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  1. #1
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    E-revo Upgrade / Maintenance thread

    So i figured i might as well share my e-revo upgrade / Maintenance.

    First off a few pictures of the truck.. Its kinda dirty and the body got the crap beat out of it today lol.


    Yes the body is high. This is do to the 0 offset despardo rims. When i get tires that have 1/2 offset i'll be lowering it.





    Upgrade list
    Lst2 diff / CVD (As per Mistercrash)
    Summit bumpers with leds
    KD center cvds
    2075 Metal gear conversion
    X0-1 hex conversion
    rpm a - arms
    Tekno Carriers with Bearings to support lst2 cvd
    Rear chassis brace.
    2 speed conversion kit



    Some more pictures of a few upgrades

    Here are the X0-1 hexes.. I drilled them out to fit and was able to remove some washers i was using as spacers for the original hexes i had been using. Looks alot nicer and now i can use Geode wheels.


    Mmm shiny metal gears.. I've never had a issue other then killing the gears. I just bash so servo speed hasn't bothered me So this mod was awesome for me. Thanks 08kgraves!



    Upcoming Maintance.
    Replace diff fluid with 500k .. I do alot of trail running and would like to slow the action up some.

    Replace all screws with Hexhead kit. Mine are kind of rusted and need some help.

    Replace transmission output shaft with stock. (modded mine to fit orginal kd center cd kit) Have new shorter front dogbone to fit.

    While transmission is apart. Install LEM aluminium no slop adapter.

    Rebuild all 4 shocks. Going for 60 wt and replace the two shocks that have the shorter threaded bodies.

    Possible replace chassis . Front right screw hole is broken off in corner. Found out today it can cause body mount to shift giving the body a twisted look. Only happens with a bad landing when jumping. Nothing to bad.

    Would like to replace the tires with something that has 1/2 offset due to rubbing on the truck bodies but give the fact these aren't super worn and they where free. I can't justify spending the cash. Might go about removing these from the rim but i'm going to need rims and foam as these have been wet a few times.

    Possible cc bec . I've noticed that the lights dim when i'm turning so i checked the bec voltage on the mm and noticed it was only set to 5.5 volts. I've changed it to 6 volts but still see some dimming in the lights. Its probably overkill to install it but i figure better to be safe then sorry.


    And here's a picture of My truck (Teal and white) and My wife's summit (Orange and teal) all ready for tailgating at the dolphins games. (Both bodies where done by my wife)
    Last edited by Wansfall; 01-18-2015 at 12:14 AM.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Great truck, by the way did you have any problems with th servo;
    Mine after a few runs, the metal gears became to heavy for the servo and it burnt out.
    Live life to the fullest

  3. #3
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    So far nope. I noticed when i first assembled the servo it there seemed to be binding. So i disassembled and reassembled and it seemed to work fine. I haven't put alot of time on it since the upgrade.. We are planning a trail run tomorrow Should be a couple hours of run time so i'll see how it fairs after that.

  4. #4
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    Update:
    Ran today for about a total of 3 hrs. Destroyed my body posts (cracked one of the fronts and the rear one. Lost the screw that holds the arm in place on the servo.. didn't hinder it at all. Found out when cleaning up and doing my after run Check.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier waqrrr's Avatar
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    Nice trucks

    I will definitely follow this thread. Keep us posted with both pictures and videos!

  6. #6
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    bro do you use locktite on your screws? soundlike not because it was lost and the gears are metal...
    ohh and btw how hard is it to fit the LST2 diff and CVD? i want to put these in mine and have bulletproof drivetrain....

  7. #7
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    Normally i do loctite but missed that one lol. Lst2 diff isn't hard just time consuming Its best to take your time grinding the cases and bulks to make sure they fit but to not take to much. As for the cvds you'll need to mod your carriers out for the larger bearings. I was lucky and was able to purchase the tekno carriers which are no longer available. i'll take some pictures when do the next teardown. There are multiple write ups with the lst2 diffs and how to mod traxxas cvds to fit the center portion. You may want to search for that For the cvds and diffs look up mistercrash erevo thread he give a ton of info on how to fit everything and Mitch316 thread will give good info on how to set up center cvds if you don't want to use Kd version.
    Last edited by Wansfall; 01-19-2015 at 11:26 AM.

  8. #8
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    i am planing on putting the MIP center CVD do you think it will fit it or i need traxxas?

  9. #9
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    With use of the lst2 diffs? No not that i can see . The design is different the the traxxas center cvds so mod that Mitch316 used won't work. If your using the standard e-revo diffs you'll be fine.

  10. #10
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    Could use a little help here.. If anyone has a pair of axial 40 series beadlock wheels could you give me the measurement from the inside of the rim to the bulkhead on the front or rear. I'm trying to see if the added offset i have will allow me to use this rim with my bigjoes as i have a stripped hex and eliminate any body rub. THanks!

