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  1. #121
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oomp View Post
    Remove the entire slipper assembly and inspect it. Look specifically, and closely, at the backing plate that the pads are attached to. Is it distorted, or bent? If it is, your spur gear is not running in line with, or running true with, the clutch bell. This can cause the spur to be chewed up. At the same time, inspect the Bellville springs, which are the 2 washers that face each other like this (). They may still be spherically bent, but you would not know how flattened out they are unless you compare them to a new set. In a pinch, you can bend them back a little, by using a ball bearing and peening them.

    Please do not tighten the slipper all the way, and then back it off counterclockwise. Please recognize that this crushes the two Bellville springs, which are the 2 washers that face each other like this (). Please understand that, at the point that the Bellville springs are crushed, you are then bending the plate that the slipper pads are attached to. Please comprehend that this shaft, threaded on the end, with a nut on it, is still a fastener.

    By design, you do not tighten fasteners, then back them off, unless specifically instructed to do so by the manufacturers instruction. You will find nowhere, any Traxxas documentation that instructs you to do so with the Revo slipper assembly. You do not tighten the lug nuts on the wheel of your 1:1, car then loosen them a little. When you tighten down the slipper nut, you are applying torque to the fastener. The reason you do not then loosen it is, because you are releasing the pressure (torque) that you applied. You basically released the surface tension that was holding the assembly in place, and the fastener will want to continue with it's rotation(as if it has a memory of its last movement). If you were ever concerned that a fastener was too tight, you back it off, and try again.
    Thank you for your detailed feed back.
    In fact as you stated my actions may have crashed the bellville springs. They look coerrect close to new ones I have.
    I may have wacked the back plate ou of alignment, the small parts that are holding the pads have been eaten away by the bell clutch..

    The reason why I tighten it hard was I got a subsequent amount of slip, and so tighten too hard I guess.

    I am going to put a new slipper assembly and see how it goes....I

    Funny part is I was running for a week without issues untill the bell clutfh C clip and bearing flew out of the truck.
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  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    Funny part is I was running for a week without issues untill the bell clutfh C clip and bearing flew out of the truck.
    when this happend it could have easilly bent the crank shaft in your engine. that gear will NOT simply pull off straight, something has to give to beable to simply fly out while driving. from the story that sounds like a high possibility. youll set the mesh correctly that that one spot of the fly wheel, you can spin the bell gear and the spur gear and be in sync, but as te crank rotates that mesh changes because its not 100% true any longer and chews the spur while driving. this would be a issue most people would be chasing for a long time before they even thought about the cranksahft.
    Last edited by mxaustin; 08-14-2015 at 09:15 AM.
    2.5r Pede, 2-speed O.S.21tm rusty , 3.3T-maxx

  3. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by mxaustin View Post
    when this happend it could have easilly bent the crank shaft in your engine. that gear will NOT simply pull off straight, something has to give to beable to simply fly out while driving. from the story that sounds like a high possibility. youll set the mesh correctly that that one spot of the fly wheel, you can spin the bell gear and the spur gear and be in sync, but as te crank rotates that mesh changes because its not 100% true any longer and chews the spur while driving. this would be a issue most people would be chasing for a long time before they even thought about the cranksahft.
    Very true. I am going to re check everything. This is a new crank shaft but at the same time I should have not taken it for granted that the bearings in the block were good.

    I have also procastinated but should have put a new chassis in right away since I have two new ones. The roller chassis may have been comprimised before I tot it and I have been trough two trans; two slipper back plates and third spur....

    But as oomp stated I probably or royaly flatenned my cone washers .
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  4. #124
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    Man so I did another test today, and I think it is the integy clutch shoes and springs that I had put in.

    I tried the slipper in three different settings that never failed me when I had the stock clutch pads and spring.
    All three spurs stripped on the first run.....WOT, but its true I am also going to change to the new chassis as this one had given me sm headaches since day one, every now and then I would loose a spur, twice cahnged my clutch pad and spring......

