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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    yes that's a corvette GT from Kyosho, going to paint it metallic blue with white strip at the fender. wheels are kyosho 5 spoke and tires are belted threaded OFNA.

  2. #42
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    UPDATE:
    Well I put this project XO through the paces today and a couple things stuck out...
    1) The Temps remained LOW, so much so I was like nawww... I got my temp gun out... 95 degree and I ran the crap out of the car... maybe its the dual fan set-up plus the fact that I am overpowered for the weight of the car so the motor has no issue turning 34/50... might have to gear 34/46...
    2) The power is soo much overkill that if I tap the throttle it responds, so I truly have to feather the throttle. Could not get anywhere close to half.. for the entire time I was 1/4 throttle and was happy there... about 60 - 75... I need open smooth road... did not want to wreck on my street so I eased up.
    3)The time I spent on tuning really showed. I did not flip one single time. I have softer shock springs in the front and stiffer in the rear... the car tracked like it was on rails.
    4) Integy really sucks but I must say, their C-Hubs with my AVID flanged bearing upgrades removed slop and it shows
    5)The car is faster than stock. I mean my 1717 is crazy but this Leopard 5882/XL2 setup rocks... It worked flawlessly. I have not looked at the data log yet, but will post.

    All in all, I am very pleased with the build and am glad I built this rocket. Only thing am waiting on is my bushnel to clock it. I know for sure am gonna pass 100 mph but lets see how fast I can go... am not gonna stop till I can pull that trigger to the floor.

  3. #43
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    That's awesome thanks for the update. Once again I'm jealous. That's amazing with the temps.
    Sounds like you have lots of room for gearing up.

  4. #44
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    Some interesting reading! I can't wait to get hold of my XO-1 now and start work on it. I've gone for one of the rolling chassis kits so I can build the car to my own spec - currently 1717 motor and either the XL2, opto 200amp or hobbywing 150amp ESC. I've already started buying a few upgrades for it based on recommendations from here, it's going to be a fun project!

    My current plan is for my XO-1 to be more of a track car, so straight-line speed isn't the main part of my build, it's about how it gets around the corners too. So far i've got a killer body rc Corvette C6-R unfinished bodyshell, which I managed to find here in europe at about $60, and i've just ordered the integy c-hubs with bearings, so hopefully they'll arrive in a week or so. I'm planning on getting some new aluminum A-arms, shock caps, spring perches, ride height adjusters and diff casings, as well as picking up a few chassis spares while i'm on vacation in the US.

    I'll definitely try and share some of my build too

    Thanks for sharing your developments
    Last edited by whittaker52; 10-16-2014 at 10:58 AM.

  5. #45
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    Awesome Whittaker52... YOU are going to enjoy the build tremendously.... Just some tips, get 4 AVID 5x8x2.5mm FLANGED rubber seal bearings for the c-hubs and two 5x8x2.5mm Teflon washers... you will need only one washer each side to remove ALL the slop, your steering is going to be tight... I've put it through the paces and it is still tight, the AVID bearings work smooth like butter... if you're getting the XL2 ESC, get the mount from high gear RC. Also, I would get the spur to pinion gear adapter from them as well, this will allow you to use reg mod 1 pinions, I got the hotracing jato 34 T steel spur and it worked perfectly and I did not have to flip my shocks/arms.. Also, the servo saver aluminum drag link brace from high gear rc, stiffens up steering... post pics and lemme know if you have any questions... AM gonna post pics below of my stable... Loving the Hobby...

