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Thread: P4de build

  1. #241
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    You only live once dude and you can run it all year round with out any temp problems and have all the speed and torque you can dream of and some....peace
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  2. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    You only live once dude and you can run it all year round with out any temp problems and have all the speed and torque you can dream of and some....peace
    That's a few reasons I would like to get it. Yr round system. I know my hw is water proof. Not so sure on motor as it's labeled on road don't know what that means really. Only thing I see different between my 2650 and cc 2650 is outside wise the back plate cc has a closed plate as mine is open to where you can see the shaft and bearing. As the snow season is near burrrr I'd like to have fun in it guess I can get it. And put my system in my oldest sons slash and somehow cover the hole in the back

  3. #243
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Sounds like your son will be stoked with that combo dude I would put a dab of bearing grease over the exposed shaft and then cover it will a piece of lexan just lightly glued so water can't get in and cause damaged....peace
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  4. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Sounds like your son will be stoked with that combo dude I would put a dab of bearing grease over the exposed shaft and then cover it will a piece of lexan just lightly glued so water can't get in and cause damaged....peace
    Yea. But after I posted that and started looking at like the traxxas 2400 kv. It's the same way the back is open and on the actual cc one it's closed off lol. I just need to test it to see if water would hurt it. Heck it was only a $40 motor I got my losi wheel balancer in today man all 8 of my wheels was out. I figured they would have been

  5. #245
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    The traxxas funny car motor is a awesome powerhouse made by castle...peace bro
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  6. #246
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    Well I finally drove my truck after installing the new bumpers. Man I love this wheelie bar on the tbone. Wide stance on it keeps the truck from rocking side to side on the back wheels and able to ride it long. Also ran it with out fan on esc as it went out on me. And temps was high. 133 motor 159 on esc ouch. I've seen it before and like always I can't find it. So Untill I get a new fan and/or new system what's the formula of motor temp to esc temp over geared under geared

  7. #247
    RC Champion soundmaster's Avatar
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    Usually it is overgeared, so you'll have to gear down until the temps drop.

    I don't know the exact max temps for an esc but I try to stay below 130 for the esc and 160 for the motor.

  8. #248
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    Not that you ever want to get there, but the esc does have a thermal overload to prevent it from overheating. Not sure what the temp it shuts down at. I think you get a fast red flash from the esc when in thermal overload...
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  9. #249
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    Every time you force the esc into thermal shutdown its life expectancy will be reduced drastically.

  10. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    Usually it is overgeared, so you'll have to gear down until the temps drop.

    I don't know the exact max temps for an esc but I try to stay below 130 for the esc and 160 for the motor.
    So if I'm geared 20/50. And I went to 19/50 I'm going in right direction?

  11. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by Er33 View Post
    So if I'm geared 20/50. And I went to 19/50 I'm going in right direction?
    Exactely. But I would probably go 2-3 Tooth at once.

    What motor and Lipos are you running? 2s or 3s?
    Last edited by soundmaster; 09-28-2014 at 02:18 PM.

  12. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    Exactely. But I would probably go 2-3 Tooth at once.

    What motor and Lipos are you running? 2s or 3s?
    Wp Sc8 esc with 2650 motor. On 3s 70c 6500mha smc batt
    I think My next one lower is a 16t pin. So I'll go to that. The fan on my esc isn't working either due to me going to 3s or it was time to go from all the banging around I put it through lol.

  13. #253
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    Yeah the fan on the esc not working will add to the extra heat dude just have a look on ebay for a replacement and you should be all good dudeplus stick to a 18-19t pinion.....peace
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  14. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Yeah the fan on the esc not working will add to the extra heat dude just have a look on ebay for a replacement and you should be all good dudeplus stick to a 18-19t pinion.....peace
    Yea in trying to bring heat down on esc due to fan not working. And Untill I get a replacement. 19t didn't work as temps was still up there. So after running 20 min on same batt I started on last night either I hit lvc or thermal mode yikes. Esc was at 161 that was geared 19/50 motor at 133. I didn't put my lipo checker on to see what voltage my cells was at to verify which mode I was in as I had to leave. I'll do that when I get home. I'm just gonna have take it easy on it till I get my parts get in

  15. #255
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    You can also turn the punch down to which should help a bit too....peace
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  16. #256
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    Gear down. 16/50 is still extremely fast on 3s with 2650kv.

  17. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    You can also turn the punch down to which should help a bit too....peace
    I think my punch is down to like 2. I'll check to make sure.


    And 16/50 I'll do for sure

  18. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    Gear down. 16/50 is still extremely fast on 3s with 2650kv.
    I'll do that thanks I tried to respond to both you and spennie in 1 post but I don't know how to do that

  19. #259
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    I run the same esc, punch on 5 usually on 3s and 4s with castle 1415 2400kv motor.

    The best punch control is still the throttle finger.

  20. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    I run the same esc, punch on 5 usually on 3s and 4s with castle 1415 2400kv motor.

    The best punch control is still the throttle finger.
    I know that bro but sometimes we all get carried away....peace
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  21. #261
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    Lol yea well my finger punch it like 10. I need to bring it down a few notches. I was thinking about getting that set up or the sw8 with the 1515b 2200kv. It's cheaper then the mm2 1515 2200kv. But I haven't decided yet. Don't get me wrong I like the system I got now minor problems with it. I'm gonna give it to my oldest son for his slash. It took my abuse. It'll be great in his truck and his light beating.

  22. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    I run the same esc, punch on 5 usually on 3s and 4s with castle 1415 2400kv motor.

