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  1. #1
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    starting to regret this thing, but will still plug on.

    So, been working on getting my brushless emaxx running for more than 5 minutes before breaking something. Here is what I have so far. This is running the 2200kv mm with the mx6s esc

    Big bore shock upgrades
    Integy aluminum suspension minus the shock towers
    Revo heavy duty slipper
    Hr aluminum steering full linkage set up....
    All steel traxxas drive shafts, both center and drive axles.
    Rpm bulkhead braces and skid plates

    Running 4s lipo. Every time I run, I get about 5 minutes in and break something new. Not even bashing. Just driving in a straight line on the concrete. Have not even had a full run cycle on these new batteries. This is very disappointing for a 700 dollar truck that I now have 1k into total.

    I think tonight I smoked the rear diff. Front tires spin normal, but rear spin slowly and do not stop when I put on the breaks.

    First question is, are the lst2 diffs pretty much drop in with the addition of the pvc shims to make them fit the bulkhead?

    Next, the white wire that connects the motor to the esc keeps coming out very easily. Basically, anytime I hit a jump or anything else.



    Any suggestions?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Selluminis View Post
    So, been working on getting my brushless emaxx running for more than 5 minutes before breaking something. Here is what I have so far. This is running the 2200kv mm with the mx6s esc

    Big bore shock upgrades
    Integy aluminum suspension minus the shock towers
    Revo heavy duty slipper
    Hr aluminum steering full linkage set up....
    All steel traxxas drive shafts, both center and drive axles.
    Rpm bulkhead braces and skid plates

    Running 4s lipo. Every time I run, I get about 5 minutes in and break something new. Not even bashing. Just driving in a straight line on the concrete. Have not even had a full run cycle on these new batteries. This is very disappointing for a 700 dollar truck that I now have 1k into total.

    I think tonight I smoked the rear diff. Front tires spin normal, but rear spin slowly and do not stop when I put on the breaks.

    First question is, are the lst2 diffs pretty much drop in with the addition of the pvc shims to make them fit the bulkhead?

    Next, the white wire that connects the motor to the esc keeps coming out very easily. Basically, anytime I hit a jump or anything else.



    Any suggestions?
    I feel your pain. I just bought mine a couple weeks ago and already dumped a ton of money into it. Tried talking to traxxas about it and seems like they didn't care. So frustrating

  3. #3
    RC Champion PowerToTheMaxx's Avatar
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    Hmm. 1 person, meh. 2 people, becomes suspicious.

    BTW, street is 10x harder on any RC because the high traction kills the driveline and the hard impacts (curbs, cars, mailboxes, whatever) kills structural parts.

    Switch to grass and unless you have a rock garden or a lot of big trees, you will likely see much less damage.

    #1 recommendation: if you can, return the integy parts and buy RPM. You may have heard this, but 1: integy uses soft metal that is not very durable. 2. RPM offers free replacements if you somehow manage to break one of their nearly indestructible parts in the first 5 YEARS of ownership. (might be lifetime, cant remember). 3: Aluminum arms will break other things, RPM arms will adsorb impacts and protect the really annoying things (chassis, bulkheads, steering components, ext).

    If not, when you break the Integy stuff, replace with RPM seems how integy rarely warranties their parts. Only exception would be to keep the aluminum axle carriers, they are better than plastic.

    Diffs: LST diffs are a little pain to get the shimming right in the bulkheads, but lots of good threads on how to do them. And theyre much cheaper than many options. SHIM THE DIFFS INTERNALLY OR THEY WONT LAST.
    If you want to add $30 to your diff build, Ive had great luck with RPM bulkheads, theyre $15 each end and stronger than stock, but dont stress your chassis like aluminum would. I run 4s with about 1/2lb of added weight and have yet to hurt my RPM bulks. FLM and Traxxas ones are nice but that puts you $60-$150 behind as supposed to $30.

    Cant say about your wire because the picture is not working for me. Is it a motor wire or a receiver wire?

    In your next $100, aside from the diff work, I think getting a RPM truetrack for the rear, RPM a-Arms up front, and UE Knucklehead shock towers will really buff up your truck. (SUB the UE towers for RPM bumper and FLM skid plates if you dont do the RPM bulkheads).

    I know its frustrating when your new toy breaks, I got 4 bad batteries from traxxas and a bad receiver when i started out. Obvouslly theres a ton of people who love their MAXXs here and we hope that you guys will start having a ton of fun. If not, youll at least become very quick at assembly and dis-assembly.
    This parrot is NO MORE!!! This is an ex-parrot!!!

