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  1. #41
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    What tires can go on those rims ?

    2.2 tires ? so the 3.0 is for the back ?

    Someone throw me a link...where can I get tires for these blue Rims?
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-06-2014 at 09:56 AM. Reason: merge

  2. #42
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    Any 2.2 size tire will fit those 2.2 rims

  3. #43
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    I'm going 2.2 all 4 corners.

    Ok..Reading another post about using 2.2/3.0 tires.

    OK..I'm a noob..what does this mean for tires sizes .2.2 is one size and 3.0 is another ? 2.2/3.0 ? on the rims of 2.2 ?

    Ok..this post says this "You can rotate the tires, you will just have a 2mm difference in offset. I have the protrac kit and put the front hexes on the rear and use the same offset wheels all the way around so my rears are always a little wider and I can rotate the tires.

    Is this something I can do If i get those tires and glue them onto the Blue rims? and use the spacers?

    I
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-06-2014 at 09:55 AM. Reason: merge

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    sct tires and rims have a 2.2" bead on the outside, and a 3.0" bead on the inside. 2.2 stadium truck and monster truck tires use rims with 2.2" beads on both sides of the rims.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  5. #45
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    Ohhh..I get it now.Thanks !

    Well..Too late !! I went and got some
    1 x AKA Racing Cityblock Short Course Tires (Soft) (Pre-Mounted) (Slash Front) (2)
    1 x AKA Racing Impact Wide Short Course Tires (Soft) (Pre-Mounted) (Slash Rear) (2)

    At least I did and get some Tire Glue :-)

    Guess I didn't want the hassle of going through any mistakes.So pre-mounted it goes and we'll find out how well this does at the track.

    Wish me luck...won't get it until next week.

    ..when does one can upload pictures?
    Last edited by Cyclone1122; 08-25-2014 at 12:16 AM.

  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  7. #47
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    Thanks for the upload advice :-) Here's the truck with led lights and under the hood and roof...The Stock Red Stripes are semi-transparent so the red led shines nicely.


    This is the track I practice at.Very Fun..didn't break anything yet and it's a blast!Lot's of speed to carry over to the jumps or one is not doubling:-)



    The other side..Where folks stand and race and watch from the other side.You can see the Mist system kicking in every hour or 2.
    Last edited by Cyclone1122; 08-25-2014 at 06:04 PM.

  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    The misting system is awesome. So is the track... Do you have a link to the tracks website?
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  9. #49
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    Nice track, I just went to the new one , well new to me where I live now, its the biggest indoor track in Michigan, at least that's the claim.
    AMS (Addictive Motor Sports) in Grand Blac Mi, its about a 35 mile hike but well worth it IMO.
    They even have privet pit rooms you can rent if you dont want to drag all your stuff all the time.
    http://www.amsraceway.com/
    Last edited by billy-bones; 08-26-2014 at 08:08 PM.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  10. #50
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    wow that's a nice track, I wish there was a track like that here in my country, there's not even a track here lol I went to a LHS and they told me that there was one, but they closed it, I think they'll open one some time ahead, didn't say when

  11. #51
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    http://www.iercraceway.com/ This is the website for the track..not much..I think it needs Work.It's located by the 15 and the 215 in South California.

    This track is about an hour away from my place and its $10 all day practice.They have races Wednesday,friday,saturday and closed monday.

    Tires came in today so going to balance the tires...Only 3 tires needs to be balanced so one is perfect.Well..since ordering parts,I'm missing titanium hex screws (5) package and a traxxas 2 amp battery charger.I ordered 2 but got one charger.I alsogot hex screws for a Rustler instead of the titanium screws.So they told me to keep the hex screws and they will send out the titanium screws.

    Still waiting for my Lipo Charger.Gotta keep that lipo charged!

    Since I have put the Clear Sealant on the Shock Tower screws I've had none back out.Good stuff.

    Lately I've been reading up on the Brushless motors.I got a question.

    Can one just remove the Titan motor and esc and replace with a Velineon VXL-3S Waterproof Brushless System
    By Traxxas ?

    Not sure If I want to buy a Whole new truck at this time when this one is good and just replace the titan.Simple short burst of acceleration for jumps from the Brushless.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-06-2014 at 09:55 AM. Reason: merge

  12. #52
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    just get the Castle SCT combo it's freaking fast and easy to install you can get it for $100 in Amazon or any hobby site.

  13. #53
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    Thanks Enriquexx...Can I just bolt it on and switch it out? No other parts?

