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  1. #1
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    Carburetor Float Adjustment

    Hey guys, long time no talk. Life has caught up with me lately.
    Anyway I have a 2003 John Deere L130 48inch deck mower.
    I bought this thing for $600 last year. It needed a carburetor cleaning and rack and pinion replacement.
    I bought a carb rebuild kit from the factory and cleaned/replaced the said seals and float.
    I aslo replaced the pressure driven fuel pump.
    Prior to the rebuild the mower could not pump fuel into the carb. It would run for a few seconds if I poured some fuel into the mouth of the carb though. When I tore the carb down I noticed that it was very clean on the inside. No signs of dirt or fuel gum.
    After rebuilding it and reinstalling the problem still existed.
    So I read something about adjusting the float? I bent the "tang" so that the float could not close the inlet jet at all and then reinstalled the carb. The mower ran, but fuel was constantly spewing from the carb's mouth. My question: Should the float be adjusted where it will close just barely close the inlet jet?
    The bowl should fill with fuel and the float will cut the flow off - allowing the engine to use the fuel in the bowl before more fuel is allowed to enter.
    I understand how a carburetor works but I don't understand how to adjust this float.

    Thanks for reading the ramblings, much appreciated.
    Matthew 7:7

  2. #2
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    Usually the rebuild kit instruction shows the dimension of the float distance to a reference point. You bend the tang to adjust the float to that distance. When the float reaches that distance, it will push down on the needle to the seat to cut the fuel flow. If the fuel pump has too much pressue, it will blow the needle off the seat and flood the engine.
    The float in a carb is like the float in the last gen toilet bowl.

  3. #3
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    What engine is on it? Looking online could it be the Kohler 23hp twin cylinder?
    The Super Derecho

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    What engine is on it? Looking online could it be the Kohler 23hp twin cylinder?
    Yes! It is that engine,
    Matthew 7:7

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by blown68ssrs View Post
    Usually the rebuild kit instruction shows the dimension of the float distance to a reference point. You bend the tang to adjust the float to that distance. When the float reaches that distance, it will push down on the needle to the seat to cut the fuel flow. If the fuel pump has too much pressue, it will blow the needle off the seat and flood the engine.
    The float in a carb is like the float in the last gen toilet bowl.
    Yes it gave some dimensions but they don't seem to be correct for some reason. It says the float should close the valve at 12mm from the base of the bowl? It's kind of confusing.
    Matthew 7:7

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier westoakmech's Avatar
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    You may just have to play with it, until you can get it right. Alot of times, those carb kits fit so many different applications, that the instructions can be pretty vague, and general. You can eye ball it most of the time, and get it pretty close. Put it together without the bowl, and move the float up and down with your finger, and you should be able to see the needle move up and down, in and out of the seat. Then just eye ball the float level as to where the bowl would be. I have had to do many that way. Good luck
    Rusty 2.5R,T-max 2.5 & 3.3,Summit VXL Nitro 4-tec

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by westoakmech View Post
    You may just have to play with it, until you can get it right. Alot of times, those carb kits fit so many different applications, that the instructions can be pretty vague, and general. You can eye ball it most of the time, and get it pretty close. Put it together without the bowl, and move the float up and down with your finger, and you should be able to see the needle move up and down, in and out of the seat. Then just eye ball the float level as to where the bowl would be. I have had to do many that way. Good luck
    Ok that's good news. I did mess with it a little more and much less fuel is coming out of the carb when it runs. So I'll just take it apart again and tighten it up a little more. Thanks for the tip.
    Matthew 7:7

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier westoakmech's Avatar
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    Just take your time, and a little goes a long way, if you know what I mean. You are welcome.
    Rusty 2.5R,T-max 2.5 & 3.3,Summit VXL Nitro 4-tec

  9. #9
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Found this online, not sure if you have it or if it will help, Section 5:
    http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinec...f/tp_25092.pdf

    http://www.kohlerengines.com/manuals/landing.htm
    The Super Derecho

  10. #10
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    @Westoakmech and DoubleG, thanks a ton for the insight. I tore it down again today and adjusted the tang correctly it seems. Was running well until the fuel filter clogged up but small issue. Gonna fix the steering, detail it, and then hopefully get it sold before grass cutting season starts.
    Matthew 7:7

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