow off dirt. I only used my own breath and a small cloth. The guy said I could've broken the brushes with just my own breath and said not to blow any compressed air into the motor. He is sending me a new motor but I still don't think that I could've damaged it with just my own breath.

    I was thinking of getting the dromida speed kit which had the 22 turn brushed 370 with a 12t pinion and heat sink. Anyone tried that out?

    I'm not looking to go brushless just yet. I don't want to shell out that much on upgrades because I do still want a 1/10 scaler or maybe the 1/14 Tacon SCT.

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    161
    Hey there, welcome to the club! It's a fun little truck, my son and I go thru parts like crazy, but don't let that scare ya cause we bash them hard.

    I have had a lot of success with the losi LOSB1218 motor and the #ASC21210 team associated motors.

    Heat sink and fan make a huge difference.

    Have fun.

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    210
    The only thing you will be able to use from the dromida speed kit is the motor and ESC. The pinion is a different pitch, I have the dromida and the Teton. The only benefit from the dromida speed kit is probably you will not have to mod your motor plate, not too sure because I never touched that motor. I personally would rather get a mamba micro pro on eBay for a little less, mod the motor plate.

    Oh, you said brushed speed kit, sorry :P
    Last edited by jackislost; 05-13-2014 at 02:56 AM.

  4. #4
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    May 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yinzer View Post
    Hey there, welcome to the club! It's a fun little truck, my son and I go thru parts like crazy, but don't let that scare ya cause we bash them hard.

    I have had a lot of success with the losi LOSB1218 motor and the #ASC21210 team associated motors.

    Heat sink and fan make a huge difference.

    Have fun.
    .

    I was looking online for a heat sink/fan combo for a 1/18 scale i found a few but theyre unclear on it the plug that goes into the receiver for power is the correct one. Are they all typically the same?

    Quote Originally Posted by jackislost View Post
    The only thing you will be able to use from the dromida speed kit is the motor and ESC. The pinion is a different pitch, I have the dromida and the Teton. The only benefit from the dromida speed kit is probably you will not have to mod your motor plate, not too sure because I never touched that motor. I personally would rather get a mamba micro pro on eBay for a little less, mod the motor plate.

    Oh, you said brushed speed kit, sorry :P
    lol yea im not sure if i want to go thru the hastle of brushless on this car just yet. I was hearing the clicking noise about 2 runs before this last run where the motor died. It went away after that, i assume it may have just been a piece of mulch rubbing the drif shaft or mabe the wheels. Thats initally why i took the motor out of the case to clean it and be sure it was ok. There were no plastic shaving or anything, just a small amount of dirt. I'm still lost on why my motor didnt work after that. Seems like a couple guys lost theirs after runnign 2S Lipo's. I didnt even get to have that kind of fun! lol.

    What break in do you guys think is best for the stock motor? Water? Dry? I'd also really like to order that Heatsink/Fan before my new motor gets here so i can make this one last longer.

  5. #5
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    161

    3 days with the Teton

    I have two of these, plug into empty receiver slot. Only issue is I had to bend them a tad to get them around the 370 motors and I also put one on my toro brushless.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/161264693792

    Looks like the listing has ended but maybe you could find similar.
    Last edited by Yinzer; 05-13-2014 at 10:42 AM.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
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    May 2014
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    Good find. I may already have funds for to get a 1/10 scale or just another truck of some sort. I'm partial to the Slash but not the titan motor. I've had a rustler with that titan motor..they die quickly.