    I got back last night from the track and I had use the clear sealant on the shock towers and didn't have any hex back out....BUT..I had the back hinge pins screwing itself back out.Just the right rear.So my wheel was laying on the track with the truck.I thought I broke it off but It just unscrewed itself.Two of them were being unscrewed ...One was off and the other was halfway off.So..I'm going to use Clear Sealant again and I heard it could be better if One used Telflon tape but we'll see unless the sealant backs out again.Sure was a Blast@!

    I was thinking Of Using these because it would be so hard to take out the front ones with those clips that's holding the front ones together.Just nuts and bolts.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCSFD&P=7

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyclone1122 View Post
    Thanks Enriquexx...Can I just bolt it on and switch it out? No other parts?

    I got back last night from the track and I had use the clear sealant on the shock towers and didn't have any hex back out....BUT..I had the back hinge pins screwing itself back out.Just the right rear.So my wheel was laying on the track with the truck.I thought I broke it off but It just unscrewed itself.Two of them were being unscrewed ...One was off and the other was halfway off.So..I'm going to use Clear Sealant again and I heard it could be better if One used Telflon tape but we'll see unless the sealant backs out again.Sure was a Blast@!

    I was thinking Of Using these because it would be so hard to take out the front ones with those clips that's holding the front ones together.Just nuts and bolts.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCSFD&P=7
    No extra parts required, check out my thread, I explain how I installed it one question thou, are you using lipos? or still the nimh? reason is that the ESC comes with Low voltage cutoff (default) so the himh battery just don't work with that setting, it runs a few feet and then stops because of that setting, so I tried to change it using the control, but the ESC wouldn't accept the Yes/No response from the control (this was because the combo came before my lipo batteries and I wanted to try it out) so I ended up buying the Castle Link USB adapter hehehe but once I got my lipos, I didn't have to change it.

    To secure the ESC along with the double sided mounting tape I used one of the wire ties that came with it, I'll take a pic and post it later.

    I'm having the same issues that you do, but in the shock towers instead of sealant, I used lock washers and they worked very well (see my thread also, there are pics)

    But for the hinge pins in the arms, I used super glue and lock washers, so far so good, I bashed it pretty hard (jumps and speed runs) 2 batteries of 2s 5000mah lipos and no hinge pins got loose none of them
    Last edited by enriquexx; 09-03-2014 at 12:41 PM.

  15. #55
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    If your stock suspension arm pins are backing out constantly at 1 spot, thread that particular pin through in the opposite direction...

    As far as setup differences when going from Titan to VXL...

    If your slipper was correctly adjusted for the titan(slipping for the first 5 feet or so), it will be way too loose for the vxl. When adding power or changing gearing, you usually have to adjust the slipper a bit.
    Last edited by rag6; 09-03-2014 at 04:34 PM.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  16. #56
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    enriquexx thanks!

    Been reading up and its moving me closer and closer to using brushless.

    When at the track a person came up to me to check out my truck and wanted to know how hot it got because I was trying to control the car with a different setting.So it wasn't as smooth as I would like but the temps got to 130 F but later in the day the car was getting better and better.I had to take out all the shims in the shocks and started to add them back until the pin came out.So I wasn't done yet but will go back again soon.

    130 degrees not too bad.Just regular stock gearing.It probably pushed to 135 Degrees and I got a Spare in case :-)

    Got back from the track and the New tires sure help turn the truck better than the stockers.The Caster hinge pin backed out so I put it back together.Then the back hinge pin backed out..Screwed it back on.Very simple fix both times.Both times the wheel was laying flat on the track.

    I was thinking of adding a Scheme in my New body paint shell and wear the shirt and take a photo put it on glossy paper after you print it out along with liquid mask,put it on the shell and show this paint scheme and let the Slash Show body shell and the person wearing the shirt saying " I drive a Slash." T-shirt

    I got 2 pairs of this shirt from Walmart and they glow in the dark for $4.00 each and this is a good shirt to wear with the paint Scheme.Put the back bone on the roof and the hips on the hood.I know these are Halloween shirts but heck...does it say 'Slash' ?





    I was wondering since I'm still try to find a Faster and less heat brushed motor...Can this fit in the Slash and give me more speed ?

    SpeedGems Pro Cryptonite 9 Turn Brushed Motor...It's a 9 turn and running 23/86 gears.

    It might as well works :-)

    I switched out the gears to 23 from 16/ 86 and ..Yup..it's faster and the motor gets a little warmer.Took the pludge to hit the hex nut holding the gear.I noticed it does have grey type of glue so I'm outta glue but using a strip of cling wrap because I'm also outta Teflon tape.I like the Slash being Brushed as to find a fast brushed system.Going BL would be for another car.