  11. #11
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    Update. Got some rpm 3.2 revolver 1/2 offset rims which i place a old set of 3.2 badlands i had sitting on a stripped out pair of rulux rims.. holy crap those where a pita to remove. Anyways did some runs after taping and gluing and works pretty good. No more body rub. Also lowered the body some. Picked up 60 wt shock oil and 2 rebuild kits going to start with a pair of spare gtr shocks i have lying around and rebuild it in pairs so i can keep running it. Found out those badlands have absolutely no traction on asphalt. Did some jumping just need to figure out how to either setup go pro to take video while i'm driving or put it on the truck but protect it from rollovers ! So far other then off kilter steering its been great. Anyone have a suggestion for screw replacement procedures.. I'm not sure i want to do a entire tear down but am thinking that with the exploded views is the best way to replace the screws. Pictures to come later tonight.

  12. #12
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    Hey man I have been thinking about do this ls2 diff mod to mine sense I just got was the mod hard it self? I hear it makes the bulkhead alot weak when u trim it?

  13. #13
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    No its not a hard mod. Its more time consuming then anything. I highly suggest taking your time and going slow. Do some material removal and then test fit. Then do it some more. You'll remove less and get a tighter fit. I've had the mod over 2 years now.. I think i did it about when i first got my truck (3 years ago now ). I've broken a 2 diffs and a bulkhead. It was mostly user error. First diff i removed too much material from the case trying to take less out of the bulkhead and it cracked. the 2nd diff I didn't check when i got it but it wasn't the HD version so i actually just tore up the diff cup Gears and everything where fine. The bulkhead was user error.. I ran into a mailbox. *Disclaimer* I'm not super tough on my truck It gets run alot on trails but i do love to open it up so it does do crash alot. I've started jumping it lately and they aren't huge jumps maybe 4 to 6 feet high but its held up fine. Every now and then i do back flips just cause i love watching them and its held up like a champ. I always expect my bulkheads to be cracked or broken when i have a bad crash.. but so far they've been fine. I just got 2 3s batteries for christmas this year and have been using them alot and had some pretty bad crashes. but only managed to break the body posts. The other note and i have no proof this has helped but i did the rear chassis brace at the same time of modding the diffs and have never broken the rear bulkhead. The only things i've really had to replace on my truck is the toelinks (rusted and bent) , bearings lack cleaning after a wet run so had all 4 in the carriers cease up on me and screws. Its really more about doing maintenance and just upgrading the truck to make it even less likely to break now.

  14. #14
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    Doing a few backflips and running around in front of the house Ignore the odd angle to the camera. I had was using the gopro headstrap and apparently i tilt my head when i drive. haha
    Last edited by Wansfall; 01-31-2015 at 04:04 PM. Reason: sp

  15. #15
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    Updates

    So decided today I’d update the transmission with the new LEM no slop gear a new output shaft and install the replacement front dog bone along with some of my hex head AP screws.

    The goodies
    [/URL][/IMG]

    A comparison of my modified output shaft to the new one


    Front dogbone comparison


    Found this when trying to take apart the slipper. Couldn't get the back plate off once I finally this is what came out. Luckily I had a spare.


    New dogbones installed. They fit nice and have less play than before.


    Decided to redo the heat shrink on my motor wires. Didn't have white that would fit otherwise I would have gone for the matched look.


    And lastly a nice picture of some of the Hexhead AP screws. Ooo Shiny.


    Treated them all with some mooslick to help with corrosion

    Took the truck for a quick spin ran great.It feels less jerky with the LEM adapter installed which is odd but I like it. Now to see how well it holds up.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    What is mooslick, some kind of heavy duty grease? sounds like a great think to put anti corrison. I have applied WD40 and will put some of that stuff if I can find at a hardware store.
    Live life to the fullest

  17. #17
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    MOO-Slick NO.077:
    Fast drying silicone lubricant, protector, and release agent
    R/C safe formula outperforms and outlasts the competition
    Ultimate bearing, drivetrain, and suspension lubricant in one
    Uneffected by water or oils protects from rust and corrosion
    After run application protects pins, shafts, and bearings
    Heat stable to 400 degrees and will not freeze or melt
    Reduces regular maintenance and increases durability

    Copied from cowrcs website

  18. #18
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    So its essentially been two years since I've posted on this thread. I've done a few updates to the truck but over all its still running and works great.. Had very few breakages.

    New upgrades are
    Xpert wr-6601 servo
    Single servo conversion
    MMX controller
    Caslte 1515 sensored motor
    Traxxas rear chassis brace
    Castle bec 2.0
    Replaced pillow balls with titanium ones

    Breakages are the following
    Rear toe link (rod end stripped out)
    Rear bumper mount bracket (not sure how this happened)
    And had cvds pop out of cups a few times (Due to not getting pillow balls right)

    Maintenance items due
    Rebuild both diffs and all shocks.
    Already replaced steering bearings they where ceased and stuck to the metal shaft it rotates on.
    Replace hexes. I'm running drilled out x-01 hexes but there is slop due to not have a drill press. I have ordered some hexes that won't require me to drill them to fit so hopefully that fixes that issue.
    Single servo opening cover.