    Telluride is on my radar but still has the titan.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
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    May 2014
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    Oh and I ordered that team associated motor tosay. Will be here tomorrow. Got it on Amazon for 11 bucks shipped

  8. #8
    RC Champion
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    Feb 2013
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    I have 2 Tetons with the TA motors and they have been great. Got my diff spools but i'm redoing my workshop and everything is packed away. Hopefully that will solve the diff problems when I can get to them. I have a slash 4X4 Ultimate with the Velinom motor and it has been great. Cant believe how tough it is. IMO... If you want the best truck available from anybody its the full size Summit. I have a number of them and they are the best RTR vehicle period. They have some great upgrades if you choose, either way they are virtually indestructible. Dollar for dollar pound for pound you cant do better than a Summit. That Slash Ultimate is a real close second. Either way Enjoy.
    "Better Old and Devious than Young and Exuberant"

  9. #9
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    May 2014
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    Soldered in the team associated motor and took it out for a break in. I ran it to full speed slowly and used no brake or reverse for about 20 minutes. It didn't show any signs of dying. I touched the motor a few times. It started to heat up towards the end a good bit. I then ran it in the mulch on the playground for another 10 minutes. Finally at 34 mins it died. I have never seen that kind of run time before. It seemed maybe a tad faster but I noticed more torque. I'm worried about the diffs clicking though.

    On another note...which of the 1/16 slash 4x4 brushed or the 1/10 slash 2wd brushed is better? Both are 199 on amazon

  10. #10
    RC Racer
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    Jan 2014
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    210
    If u have somewhere to run a 1/10, 1/10 will be more of a better bash and race than a 1/16 IMO. The small scales usually break easier and need upgrades

  11. #11
    RC poster
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    May 2014
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    4
    How fast are these lil trucks?

  12. #12
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    Eh, they top out at about 17-18 mph stock on Ni-Mh batteries, I would guess somewhere around 25 with a 2s lipo and it acclerates quicker but youre likely to over heat the motror without a cooling system.. With the Team associated brushed motor I got a gps verified of 20.2 mph. For their size they are fast. when my 1/16 slash was brushed still with the 550 titan the 1/10 scales use i could only slowly pass the Teton up in a drag race. Now that my slash is brushless tho i kinda just blow by it. lol For the money they are worth it.

  13. #13
    RC Competitor
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    May 2014
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    84
    Stock it's not very fast, but with a few upgrades it will get quite quick. However, it is too fragile to handle any additional power. I'm learning that now. First diff gone, and another shock as well.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfpaw View Post
    Stock it's not very fast, but with a few upgrades it will get quite quick. However, it is too fragile to handle any additional power. I'm learning that now. First diff gone, and another shock as well.
    Most of the issues are circumstantial. If you do alot of full reverse to full forward manuevers or donuts...jumps, climbing objects you shouldnt...youre gonna break something. The parts are smaller so therefore weaker by default. I have had rollovers, flips, bumps, and have not broken a single shock. Usually people tend to break shocks by hitting something that can get to between the A-Arm and the wheel, shuch as a table or chair leg. I have contemplated pickink up a small square of sheet metal and fabbing up a shock gaurd that i will glue to the bottom of the A-Arm and then bend 90 degrees up to shield the shocks. Motors tend to die from terrain that is toooo toooo much work for the vehicle, like tall grass or thick mud. mine went from too tall of grass and just full throttle thru it it alll day. A little prevenative measures will help such as a heatsink/fan and not driving it like you stole it the whole battery pack. Also 2s Lipo pushes the heat even further. If youre gonna add power it only makes sense to get the metal drive shafts to go along with it. As far as the differentials, It took about 1 week for my rear one to go out. It went out after a few days worth of jumping on a mulch made ramp on the play park that pu tthe car about 2 feet off the ground. (YOU MUST MAKE SURE TO LET OFF THE THROTTLE JUST BEFORE THE WHEELS HIT THE GORUND THIS WILL TAKE STRESS OFF THE DIFFS WHEN YOU LAND) However, do not let go at the peak of your jump as the stall in wheel and motor rotation will flip the car forward a tad. My only wish is that someone would make some METAL SPIDER GEARS...maybe the cost to make such small ones in metal is too high and not worth it to any compaines. All i know is i would buy a $20 set of metal spider gears if they last 10x longer than the plastic ones. The relief from opening up the diffs every so often would be worth the price alone. I would love an absolute ALL metal gear drive system.

    Even after all of that the Teton is a good value to fun vehicle that is fun to mod.

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