    Should switched the gears before heading to the track but I did this change after I had a session last night.

    Wow..Slash still holds its parts together such as hinge pins because I made both front and back wheels go flop right in front of me and stopped right away and looked and brb.... fixed in 5 minutes.

    Anything hinge pins when going faster on the track...Add a nut to it.I used crazy glue but something better will come along to keep it from losing them.So far (3) Hence...The 9-turn...What do you think ??

    Just found out from another site....The ESC-xl-5 doesn't like anything lower than 15T from what I've been reading..Someone said he made the 9 turn work in the rustler with the xl-5 but and said it was fast.On the other hand,I'm going to try a 17T Reedy and a 19/86 48p

    The titan runs cool with a 16/86 and its fast with a 23/86 and a little hotter so I'm going to find a middle ground at 19T and run a Reedy 17T for fun.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-06-2014 at 09:53 AM. Reason: merge

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyclone1122 View Post
    I was wondering since I'm still try to find a Faster and less heat brushed motor...Can this fit in the Slash and give me more speed ?

    SpeedGems Pro Cryptonite 9 Turn Brushed Motor...It's a 9 turn and running 23/86 gears.
    You'll have a hard time properly gearing a 9-turn 540 motor in this truck, in my opinion.

    Just found out from another site....The ESC-xl-5 doesn't like anything lower than 15T from what I've been reading..Someone said he made the 9 turn work in the rustler with the xl-5 but and said it was fast.On the other hand,I'm going to try a 17T Reedy and a 19/86 48p
    As you've found out, the XL-5 ESC has a 15-turn 540 motor limit. Running a motor below that is not a good idea. A 17-turn would probably be a good option. A 17-turn will be a little faster than the 12T Titan (if it's a decent quality motor). I wouldn't start with the 19-tooth pinion gear, though; start smaller so that you don't run the risk of overheating the motor.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  18. #58
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    Yea I read one can use the XL-5 ESC sky's the limit on turns after 15T.I'm going to still keep the water proof for the Reedy.But Wow....I made a mistake when saying I had 86 tooth when mine came 90 stock.I switched out from 23/90 to 23/86 and used the paper method and by feel when it was at stock.No stripping.Very nice put together :-)

    And wow..it does have a punch to it that I can't wait to pick up a few more seconds at that track.Few more seconds.That's a good gear change.I did order a 19T 48P to help with durability for the motor and probably will be my everyday gear.Oh yea...going to order a Temp gun for under $15.00

    The truck is easier to work on then getting parts for it...For example...I ordered 2 battery chargers from ebay and got the paper work inside the box of just one charger saying I got 2..assuming I would get that other same box the next day or so.I didn't.So the seller sends me one and a tracking number.It got here but it wasn't here when I got here.So I told him..it's still not here and sent it certified.So I can sign for it.So I'm now in the process of getting it in a few days.Went to the post office the day before to say I didn't get the other package.The Asian Window girl tells me to go to a machine to get infomation that I already had in my hand when I looked it up on the internet.So she raises a tone to repeat to me to go to the machine.So I walked 25 feet to a sign on the machine that said "Machine has no paper and its malfunction and parts are on order." So I walked back to the Window and tell her what happen.
    She can't believe what I just told her and told me to give her my name.The pencil she wrote on must be heavy!

    She tells me ..you got the package and will tell the Supervisor to help out where my package is.He says the same thing.Go tell the seller......I wanted to say maybe the postman is taking batteries :-)

    Yea..Had to leave the Post office and didn't want to do the manager's job about the postman in reporting maybe he needs to put the mail in the box..Not outside a box.

    Like I said..working on the Slash is easier :-)

    I agree with the 19/86 is too hot for reedy based on other posts.The titan loves it.I figured when temps were at 130 with 16/90 then it could be just a little more at 23/86.It's alot quicker and faster.Wouldn't get so hot with using just half of the 3000 mah battery where I'm at instead at the track where it's untested yet.

    I would have to go back down to 16/90 Slash Stock gearing with Reedy and take it from there.I did take a peek at 14t as Traxxas has one..... 14/86 :-) Few more days until it gets here.

    Went to the LHS and got myself 1/10 Dune Buggy For Slash clear body.Going to Fool around with it and see if I can get a picture of anything and print it and apply that on the body with liquid mask. It's a SC Slash Buggy :-) with the guy wearing the same shirt.

