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  1. #1
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    "Drag rustler" setup so far

    So out at the local series everyone brings there cars and runs heads up for over 100$ pot I am building a new setup to run in this and wanted some opinions and suggestions


    REM all aluminum chassis
    Venoline 3500kv motor (changing to a 1:8th scale sidewinder soon)
    Venoline esc
    OFNA road tires (rear) 1:8th scale tired
    2.2 anacondas (front)
    Extended slash rpm green a-arms for stability
    All around alloy shocks
    Venom 3s 4000 25c lipo
    25/83 stock gearing (waiting on new gears to be shipped in)
    Rpm shocktower


    That pretty much sums all of my car together as of right now.. With stock gearing I'm hitting 55.6 and when my new gears come in I should be at 65-75. This is on a concrete pavement at the end of the track for about 100-250 feet. If you have any-suggestions how I could get this rusty off the line faster it would help a lot thanks

  2. #2
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    I think I'd go with a different motor/esc combo personally. The MMP/3800 has tons of torque... and it won't weigh the rear end down nearly as much as a 1515 2200kv.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by brandon555 View Post
    I think I'd go with a different motor/esc combo personally. The MMP/3800 has tons of torque... and it won't weigh the rear end down nearly as much as a 1515 2200kv.

    the 3800 will have too much stress on 3s where the 2200 has room to go 4s and more.
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  4. #4
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    I'm looking into castles creations and talking to them/ my local hobby stores and local racers and I'm leaning toward that at about a 3800 IMO the venoline isn't fast enough for me and doesn't have the tuning options castle provides

  5. #5
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    @mandime I'm looking to go at lease 4s or a 6s setup since it's what's it's rated

  6. #6
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    I would suggest the 2200/mm2 with mod1 gearing so you can take advantage of the high torque of the 2200kv.
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  7. #7
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    I'd suggest a castle MM2 ESC, a castle 1415 2400 motor, and a good 4s lipo. A top speed of around 70-75 should be all that's needed in the distance you're running. Weigh that car down some too. Otherwise you won't be able to keep grip on the tires and keep the car planted. A little weight won't hurt your acceleration.

    I'd say get the mm2 over the MMP, because it would easily handle all the amps that the 2400 motor could possibly draw. The MMP may hit it's limits. The mm2 would just be a safer bet.

    I'd reduce the steering endpoints to keep the car pointed straight. I'd also work on the aerodynamics a little to get a bit more downforce. I'd balance the tires too.

    The mm2/2200 combo is great, but it would be overkill in this situation. Also, he'd need a new transmission. The 2400 on 4s would provide all the power you could effectively use.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    I used the MMP/2400 combo on 4S. Never had a problem with that with speed runs.
    I moved it into my 4x4 Pede with a 1512 2650Kv motor and the only troubles I had with that are with the BEC which should be just a little more powerful.
    Good thing of the MM2 is that it's waterproof.
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  9. #9
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    I've been working on it for lowering it.. The truck itself weighs a whopping 8 or 9 pounds (estimate I'll weigh it tomorrow to be exact) I'm going to create some sort or front ballast to hold on the front bumper to keep the wheels down probably a couple ounces. I run with no body on the car to decrease body drag and wind drag (from the side) to keep from high speed barrel rolls. Would anyone suggest like a 31 or 28 t pinion for maybe 60 mph in 100ft? Or a bigger battery for more power?

  10. #10
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    @peter what top speed did you get? I talked to the local hobby store they said I could easily get 75+? On 4s I'm thinking close to 80-85 on 6s since that's what the esc is rated at.. And did you have problems with heat?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by A_C_E View Post
    I've been working on it for lowering it.. The truck itself weighs a whopping 8 or 9 pounds (estimate I'll weigh it tomorrow to be exact) I'm going to create some sort or front ballast to hold on the front bumper to keep the wheels down probably a couple ounces. I run with no body on the car to decrease body drag and wind drag (from the side) to keep from high speed barrel rolls. Would anyone suggest like a 31 or 28 t pinion for maybe 60 mph in 100ft? Or a bigger battery for more power?

    I would get a proline bulldog body as they are important to protect and give down force. Also find a way to mount a wing in front to create even more down force.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by A_C_E View Post
    I've been working on it for lowering it.. The truck itself weighs a whopping 8 or 9 pounds (estimate I'll weigh it tomorrow to be exact) I'm going to create some sort or front ballast to hold on the front bumper to keep the wheels down probably a couple ounces. I run with no body on the car to decrease body drag and wind drag (from the side) to keep from high speed barrel rolls. Would anyone suggest like a 31 or 28 t pinion for maybe 60 mph in 100ft? Or a bigger battery for more power?
    If no body works for you in that distance, then that's fine.

    I wouldn't use the 48p gears that come with the rustler. You will strip them with a higher power system. Go up to at least the 32p gears from the slash 4x4. The thicker teeth on 32p or mod1 gears won't strip under high power. The two new gears are just a couple bucks each.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by A_C_E View Post
    That pretty much sums all of my car together as of right now.. With stock gearing I'm hitting 55.6 and when my new gears come in I should be at 65-75. This is on a concrete pavement at the end of the track for about 100-250 feet. If you have any-suggestions how I could get this rusty off the line faster it would help a lot thanks
    So, now that I read your original post again, perhaps you were just looking for better ways to launch your current system off the line, rather than a list of upgrades.

    Adding a bit of toe-in would help some. The 4-tec rear carriers would add 1.5 degrees. Or, the rpm gearbox adds an optional 3 degrees.

