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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Let the KB Corvette Body Installation Begin (Prt 1)

    Alrighty then, let's do this. If you guys recall, this is what you can expect to receive if you order an already painted yellow/decaled/light bucketed Corvette body from Killerbody. For the rest of you, who would like the clear or the other colors, I can't say for certain that what I had to do to this body will apply to these other bodies; but I would think the chances would be good for at least some of this.

    Anyway, take a look at the below picture, and pay particular attention to the silver sticker on the lower part of the door, the position of the rear fin, the rear wheel wells, and the length of the vertical portion of the rear tail section. These are the areas we'll be working with.



    The first thing I did was verify that the indentations for where to drill the body mount holes were indeed good, and I can tell you that the indentations are correctly place. I myself, use a body reamer and a step drill bit to make these holes. I made the front holes first.

    Next, the body comes with different air-dam fins to fit around the front of the body. I myself, didn't want to be bothered having to change these in the advent I wanted to use one of my other two Traxxas bodies. However, if you don't mind you won't need to do this next part. (notice how they have notches in them)



    What I did here was to make a cut that would allow me to use factory air-dam fins. This (for me) had to be my second step, because I was slowly in the process of verifying my rear mounting holes.



    Notice here no notches. This is a picture of me using my Traxxas OEM front air-dam with the cuts made to my body to allow for it.



    Next, I found that the light sockets on the doors wouldn't allow me to set this body in the chassis side channels. The door light bucket is mounted with thin double sided tape, so I took them off, cleaned off the sticky with kerosene, and cleaned the kerosene with Windex.



    To cover this area, I used a small sponsor sticker on the outside, a small piece of black electrical tape on the inside with another small piece of white electrical tape over the black electrical tape. I did this to allow the area to be firm, and to keep it's shape. (Notice, I didn't put the white electrical tape on yet. More on that later.)



    Here's how this area turned out. (If you go with out the Light Buckets I'm sure you won't have to deal with this step)



    Next, I needed to take the rear spoiler off, and eventually relocate it. Having the rear spoiler in it original position won't allow the body to set on the XO's body mounts. When your all said and done in this area you will have your two rear body mount holes drilled, the original rear spoiler holes covered with sponsor stickers (red stickers picture) on the outside, and will have also covered the original rear spoiler holes on the inside similar to how the door holes were handled.



    Now the rear spoiler. To mount your rear spoiler look for the indentations directly behind the original spoiler holes, and drill them with a body reamer as needed. Having the light bucket kit won't allow you to mount the rear spoiler to it's new relocated position unless you notch the corners out of the rear light buckets, it's easy to do with a small pair of wire cutters with out having to take the light buckets out. However, if you don't have a small enough pair of wire cutters, you'll have to take them out to use a Dremel tool.

    (Here shows the notched out light buckets for the acceptance of the rear spoiler, the rear body mount holes (inner circles), and the old rear spoiler holes covered with black electrical tape (outer circles).



    This is a picture with the area done, and this was also done for the door holes previously discussed above.



    Okay, now to write Part 2.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Let the KB Corvette Body Installation Begin (Prt 2)

    My understanding from one of the Monitors of our website is that the site can only handle 10 pictures, so that's the reason for Part 1, and 2.

    Anyway, here we go again. Now that we're able to mount the body by putting it on the body mount posts, and by taking any excess body and making it go outside our rear wheels. And by, making it go over the back part of the chassis. We're able to see that we need to do some cutting on the rear wheel wells, and the rear tail section. (I did take a picture of what this looked like, but forgot to save it to my phone, sorry.)

    What I did next was cut out the rear wheel wells. I used white electrical tape cut in half (length wise), and stuck in on the wheel wells to see what I needed to take off. (I took a picture of that to, but forgot to save it to my phone, again sorry.) Little by little (it took me 4 times) I trimmed until I had the space I wanted. All-in-all, I took off about 5/16ths of an inch in the worst areas. As you look at the below picture, most of the cutting was from the 8:00 to the 2:00 position.



    In this picture it was from the 11:00 to 3:00 position.



    With the rear wheel wells done, all I had left was the rear end. In the box was a yellow body trim piece that is suppose to be stuck on the rear panel with double sided tape. If you want to use it, and cut where the directions tell you; you're done. I myself didn't like the look of it, so here's what I did. I used the trim piece they gave me as a guide. I covered the area with masking tape, used the trim piece to mark the masking tape, and made my first cut. I also noticed a indented line (which you can barley see what's left of it on the left side of my rear cut). When it was all said and done, I cut away most of what was that line. I cut as high as the horizontal line, and came in about 3/4ths of an inch on the left and right sides of the line.