    If it turns out good then it's back to doing a New Truck Slash Paint job since I'll probably have stuff left over from the buggy project. .040 is a thick body and will probably not get chewed up easily as the Slash Stock Body.

    I went out and Bought a 1/10 Dune Buggy for Slash to practice the liquid Mask and paint to see how things turn out.First time doing this after watching videos on Youtube.Going to put Drywall tape on the hood in a angled pattern.Wanted to put the Halloween slash T-shirt photo on the roof so I guess another time.I didn't cut the body lines and wanted my buggy to have 1.5 inch lower more body shell.Wanted to have at least some body parts on the side but the stock pictures shows that hardly anything is on the side of the buggy.
    Found out that folks have been putting fiberglass tape on cracked body parts and seems a good idea.I just finished a project that includes vanish where you put pennies on a table and pour that stuff over and it hardens.Wondering if one can just put a top coat on the Slash body and it will never crack ;-)

    But this .040 body is pretty thick,I like it.


    The Slash Buggy is coming along fine..Liquid mask is pretty cool..just cut and peel.Still haven't got the Reedy motor yet.Few more days ;-)



    The hood corner I missed a spot like with the other side with tape,so I taken the left side and scraped it clean and forgot the color was suppose to be white spray then orange finish coat.I did orange then white...Time to scrape it clean and get new orange paint...I'm out of orange! Then if it works..I go to the other side and put down that last piece of compound tape.Going to do Red with Compound tape on the back to see how it comes out and hopefully better than the hood.First time..What the heck..It's a buggy

    Don't mind the spots on the floor..I've cleaned it since then..lol


    Here's the buggy Slash half done..love to put a hood lid bracket to keep it open in the back.


    Finally got my new Reedy for my Slash 2WD and had to change gears from 23/90 to 19/90 Since I did buy a new 19T pinion..Wow!! Went through some gears settings...16/90,16/86,19/86,19/90...Even went 23/86 and wow..thing hauls but got hot so Went with 19/90 ..I did order a 15T but am thinking if one is going to drop pinion gears might as well drop the spur too.16/90 was slow as 16/86 too.15T would be for a lower Spur like 81T with the Reedy... The Titan is fast with 23/90 and does good at the track.Titan 23/86 is like Reedy's 19/90 with Reedy having a little more kick.

    It's hard to fit if one didn't have spacers and a rubber spacer that's used for shocks.The Pinion's Screw hits the back of the Spur so I add 3 washers plus a rubber spacer behind the motor and that's enough to not rub against the Spur.Reedy is Shorter than the Titan but the shaft is longer a little bit,so you have to pull the motor out a little bit,but it did Go together and I still have the Spare Titan (new) and my used one.(Still good) ...Found out I bent a Turnbuckle in the back so I hammered it straight and that's going to be my list of things to have as spares :-)

    Here's the New Reedy.....I know everyone is going Brushless,But I'm having Fun with Brushes and gears and maybe will move to Brushless later.

    I had a thought...when at the track racing,I think the Brushed Guys and Gals should be standing 3 feet higher than the Brushless motors cars guys and gals so that way it's even racing. :-)





    So a few Days ago I take the truck out there at the track and the Reedy motor didn't fire up ! What ? I took out the batteries from the Remote and put new ones in and still didn't work.I unplugged the motor and pull the old titan out..it fires up...( New one is still in it's package)...So I took the Reedy motor out and put back in the Titan.I had then broke the shaft from earlier and call the Hobby shop to see if they had any before heading to the track.Yes...But not the whole assembly..just the shafts and the pivoting balls.I would need the Yolks too but was not offered but thought while I was driving to the track about 50 miles away that's the part I need to replace and got to the track and asked where was the local hobby shop and was pointed to it's directions to pick up the Slash 2wd yolks too.Two miles down the road and they have Slash parts :-)

    At the first hobby shop I picked up Blue Losi back springs,21 tooth pinion,RPM Front A-arms and a 76T spur and another can of paint.Too bad paint cans could be taller to hold more paint.Almost there with the dune buggy body project.The 2nd hobby shop pickup was just the 2wd Yolks.

    After tweaking the system with the Titan at the track,someone came over and talked to me about lowering the system in the middle of a pinion change.Like using the outside holes on the A-arms and got it to be leveled with the change of heights and even checked my Chambers of my Back tires with his tool.( Did I let out a secret? ) Is that legal ? It gotten fast and can hang with some brush-less motors,but it's mainly because of my suspension setup for the faster straight-ways.Loves to go fast and use the suspension setups if done correctly.