    The vehicle in a drag configuration can be weighted down on the underside of the chassis. A thin strip of steel along the center of the underside of the chassis can add some low center of gravity weight that will help keep the truck planted. It can also be placed forward or backward to adjust weight bias. You could use some shoe goo to attach it cleanly.

    If you look for different tires, get something with a bit of sidewall and softer foams. That'll let the tire dig into the ground more, allowing more power to hit the ground. A lot of street tires are firmer, and not designed for drag racing.

  14. #14
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    Mod 1 gears, low kv, but not too low. Really stiff rear springs. Possibbly wheely bar maybe even a gyro.
    This is mine so far. 2650kv T8 on 5cell geared 19/40, STRC chassis extension prealoaded heavy springs with 120 weight oil in back short stroke shock shafts up front. Lots more but those are drag focused parts.


    Modded to the Max
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  15. #15
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    I like that setup.. Very nice and clean. I just nearly finished with all of my lowering now.. Had trouble with it too low and would smoke the tires at half throttle.. Then raised it a little bit and now she hooks good with the wheels up flying after just 50ft of asphalt too bad I lost a screw to my left steering and have to go to my Local hobby store to get some more I'll put up some speeds tomorrow of how I do with my lower setup and see if it changed

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by A_C_E View Post
    So out at the local series everyone brings there cars and runs heads up for over 100$ pot I am building a new setup to run in this and wanted some opinions and suggestions


    REM all aluminum chassis
    Venoline 3500kv motor (changing to a 1:8th scale sidewinder soon)
    Venoline esc
    OFNA road tires (rear) 1:8th scale tired
    2.2 anacondas (front)
    Extended slash rpm green a-arms for stability
    All around alloy shocks
    Venom 3s 4000 25c lipo
    25/83 stock gearing (waiting on new gears to be shipped in)
    Rpm shocktower


    That pretty much sums all of my car together as of right now.. With stock gearing I'm hitting 55.6 and when my new gears come in I should be at 65-75. This is on a concrete pavement at the end of the track for about 100-250 feet. If you have any-suggestions how I could get this rusty off the line faster it would help a lot thanks
    great post this should be a thread for rustler drag racing my friends and I have been doing some drag racing with our monster trucks in a parking lot 150 feet marked off with a run off area lots off fun the key is acceleration when gearing for drag racing but its a challenge getting a setup correct but its fun keep us updated on your build

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrmerv76 View Post
    Mod 1 gears, low kv, but not too low. Really stiff rear springs. Possibbly wheely bar maybe even a gyro.
    This is mine so far. 2650kv T8 on 5cell geared 19/40, STRC chassis extension prealoaded heavy springs with 120 weight oil in back short stroke shock shafts up front. Lots more but those are drag focused parts.


    that thing looks awsome

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A_C_E View Post
    @peter what top speed did you get? I talked to the local hobby store they said I could easily get 75+? On 4s I'm thinking close to 80-85 on 6s since that's what the esc is rated at.. And did you have problems with heat?
    Mine did 90mph on 4S. As proof I can only show a data log which shows that speed measured with an Eagletree GPS. No video proof or whatsoever. The reason for that I was not trying to proof anything to anyone except myself.
    Never had heat problems, mainly because I only did a few speed runs per session.

    Edit: that was with a Bandit body. Car can be found here.
    Last edited by Petertje60; 07-30-2014 at 11:51 AM.
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  19. #19
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    Well, today I took the rusty out for some test hits and about on the 6th hit the power just stopped and the spur was an inch out of place..I just took apart the tranny and saw the pin had broken off. could've been worse I'll try to post some pics of my setup soon maybe tomorrow when I put my back up tranny back on. @peter I don't run a body in short distances.. Had too many rollovers when the wind picked up and when it got loose and I tried to fix it it'd flip like a fish out of water

  20. #20
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    we have had good luck with the 3800. It is consistent and quick. I haven't tried the 2400 but as someone posted above, that maybe a good motor as well. I have been using my brothers 3800 on my stampede and now my rusty and he has the 2200 on his rusty at the moment because he has the fastlane tranny case and i dont(i cant run the 2200 with any kinda gear options with the stock case). It is far less consistent because the back end is weighed down so much more and it makes a ton more power/ torque. It also goes through more axles with the 2200 too. lol

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  22. #22
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    I ran a tacon 4074 2150kv motor for along time with the stock gear case just dremel out the slot. I ran mod1 gears 17/40 on 4s and 5s I just switch to the hot racing I am geared 17/36

  23. #23
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    that sucks but we known with power comes broke parts but its still fun

  24. #24
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    @scriv how many feet was that 120?

  25. #25
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    this thread got me back to my rustler played around with the gearing 24/36 on 4s with a 3660 2200kv motor got up to 67mph but this not at our normal spot ran out of room but man I forgot how fun the rustler is. going back to the big block later

  26. #26
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    I'm looking in to a nice spot to test maybe at my LHS or at this abandoned parking lot. The only problem there is the dust
    Last edited by A_C_E; 07-31-2014 at 08:02 PM.

  27. #27
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    132' 1/10th 1/4 mile

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrivtwin View Post
    132' 1/10th 1/4 mile
    thanks man great info.

  29. #29
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    I have a rustler with a mamba monster2 2200 kv combo, I'm looking for help with what gears should I run to drag race with(132-140 ft.) also for top speeds say 90-100 on 5 or 6 s

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