  4. #4
    RC Champion NFS's Avatar
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    Lst diffs are a good investment if you dont want to get flm hybrids, but you need to make some spacers for them to fit. I got some metal spacers made to fit them, and never had any diff issues. There are some threads about them also saw one where the op made the spacers out of the stock diffs case, it seemed to work good. If you plan to keep the stock diffs defenitley you nees to shim the diffs to make them last a bit longer, also get a castle usb adapter or field link and add some punch control to the esc it helps to reduce stress on the driveline. For the wire coming out of the esc you can open the motor connector taba a bit so they plug in tight on the esc side.

  5. #5
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    I assume you are talking about the wire from the motor that goes to the ESC that has the white shrink tube on the end. Just take a small flat-head screwdriver and pry the male connector open just a hair. That should help it seat a little tighter. Just be careful not to open it too much or it will not go back in without crimping it again. I should add - be sure you do not do this with the batteries plugged in.

    I can't comment on the diff issue you are having as I have never blow one, and I am still on my original diffs on both my E-Maxx and my Revo 3.3 that was converted to brushless, which I run on 5S.

    The only issue I have with the Maxx is that the plastic skid plates break pretty easily - especially in cold weather since the plastic gets very brittle. Broke my rear one on a bad landing last weekend. I am going to make some out of aluminum or steel. At least I can bend the aluminum back.

  6. #6
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    Also make sure slipper is not super tight. You have to set it where it grabbs but slipps a little if you hold shaft and try turning spur it will slip a little if you try hard to spin it by hand.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier waqrrr's Avatar
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    Can't really understand how people can break their cars all the time. I have both an E-revo and an E-Maxx. Both uses the orginal diffs (unshimmed) and also stock plastic driveshafts. I am running them pretty hard on 6S and so far I have not damaged anything (except for a skidplate on the Emaxx after hitting a pole in full speed). Besides from that they just keep going

    I think that if you follow some simple guidelines you can have many hours of runtime without any breakage:

    - Set your slippery clutch correct
    - Set punch control on ESC
    - No throttle when landing after a jump
    - No standing backflips or similar things that is putting exessive strain on your vehicle)
    Last edited by waqrrr; 02-24-2015 at 01:34 AM.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for all the advise everyone. I have a couple extra diffs to use before replacing. I will look into punch control and change the slipper adjustment.

  9. #9
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    ok, so loosened the slipper a little. i installed a totally different differential that i had as a spare. drove the truck around for a couple minutes and same thing happened. even kept it in grass and gravel.

    also, i took apart the other diff that was "defective" and i could not see any damage. there was a lot less grease in there than i thought there would be, but the gears looked in-tacked....

    trans is working. how do i keep blowing diffs like that?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerToTheMaxx View Post
    Hmm. 1 person, meh. 2 people, becomes suspicious.

    BTW, street is 10x harder on any RC because the high traction kills the driveline and the hard impacts (curbs, cars, mailboxes, whatever) kills structural parts.

    Switch to grass and unless you have a rock garden or a lot of big trees, you will likely see much less damage.

    #1 recommendation: if you can, return the integy parts and buy RPM. You may have heard this, but 1: integy uses soft metal that is not very durable. 2. RPM offers free replacements if you somehow manage to break one of their nearly indestructible parts in the first 5 YEARS of ownership. (might be lifetime, cant remember). 3: Aluminum arms will break other things, RPM arms will adsorb impacts and protect the really annoying things (chassis, bulkheads, steering components, ext).

    If not, when you break the Integy stuff, replace with RPM seems how integy rarely warranties their parts. Only exception would be to keep the aluminum axle carriers, they are better than plastic.

    Diffs: LST diffs are a little pain to get the shimming right in the bulkheads, but lots of good threads on how to do them. And theyre much cheaper than many options. SHIM THE DIFFS INTERNALLY OR THEY WONT LAST.
    If you want to add $30 to your diff build, Ive had great luck with RPM bulkheads, theyre $15 each end and stronger than stock, but dont stress your chassis like aluminum would. I run 4s with about 1/2lb of added weight and have yet to hurt my RPM bulks. FLM and Traxxas ones are nice but that puts you $60-$150 behind as supposed to $30.

    Cant say about your wire because the picture is not working for me. Is it a motor wire or a receiver wire?

