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  1. #1
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    Power Stroke Shocks Leaking

    Just a basher here HCG dirt only. I bought these less than a year ago and they leak at shaft. Not bad but they do leak. I have rebuilt them twice so far and am tired of topping off shock oil. I had big bores and THOUGHT I upgraded to the Pro Line. Any one have an answer? No I did not call pro line YET.

  2. #2
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    Same here, not too impressed!!, got rear ones a few weeks ago and they leak a bit. I'm working on the front ones now. Haven't used them yet so just filling with oil now. I'll find out soon enough if they start to leak. They are a ok shock though but I really don't know why they even supply the top primary spring as a soft one because the soft top spring really doesn't work it just compresses to easy and has no real good use. So I ordered the spring set too change the top spring to a medium stiffness and hope that will help. Anyway you're not alone, they leak. I thought about replacing the seals but these ones look ok and yet they leak. Can't figure it out, maybe I've been putting to much oil in but I've followed prolines vid and they still leak a bit. My gtr shocks are much better than the prolines it seems

  3. #3
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    I fill my shocks per Pro Line's video also and they still leak

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pro mod steve View Post
    I fill my shocks per Pro Line's video also and they still leak
    I run two sets with no leakage to speak of.
    I rebuild mine every so often (no real time schedule) with the pl rebuild kit, I've found if you dont get the bottom o ring fitting snugged just right there will be seepage, to tight and a bit of drag is present.
    I once ran to long with out checking the fitting and they've fallen right off, this is a pain.
    IMO the power strokes are one of the best upgrades I've done.
    I would call pl to discuses the issue as I can say with complete honesty I know of twenty or more fellas running them we out leakage of any kind besides normal shaft lubrication.
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  5. #5
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    I gave up on mine and replaced them.

    You can try new seals, and shafts, and green slim on the seals when you install them.
    This and not over tightening the seal cap should fix it.

  6. #6
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    I've found it really difficult to put in the last o-ring seal. It seems to big and just doesn't want to it in the shock. I've even put the seal in the fridge to try and shrink it a bit and was still tough to fit it in

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Badmunky View Post
    I gave up on mine and replaced them.

    You can try new seals, and shafts, and green slim on the seals when you install them.
    This and not over tightening the seal cap should fix it.
    I have found that something similar to green slime or shock snot (what i use) is completely necessary for the o-rings in shocks and diffs. I haven't had any leaks on my poserstokes or anything since I've been using shock snot.
    http://www.gmksupply.com/html/gmk_0102_.html
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  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I have found that something similar to green slime or shock snot (what i use) is completely necessary for the o-rings in shocks and diffs. I haven't had any leaks on my poserstokes or anything since I've been using shock snot.
    http://www.gmksupply.com/html/gmk_0102_.html
    Interesting, I've never had a shock issue but would like to give this a go with diff seals, I've had them leak on several occasions.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 06-22-2014 at 10:16 AM.
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  9. #9
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I have found that something similar to green slime or shock snot (what i use) is completely necessary for the o-rings in shocks and diffs. I haven't had any leaks on my poserstokes or anything since I've been using shock snot.
    http://www.gmksupply.com/html/gmk_0102_.html
    *powerstrokes

    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    Interesting, I've never had a shock issue but would like to give this a go with diff seals being I have had them leak on several occasions.
    Same here. Especially with Traxxas and HotBodies diffs but not so much any more.
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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Original set up a year and half ago, no rebuild, no leaks at all for me.
    Live life to the fullest

  11. #11
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    Its the last o-ring. Just seems to big for some reason to fit back in when its removed. When was filling the rear ones I had to disassemble them because the pistons were not tightened down properly so I had to fix that. I even put a little shock oil on the seals so the shaft wouldn't damage and be easier to slip through the seals. I've done this before with other shocks and didn't have any leaks

