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  1. #1
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    Question I am new to boating and would like to ask a couple of questions :)

    hi guys. this is my first time to use an RC Boat. I just bought the Spartan 6S Lipo version and would like to ask you some questions.

    1. I am going to use it in salt water as in Malta we do not have any lakes. any precautions?

    2. I'm still waiting for the boat to arrive and I'm already buying the upgrades. I want to do all the upgrades but for the moment I wish to use the stock motor and esc. I was going to buy: a full upgrade kit by Rc Boat bitz http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index....oducts_id=1789

    I also bought the splash guard and will definitely buy the aluminium water jacket as it seems that the rubber one is prone to leaking when used on 6s.

    3. I was thinking of sealing the hatch with an adhesive foam (need to know what size of adhesive foam can fit in the hatch seating) and using electrical tape from outside as well. is this necessary?

    I would really appreciate if you help me out keeping my Spartan safe Thanks a lot
    Last edited by loffreda; 09-06-2014 at 08:47 AM.

  2. #2
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    I'll let those who run in salt water provide their wisdom, but to summarize, it is important to thoroughly rinse all surfaces and the cooling loops with fresh water after running.

    Taping the hatch is advised, it helps seal the hatch from leaking if the boat flips, and also helps secure the hatch from ejecting in the event of a serious wipe out. In my experience, if you tape the hatch, no other additional sealing is required. I tried using foam tape, etc. and found it was not overly effective. Taping properly will virtually seal the boat completely.

    The hatch on the Spartan is difficult to seal properly with tape due to the "tabs" on the rear of the hatch. I modified my hatch by filling, then removing, the tabs to allow for easy sealing with tape.

    hog



    Last edited by hog; 09-06-2014 at 09:00 AM.

  3. #3
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    thanks hog. that would be nice if I knew how to do it properly any suggestions on what upgrade parts I should get and from where please? I've been going through OSE, RC Benchmark, Kintec and RC Boat Bitz. I already bought the splash guard and at the moment I'm trying to choose the aluminium water jacket. I'd like to know which is the best option please

  4. #4
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    Can someone guide me on what upgrades shall I buy please?

  5. #5
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    Those names mentioned are the best place to buy in, but prices differ just check out the best that could fit your budget, you might upgrade on the props from plastic to metal since the plastic flexes, once the esc is at WOT metal dont's. Dual outlet as well because your upgrading with an aluminum jacket, another set of trim tabs. More things to mention and these are just the basic upgrades.
    Sharing is the best thing to do on EARTH legally.

  6. #6
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    Thanks mate. Regarding the prop, shall i keep the same pitch with stock motor and esc?

  7. #7
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    Props recommended similar as the stock either Prather 215 or Octura X442, don't go more than those numbers, or else heating problem will occur.
    Sharing is the best thing to do on EARTH legally.

  8. #8
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    I bought this one http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index....oducts_id=1716 but along with it i also got this upgrade kit and the aluminium cooling jacket http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index....oducts_id=1789

  9. #9
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    Hi guys,

    To programme the esc, do i need an additional part or i can do it directly from the esc manually?

  10. #10
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    I'm not entirely familiar with the stock ESC (always ran aftermarket electrics).

    It is programmable using your transmitter, or, I believe I have read here on the forum that the newer version Spartan with Castle ESC can be programmed using Castle Link.

    hog

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by hog View Post
    I'm not entirely familiar with the stock ESC (always ran aftermarket electrics).

    It is programmable using your transmitter, or, I believe I have read here on the forum that the newer version Spartan with Castle ESC can be programmed using Castle Link.

    hog
    In your transmitters battery case there is a space there for the manual tree on how to set-up properly your esc & TX if you don't have that paper anymore search on your manual it should be there. I'm not sure if the castle link will work on the Spartans ESC.
    Sharing is the best thing to do on EARTH legally.

  12. #12
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    Thanks guys. By the way, I'm still waiting for the spartan to arrive. Hopefully, i will recieve it by the end of the coming week. I'm asking because if i need any type of programming device, i will buy it asap because to deliver to malta it takes more than 2 weeks.

  13. #13
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    Yes Castle Link works with the stock Castle ESC

  14. #14
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    Is it included with the package or you have to buy seperately? The boat just arrived in malta today but it is held in customs :/ i will pick it up tomorrow

  15. #15
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    Not included
    E-Maxx kershaw 700`s 4x2 slash 4x4 slash vxl

  16. #16
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    Do you have a link from where I can buy this link please? I found 2 different ones on ebay. One with usb and the other one is like a rx plug to 3 pin adapter

  17. #17

  18. #18
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    If you're going to run it in salt water I would highly advise you to buy and install the aluminum water cooling jacket. The factory one is prone to leaking and it can leak salt water onto your motor. Other then that just rinse the running hardware with fresh water and apply a nice coat of wd40 as soon as possible after running it. Also, I may be paranoid but every time I run it in salt water I take the flex shaft out, wipe it off, spray wd40 on it and inside the flex tube. Then I let the boat dry out if I missed any water, reapply marine grease and put the flex shaft back in after a few hours/over night. I've ran boats in salt water for 10+ years and never had any issues. Just play it safe and drive it carefully.

  19. #19
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    Thanks hog. ApexPredatorGT , i baught the aluminium jacket along with an upgrade kit that includes; turn fins, trim tabs, adjustable stinger, dual cooling rudder and the splash guard as well. Regarding the salt water, after I use it I was going to rinse with fresh water, dry it with compressed air and apply some silicone spray on all the metal objects because it leaves a very oily coating. I'm not sure on how to flush the cooling system (esc and motor jacket) any suggestions? By the way, i will have the spartan and all the other upgrade parts in hands by tomorrow. Everything arrived on the same day

  20. #20
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    Honestly lol, I just pull the water cooling line off the rudder, and I blow fresh water into the line with my mouth lol. Looks silly but it works and that way you'll flush out all the water from your cooling system as well. I would hold off on spraying the inside of the boat with silicone or oil unless you suspect you got salt water inside of it. If not you're just gonna get the boat dirty quick cause dirt and debris will stick onto oily surfaces.