    HPI Vorza Flux
    OFNA DM1 with Kyosho 2.5
    OFNA X3 Sabre JL 2.8
    OFNA LX2 with Axial 2.8 rr
    Traxxas XO1 with 1717
    Traxxas XO1 with Leopard 5882
    Traxxas Jato 3.3
    Traxxas TMAXX with PICCO Red Dot
    CEN Matrix Pro with JL 3.2

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

  6. #46
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    Brilliant, thanks! I'll get those bearings ordered ASAP (I already have some of the washers from my race buggy). I assume you still use the standard screws in the front knuckle with the integy bearing c-hub? or do you use normal M3 screws? It will hopefully be nice and slick ready for the 13kg brushless servo I have lined up for it. Yes, I meant to add the high gear rc parts to my list, especially the drag-link, but the esc mount will make the install nice and tidy.

    That's a great work space you have and some great cars! I'll be sure to post up some shots as soon as I get hold of my chassis

    Thanks again,
    Oliver

  7. #47
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    Sweet... YES I still used the stock screws with the integy bearing c-hub... If you're running a powerful servo, consider a glitch buster and use castle link to increase the Mamba monster ESC to 6 v... otherwise all sounds well...

  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Yes, where did you get your wheels, and what are their dimensions.

  9. #49
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    Well i'm on vacation in Florida at the moment, and it's only about a week now before I finally get my hands on my XO-1! I can't wait! I've already had the first few batches of upgrade parts arrive, with a couple more arriving over the next few days.

    I've just been looking through a few pages and noticed people mention upgrading the steering system. There seem to a few upgrades for the slash bell crank etc, but nothing for the XO-1? After doing a bit of researching, the XO-1 uses the slash 4x4 bell crank system, albeit with the servo arm on the left hand side of the car, where as the XO-1 runs in on the right hand side, and all the upgrade options that companies offer seem to lose the cam system servo saver from both sides like the original design.

    Now this got me thinking, looking at the design and layout, would the slash 2wd/rustler/bandit upgraded steering system work? It seems much simpler, so no servo saver etc, but in terms of spacing and location, it occupies about the same kinda space. So other than maybe switching the drag link, I wonder if that might be a possible upgrade path for a more solid steering system?

  10. #50
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    Drag link is sufficient... IMHO

  11. #51
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    okay, cool

  12. #52
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    I've just collected my XO-1, and so far i'm very impressed with the engineering! I've also just collected a few parts from the local hobby store, so it's going to be a fun project.

  13. #53
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    To use the slash steering upgrades u have to do some modes to the servo holder. U have to put it on the other side at the exact opposite measurements.

  14. #54
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    I take that back. It's not just that easy. I'm actually trying to do it now. I have STRC slash 4x4 steering upgrade. Looks like I have to reposition the servo and receiver box thou. I will post when I'm done with it.

  15. #55
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    I looked at that set-up when I was building... I don't think it is worth the time and effort. Replace the drag link with the aluminum upgrade and you are golden. The XO setup is more than adequate. Focus on removing slop. Just my humble opinion.

  16. #56
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    Yeah, when I was looking through the parts, the slash 4x4 parts option seemed like a nightmare, having to re-locate the servo and receiver box. That's the main reason I was looking at the slash 2wd/rustler/bandit option (as these keep the servo and receiver box in it's original position), plus it looked a lot more chunky and solid, but there's no servo saver on the bellcranks like the standard set up. But as MD has said, i'm personally just focusing on removing the slop from the steering and suspension, and i'll look at upgrading the bellcranks if I think it really needs it.

  17. #57
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    So, i've started work on building up a few parts for my XO-1 and I wanted to share a few pics

    First of all, my little fleet of cars -
    From left to right - Tamiya M0-6 with HPI Porsche 911 RSR Shell, HPI Cup Racer, Schumacher Supastox with Protoform PFM-12 shell, HPI Formula 10 and HPI Sprint 2 with HPI Porsche 911 GT3 RSR shell.


    My HPI 5SC flux currently with wheels removed while in storage.


    The upgraded shocks - Upgraded with Hot-Racing upgrades to replace lower spring retainer, spring adjuster and shock caps.


    The upgraded diff - standard XO-1 internals with upgraded Hot-Racing alloy diff casing for extra strength. Both front and rear diffs will be upgraded.