    As I said, in the picture below, you can see a little what's left of the line on the left side of the hole I cut. Also, I noticed there is a little groove that allows the rear of the car to set on and over the chassis. In my opinion seeing this groove is why I think the rear of the body is suppose to go over the back of the chassis, and not on top as the Traxxas OEM body does.



    And here again is what the end results look like.





    Anyway in closing, if you don't want to wait 3months, you want someone in the U.S. to deal with, and you want reasonable prices; give Easton, Maryland's' HobbyTown a call, and ask for Wade or Pat.
    Last edited by ReglarDude; 09-19-2014 at 05:10 PM.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier natrix500's Avatar
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    Nice work ReglarDude

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    1), Thanks Natrix.

    2). Something I think I should update you guys on with regards to using this corvette body on you XO, and that is: if you push your XO suspension all the way down to the ground (after cutting your back wheel wells) you will notice that your wheel will ever so slightly come in contact with your wheel well. I doubt in real life running conditions you will compress your suspension that much, but to be on the safe side, I would put speed tape on the inside of your wheel wells just incase...I did.

    Anyway, for those who don't know what speed tape is: speed tape is aluminum tape with only an adhesive coating applied to one side. It doesn't have aluminum, and a plastic layer coated with an adhesive on it...that's furnace duct aluminum tape. Anyway, thought you guys would like to know about this.
    Last edited by ReglarDude; 10-15-2014 at 04:30 PM.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarDude View Post
    1)
    Something I think I should update you guys on with regards to using this corvette body on you XO, and that is: if you push your XO suspension all the way down to the ground (after cutting your back wheel wells) you will notice that your wheel will ever so slightly come in contact with your wheel well. I doubt in real life running conditions you will compress your suspension that much, but to be on the safe side, I would put speed tape on the inside of your wheel wells just incase...I did.

    Anyway, for those who don't know what speed tape is: speed tape is aluminum tape with only an adhesive coating applied to one side. It doesn't have aluminum, and a plastic layer coated with an adhesive on it...that's furnace duct aluminum tape. Anyway, thought you guys would like to know about this.
    you can use REVO 17mm adapters if you want to push the wheels back in only problem is you loose width track.


    I recommend wrapping the treaded part with Teflon tape or shrink tubing to have that tight fit

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Thank you for the info, Mr.Huma. I never notice there was a difference before...good to know.

  7. #7
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    First of all, great fitting guide! Secondly, i've just been doing a dry fit of my corvette body before I install it on my XO-1 - I have the unpainted version. I've noticed a few things with the positioning - 1) the dimples on the body seem about 5mm to 10mm too far back when positioning the car perfectly central between the wheel wells, but this also makes the front bumper a very tight fit and may need trimming slightly for a perfect fit?

    also did you have to raise the body posts so that you could fit the body correctly? as they don't seem to be tall enough. i'm even considering trimming the sides of the body so it sits down a little lower, especially in the back, only maybe 5mm, but it should lower it just enough to fit perfectly.

  8. #8
    RC Racer
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    I have a clear body on its way Whittaker, I'm curious how your final fitment goes.

  9. #9
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    Well the new aluminium killerbody wing mounts arrived, and they don't fit the corvette C6-R wing, and they're a little taller too, so I think i'm going to have to find an alternative way to mount the wing.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I didn't have to raise any of my body posts. You can use the body's front dimples for making the front post holes. If you do, everything falls into place as I described above.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    I finally pulled the trigger on one of these shells. Wanted one since they were first released.
    Got tired of trying to get an answer from HobbyTown regarding it so i went to asiatees for mine.
    Went with the finished Blue version.
    Picked up the 10LED kit and the decal pack from the GT2 car as well.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Did you try a local Hobby Town, or did you try the one in Easton Maryland?

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    That's where i attempted to get in touch with first as they came recommended as the go-to place in the states.
    Did not have any luck at all getting answers from them. And the one place listed as a Canadian retailer told me in not such nice terms that they have tried contacting Killerbodies a few times now to take them off the list as they do not nor have they ever stocked KBR product.