    I have gotten my 4x4 Slash driveshafts in the mail yesterday and then compared to the 2WD Slash driveshafts.Saw it in a forum where a guy said it would work.It fits.It's beefier and more sturdy balanced.I used the Yolks which is bigger also and the inside of the outside driveshafts on both ends.Very nicely put together.The outside driveshaft seems ok for now on the truck.Unless I bust that,I have another Whole system from Yolk to shaft for under $20 that's coming by soon.

    I busted the front Steering block at the track at the very end of the session.So I was pleased with the Truck's performance.Ordered Some Green losi front springs.Still using 37.5wt and 40wt oil.Could be a little stiffer but will tell when the green springs come in.The Blue Springs work very nice and actually push the car back up.

    Slap on the Dune buggy body and folks will come over and asked what it is.It's a Slash Buggy :-)

    My Slash Body is really taking a beating..kinda funny seeing the body shell slapping around the track like in the real races.Going to have to slap on fiberglass mats in the inside to hold it together.

    I was using the Stock truck tires and haven't the need to using the knobby tires..Kinda wore down the trucks tires to be shaved for the track and it's perfect for a cool,damp track.I gotta a race this machine someday over there







    All done.Buggy Slash 2014

    I figured best thing to make it look nice is to put pin striping tape on the insides and peel away for each paint you spray over.Just give it a nice wash,scrub,scratch the inside and wear cotton gloves and pinstrip away.No Liquid Mask needed.Yes,I'm missing the front left wheel.Going to put headlights and taillights on next for the track.I'm the only guy with headlights out there.Now since I know what to do with the paint job.A Slash body shell is next.Pin-striping ? Yea..Fun!

    Oops..I forgot the lid for the lid for the back..Ran out of red

    Forgot to tell that the Reedy is now working.I have no idea what happen.The next day I plugged in the Reedy and it sounded fine.Since I now have the parts out of the Reedy and will show what was used to keep the pinion's hex screw from hitting the back of the spur.3 washers and the nylon washer inside the motor case with the nylon being last because to keep the steel washers sticking on the motor.This uses the stock motor mount screws.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-17-2014 at 08:27 AM. Reason: merge

  19. #59
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    turn marshals tend to flip cars with lights over 1st in a pile up 8))
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  20. #60
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    How many runs are on the Reedy motor? Also, where exactly did you put those shims? It sounds like you opened the motor up and put them inside the motor? If so, that is not a good idea. The shims/washers inside of the motor are there to center the armature inside of the magnetic field; adding washers will throw that off and could also cause binding if there are too many washers installed.

    If you installed the washers between the pinion gear on the outside of the motor, the washers really aren't necessary. To keep the grub screw from hitting the spur gear, you just need to move the pinion gear in or out on the shaft. You can also try flipping the pinion gear around.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  21. #61
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    I made a drawing for the setup.The case of the tranny.You put the screw on the case then put on washers on first with steel and last the nylon washer.Then hook up the motor.This worked when I didn't flip the Pinion gear around.This 21T doesn't have a long pinion and goes inside the gear as opposed to a few others that stick out.So in the 2nd picture..I flipped it around and glue with blue loctite.Nothing rubs and all of the teeth meshes with the spur properly.Never throw out bad parts at the track..I alllllmost threw away the Reedy but had room in the tool box :-)

    Thanks for the advice!





    About the Reedy motor..I didn't have more than 20 minutes playing with it with 3 gear changes,so it really never got hot.I did buy new Remote Batteries now so I will change the motor back out and try again at the track.So weird it didn't work there but got home and worked here.They was more than normal people so I figured maybe the remote didn't pick up the transmitter at the track.

    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    turn marshals tend to flip cars with lights over 1st in a pile up 8))
    Hehehe...Putting lights on the roof and under the Dune buggy..lol...j/k
    Last edited by cooleocool; 10-03-2014 at 09:19 AM. Reason: merge

  22. #62
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    You shouldn't have to space the motor from the case. Plus with the nylon washer there, when the motor heats up it will probably softened the nylon washer which might make the motor mounting screws lose it hold and cause the motor to shift stripping out the spur gear. I used the strc motor mount with my aftermarket motors and never had a single issue.
    Simply the best. The beautiful Traxxas SRT and TCP

  23. #63
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    Got all the pinstriping on the car to cover up some paints that didn't line up.

    Thanks Emax..I didn't think of the heat and the Nylon.For sure it would have gotten hard and brittle as time goes on and wreck the gears.