    In your next $100, aside from the diff work, I think getting a RPM truetrack for the rear, RPM a-Arms up front, and UE Knucklehead shock towers will really buff up your truck. (SUB the UE towers for RPM bumper and FLM skid plates if you dont do the RPM bulkheads).

    I know its frustrating when your new toy breaks, I got 4 bad batteries from traxxas and a bad receiver when i started out. Obvouslly theres a ton of people who love their MAXXs here and we hope that you guys will start having a ton of fun. If not, youll at least become very quick at assembly and dis-assembly.
    Quote Originally Posted by NFS View Post
    Lst diffs are a good investment if you dont want to get flm hybrids, but you need to make some spacers for them to fit. I got some metal spacers made to fit them, and never had any diff issues. There are some threads about them also saw one where the op made the spacers out of the stock diffs case, it seemed to work good. If you plan to keep the stock diffs defenitley you nees to shim the diffs to make them last a bit longer, also get a castle usb adapter or field link and add some punch control to the esc it helps to reduce stress on the driveline. For the wire coming out of the esc you can open the motor connector taba a bit so they plug in tight on the esc side.
    Quote Originally Posted by bzlyteer View Post
    I assume you are talking about the wire from the motor that goes to the ESC that has the white shrink tube on the end. Just take a small flat-head screwdriver and pry the male connector open just a hair. That should help it seat a little tighter. Just be careful not to open it too much or it will not go back in without crimping it again. I should add - be sure you do not do this with the batteries plugged in.

    I can't comment on the diff issue you are having as I have never blow one, and I am still on my original diffs on both my E-Maxx and my Revo 3.3 that was converted to brushless, which I run on 5S.

    The only issue I have with the Maxx is that the plastic skid plates break pretty easily - especially in cold weather since the plastic gets very brittle. Broke my rear one on a bad landing last weekend. I am going to make some out of aluminum or steel. At least I can bend the aluminum back.
    Quote Originally Posted by 2010 View Post
    Also make sure slipper is not super tight. You have to set it where it grabbs but slipps a little if you hold shaft and try turning spur it will slip a little if you try hard to spin it by hand.
    Quote Originally Posted by waqrrr View Post
    Can't really understand how people can break their cars all the time. I have both an E-revo and an E-Maxx. Both uses the orginal diffs (unshimmed) and also stock plastic driveshafts. I am running them pretty hard on 6S and so far I have not damaged anything (except for a skidplate on the Emaxx after hitting a pole in full speed). Besides from that they just keep going

    I think that if you follow some simple guidelines you can have many hours of runtime without any breakage:

    - Set your slippery clutch correct
    - Set punch control on ESC
    - No throttle when landing after a jump
    - No standing backflips or similar things that is putting exessive strain on your vehicle)
    ok, so loosened the slipper a little. i installed a totally different differential that i had as a spare. drove the truck around for a couple minutes and same thing happened. even kept it in grass and gravel.

    also, i took apart the other diff that was "defective" and i could not see any damage. there was a lot less grease in there than i thought there would be, but the gears looked in-tacked....

    trans is working. how do i keep blowing diffs like that?

  11. #11
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    Perhaps you are not actually blowing out the diff. Maybe it just needs to be shimmed so there is no play in the spider gears? If you do not see any damage, I would think that or a cracked housing would be the culprit.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bzlyteer View Post
    Perhaps you are not actually blowing out the diff. Maybe it just needs to be shimmed so there is no play in the spider gears? If you do not see any damage, I would think that or a cracked housing would be the culprit.
    ok, will look into shimming the diffs.... what a pain.

  13. #13
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    not really seeing any good tuts on shimming diffs. anyone know of any? i found a good one on here, but all the pics are gone....

  14. #14
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    what did i break

  15. #15
    RC Champion PowerToTheMaxx's Avatar
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    Ya, when people say "Blown diff" we assume that the diff is torn apart (or at least I do) "damaged diff" is usually when you hear clicking or popping on throttle, but that is not always the diff. Slash can make that sound and its just the spokes hitting the axle carriers when the camber isnt set right.

    If you can post up a video of the issue, id recommend it. Wheel hubs stripping can also sound like that, so check your hubs all around. just kinda spitballing here but it is unusual to break diffs on 4s, most people dont even on 6s...
    This parrot is NO MORE!!! This is an ex-parrot!!!