    Good thing today is I got the robinsons wide ratio transmission gear all in, very happy with the set up and easier then I thought to install...
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  5. #125
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    Yikes I am in the middle of taking the engine from the truck and notice that the crank shaft is visibly bent...form the inital look it looks like probably the bearings in the block are shot......

    This is probably and likely the reason why I keep on loosing spurs like it as out of fashion as maxaustin stated out.

    In the middle of changing the chassis and also one of the stainless screws strippd on me; man my dremel set is not at hom...oh well.
    Also in the middle of building up my BB, surely but slowly.
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  6. #126
    RC Qualifier NoobPlayer03's Avatar
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    I love the sound of nitro... Only if it was quiet enough for a neighborhood :P
    Aww, SNAP. You crashed into the curb at 100mph.

  7. #127
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    how do i make an electric stampede into a nitro stampede

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbot44 View Post
    how do i make an electric stampede into a nitro stampede
    I would just save up and buy a Nitro stampede or look on ebay for some deals. Not to come off harsh but the Nitro stampede has an aluminum chassis for more strength and most importantly to reduce heat.

    The chassis on an electric stampede is plastic and I don't imagine it could handle the heat of a nitro engine.

  9. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbot44 View Post
    how do i make an electric stampede into a nitro stampede
    Why would you want to do that?

    It may be cheaper to get a nitro stampede roller and then do the upgrades on it.

    If you want to really do it then you will need to get the metal chassis for the pede, then change all the other parts over, get the exhaust and fuel tank and engine as well as ez start or pull start, which will cost way more then getting a roller, and upgrading it to what you want.
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  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbot44 View Post
    how do i make an electric stampede into a nitro stampede
    you can buy a nitro pede roller for like 20-40$$... theres no reason to buy a elec stamede then CONVERT to nitro. youll have more money in converting it over and much more headache, changing the brakes over to mecanical, mounting the engine and all kinds of crazyness.
    2.5r Pede, 2-speed O.S.21tm rusty , 3.3T-maxx

  11. #131
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    Ummm I am lost for words...

    So I have changed to my new chassis and I am still stripping spurs, this time no problem at all with the clutch bell pads and pring, the ceramic bearings do wonders but I am going to shim the clutch bell onto the bolt as I have a feeling the slop I am getting from it is causing the spurs to be stripped , royally shaved off...
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  12. #132
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    Glad to hear you've found a solution.
    Just curious about the ceramic bearings. What's the spec on them?

  13. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by blown68ssrs View Post
    Glad to hear you've found a solution.
    Just curious about the ceramic bearings. What's the spec on them?

    I thought my spur problem with will be solved.

    New chassis in, everything tightened properly but I did not even run and the spur got flatenned right away when I put it in WOT; and that happened when set it in different ranges , at flush, paper spacing etc.

    I think I got to buy new motor, chassis plates under the mount, all the ones I have came as spare with all the trucks I got..

    On the WOT , the spur got flatenned right away on the surface, yet I did my paper test etc, did not to mesh to hard either....mmm my revo 3.3 is the only truck I am having problem with the gearing???? not sure why...

    Love the ceramic barings in the clutch, very smooth, even when you pin by hand you can feel the difference. Will re do the engines too and put ceramic bearings.

    I think to eliminate all poibilities, I am going to buy another crank shaft, sleeve n piston and put new bearings.
    Last edited by Jezza; 10-18-2015 at 02:15 PM.
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  14. #134
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    And what great day Oc/32Foutside and I had a great test run

    Finally got my gear mesh right, not sure if it is beacuase I have a robinsons trans now that I had to mesh my gear and pinion without any play at all...before when I had stock I could use the paper method or by feel. Now I had to have it flash with O play and could go a full tank with no problems.

