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Thread: P4de build

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darrath View Post
    I just got a pede a couple weeks ago, new version with the 4 pole motor. I installed the sway bars with the shock guards on, just need to swap out the ball studs on the sway bars with the hollow ball mounts. The same ones the shocks use on the bottom. They are the same width of the spacer that is in the guards. I just got the rod end kit number 5525. 4 or 6 of the ends have the correct size hollow ball mount.
    For the hollow balls you can also get the Jato shim set Traxxas number 5529. It has four balls, some washers, and two thick shims for a little over 3 dollars. The thick shim is also just the right height to replace the two stacked washers on the Tekno steering blocks where the tie rods bolt on.

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Er33 View Post
    Yea that's prob it the avatar. I see so many things on here I forget who did what to what. I'm glad I went with the 2650kv though. There's little to no room for the esc

    Either here or
    Here
    That's a nice fit dude I hope that motor out performs your expectations please give us a review of it after a few runs.....peace
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  3. #83
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    Yea I'm sure it will. It'll be a lot better then the stock system

  4. #84
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    Well I got everything hooked up. I just need to make the mounting plate for the esc and heat shrink the connectors and the stretchy wire loom then figure out how to run the wires and keep them out of the way. Just wondering bout this switch on where to put it. Hmmm

  5. #85
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    I mounted my switch on a piece of plastic plate and double sided tape on top of servo.


    cant wait to see that beast in action

  6. #86
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    Have u had problems with your switch in that direction shutting off with a head collision

  7. #87
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    no problem at all, this switch takes a beating before it can actually slide over unless you keep turning it on/off to the point it wear out, I keep mine on all the time, I normally unplug the battery.

  8. #88
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    I had this issue with my WP-SC8 that the switch shut off on really hard landings.

  9. #89
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    I used the mount plate that came with the hobbywing sc8 and screwed it to the servo like the vxl3s.

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pede4x4owner View Post
    I used the mount plate that came with the hobbywing sc8 and screwed it to the servo like the vxl3s.
    Yea I can't do that with the mount plate. I had to shave my screw mounts off so the motor could fit and some of the plastic where the center shaft is. There's like 1/8" or less of play between motor esc and servo. So I'll have to make a plate to fit a tight spot. I was gonna use it not knowing how long my motor was had it mounted then motor finally came in and I just out it above my stock motor where it should sit and noticed how far back it goes and was like well I can scrap that since it's not gonna work.

  11. #91
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  12. #92
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    I put my on/off switch next to the antenna and servo and have had no problems even with bad crashes dude.....peace
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  13. #93
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    if that's the case I would just cut and solder the wires together. I solder my MM and probably do the same with my MMP, I leave my switch all the time and only unplug the battery.

  14. #94
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    That's cool. I'll figure somewhere to put it for my likings lol

  15. #95
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    What's this cogging everyone talks about. Is that like hesitation or?

  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Er33 View Post
    What's this cogging everyone talks about. Is that like hesitation or?
    Barely tap on the throttle it just jumps. But yeah hesitation is a good word to describe it.

  17. #97
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    It jerks just before it runs smooth that's cogging my friend.....peace
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  18. #98
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    sensorless motor are known to cog but once it gets going its smooth, not familiar with sensor motors but they are smooth at any throttle given.

  19. #99
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    Thanks for the meaning of cogging guys. I'll watch it when I get a chance to run it
    Well here's some pics of everything installed

    That's the plate I had to make for esc and switch and below is with them installed


  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Er33 View Post
    Thanks for the meaning of cogging guys. I'll watch it when I get a chance to run it
    Well here's some pics of everything installed

    That's the plate I had to make for esc and switch and below is with them installed

    Well done.

  21. #101
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    Nice job with the installation dude and I bet that setup is one serious beast.....peace
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  22. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Nice job with the installation dude and I bet that setup is one serious beast.....peace
    I'm gonna find out today after work. And mess around with setting up the esc

  23. #103
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    Do you have the program card dude.turn the drag brake off and turn the timing down to the lowest level all these do is create heat if your a basher.and the other settings you need to play with to get it to drive how you like it......peace
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  24. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Do you have the program card dude.turn the drag brake off and turn the timing down to the lowest level all these do is create heat if your a basher.and the other settings you need to play with to get it to drive how you like it......peace
    Yep it came with the card. I think I set the timing to 3.75. And I don't remember if the next lowest is 0. I don't have it in front of me right now. And drag brake I'll have to turn off as I think it's at 25%. There's other things in there that has to do with brakes like brake force again I think lol. Punch control I don't remember what I have it set for.

  25. #105
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    Drag Brake is not activated from Factory on the WP-SC8.

    2.Drag Brake Force: 0%

    I also run on 0% timing.

  26. #106
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I have the sensored version and comes with 25% from factory dude.plus I have my punch between 3-5 ....peace
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  27. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    I have the sensored version and comes with 25% from factory dude.plus I have my punch between 3-5 ....peace
    I have my punch set to 9 at the moment. LOL

    But with the Castle 1415 2400KV Motor it is had to control even on 3s.
    Last edited by soundmaster; 07-18-2014 at 05:18 PM.

  28. #108
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    I have tried mine on a higher setting but it just goes crazy on 3s not that's a bad thing ....peace
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  29. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    Drag Brake is not activated from Factory on the WP-SC8.

    2.Drag Brake Force: 0%

    I also run on 0% timing.
    Ok I'll set that

    Punch control = torque? Or no

  30. #110
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    It changes how aggressively the motor accelerates to the max rpm which in a way ups the torque dude......peace
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  31. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    It changes how aggressively the motor accelerates to the max rpm which in a way ups the torque dude......peace
    Ok thanks guys. Eventually I'll get all this terminology lol

  32. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Er33 View Post
    Ok thanks guys. Eventually I'll get all this terminology lol
    Setting Punch Control to a lower level really helps controlling the truck and takes stress from the drivetrain.

  33. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    Setting Punch Control to a lower level really helps controlling the truck and takes stress from the drivetrain.
    Thanks. I think it's set low. Real low

  34. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Er33 View Post
    Thanks. I think it's set low. Real low
    Good Idea dude

  35. #115
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    I got mine at 6 right now. No breaks so far.

  36. #116
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    I have mine set at 4 at the moment because I am only running 3s with my tenshock but even if I get fresh with the throttle it's on its back at 3/4 throttle.......peace
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  37. #117
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    Yea I set it to 1geared 21/54 and I seen what you guys meant by cogging So I changed it to 16/54 and cogging wasn't there as much. So I set punch to 3 and it seems better. Wheelies longer geared either way and punch set to whatever. And temp was about 130 on motor and 109 on esc. After 15-20 mins of wheelies and just speed runs. It did hit 140 mark on motor. I think that was when I set punch higher and geared lower. I'll confirm that tomorrow though as I ran different gears and punch settings. And now I changed the slipper gear to 50. So it's set 21/50. I did break my stock rear bumper and wheelie bar and now it's got rpm rear bumper. And added some lights

  38. #118
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Sounds sick dude I bet it hauls as well......peace
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  39. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Sounds sick dude I bet it hauls as well......peace
    Yes it fast. Well faster then stock. I need to put gps on it and see how fast it really is


    To anyone. Would upgrading to alum diff cups be worth it or waste of time and money. I do have the upgraded diffs 6882x and oh crap the plastic diff cup now for the 6882x. Forgot number

  40. #120
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    don't go aluminum diff cups, there's a thread by El Sob and some that have tried aluminum cups end up going back to stock or the XO-1 diffs.

    so, how do you rate that motor now?

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