  16. #16
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    nice. thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by PowerToTheMaxx View Post
    Ya, when people say "Blown diff" we assume that the diff is torn apart (or at least I do) "damaged diff" is usually when you hear clicking or popping on throttle, but that is not always the diff. Slash can make that sound and its just the spokes hitting the axle carriers when the camber isnt set right.

    If you can post up a video of the issue, id recommend it. Wheel hubs stripping can also sound like that, so check your hubs all around. just kinda spitballing here but it is unusual to break diffs on 4s, most people dont even on 6s...
    there isnt really a sound. wheel hubs def not stripped. will try to get a video up.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Mr. Selluminis, don't get discouraged. When I get a new RC goodie, 95% of the time I have to massage it to get it to work, and have the reliability that I want. I've had to do it with my Traxxas stuff, and I've had to do it with other company's RC stuff too. From what I've experienced over the years...I think that's just the way it is.

    Anyway, just keep hitting these guys up with questions...they'll hook you up. And remember, no question is a dumb question. And also, don't forget that, it's always better to ask then it is to learn the hard (expensive) way. Good luck.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    Shimming the diff is stupid easy and the shims are easily had.
    You need 6,8,10mm shims.

    Below is a vid of it, it on a Revo diff but it's the exact same for the maxx.

    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    Shimming the diff is stupid easy and the shims are easily had.
    You need 6,8,10mm shims.

    Below is a vid of it, it on a Revo diff but it's the exact same for the maxx.

    Thanks for this video. These diffs look nothing like mine, but the principal is the same. Shim the bevel and the pinion. I assume I can get shims at lowe's or something like that. Did a couple quick searches online and nothing was popping up at me.

  20. #20
    RC Champion NFS's Avatar
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    Diffs are the same just diff case. I doubt you will find rc grade shimms for it at lowes. Google 6mm,8mm,10mm shimms any brand will work like calandra, 3 racing..try ebay or any hobby shop.

    Look at this thread
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...-Diff-Shimming
    Last edited by NFS; 02-25-2015 at 03:15 PM.

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by NFS View Post
    Diffs are the same just diff case. I doubt you will find rc grade shimms for it at lowes. Google 6mm,8mm,10mm shimms any brand will work like calandra, 3 racing..try ebay or any hobby shop.

    Look at this thread
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...-Diff-Shimming
    Thank you so much for these links. I was googling like crazy and was coming up short. Had not even started going to hobby online stores yet. You have no idea how much this helps a guy like me. Again. Thank you.

  23. #23
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    Ok, got shims, grease, and o rings ordered. Now to hurry up and wait. Guess I, can tear everything down.

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Yes, those were good links for shims, and that video.

  25. #25
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    Selluminis, is there any chance that the pin holding the drive cup on the output shaft of the transmission has backed out?

    What you are describing sounds to me like something is preventing the power from actually being transferred to the rear end. I have had this very thing happen on 3 different E-Maxxes over the years with MIP CVD's, UE titanium centers, and FLM centers. When it happens, the vehicle behaves as if the diff input gear has stripped out and is not meshing with the ring gear.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by LawTiger View Post
    Selluminis, is there any chance that the pin holding the drive cup on the output shaft of the transmission has backed out?

    What you are describing sounds to me like something is preventing the power from actually being transferred to the rear end. I have had this very thing happen on 3 different E-Maxxes over the years with MIP CVD's, UE titanium centers, and FLM centers. When it happens, the vehicle behaves as if the diff input gear has stripped out and is not meshing with the ring gear.
    You know, I have not actually checked this, but wouldn't it fall off? Running the Traxxas steel drive shafts. I am positive that I checked the the rear shaft was turning. I will look tonight for sure though.

  27. #27
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    I once had a rear drive shaft strip the splines out so that just looking at the shaft, it appeared to be fine but the splines inside would skip and not transmit power. I don't recall if you installed steel center CVDs - if not you might want to pull both drive shafts that send the power to the front and rear diffs and ensure they are not damaged. this will definitely cause power loss to either end and make some ugly noises. The shafts are plastic and not very durable. brushless power makes pretty short work of them.
    I have an RC problem...