  12. #12
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    Running in a lot of dirty environments without defenses will slowly damage the seals, they just get scratched up, this is why a lot of shocks for outdoor RCs have silicon boots or similar over the shaft.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Its the last o-ring. Just seems to big for some reason to fit back in when its removed.
    Perhaps the wrong seal was packaged, again I would contact pro-line service, your problem is unique to any other I've seen or heard.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  14. #14
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    I'm new to the Hobby and this forum and after seeing this i had to say my 1 cent worth. Bought a Slash 4x4 new last month after a good friend built a track and wanted to upgrade my shocks 1st thing. I purchased the power stroke shocks on May 30th 2014 and the 1 front shock leaked bad the 1st time i ran them. Local shop contacted pro-line and they sent new rebuild kits for all 4 shocks. Before the kits arrived we raced 1 more time and the other front started leaking bad. i also bought shock socks from Bad Horsie to protect my investment. Shop Rebuilt them for me last week and i picked them up yesterday (Sat). Limited on time today i only ran 1 LiPo battery and i'm gonna check them out tonight or tomorrow night. I'll let u know what they look like now. Shop said they have never had an issue with Pro-Line shocks and have never had to call them for anything before but said they are very nice folks to work with and they had no problems sending the parts to make it right and said to call back and let them know if i was still having trouble.

  15. #15
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    Good to know I guess. Maybe I'll call the hobby shop and let them know. Feel like tossing the shocks in the garbage, the front ones leak bad too!. My stock plastic ones are ok so I'll put them back on for now and maybe try to rebuild the prolines but not sure its worth it.

  16. #16
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    I was none too happy myself !!! Drop 100 bucks on something that leaks like crap, I was ****ed to say the least cause they are new and was told they are (The Best U Can Buy). I wanted my money back but they said (Local Shop) they couldn't do that and they would make it right.

  17. #17
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    Wich socks did you buy? went to site and no source for power strokes.

  18. #18
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    I bought ones for Traxxas Buggies and Trucks (Fits All). Tore it down and 1 of them seems to still be leaking. U can see the oil on the shaft and the rubber stop is wet. gonna try and run it 1 evening this week and kill 2 LiPo's this time and see what it looks like.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by guy45ot View Post
    Good to know I guess. Maybe I'll call the hobby shop and let them know. Feel like tossing the shocks in the garbage, the front ones leak bad too!. My stock plastic ones are ok so I'll put them back on for now and maybe try to rebuild the prolines but not sure its worth it.
    As a rule I'm the last one to stick up for pro line but any company can have a bad run on just about any part they make, their shocks arent a lot different then many others.
    I and everyone I know love theirs, I was so impressed I bought the new pro specs as well.
    If you received four faulty shocks I'm certain they will correct the issue.
    I was so ticked off with the first pl trans I bought they sent me 5 cases and 5 diffs to make it right.
    Throwing something away do to a assembly line defect seems a bit silly to me, if I had a quarter for every bad part I've received I could purchase a new rig.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    As a rule I'm the last one to stick up for pro line but any company can have a bad run on just about any part they make, their shocks arent a lot different then many others.
    I and everyone I know love theirs, I was so impressed I bought the new pro specs as well.
    If you received four faulty shocks I'm certain they will correct the issue.
    I was so ticked off with the first pl trans I bought they sent me 5 cases and 5 diffs to make it right.
    Throwing something away do to a assembly line defect seems a bit silly to me, if I had a quarter for every bad part I've received I could purchase a new rig.
    Just venting!, not actually going to toss them but there should be better quality control especially if there's several shocks that go out for sale with some kind of defect. I'm running the prolines for now and will check them from time to time to make sure they are still working

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    I am a happy camper with my power strokes, regularly check it but since day of purchase, no leaks, no re-build
    Here is a video of the abuse I put it through and yet functions like it should, you just got unlucky I guess.

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  22. #22
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    I have been busy at work and around the farm but I did get to race last sunday evening and checked the shocks this morning and they are still leaking pretty bad after the rebuild. Took them in to the local shop so they could take a look at them and he is gonna call Pro-Line Monday to tell them he wants to replace them and to see what they have to say.

  23. #23
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    Pro-Line replaced all 4 shocks

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rusty Nuts View Post
    Pro-Line replaced all 4 shocks
    Same here. Called Pro Line yesterday (been stupid busy with work) they were super nice. Said to e-mail a picture of receipt and shocks and they would send me 4 new ones minus shock caps (wich I have anyway). Now I CAN'T find receipt.

  25. #25
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    DOH! I guess I better pull the receipt for mine that I just got out of the trash before collection day!

  26. #26
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    My LHS never even gave me a receipt for mine...smh. I've had a set front/rear for about two months, and the have been awesome. No leaks to speak of. I have rebuilt them twice though, due to dirt in the fluid.
    How can you defeat what you can't kill?!