    Been watching eBay, but they rarely show up and when they do they are too much or the seller wants USD$50+ to ship to me.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I don't know why, but it always seems to be harder for you guys living in Canada to get parts than us U.S.ers.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Some shops don't even want to deal into Canada. It sucks.
    My body left Seattle this morning at 7:15 according to tracking.
    Was supposed to have seen it today, but it hasn't shown any further process, so I'm not sure if it will or not.

    Cant wait to get it though. I bought a Corvette Shell for my GTP2e, so a twin in the XO-1 will be sweet
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I think we need to figure out a way to get you down here in the good ol' US of A...where every day is a holiday, every meal is a feast, and where RC parts grow from the trees, free for the taking. (lol)

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    lol. im happy with Canada in every other aspect haha.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I understand completely, but if you ever change your mind...we're all here for you. Group hug everybody! (lol)

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Haha, did some digging on the DHL site and they basically shut down in Canada for Christmas Day and Boxing day. So im not gonna see my Vette till Monday.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Or how about 8:30pm on Tuesday. DHL failed on this one for sure lol.
    That's what i get for paying for Express 2 day shipping heading into Christmas i guess lol.

    Regardless, it is here, and i love this shell. Very impressed with the quality of it, but its a shame a body designed for use directly and specifically with the XO-1 requires modifications and further finishing to fit. Nothing major of course, just a touch confusing why they don't take the rear fascia out where required to clear the aero bits.

    Cant wait to get this all trimmed out and set up with the 10 LED kit.
    (There will be questions regarding the kit, the lack of actual install instructions with it will lead me to question every bit of it given my history with light kits, i'm still trying to get the light bar on my Police XO-1 shell working remotely haha)

    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  21. #21
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    That's a very nice shell! as you say, it's a shame the instructions leave a little to be desired, and the lighting kit instructions are even worse! I suspect the XO-1 fitting is a bit of an after-thought, otherwise they would have made it a lot easier to just offer it pre-drilled, cut and ready to fit, you'd almost expect that of a pre-finished body really?

    Those are lovely wheels too by the way!

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    I like the rims too, they are solid drift rings from exceed. used them on my gtp2e. Tried them on the XO1 last year but wasn't terribly impressed. Smaller diameter = lower = hitting and scraping everything other than totally flat pavement.

    The extra trimming and so on to make it work is minor, just a bit of a shock they didn't do it on the "finished" version.
    Oh well. gives me 10 extra minutes worth of "to-do" haha.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  23. #23
    RC Racer
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    RegularGuy, that looks AWESOME! needless to say, i'm jelly

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Thanks Mr. Teebs. I just got a lite kit for my body the other day. I have an idea for making the lites a clean installation & convenient for when it comes time to switch bodies. I'll show some pictures if it works out.

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Still have to tinker with the rear wheel wells for clearance, they are wicked tight. But i have everything else trimmed and seated. This looks so much better than i was expecting.

    BUT i wouldn't buy a prepainted shell from them again. There are so many areas that even after the blue and then the white was applied the paint is so thin, so thin. So bad in areas they actually used a blue sharpie or paint marker to fill the gaps. I can guarantee that i could rattle can a solid color better than they did. And i suck at painting lol.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Bahhh they sent the wrong darn light kit. LEDs dont even fit the front buckets.
    Back to the drawing board. Not going to bother trying to RMA out of Hong Kong.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  27. #27
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    I think any lighting kit that uses 5mm LEDs should work great, maybe try integy or something along those lines. I ended up modifying my lighting kit so it didn't have indicators etc anyway, just so it was simple headlights (6 up front) and brake lights (4 at the back).

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Cameron's Avatar
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    Front buckets are smaller than the rears, i'll have to measure them up. The rears fit, but no go on the fronts.
    (RAH) (AH) + [ROMA (1+MA)] + (GA) + (OOH)(LA)

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    This for you NissanGuy.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  30. #30
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    that looks cool, what is a good price for this body? I am in the USA

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Mine was 88 dollars which included 6% sales tax.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I have OBA in my XO-1, and I bought a new set of OBA speakers the other day. Soon, I hope to have a Corvette OBA XO-1 with black XO-1 rims and stock XO-1 tires.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  33. #33
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    anyone done it with KB alpha romeo 8c body?
    be great to see

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    That would be cool.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  35. #35
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    I managed to get hold of one of the KB Alfa 8C bodies for the XO-1 at the end of last year, so hopefully i'll be getting it painted and installed sometime over the summer So i'll post up a few photos when it's done, hopefully alongside my C6-R body too when I get the design finalised.

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Can't wait to see it when you're finished.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

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