    Still have to make the run to the hobby shop for paint and looking at another Slash Body to do paint,pinstriping.I would probably use liquid mask then take it all off then pinstripe to make sure it bonds well.

    No one has the Slash body out here so got to get it on fleabay.I took the Buggy out for a test drive at the track and it didn't last but 2 hours of jumping.It blew chucks of plastic everywhere enough to kill a few ant colonies.I ordered a fiberglass repair kit and will fill the holes with fiber and re-drill.Then I'll use the plastic washer.And going to repair the Slash body also.It needs repair so I hope to have enough for 2 bodies.



    Got some losi springs and painted the front ones blue metallic,there were the green ones.Picked up some RPM arms for the front and the back.Losi springs in the back.Last track session was to try the Reedy motor again and I short it out and then it didn't work again until I brought it home.

    I ordered a OFNA 15T for $8.00 and Read how it likes 23/90 and doesn't even make more heat then the other 15T motors.Other motors would get hot but this one..so,I'll see how it goes.Everyone was charging more so I got a good deal.

    My track is changing the track for a different configuration.So it would be closed for 3 days.That would give me my LED lights that I've been waiting for in the mail.Here's the Front end.The buggy is lighter and faster and having to take out spacers in the shocks.







    When I broke my Steering Block,I thought I must have moved my Servo as I thought,jumped teeth,but got the wrong steering block on the wrong side and wouldn't turn the other way.So I took my servo off and decided to look inside and out fell 4 gears.I tried to put them back and couldn't without instructions
    So I turned to the internet and saw how the gears stacked up.The first time it didn't work but the 2nd time installing from scratch,got it working,but not before ordering that new part on the internet which I got in the mail..lol

    Got the Ofna motor installed ($8.21) and comes with it's own motor mount package. wWow,not bad,Fast,Quick,Unlike the Reedy where you have to stay around 17T to keep it happy.Has a fan hole like a titan but only one hole and bigger.Running 23/83 with it.I think it likes 24/83 or 25/96,,Has a thick could-be heat-shield sticker that's on the motor from getting too hot.
    Had a hard time installing with my pinion gears since I have about 6 of them
    and broke my stock 19T pinion because the shaft is shorter on the Ofna then the Reedy and Titan so Some pinion gears couldn't be switched around without with what I have now.Use smaller pinion screws would work.When I ran like a 16/90 it indeed ran cooler then the other 2.Can't wait to try out the new track with it and will show pictures when it's done by Wednesday or Thursday.With each different motors I have to reset the suspension each time.I Always go back to the Titan because it has that Torque that I like on the backstretch.This new track layout,can't wait!
    I should have both body shells done with added reinforcements from the cracks.You can See I used Tie-straps on the shock towers so it doesn't back out.

    25/90 I meant to say :-)

    So the place where I practice at redesigned their track and it's very rad since it has more turns.Had to take out the Ofna and go back to the titan.It's just faster and carries more torque.So after contemplating about now going Brushless,I went with the Castle 3800v and the usb link package.Shipping was free so I saved money there.I still have 2 titans,Reedy,Ofna motors.Not one blew up :-)

    Even got a new Slash Body for a paint job that I want to do.Very exciting hobby,I'll tell ya.You'll never catch me saying "oh it's for somebody else." LOL

    I got the track pictures up so feel free to see the bumps and jumps.Now they are going Counterclockwise instead of clockwise.Takes fun getting used to.





    Middle of track


    Left side


    right side.

    Oh Vrrrom Now.

    Went Brush-less with a 3800v motor..Seems fast...passing cars on the street..hehe

    Hit a couple snags hooking it up.Man.what a pain.Got it done in a hour thou.But the program itself was flawless in its setup as if it got one step correctly at a time after trying 10 times.Had to use the 3rd slot in the receiver for the ESC and reset the trim to "0" on the remote. ..Seems I have to 2 more slots for fans with the traxxas receiver.Now it drives like a truck with it's setup it has now.

    There was a balloon warning for tires and saying to have glue around and don't do it in the air at 100% throttle.Seems good enough.



    Got 2 shirts that says "Tracksick" and the back it says

    Track-Sick\'trak-'sik\adj 1:the ill feeling one gets when absent from the track too long 2:longing for the track

    I know for sure I'm going to pass up Brushed motors.

    Anyone know of a good Lipo charger ? I have another question.Can you use a Parallel charging Board for 6 packs 2~6S (XT-60) that I could run off just one lipo charger if it came with one per battery?