    Pictures to follow soon.

  19. #19
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    Xpert -6601 servo running on 8.4v


    You can see the castle bec 2.0 Using it to power my servo at 8.4v

    I'm using the rpm MMX mount


    CC1515 Sensored 2200 with the racetemps sticker..
    Did some checking today. Logs stated motor tempature was 159 max.. when I checked while running
    it had the motor between 149 and 160.


    The new body mocked up. Just haven't figured out the paint scheme yet.

    Had the front dogbone fail tonight.. Pin came partially out and chewed up my front bulkheads and the chassis. Both will eventually need to be replaced.

  20. #20
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    So I've ordered a New Chassis , Front Bulkhead, A-arms and A set of Rpm Carriers.
    I currently have tekno Carriers which work great but they are hitting my rpm a-arms in the front. So i'm going to see how the turning is with swapping the a-arms or the carriers. If I back off the pillow-balls to allow for better clearance of the carriers currently i end up with my Drive shafts popping out of the drive cup. Also, Does anyone have a suggestion of a good hardened drive cup to use off the transmission. My current ones are starting to show wear and the Hardened ones i have for the lst2 diffs show no wear at all.

  21. #21
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    Ok So shock and diff rebuild time



    Front diff disassembled and cleaned.


    I wanted really tight diffs as i like to trail run with this machine. So the diff oil i'm using has the viscosity of hot glue almost.. It's probably going to take a while for all the air bubbles to come out. If i'm correct its 700,000 wt


    Found out my wheel nut tool works good as a single shock stand. I'm starting with blue rate springs all around ( was having the back end be way to bouncing using double rate yellow springs.) Running 60wt oil.

  22. #22
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    So i'd been having issues with the front cvds popping out while driving. After looking into it i noticed that when I tightened up my pillow balls it would remove the issue of the cvds popping out but would severely limit my steering. So after i ordered new front a-arms (stock as i have rpm) and new front carriers rpm this time ( I have tekno) I continued to do some research and realized i had actually changed the setup on my truck to create the issue. Originally I was running two interior bearings in my axle carriers this pushed my cvds towards the diffs allowing me to back out the pillow balls giving proper clearance for steering. Then at some point when i rebuilt my truck I removed these double bearings and went with a single. This pulled the cvds away from the diffs. So after rereading mistercrashes e-revo thread I realized i was using stock lst2 drive cups. I ordered rcm stubaxles and drive cups from unlimited engineering. And here is the comparison picture.



    Now i'll have the ability to go to stock or summit shafts but definitely don't have to use double bearings.

  23. #23
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    So i did some test runs last night and had a failure of the center front dogbone. These are the results.

    As you see the pin from the cvd is embedded into the chassis.

    It bent the transmission output shaft which broke when i attempted to straighten to remove the gears.
    That's a UE drive cup with a whole 1 run on it that it split in half.
    Also my slipper pin broke and my slipper cracked when trying to tighten it after the rebuild.

    It's already reassembled and running again. I've ordered replacement parts and some other items for fine tuning.

  24. #24
    RC Racer ZUMA's Avatar
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    What CVDs are those that failed on you and are you going with the same CVDs as a replacement?

  25. #25
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    That's a kershaw design's dogbone for the lst2 diff setup . I'm not sure at the moment . It lasted 2 years before failure. I'm using my original setup which is where i shortened the transmission output shaft so i could use a slightly longer dogbone.
    There's some pictures earlier in this thread. I may just order the parts except the dogbone because i'm using different drive cups i may not need to use that shortened dogbone. I wont know till i get the new output shaft.

  26. #26
    RC Racer ZUMA's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. How'd you like the Kershaw design dogbones? I'm planing on doing the lst2 diff mod when my stock diffs go out and was thinking about going with the kershaw design dogbone center CVDs when I get the lst2 diffs in. Also, nice setup you got there, I'm still running a mostly stock E-Revo but planning out some updates to get soon.

  27. #27
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    They where good. I don't remember where the other set came from that i'm using. The lst2 diff is def the way to go. Have had absolutely no diff issues really since i switched. One cracked case which was from me grinding to much material off. i'm still trying to get it tuned how i like it.. its pretty good for the trail stuff I do but when i run it fast on rough terrain its squirrely.

  28. #28
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    Was going to add this to my post. Noticed my summit bumper leds where dimming in and out. So knowing that i have a bec for my primary servo . My esc was set to 6.0 v while all i had was the traxxas 2065 for shifting to high and low gear. I disconnected that but the leds where still dimming. So i hooked it back up and dropped the voltage to 5.5v and it cleared up the issue.

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