    Had to tune HSN and lsn, richen her up and had no problem....smoke was good, sound was good and not cut off after several WOT;

    Going to put in my RPM true track and carrier an also the front RPM arms......just realised I forgot the front carriers so will order them in next week.

    Looks like I am going to have fun in winter as well.....
    Last edited by Jezza; 11-08-2015 at 11:22 AM.
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  15. #135
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    Looks like I spoke to soon

    Frustrated beyond words....not to sure what is happening. Its the only rig that I ma having gearing problems out of 4 trucks..

    I cannot get the right mess or what ever since I got the robisonsons trans, this is my 6th spur gear in less then 3 trials on teh truck...I even put back the metal gear I had and it ate both the clucth bell gear and the metal spur..

    All te things that have been done

    1. Change to new chassi
    2. Changed bearinsgs and crank shaft
    3. Changed motor plate and engine mount
    4. Changed spur geras, 28t and 36t
    5. Change clutsch bell gear, stock twice), clutch pads are all good and not ovaled out

    Spur gear becomes flat all arround, no matter what different settings I have put, not sure of teh engine moves...as I have even changed the engine mount screws, it does not seem to have moved....

    Bell clucth is tigthened just right, not over and not too loose...not crashed
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  16. #136
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    Sorry to hear that.
    Sounds like you have done all the changes on the engine size. How about the input side of the transmission?
    There are really not much left that would cause that.

  17. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by blown68ssrs View Post
    Sorry to hear that.
    Sounds like you have done all the changes on the engine size. How about the input side of the transmission?
    There are really not much left that would cause that.
    In fact, it started only after I had put this wide ratio transmission.

    Not sure if that should have an effect on it at all, but it ate both plastic and metal gears....that I had tried....

    I am going to the lhs again on thursday and do another trial, in the mean time, I will try and see if the other revo works, got a new crank case, bearings and head for another engine, piston and sleeve still looks good.
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  18. #138
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    I doubt the wide ratio is the root cause. It could be a contributor.
    Alignment, mesh and friction are ur enemies.
    Good luck and keep us posted on ur findings.

  19. #139
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    New body to be painted for the three trucks, erevo , revo and slash 4x4

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]
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  20. #140
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    Wow finally my revos are working.

    After a week of re-cleaning the whole carburater of the 0.19 dynamite engine, I got her dialed pretty well, the hsn and lsn setting were off their recommendatiion at 2 and 2, I got 3.75 hsn and 3 lsn, sounds ggreat, good colour smoke, truck does not move on by itself...at 2 and 2 it runs off.....very high pitch engine noise too. Man this engine has a lot of torque.

    I also managed to remove all the bearings of the 3 x 3.3 engines, do some of you guys re-use used bearings.

    Anyway I re-cleaned the whole carburater too, put in the new block and new bearings, stayed with traxxas steel bearings, they are pretty good. Break her in slowly then once I get the rear bulkheads for the other roller,(shreded two bulks when putting up the lst2 diff mod for my erebe), I will run the two revos side by side , one with a 3.3 and the other with a dynamite 0.19.

    Very happy with the robinsons transmision , spur and bellclutch combo (16t), managed to mount the engines properly so there is no more movement and shredding of spur gears.

    Spring is arround the corner , cannot wait to get out there and have fun wih all the trucks.

    So two revos are running, one erebe and another revo to be transformed to brushless, got the techno mount of a forum membre, going to put in the extra xl2 I have with a 2200 motor and run 4s until I have also changed the diffs to lst 2.
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  21. #141
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    I don't reuse my engine bearings. When I take them out it is because I have a replacement.
    The Super Derecho

  22. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    I don't reuse my engine bearings. When I take them out it is because I have a replacement.
    Thanks alot, I really like the 3.3 so far, such that I will power up the two 2.5 I have trough traxxas and keep them as spares.
    The last engine I need to clean up is now my ofna 26 then ty and mount it some how and test it out.....going to order a closed backplate as now my revo ofna box starter is also ready......nice peice of machine....
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