    Does most folks get 2 chargers to charge 2 lipos at the same time hence the charging board above?

    And could a charger read all the batteries on the parallel charging board ?
    Thanks!

    I did some reading and found some answers.The parallel board can do 2 or 3 batteries at the same time and its good to do this maybe 3-5 cycles and then balance one battery alone just to keep it in optimal shape.

    I found a charger IMAX B6 50W 5A ChargerDischarger 1-6 Cells or
    ECO6 50W 5A Balancer/Charger w/ accessories.

    Any idea which is better ?

    oh one more thing...The 25C rating for my 3800kv...Could I go to 30C without any damage? and the different between the 25C and 30C ?



    What happens when one has brushless and road beef.My poor clay tires,Yikes!
    Last edited by cooleocool; 10-03-2014 at 09:19 AM. Reason: merge

  24. #64
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    hm, weird that only your left tire is bold.
    maybe you should check both sides are free and no binding? bearings?

  25. #65
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    I know...It's from me doing donuts in the dirt/street since there was construction on my street and took advantage of the dirt and doing donuts.Probably favoring just one side.

    Should have used my stock tires :-)

    Got my charger ordered and (2) 4200 25C Gen Ace Lipo and can't wait to get back on the track

    I have set the gearing at 25/86 and the truck pulls wheelies with lipo but with NIMH batteries,the truck will not pull any wheelies unless maybe I go 26 pinion which I don't have.Even the motor runs so cool too :-)

    So the track I would maybe go 21 or 23 pinion then check temps.Now I can try to triple this jump at the track with my 4 pounds and 7 ounces slash truck :-) (minus battery but with bracket)

    So I'm looking around and seeing this website amain something selling my system for $38.00 and the 1406 4600kv for $35.00 ..I was looking at Tekin Brushless setups.For $70.00 when it's $220 on the internet.

    What gives ? So I tried to get the 4600 for $35.00 and you have to send western telegram to China.I didn't buy it.But the Viper R/C VTX10 ESC & VST10.5 Brushless Motor Combo w/EZ Link is enticing for $65.00.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 10-03-2014 at 09:20 AM. Reason: merge

  26. #66
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    New Slash Owner58034

    With that system I would go with at least 40c batteries. The 25c will work but 40c would be better. The c rating is the discharge rate for the battery. 25c x 5000mah = 125a dishcarge, where a 40c x 5000mah pack could discharge 200 amps. If you haven't checked out these guys for batteries you really should. www.spcracingbatteries.com this is the only amain I know of and they are legit, you must have found some scam http://www.amain.com

  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by dontlift19 View Post
    With that system I would go with at least 40c batteries. The 25c will work but 40c would be better. The c rating is the discharge rate for the battery. 25c x 5000mah = 125a dishcarge, where a 40c x 5000mah pack could discharge 200 amps. If you haven't checked out these guys for batteries you really should. www.spcracingbatteries.com this is the only amain I know of and they are legit, you must have found some scam http://www.amain.com
    You mean my 3800kv can handle 40C instead of 25C ? Well,not sure if Castle esc can handle it or it may burn out from what I've read unless someone can chime in..Yes I got the 1410 4 pole.

    Yes the website is a scam or those prices are just so cheap!I had ordered from China once through Western union and they came through but a different hobby,It was at http://www.amainhpi.com/110-escmotor-combos-c-16_76_77/ you sure this is a scam? I order from traxxas and amain and dollarhobby,but not this amain.

  28. #68
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    For sure! I run the exact same system in mine with a 40c 5000mah pack and it does great.

    I did a little research on amainhpi hobbies and I'm pretty sure it's a scam. I only use PayPal when I buy stuff online, and eBay is usually gonna be your best bet for the lowest prices

  29. #69
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    I Went 26/76 on the Castle 1410 4-pole 3800kv on nimh battery and it was a blast I did indeed have a 26T but no 83 tooth spur since I stripped it at the track..very fast and it didn't go hot.Didn't run out of gear like if someone ran 16/90T..it got to 120 with temp gun but that's it,almost a full charged 4200mah nimh battery.Wheelies can't be done.
    Lipo is the way to go!
    I would go back down to save the batteries but wow..what a motor.You can really gear this motor up and down and use the software ;-)

  30. #70
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    Got a New Slash Body and painting it right now and picked up Silver Glitter From Wal-Mart in the Halloween section just to see if the glitter can stick to the plastic and then a light blue spray testing on a CD holder.It works!! Can was Cheap at $2.00 plus they have colored glitter so the paint is cheaper.The Glitter removes with water but with the Blue polycarbonate paint covering it,it's not going anywhere.Very strong pressure cans.