    The best punch control is still the throttle finger.
    What you geared at with that set up

  23. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by Er33 View Post
    What you geared at with that set up
    14/54 for rough terrain and 17/54 for smooth terrain.

  24. #264
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I hope the 16t pinion brings the heat down dude until you replace the fan....peace
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  25. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    I hope the 16t pinion brings the heat down dude until you replace the fan....peace
    I hope so too. Oh I made a mental note. Never drive in dark with little lighting. Bad things can and will happen. Tore off front driver a arm along with bell crank bottom of my shock just the plastic eye and camber link. I'll have to post a pic of it later. Oh well now I can get the strc bell crank. I already have other parts to fix. Guess the moon wasn't as bright out last night as it was night before. Lol

  26. #266
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Yeah made that mistake a few times man....peace
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  27. #267
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    Well I haven't been able to run my system geared lower. Since I've been waiting on my new bell crank. It came in today as well as my new motor and esc sw8 2200kv combo. Also my fan came in for my wp sc8 so I'll be putting that in my sons truck. Now this strc bell crank.
    How do I know I have the saver spring set right?
    If I hold the wheels in place with my hand and turn it via control the servo still moves left or right as if it is still turning the wheels? It makes sense that way but I want to make sure so I don't fry my servo. I never tried it with stock.



  28. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Er33 View Post
    How do I know I have the saver spring set right?
    I set mine so the spring adjuster if flush with the threads it threads onto. I started to tight and went through a couple of servo gears before I got the right setting.

    One trick I learned somewhere in here is to sand down the ramps (enough to remove the anodizing) of the servo saver and keep a very light coat of grease on the ramps. This servo saver requires more maintenance than you would think. I like to take mine all apart and keep it cleaned and greased for the best performance. Its a great upgrade and really helps with more precise steering. If left unattended the ramps get hard to slide on one another and then you'll be breaking servos...

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  29. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hirschowl View Post
    I set mine so the spring adjuster if flush with the threads it threads onto. I started to tight and went through a couple of servo gears before I got the right setting.

    One trick I learned somewhere in here is to sand down the ramps (enough to remove the anodizing) of the servo saver and keep a very light coat of grease on the ramps. This servo saver requires more maintenance than you would think. I like to take mine all apart and keep it cleaned and greased for the best performance. Its a great upgrade and really helps with more precise steering. If left unattended the ramps get hard to slide on one another and then you'll be breaking servos...

    Check out this link----> http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-for-a-contest!
    Thanks for your help. I should prob rear it down and sand some ramps down a tad and grease them. And the spring adjuster is same. Flush with threads. I just put the old one next to new and screwed it down to where they looked the same spring height. I'll have to check out link there.

  30. #270
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    That new brushless combo will be bonkers bro....peace
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  31. #271
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    So after doing test runs and gearing. I'm happy with new system. Geared 22/50 temps are now good and I can beat my sons slash with my old wp sc8 and 2650 lol. Wish I had a vid of it. I ran his truck down and then over it. He was beating me at first when I was geared 20/50 and him 19/54. Don't know how him 2s me 3s. Oh now I have to get new tires. Zombie max didn't last long. My son shredded when I let him run my truck. Well either back to trenchers or go with mashers.


    And here it is

  32. #272
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I'm glad you're new brushless monster setup is ticking all the boxes bro....peace
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  33. #273
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    MIPS here I come lol.
    I've bent two of these and I have 2 boots that are cracked just a matter of time the pins will fall out

    Had fun today back diff housing was cracked where the shock mount sits at and that's bent also. So I decided to finish it off getting major air time

    Air time lol
    Thing about it is I landed on all 4 wheels.
    Finally got my mashers mounted. 2 tires flew out of beads due to me cutting the ring off for traxxas beads. Other 2 tires I left alone and mounted and they are fine

  34. #274
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    You should have gotten the Heavy Duty MIPs

  35. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    You should have gotten the Heavy Duty MIPs
    Oh I haven't gotten them yet. Those are the xo-1 driveshafts that's bent. Which now I need to get bearings that fits a 5 mm shaft and still be able to use my xo1 carriers

  36. #276
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    Well when you do you will not be disappointed mine have been just awesome for almost four years.....peace
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  37. #277
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    Lol I hope not. Ok so I already know the set screws are a pain and fall out. What are the pn for the ones that everyone uses. Wondering if the ones that holds my 17mm hexs in place are the same. I use a 2mm hex drive to tighten them. They are bigger then the ones that holds my shafts to the diff out drives. And do I need them for both ends. Diff out drives and drive shafts or just diff out

  38. #278
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    Are you talking about the MIps? They have keyed axles, so you just need the pins for the diff out. I use the same pins as for my summit (m4/15) Check summit parts list for the part number.

    edit: parts number should be 5145
    Last edited by soundmaster; 10-19-2014 at 06:42 PM.

  39. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    Are you talking about the MIps? They have keyed axles, so you just need the pins for the diff out. I use the same pins as for my summit (m4/15) Check summit parts list for the part number.

    edit: parts number should be 5145
    How far do those stick out. The ones for the xo1 hexs are 4mmx 13. And I was talking about which after seeing pics. The inner and outer splined shafts. Where one set screw holds the pin in place I knew they had key hexs shafts. Since I won't be needing my xo1 hexs I can use those pins I would think they are long enough

  40. #280
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    So 11109 rear and 11110 front. Are the hexs aluminum or steal? Debating on going back to 17mm hexs or try 12mm if they aren't plastic hexs with the axles.

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