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Selluminis View Post
    You know, I have not actually checked this, but wouldn't it fall off? Running the Traxxas steel drive shafts. I am positive that I checked the the rear shaft was turning. I will look tonight for sure though.
    Two of the three times this happened to me, it in fact did not drop the drive shaft. When the pin backed out on the transmission side ofthe shaft, for some reason the driveshaft would stay put. The one time that the pin backed out from the diff side it did drop the shaft. (on a golf course at about 35mph...made for an hour trying to locate the pieces)

  29. #29
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    The problem I'm having is I hear a clicking noise under throttle. But I can't get it to repeat by me spinning the wheels with my hands?!?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by LawTiger View Post
    Selluminis, is there any chance that the pin holding the drive cup on the output shaft of the transmission has backed out?

    What you are describing sounds to me like something is preventing the power from actually being transferred to the rear end. I have had this very thing happen on 3 different E-Maxxes over the years with MIP CVD's, UE titanium centers, and FLM centers. When it happens, the vehicle behaves as if the diff input gear has stripped out and is not meshing with the ring gear.
    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    I once had a rear drive shaft strip the splines out so that just looking at the shaft, it appeared to be fine but the splines inside would skip and not transmit power. I don't recall if you installed steel center CVDs - if not you might want to pull both drive shafts that send the power to the front and rear diffs and ensure they are not damaged. this will definitely cause power loss to either end and make some ugly noises. The shafts are plastic and not very durable. brushless power makes pretty short work of them.
    Quote Originally Posted by LawTiger View Post
    Two of the three times this happened to me, it in fact did not drop the drive shaft. When the pin backed out on the transmission side ofthe shaft, for some reason the driveshaft would stay put. The one time that the pin backed out from the diff side it did drop the shaft. (on a golf course at about 35mph...made for an hour trying to locate the pieces)
    Team,
    Here is a video i took this am. All of the grub screws are def in place on the drive line. As for splines stripping out, I am using the traxxas steel center and axels that do not have splines. Tonight, I can put in the lipos and show a video of it running as well if that will be more helpful.


  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Okay then, you might want to try this. Take one of your drive shafts', drive cup, set pins out. Which drive shaft you want to start with (front or back) is up to you. With the pin out of your selected drive cup (of course) that diff won't work. What you're doing here (of course) is isolating a section of your truck. In all, you may need to isolate both the front and back before you have an idea of where your problem is. Each time you isolate a section of your truck, take your truck out and run it. The reason why I'm suggesting this technique to you is because, your saying that you can only hear your problem when your truck is actually running.

    Noise only heard with back isolated = problem in front drive area.

    Noise only heard with front isolated = problem in back drive area.

    Noise heard no matter which is isolated, front or back = problem in transmission, or maybe in both front and back drive areas.

    What your trying to do with your trouble shooting is to isolate a bad section to save yourself a bunch of time and work. But eventually, if you can't get an idea of where your problem is, don't be afraid to start taking things apart, starting from one end and going towards the other end until you find your problem. A couple of times, in the beginning with my Emax, when all my time saving T/S efforts failed; I had to do that. So, don't be afraid of doing it if need be, cause you will learn a lot...I did.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 02-27-2015 at 07:42 AM.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Okay then, you might want to try this. Take one of your drive shafts', drive cup, set pins out. Which drive shaft you want to start with (front or back) is up to you. With the pin out of your selected drive cup (of course) that diff won't work. What you're doing here (of course) is isolating a section of your truck. In all, you may need to isolate both the front and back before you have an idea of where your problem is. Each time you isolate a section of your truck, take your truck out and run it. The reason why I'm suggesting this technique to you is because, your saying that you can only hear your problem when your truck is actually running.

    Noise only heard with back isolated = problem in front drive area.

    Noise only heard with front isolated = problem in back drive area.

    Noise heard no matter which is isolated, front or back = problem in transmission, or maybe in both front and back drive areas.

    What your trying to do with your trouble shooting is to isolate a bad section to save yourself a bunch of time and work. But eventually, if you can't get an idea of where your problem is, don't be afraid to start taking things apart, starting from one end and going towards the other end until you find your problem. A couple of times, in the beginning with my Emax, when all my time saving T/S efforts failed; I had to do that. So, don't be afraid of doing it if need be, cause you will learn a lot...I did.
    This is great trouble shooting advise. However, I know the issue is with the rear. The front has no issues driving the truck. The rear is definitely the problem. There are no sound issues, except that the rear does not make the "meshing" sound when it is messed up like this.