  21. #21
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    Good luck with the spartan, it's a really fun boat!! Make sure you ease into the throttle the first few runs. The boat will seemingly handle very well up 80-90% throttle but that last 10% is like a shot of nitrous it really wakes up!

  22. #22
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    Haha that's kind of strange but as long as it works, i'll do the same with the blowing method thanks very much for your help, i really appreciate

  23. #23
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    I can't really think of an easier method of flushing out the cooling system lol... I don't think they make pumps that small to attach to the cooling lines LOL

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ApexPredatorGT View Post
    I can't really think of an easier method of flushing out the cooling system lol... I don't think they make pumps that small to attach to the cooling lines LOL
    I was installing the upgrades and i remembered in your flushing method and tried myself but i have a problem. When i disconnect the pipe from the rudder and try to blow, it is blocked. The blockage is in the ESC because when i disconnect the pipe from the ESC outlet and i blow in it, it will pass through the motor jacket easily. What is the problem? I did not test my spartan yet because of this problem

  25. #25
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    I really appreciate if someone helps me out regarding this cooling problem ASAP as I cannot use my boat. thanks in advance

  26. #26
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    Uuuum,
    Hard to say for certain without knowing how you are set up on your cooling system.

    Is the boat brand new, or has it been run before? The pick up holes in the rudder are small enough that any foreign material that may have entered, should pass easily through the rest of the system.

    I assume you have tried the simple stuff like blowing backward through the system.

    hog

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by hog View Post
    Uuuum,
    Hard to say for certain without knowing how you are set up on your cooling system.

    Is the boat brand new, or has it been run before? The pick up holes in the rudder are small enough that any foreign material that may have entered, should pass easily through the rest of the system.

    I assume you have tried the simple stuff like blowing backward through the system.

    hog
    It is Brand new from box. Yes i tried blowing backwards also

  28. #28
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    If it is brand new, and if you cant blow air through it with all other hoses disconnected, I can only suggest it is plugged from factory and would recommend contacting Traxxas customer support.

    hog

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by hog View Post
    If it is brand new, and if you cant blow air through it with all other hoses disconnected, I can only suggest it is plugged from factory and would recommend contacting Traxxas customer support.

    hog
    I just contacted amain as I bought the boat from there and I've been told to use compressed air. if problem persists, they should direct me to traxxas :/ hope it works with the compressed air

  30. #30
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    Worth a try. Go easy though, the ESC isn't going to be "pressure rated" so be careful you don't blow it apart.

    That's probably not warranty

    hog
    Last edited by hog; 09-22-2014 at 12:24 PM.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by hog View Post
    Worth a try. Go easy though, the ESC isn't going to be "pressure rated" so be careful you don't blow it apart.

    That's probably not warranty

    hog
    that did not work either. 30 psi and still blocked. the pipes were going to explode. I have to contact traxxas

  32. #32
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    I am new to boating and would like to ask a couple of questions :)

    Spray some degreaser in there and let it sit over night. We had to do that to our real boat due to an ECU cooling issue. They should of used a slightly different cooling tube design (IMO) but it seems to work for an RTR...

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasERBE View Post
    Spray some degreaser in there and let it sit over night. We had to do that to our real boat due to an ECU cooling issue. They should of used a slightly different cooling tube design (IMO) but it seems to work for an RTR...
    This boat is brand new so my guess is that the Cooling pipes insde the esc are damaged. This boat never touched any water.i just tried some break cleaner and compressed air again but noting. Traxxas told me that i need to send the esc back first. This is ridicolous.

  34. #34
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    Can someone tell me how to remove the esc please? I disconnected the plug from the reciever and the motor phases so basically i just need to take it out from the radio tray

  35. #35
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    I am new to boating and would like to ask a couple of questions :)

    Quote Originally Posted by loffreda View Post
    Can someone tell me how to remove the esc please? I disconnected the plug from the reciever and the motor phases so basically i just need to take it out from the radio tray
    If you read the manual it can tell you how. It's pretty simple. I missed the part of it being brand new and not even in the water yet... If you get a replacement I would sell it and then upgrade. The SK180V3 should fit very nice in there.

  36. #36
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    There are a couple tabs that hold into place and some double sided sticky tape.

    Release the tabs and it takes a pretty good pull to release it from the sticky tape.

    hog

  37. #37
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    So there's no need to take the whole tray out right? I need to pull the esc. I really do not wish to damage the tray or the esc itself.

  38. #38
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    You can probably get it out without removing the tray, but it will be a whole lot easier if you do.

    The tray is easy to remove and install, and it was one of my favorite features of the Spartan. Makes maintenance and repair much easier than trying to work in a cramped space.

    hog

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by hog View Post
    You can probably get it out without removing the tray, but it will be a whole lot easier if you do.

    The tray is easy to remove and install, and it was one of my favorite features of the Spartan. Makes maintenance and repair much easier than trying to work in a cramped space.

    hog
    Done hog. Thanks a lot. Very easy to take off once you take the whole tray out. Will send it back to amain tomorrow

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasERBE View Post
    If you read the manual it can tell you how. It's pretty simple. I missed the part of it being brand new and not even in the water yet... If you get a replacement I would sell it and then upgrade. The SK180V3 should fit very nice in there.
    I will replace the esc along with the motor but for now i will use the stock ones. The seaking 180amp and 1600kv leopard motor is my next upgrade but i think i'll have to replace the drive shaft to a stronger one

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