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    I mentioned this in another thread but I believe pl had a bad run on the power strokes, so many have been sold with a perfect track record then out of the blue a run of leaking units.
    At least they acknowledged the error, they weren't so easy going when their transmissions hit the market and had the masses upset.
    After a new hr diff and idler (2/3 of the entire transmission) their great.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rusty Nuts View Post
    Pro-Line replaced all 4 shocks
    Great! How are the new ones?
    slash 4x4

  29. #29
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    Just got my Powerstrokes filled and bled last night, installed them on the truck. I only used the stock setup on them (green small springs and yellow large springs). I think I need to adjust them a little because the way I was told to check ride height the setup doesn't sit where I want it to.

    So that leads me to my next question, how do you guys check and setup your ride height. I was told to pick the truck up, set it down until the wheels just touch the ground or level service, then drop the truck the rest of the way without pushing the chassis down at all and if the a-arms are parallel to the ground you are good. when I did this the way I was told it doesn't sit level, however if I jounce the suspension a little and let the truck come to rest it does sit level front and rear. Do I or would it be more beneficial to have the rear slightly lower than the front? I am using 60w oil all around.

  30. #30
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    If you're just bashing 60wt should be fine, if you plan on track running, I've found anything more that 50wt makes the truck really bouncy over the rough stuff because the shocks can't rebound quickly enough. As for setting ride height, I do the drop test. Drop the truck from about six inches or so and check the level of the driveshafts. I set mine a little below level in the rear and level in the front. This was suggested to me by local racers at the track and has been awesome so far. I use 37.5wt oil up front and 40wt in the rear along with the optional red secondary (large) springs, stock primary (small) up front. The rear has the stock rates.
    How can you defeat what you can't kill?!

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    I never go higher then 30 weight on the track or 40-45 with GTRs.
    I run two sets of power strokes at 30 front and 35 rear, any thicker and (as stated) the truck just bounces over rather then absorb the bumps.
    I see many fellas so concerned with bottoming the rig out they go over board with the shock oil weight.
    In specialized setups like my scalpel I use 60 in the rear but for any other of my rigs this would imo be way to thick.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    I see many fellas so concerned with bottoming the rig out they go over board with the shock oil weight.
    That was my original concern, I was running 45wt f/r and its just a little too stiff. The 37.5/40 is perfect for my rig right now. It handles soooo well!
    How can you defeat what you can't kill?!

  33. #33
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    good to know! So now the question, how do I swap shock oils and clean the old oil out of the shock properly?

  34. #34
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    Exactly the same way you out it in...lol. Pull the shocks, take the caps off, dump the fluid out (I don't bother cleaning them spotless if the old fluid is pretty clean and saves on bleed time.) and refill. You don't need to do anything special to change your oils unless they're super dirty, and then it's probably time for a seal rebuild anyway. As I mentioned in my other post, either PM myself or Billy, or any of the other guys and they'd be more than happy to help you out with any other questions you may have.
    How can you defeat what you can't kill?!

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeagerbomb View Post
    Exactly the same way you out it in...lol. Pull the shocks, take the caps off, dump the fluid out (I don't bother cleaning them spotless if the old fluid is pretty clean and saves on bleed time.) and refill. You don't need to do anything special to change your oils unless they're super dirty, and then it's probably time for a seal rebuild anyway. As I mentioned in my other post, either PM myself or Billy, or any of the other guys and they'd be more than happy to help you out with any other questions you may have.
    I'm thinking I can just dump the fluid then and start over with a lighter weight oil, I just filled them last night and hasn't been driven! The oil better not be dirty! HAHA

  36. #36
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    Absolutely. Just be careful not to overfill them. I've found if they're even a little too full they get super stiff at full compression.
    How can you defeat what you can't kill?!

  37. #37
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    Good to know, I did notice they are a little stiff at full compression. I filled them as per the video link on PL website. I can probably use a little less oil!

  38. #38
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    Just take a drop or two out if you can and they should be perfect. Also, I haven't seen the video, but make sure to check the rebound without the springs. They rebound a little bit, and try to get them as close left/right as you can.
    How can you defeat what you can't kill?!

  39. #39
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    Yes, that's what the video showed also, checking without springs, and that's what I did. I checked them and they were pretty darn close to being even. I will get some lighter shock oil today and redo them all

  40. #40
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    Just got them together tonight and we are going to race Sunday so I won't know anything till then. Wanna try them out bad tomorrow but I have some clearing I need to finish and then trail riding horses in the evening with wife, soo....

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