    Maybe best time to get those cans for 50% off is to wait after Halloween when they mark all the stuff down :-) $1.00 less from $2.00

  31. #71
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    Meant to say I'm going after Halloween to pick up the other glitter for Cheap.
    If not..No lost there.Still Cheap price.

    Painting a new Slash and Not using liquid mask this time around.
    Just pin-striping and Tape.Ran out of Paint and went to the hard-ware
    store to pick up a bigger can for plastics 12oz for the same price as the tiny 100ml can.
    Saw a good proline truck paint job and this may resemble it ;-)
    Blue is next then White is last.I'm only using the glitter for the Blue color.Yea,throw some sparkles in it.

    Last edited by Cyclone1122; 10-03-2014 at 11:38 PM.

  32. #72
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    Wow...that glitter sure came out very nice in the blue paint pinstrip.I'm gonna pick up a few more cans.I see a Glitter car in the future :-) ..this Truck shell is 7 grams lighter than my Stock slash..Guess most of it fiberglass in the back of the stock one.

  33. #73
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    Now I know why One is worn down more than the other...I HAD the Wheels on wrong.
    The one worn more is the front one. The other side is the correct back wheel.

    So I switched back the wheels.Found some good front 2.2 wheels for around $10.00.Not bad.Sure Worn that one down.It's a Slick tire now.Gotta Boil that tire and Glue new ones one.

  34. #74
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    Got a new Lipo Charger...I do have an question for the charger...Is the Cutoff point for the charger set at 7.4V for lipo 7.4 volts battery? I have a 5000mah 7.4v 25C .

    Used to be that with Nihm batteries,you can charge up to 10.2 volts when it says 8.4V..But what about lipo batteries?

  35. #75
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    Well,Battery is being charged and no going over 8.40V so I'll stop it around 8.35V ..Put back on the 26T pinion and pulling Wheelies again :-) Got my truck finished and remember those blue 2.2 rims and all 4 of them? Found some tires for them to be used on the street for Fast Runs.Already got the tire glue from last month.Going to put in a order tonight after dinner.Some Pro_Line_Road_Rage_Med_Tire.Should last a long time and replace the front tires that I worn down Last week for the track.

    Picked up 2 more cans of Silver,Gold sparkles and Silver looks good with the overspray of Blue.

  36. #76
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    I was looking into higher C rated batteries.
    Is 5000mAh, 50C, 2S, 7.4V Hard-Case a good battery for the Castle 3800v SCT?

  37. #77
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    Wow..so much improvement with the Castle Motor.Runs cool all the way from 25/78 to 19/90 But I gear down from maximum to about 20/83's..Had the back tire barley coming off and a little glue got it back on.

    Meanwhile I learned that with this trick you can double the speed of your tires with kevlar and super glue cement.Stops it from Ballooning up....8,500 rpm to 16,500 rpms..!!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_pXPy2rwTY

    Any better ideas since then?

  38. #78
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    I ran 2 50c 5000mah and 1 35c 5000mah back to back on my slash with MMP 3800 combo the other day geared 19/83 and motor stayed under 140f and the ESC stayed around 100f. I like my 50c batteries much better than the 35c.

  39. #79
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    Those 50C batteries must be fun to run with.I can supply the motor with more so why not.If you can tell between 35C and 50C in speed and torque.50C would be the way to go.It would take less stress off the batteries than the 25C one.

    Right now I'm boiling one of my tire to see if it works...so far,so good but it takes time,it's no 10 minute job.Got one side off and want to try that stop the ballooning of the tire with silver duct tape and go around the tire at least 2.5 times.The Kevlar thread and glue could be messy,plus I have tape anyways.

    I saw an ad for sale on a slash body and it says " bulletproof "
    Looking closely it seems the car body was painted with rubberized undercoating on and inside and it's for sale for $65 plus $15.00 shipping.Wow! ... I saw an ad for $3.59 for a 7 oz can for rubberized undercoat and may just do that to my underside of the slash since it may stop it from cracking.I have the brand '5 minute Sun Epoxy' on the underside of the new body with some fiberglass where my old one was cracked.With that rubberized body that the person was selling,One couldn't add decals to it,it's too rubberized..lol

  40. #80
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    Those 'bulletproof' bodies you saw were coated with bed liner. I don't like the look of it on the outside, so I just picked up a spay can of bed liner and only sprayed the backside of my body. So far it's holding up really well but it is pretty heavy.

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