    I think this next piece of info was lost in all the posts above, but I actually replaced the rear diff with a totally different one and the problem went away and everything worked fine. However, after driving it for 5 minutes, the rear end stopped turning correctly just like the first time. I think for you guys to see what I am talking about, I will actually power this up and show you what I am having as far as issues. Another piece of info is this, when I am on the throttle and hit the brake, the front wheels stop and rear just keep rolling. I have noticed that the rear drive shaft stops like it should, but the rear wheels just keep spinning. This is another thing that leads me to think the issue with the rear diff. The theory that the diffs need shimmed makes a little sense, but they have never done this before......

  33. #33
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    If you are using a brand new diff on the rear, and the wheels keep spinning upon braking, it sounds like there may be an issue with the rear driveshaft.

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Thanks, for appreciating my effort to help. Anyway, when I have what you describe, it's always been that my pin fell out from where my rear drive shaft meets my diff. I would suggest checking that, but I'm sure you did. With that said, I would have to lean towards that your rear diffs' ring and pinion gear aren't meshing right...could be something like a bad bearing in there causing a misalignment, or a deformed housing causing the same thing. Bring it on down to Ocean City, Maryland, and we'll take a look at it together...I would, too. (lol)

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    I once had a rear drive shaft strip the splines out so that just looking at the shaft, it appeared to be fine but the splines inside would skip and not transmit power. I don't recall if you installed steel center CVDs - if not you might want to pull both drive shafts that send the power to the front and rear diffs and ensure they are not damaged. this will definitely cause power loss to either end and make some ugly noises. The shafts are plastic and not very durable. brushless power makes pretty short work of them.
    Quote Originally Posted by LawTiger View Post
    Two of the three times this happened to me, it in fact did not drop the drive shaft. When the pin backed out on the transmission side ofthe shaft, for some reason the driveshaft would stay put. The one time that the pin backed out from the diff side it did drop the shaft. (on a golf course at about 35mph...made for an hour trying to locate the pieces)
    Quote Originally Posted by bzlyteer View Post
    If you are using a brand new diff on the rear, and the wheels keep spinning upon braking, it sounds like there may be an issue with the rear driveshaft.
    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Thanks, for appreciating my effort to help. Anyway, when I have what you describe, it's always been that my pin fell out from where my rear drive shaft meets my diff. I would suggest checking that, but I'm sure you did. With that said, I would have to lean towards that your rear diffs' ring and pinion gear aren't meshing right...could be something like a bad bearing in there causing a misalignment, or a deformed housing causing the same thing. Bring it on down to Ocean City, Maryland, and we'll take a look at it together...I would, too. (lol)
    All,
    Here is a video to better demonstrate my claims. Hope this helps. Don't mind my voice. For some reason, when ever my voice is recorded I always seem to sound condescending and sarcastic. I am neither of those things.

    I suggest watching in full screen so you can really see the grub screws and what not.



    Again, I really appreciate all of the help and info you provide me in my quest to run my emaxx "Money PITT" for more than 5 minutes with out breaking something.

    Also, I ordered 50k oil for the front and 30k for the back. Thoughts? Should i get 500k or 100k?
    Last edited by Selluminis; 02-28-2015 at 10:22 AM.

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier ausprime's Avatar
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    The video is private. So i cant see it.
    My RC Cycle:
    Build it, Drive it, Brake it.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by ausprime View Post
    The video is private. So i cant see it.
    Ok, I have gone in and made it public.

  38. #38
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    Something inside the diff is broken. More than likely it's inside the diff cup like a broken spider gear. take it apart and have a look.
    I have an RC problem...

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier ausprime's Avatar
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    Open the diff cup, and you will most probably find some broken spider gears.
    Make sure you shim the next diff you get for it.
    My RC Cycle:
    Build it, Drive it, Brake it.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    Something inside the diff is broken. More than likely it's inside the diff cup like a broken spider gear. take it apart and have a look.
    Quote Originally Posted by ausprime View Post
    Open the diff cup, and you will most probably find some broken spider gears.
    Make sure you shim the next diff you get for it.
    As for shims, I have them coming. Should get here today. However, I did replace it when it first happened. I opened up the one I replaced and did not see anything broken. I bought this kit used and this guy had everything jacked up. I think he was using drywall screws in part of it. Had to completely tear the thing apart and replace a lot of plastic. It would not surprise me if he was using completely wrong diffs from a T-Maxx or something.


    Going to try get the tear down done on both diffs tonight and tomorrow and see what I can find.

    More to come.......
    Last edited by Selluminis; 02-28-2015 at 11:11 AM.

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