    I'm just about to start installing the new alloy A-arms. They came with new pins, but these use e-clips instead of the threaded standard pins. Obviously with the alloy A-arms, i'm not sure how easily (if at all), they will thread using the standard pins, but also things seems a bit tight to use the e-clip pins, especially in the front? or will they included pins with e-clips be okay?

    Thanks in advance,
    Oliver
    Last edited by whittaker52; 12-13-2014 at 11:19 AM.

  18. #58
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    You will have to use the pins that they came with. I had to do some minor modifications with my dremmel. Also. you may have to drill out ever so slightly the bore of the hole in the a-arms for smooth function. Do NOT use the treaded pins at all. I actually bought the lunsford titanium pins to work in mine as well... just take your time and you will be golden. Lemme know if I can be of further help...

  19. #59
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    Okay, cool. I've spent a bit of time today working on the front a-arms and c-hubs, which required a little bit of "polishing" to get a smooth fit without being too snug. The pins supplied with the a-arms seem pretty loose, almost to the same level of the factory pins with the plastic a-arms, so i've ordered some new 1/8th inch pins - the hole diameter in the a-arms is around 3.25mm, so these should be tighter while still allowing a tiny bit of movement/rotation. I'll probably do the same with the in-board pins too, but i'll see how the 1/8th inch pins fit first.

    Thanks again for the help
    Oliver

  20. #60
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    Well the new pins have just arrived, and i've fitted the first set in the rear and the fit is absolutely perfect! I needed to ream the hinge pins out on the a-arms to 1/8 inch, but now with the pins and the set screws in the uprights, the fit leaves just enough space for the pins to move, but tight enough that there is little or no slop. As a reference, I used the STRC rear outer traxxas bandit hinge pins ST3640-RO with a couple of aluminum washers at either end and nut for perfect fit. it's a great little modification, only costing about $6 plus shipping but it gives you the extra security of having a nyloc-nut instead of a weak e-clip while keeping things super tight, so I can highly recommend it.

  21. #61
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    Sweet... don't forget to post couple pics... awesome build!!!

  22. #62
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    A few new shots. I'm almost finished with the upgrades on the chassis and suspension, and i've just got to centre the servo, fit the steering arm, install the receiver, solder the battery connectors on the esc and install the esc. It's coming together really nicely! I kinda chickened out, and stuck with the standard XO-1 1717 motor and i've gone with the mamba monster 2 ESC.

    The Integy c-hubs with new STRC outer hinge pins and set screw for perfect fit -


    The almost complete chassis -


    The rear hubs with the new STRC outer hinge pins -


    A front view of the new outer hinge pins installed -


    The front suspension complete -


    The rear suspension complete -


    The upgraded shocks using hot-racing parts now installed -


    I can't wait to get the car out for its first run! it's going to be an incredible drive!

  23. #63
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    Beautiful Build!!

  24. #64
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    Just a small update. I've now fitted the high-downforce front wing to the car - I was planning to use the front canards (very similar to the traxxas parts, just slightly cut out so the body can be easily fitted) that came with the killerbody rc corvette body, but when I was trying to tap them out so the screws fitted, they cracked, so I think i'll just stick with the original traxxas canards for now, and maybe order some replacements. The quality of the killerbody rc canards plastic is terrible though! I've also spent a bit of time designing some vinyl wheel graphics to go on the dish wheels so they look like the wheels on the corvette C6-R. I designed the graphics last night, and cut them and fitted them today. They look pretty cool, if not maybe a little too subtle? (matte black vinyl on the gloss black rim).




  25. #65
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    Hey Whittaker52... I just rebuilt my diffs with the blue HR ones you used. They look awesome and are definitely stronger. This winter blues have me looking for upgrades. I think I am all out of ideas now. BTW, you wheels and decals look awesome. Nice work.

  26. #66
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    Awesome! the HR diff cases really strengthen up the diffs, so much less potential for melting them or them twisting under load. The HR shock parts are nice too, although they don't really make a huge difference to performance, more strength than anything else, and may well add a little bit of weight to the car. I'm not sure there are really many more upgrades out there to do. Thanks! I'm still debating whether to leave just the stickers on, or use them as masks and spray the wheels so the design will last a little longer, although I think I might also get a spare set of the normal spoked wheels.

  27. #67
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    I am currently doing a similar build. I'm just waiting on the Castle XLX esc. I was just wondering what ever happened with this car. Did you ever get to do any speed runs?

  28. #68
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    Id like to know where you find those shock caps at.....I see he mentioned HR but I cant find them

    Unless these are it??
    http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...VO156A06;c=431

  29. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuGgYbAsHeR.28 View Post
    Id like to know where you find those shock caps at.....I see he mentioned HR but I cant find them

    Unless these are it??
    http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...VO156A06;c=431
    Those are it. The summit and revo gtrs uses same cap for xo1,slash gtr's

  30. #70
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    great build! I love the look of the anodized blue!
    Sl4sh, Arrma Talion, Stamp4de, Castle, MIP, RPM

  31. #71
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    What I'd like to know is if those nice and shiny blue HR diff case present any issue or problem, i.e. oil leak, after a period of use.

  32. #72
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    Yes, They're the revo gtr shock caps by HR - they fit perfectly. The quality of the parts is really good, very strong and precisely cut for a perfect fit. I've had no leaks from my diffs, but rather than rebuild the diffs that came in my car, I just built them from new parts so I could make sure seals weren't crimped or damaged. If you put a little diff oil on the o-rings as you fit them, they should hold pretty tight and you shouldn't have too many problems with leaks.

  33. #73
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    right on brother all the info i was looking for right here! huge help hope you don't mind i will be trying to duplicate this build. Thanks for all the great info! any help as to how to fit FLM arms would be huge? thanks again in advance. also how and what diff fluid you used? sorry still kinda new to a lot of this..will be checking in often for advice along the way.

  34. #74
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    Were did you buy the leopard motor from? Any idea what to expect to pay for one now of days? Will be swapping out my stock motor for leopard or was also thinking about trying the posidon motor? Posidon motor that could run 8s I believe has the same specs/size of stock only dif is its 3 Inc longer? Any one now of this would fit the xo1?
    Thanks,
    Cooper

  35. #75
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    Very nice looking! Any one know the part number for those shock caps?

  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by coopsgr8 View Post
    right on brother all the info i was looking for right here! huge help hope you don't mind i will be trying to duplicate this build. Thanks for all the great info! any help as to how to fit FLM arms would be huge? thanks again in advance. also how and what diff fluid you used? sorry still kinda new to a lot of this..will be checking in often for advice along the way.
    All you need to fit the arms is to slightly re-size the mounting holes to 1/8 inch, which you can do with a hinge pin reamer (kinda like a drill bit, but mounted like a screwdriver) and all done slowly and carefully by hand. You should be able to find a pin reamer on ebay or maybe even amazon.

    In terms of the diff oil, I just used the same oil as stock (the front diff uses traxxas 100,000W and the rear uses 10,000W)

    The Hot Racing part number for the blue alloy shock caps is RVO156A06.

  37. #77
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    You guys know the difference in the leopard 5682 and the 5882?

  38. #78
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    Is it Worth Building?

    Quote Originally Posted by coopsgr8 View Post
    You guys know the difference in the leopard 5682 and the 5882?
    Probably just a smooth can versus finned. The extra two millimeters are probably fins on the outside of the motor, to help cool it. If you plan on using an aftermarket heat sink with the motor, get the smooth can.

  39. #79
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    Looking good mang!

  40. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by XO-1 MD View Post
    [IMG][/IMG]
    so whats the black "doo-hickey" thing that sits in front of your esc?

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